Mopar1973Man

100 degree weather is normal for the summer around last half of August not starting in June. Don't get me wrong I've seen several summers in the 115 to 117 realm. Again maybe a week tops. River flows are very low. Even my creek is low on water. I'm watering for as long as I can.

4.10 gears are the ticket for 35 to 37 inch tires.

After lunch I'm digging in for the afternoon.

I been working on The Beast to get it running once again. So far every time I offer to take Eileen anywhere for dinner the truck stopped charging. No joke. Then come back the next day fire it up and runs and charges fine. I drove up the highway to to friends places to show off the truck a bit and give aid with projects. Then Sunday night tried a repeat. Eileen comes to jump in and just as I leave the driveway the check gauges pops back on and charging stopped again. I did run the codes off the odometer really quick last night. P1682 and P1389 if I remember correctly. P1682 is low charging voltage P1389 is a ASD relay no power seen from PCM. (Bad ASD relay?)

Just cheap Walmart seat covers. Pull the seat trim off. Unbolt the seat belt and grab handle on the back. Slip the seat cover on and get in position. Then slit the fabric right in the slot of the seat belt. Now slip the fabric behind the plastic and tuck in. Pull the seat belt out the hole and reinstall everything takes about 20 minutes.

Just walked out and shot the photo.

Like myself I've not seen any 2020 or newer trucks yet. So, I didn't know there was a spec change. Common out here is 1st Gens, 2nd Gens, some 3rd gens, very few 4th gens...

Well with last night run and the alternator not working I first plugged in the OBDII reader and check for codes there was a whole rash of sensor codes, communication and other odd ball codes. Most likely when the head was off I had ignition on a few times. Now I reset all the codes and now the alternator is firing up and working. Ok weird but I'm going to keep testing locally. I've got the truck cleaned up with the seat covers and nice to drive once again.

Not a easy task of pulling a dash but not impossible either. Here is the power distribution map...

Not currently here... If I had a customer vehicle in the yard I would do it in a heart beat but today I've got a Toyota in the yard. Sorry...

Take a test light and run though all the fuse between the PDC and the fuse panel in the cab. If you probe a ground wire and see light comes on the ground is BAD!

Now I got to revisit the alternator on the Beast. I gor @Wet Vette to help me clean the truck. Then ran to town for chicken for dinner. We packed up some more stuff like a blanket. Made it to Smokey Boulder Road but the alternator quit charging. Double checked the field, circuit breaker, and protection fuse. I turned around and had dinner in the yard. Now the next thing is verify the field leads and voltage. If I got to I could bench test this alternator. Post more tomorrow...

Just working on The Beast. Got the steering box adjusted good. Fixing my fuse for the alternator. New seat covers and even washed The Beast off. Had to have a few tools so Thor got in on the photo.

I still think it was injectors being it won't start or run. It was sent back to the dealer and traded back in.

That's about the only solution. Add it to the price of the truck.

More to add on this... I found the ultimate cause of all this. (Be gentle ) So my exhaust brake switch is on the stick. The previous owner added a aluminum angle metal to mount the switch. Sad part is the terminals on the wire are not insulated. So when the switch loosen up a bit it will swing over and touch the nut. Now it blows the fuse under the dash. It happened a few times and I thought I wonder if the previous owner used the right fuse? I used one bigger 10A fuse. Well the circuit that the exhaust is wired into is only a 7.5A supply so it blew that fuse and then prevent starting. After I replaced the fuse in the TIPM and both systems started working. So I need to fix the exhaust brake switch, install a 5A fuse again for that circuit and then the 7.5A in the TIPM. Then everything will be well in the world again.

Here we go again. I finally starting to get water on the yard and @Wet Vettecalls me to the bedroom. We are looking at the window and see the filter trap wiggling. I head out side and look the filter is plugging up with debris from up top. No biggy. I open the purge valve and it cleans up fast. Still watching close and seeing air being sucked in. Dang! I waited till after dinner and hauled up the mountain to my dam to just check and the water level was barely reaching the pipe. I pull the boards and clear the dam quickly. Pick up stones and debris and re-lay in the boards and seal them with moss. Nearly water tight now. Then head up the road some more to the upper diversion. Get off the ATV and the weeds are shoulder high on me. Tough to hunt for the trail buried in 5 foot of weed. knowing where the creek was I kept pushing. Finally find the creek and hiked up a bit farther to the diversion. My pipe has a spike in the middle of it and just my luck the pipe had a stone just about perfect size to plug it. Cleaned that up and gain some good flow. Packed up and hike back to the ATV. Stopped by the neighbor house to let them know water changes. I found a place near me that sells the sediment filters so I'm going to try calling the company Monday. I got back home and the sprinklers have gained about another 20 feet of radius. Now we are getting the water on the lawn and yard. As for my creek the water is low and it way early for low flows like this typically its mid to late August before low water happens. The river is about 500 CFM lower than normal too.

Rust will be for sure in the block. Like the last time I had the head off the coolant jacket is just surface rust and meaningless. Nothing to do just leave it alone. Now if your flushing and seeing large flakes of rust you might have to discuss this with a radiator shop on different products or possibly have a shop capable of dealing with heavy rust. Scale that builds in the radiator is a sign of wasted coolant. Coolant main purpose is to correct the pH balance in the system. As the additive package is consumed now you start eating metals in the block, gaskets, etc anything that touching the corrosive coolant. This might be either direction acidic or basic. Now the oxides of metals cool at the core tubes in the radiator and deposit themselves to the metal tubes. I don't have ANY scale in my radiator even my factory radiator is perfect yet but a blown tank seal. There are chemicals that can eat at those materials but the problem is how strong of a chemical, how long to leave it soaking, etc. Again a professional radiator shop would know more. Personal I've never had any issues because I typically flush the coolant system by about 70k to 80k miles. If there is ANY color change of the coolant it already too late! A side thing I love to do. I'll get a client that needs a radiator flush and I'll start draining the coolant they always say "See it still looks good!" I just smile and stay silent. As it comes to the last gallon and coolant start to change to rusty color I now speak up and say"Nope. The rust just proves the additive package was gone". Then typically I look in the tanks of the radiator and you'll find starts of scale blooms. The owner is now speechless and like the last one said it was factory coolant and nothing ever been added. Just because its factory coolant doesn't mean the additives will last forever. Another side note. I've been doing my own testing. Now I've been doing my coolant system flushes with creek water or well water. Never used any distilled water in 431k miles. The block is still clean inside, light surface rust that is all. ZERO scale blooms in the radiator. Both waters I use is very clean and clear and drinkable. Very low mineral content. Water pump... Hmmm... I'm still running factory OEM water pump. I've never changed a water pump yet on my truck. Again I keep good coolant in the system so there is lubricant package for that too. Again wasted coolant will no longer be able to keep water pumps lubed so the shaft seal fails and now you see the weep hole bleeding coolant.

They should be all popped together to be matching in flow rate, and pressures. What good is to have one cylinder flowing more fuel and the other cylinder could be lower amount or higher volume yet? This is one reason I do not suggest Bosch stock or Bosch RV275's. Now all injector shop will start out at a +50 HP injector. Now you able to flow match and set pop pressure. Now I will not suggest adding extra pop pressure till your up in the +100 HP or higher. There is no real gain for small injectors being popped higher pressure. Give you an idea typically I see stock injectors that are newish idle with about 6-7% engine load. My DAP 150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) when I fired up and was watching the Quadzilla it idles at about 13% engine load. This gives me an angle of longevity because once an injector set finally reaches 1% or 2% for engine load at idle they are basically done and wore out. Why the change in engine load? Ok that's easy when the injector is new like what I've got set at 320 bar the ECM calls for more throttle 13% just to make it idle because of the high pop pressure. Now as the injectors wear and the pop pressure falls now the engine load will get down to 6% to 7% like stock injectors might see. As it continues to wear out the pop pressure falls below 290 bar the engine load will drop to 0%. Now you see idle speeds rising above 800 RPM which the ECM is programmed too. ECM can't cut any more fuel because there is nothing left to cut. Being the injector is opening easy and early the idle speed will rise. When I finally gave up on my factory stock injectors at 150k miles the idle speed was 875 RPM and engine load was 0%. Now this is why I say to replace injectors between 100k to 150k miles because most injectors are well below 290 bar for sure by that time! My old +75 HP injectors I got from Vulcan Performance they falled at 75k miles and they started life at 305 bar. So it didn't take long for those to get below 290 bar and idle again was rising above 800 RPM and the engine load floating 2% to 0%...

Video is a must watch... Still in all all this talk of Global Warming or Climate change is just a democRATS scare.

I'm sure there isn't any animal that can out run a bullet. Dead or alive... Then there is proof of the 3 legged chicken. Next time I plan to head towards Lewiston Idaho. I'll call ahead and get one.

I'm in line to getting a new dash in my truck its starting to crack badly and tough to keep up with super glue.

Only find those in North Carolina... @dripley most likely has a private farm out there somewhere... Most likely takes them out in the "Chicken Caddie" for rides at night. Yeah its been a real task to keeping water flowing here this year. More down time than up time. I've got to find a new sand or sediment filter for my 1 inch supply line yet. I've only band-aid the problem for now. I found one in Tractor Supply I might just order it and get it coming. Funny part I bought the filter last time in Lewiston ID at Home Depot and they no longer carry it or the filter cartridge. Most of the fruit trees have been pruned pretty hard last spring so most of the production right now is slow. The cherry trees produced cherries but with the heat and lack of water they were small and dried out quickly on the tree. I'm getting water on the black berries which are now popping up and looking good gotta keep some fruit around here.

I'm starting to hear on the local radio that McCall ID is calling for water conservation. Giving guides on watering at night, using hose timers, etc. For myself its been a bad year just trying to keep water going. The loggers that log out behind us happened to damage two pots in the water line. Between the neighbor and myself we managed to get water going. Shortly after that fix I ended up having a filter problem down hill at my place. Mud and needles washed down and plugged the sediment filter. Clean the cup out and filter and now noticed the sand wore the bottom of the filter cup out. so thin it was leaking water out at 120 PSI through small cracks in the cup. I happen to have a tube of epoxy and started mixing up batches of epoxy filling the wore groove in the cup. 15 minute set up time. Managed to just get water back up. Now my yard is super dry. I lost all the cherries (fruit not the trees) being extreme heat and lack of water. Now got 2 good hoses and going to head to town soon and pick up hose mending supplies and repair my hoses and get the place watered. Weather wise its been floating right at 100 degrees here day in and day out. We maxed out at 108*F here for one day. I've seen over 118*F in Riggins, ID and Lucile ID just out working job. Rivers are all down on flow and even rafting companies are wondering how much lower the river might get. Here is the river acros the road from me. The triangles are the average flow.

So does carburetor cleaner, brake cleaner, acetone, MEK, you name it. It will dry your skin and nails out. One of the leading causes of cracked nails and super dry skin.