Mopar1973Man

Halloween is tonight... Oh my...

Like last one I got from NAPA was a 4 Seasons radiator which is a good quality.

Sounds like you got a fairly low mileage engine yet. 238k miles to the moon, 476k miles to the moon and back... I'm at 436k just another 40k miles and I've gone to the moon and back. Common oil leak spots Vacuum pump seals Front crank seal Gear case either front cover or case to block gasket Tappet cover gasket Rear main seal All these leaks are fairly simple to deal with. Shouldn't these engine are good for 1 MILLION MILES. Your engine is low in the mileage game. I'm at 436k miles and making roughly 500 HP. Best yet broke my own high mark and topped out at 28.04 MPG. (263 miles / 9.379 gallons = 28.04 MPG) Quadzilla Adrenaline (My Eco Tune) +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x0.010) popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid turbo 4" Exhaust straight piped AirDog 165 GPH fuel pump Stock SO VP44

Rule of thumb... For every 1 pound of rotational mass removed is like 8 pounds off the frame.

The problem is as you use a leveling kit you are altering two things. Number one the caster will turn more positive, this some thing can be adjusted on stock control arm and sometimes you need adjustable control arms to get the caster angle correct. Caster is what make the steering to self center. Then the second thing as the axle is swung downwards from the lift kit then the OE track bar is fixed length so now the axle is pulled toward the passenger side some and fouls the thrust angle which will no longer be straight. To correct this you would need a adjustable track bar. I've got this same problem on my 2006 Dodge Ram and plan on pulling the 2 inch lift kit out next to get the alignment fixed on that truck. I've already returned back to 265/70 R17 wheels and tires.

I've got my drill bit and tap ziptied together for doing the EGT probes. That's the other thing I learned I know AH64ID was saying my original idea of having the probe at the top in the fill plug wasn't accurate but when I opened the fill plug and reached in with a long probe digital thermometer I found it the most heat near the gears. So this why coolers appear to be cooling because the sensor is the farthest away from the heat source and being the FASS cooler head will cool rapidly it will show much cooler vs near the gears. Kind of like measure bath tub water at the far end of the tub it will be much cooler too. Typically I'm 160F or less for trans temps through the year. The only time I see high trans temps is slow travel up grades or down grades. There is not enough wind to cool. The other help is heat shield the exhaust pipe and that could drop 20 to 30 degrees not having the exhaust heat radiating towards the passenger side of the transmission.

Call me I just got done helping another gent tweak my economy tune. His case hes following my design but had a Alison Trans so it adding a bit of weirdness being the final ratio is quite a bit taller. I used the trans temp sensor for the engine oil for tuning reasons. I've got a standalone gauge for my manual trans. The only problem with FASS coolers the sensor placement make it seem cooler but the actual gear temp is higher. Being the sensor is so far away from the gears. With mine in the driver side PTO cover and near the PTO gear it much more accurate temp.

Got a call to his phone but no answer and left a quick message. I should hear back sometime.

Like myself I used all NAPA parts no issues. Tie rod, track bar and drag link. I used cheap ball joints off of RockAuto. Biggest thing that makes these parts last is not running oversized tires and/or lift kits.

No. Being ive got more pounds per square inch so it push down to the asphalt quite well. The dually and wide tire truck tend to spin easy because of flotation. They have less pounds per square inch of tire face. Another secret I up shift (manual) early keeping the torque low where a auto wants to run higher RPMs making it easier to spin. Kind of like walking into deep snow your foot will go to the bottom, now throw on snowshoes your spreading your weight allowing you to walk on top of the snow. Dually and wide tires are like running snowshoes and floating on top.

I would suggest for timing... 13, 17.5, 22, and 26.5 - this is good for manual trans. Fuel wise build a default ramp within the 0 to 5 PSI that is smoke free. Then a range of 100% stock this should be your normal driving range. Then ramp up you tail to 150%

1989 to 2002 is power steering fluid. This is the old school sagnaw steering box. 2003 and up is ATF+4 fluid being its a Ford steering box and hydrobooster. I've been using NAPA power steering fluid. (Non-synthetic). Change fluid every 30k. Nothing against Blue Top or Ryan but yeah I've had a few leaks that he's handled. Once on the output seal and once on the input seal. As for box performance it's nice and tight and steers better than stock OEM. Again I've got no leveling kits, undersized tires (245/75 R16). So front end steering and suspension has been stellar. Being I'm setup this way I can run a quick ratio. https://bluetopsteeringgears-com.3dcartstores.com/2869-4-94-02-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-3500-2X4-4X4-181-_p_39.html

I do all the P/S pump replacement from under the truck. I don't even mess with any air plumbing not required to remove any. I'm using Blue Top Steering quick ratio box and a NAPA power steering pump. There is a requirement for quick ratio. You must use 31 inch tire or smaller. Larger tire place too much stress on a quick ratio box. If you going larger on tires use a standard ratio steering box.

Little Red had the 215/85 R16s and did really good in a foot of snow. Even gave small boost in MPG being they were slightly lighter and also a 30 inch tire. Even on a V8 5.9L gasser it works really good.

Exactly the right way to do it. Work with a copy of the tune to make things better. But you biggest problem with final gear in a auto is 0.68 vs my manual 0.75. Then your 35s are making it run too low in RPM at 65. Closer you get to 2k RPMs at 60 to 70 MPH now a lot of the EGTs will drop away. Once you get your test tires on even my original tune will work much better.

I'll have to give the old boy a call some time today and check on him.

There is a difference in my design I built for the least amount of drag, least amount of rolling resistance, and least amount or rotational mass. I don't care about the cool factor of wide heavy tires and lift kits. It is more cool when I hammer down and out run most lifted and oversized tire trucks. Then having cruise EGTs at 500 to 550F even better Then getting 350 to 425 miles at a half tank is super cool when fuel is 4.209 in McCall right now and Riggins is 3.999 a gallon. So my cool factor is way better than most. Like yesterday I opened up the beast and no time flat I was heading past 100 MPH. She is quick even running level 2 on the Quadzilla. I can hold my foot to the floor and never pass 1,200F EGTs. This applies to levels 2 and 3. Wiretap well you going to pass 1,200F.

There is more to it even rotational mass. Yeah you might call them pizza cutters but less rotational mass is easier to accelerate. Most oversized tires are aggressive tread patterns which have the highest rolling resistance compared to A/T tire like I'm running. I'm setup to be right in the middle of my torque curve at 65 MPH which produces the least amount of heat and fuel requirement. Truthful I'm looking for a wider 30 inch tire so I can keep my required height but get a bit of width for summer use but run the narrow for winter time.

Not a wonderful idea. I just squeezed the connectors and pushed the fuse back in.

Still running just a 5 amp fuse in the PCM protection fuse. Never blown that fuse yet but I've managed to shake it out of the clip twice.

Lets just say a good MAP sensor will be close to $100. Cheap china knock offs will be much much cheaper.

I've installed Bilsteins on a few customers truck to me it just feels too stiff and jarring. I've ran Rancho's on my truck previously and they last a super long time and were very comfortable ride.

Just like high pop pressure you need to add timing being its late. Hot rod VP44 or a dragon flow will have added timing so you'll need to retard the timing some. Automatics trans can start out higher in timing vs a manual transmission will need a deep retard to launch.

Chirping typically is the belt grooves are worn out. I typically get about 50k to 60k miles then the belt starts to chirping. I just replace the belt and the noise is gone. Even the green belt by NAPA doesn't go much farther either it still about a 50k to 60k belt yet.

Best to have stand alone gauges that don't rely totally on the stock sensors. Being above about 25 PSI on my truck it starts to vary. By the time you hit 50 PSI on a boost gauge vs 69 PSI shown by the Quadzilla. That's a +19 PSI error. The stock MAP sensor is only good to about 25 PSI and then the error starts to show.