Mopar1973Man

I've seen a few of the older bodies back to life like this with a Cummins engine. I use to see a guy down in Weiser ID every morning for breakfast with his Cummins power oldie! He did his on the 6-BT p-pump engine but still in all its very cool to see.

Mineral Spirits will remove most of the heavy oils. Then the brake clean will remove the last of the oily residue and dry quickly and be ready for silicone and will now bond with the metals. Brake clean is about the only solvent that will dry without leaving any oil residue.

Right out of the Dodge FSM book... So if you look stock is 310 bar (4,500 PSI). Then the lower limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) then the upper limit 327 bar (4,750 PSI). Little secret I did on my current injectors. I've got 150 HP DAP injectors popped to 320 bar (4641 PSI). This is something you can do with custom built injectors (but no Bosch stock or Bosch RV275's) The higher pop pressure does limit the flow a bit but the spray is much finer and economy is good to fair depending how you drive. Just remember pop pressure below 290 is most likely a total failure. I did the high pop pressure for longevity being all the past injectors only lasted mere 70k to barely 100k and started to either misfire or smoke excessive. You have to remember as pop pressure goes down the timing advances for the firing event. With my 320 bar injectors the timing is retarded but since I'm running a Quadzilla I can add those couple degrees back to the injector and get it back on time. One last thing to mention its possible to lose about 10 bar of pop pressure just in the break in period of the injector. Just something to consider...

I'm starting a general all around thread about trucks and summer heat. I know there is lots of you out there doing searching about overheating, high EGT's and other heat issues like transmission. The biggest thing to remember anything thing that is creating heat is cause by some sort of load. Engine Cooling System Now how long has it been since you flushed out your cooling system? Don't buy into those coolants that claim 100k to 150k miles before failing. I would say about every 3 years tops should be flushed. Then about 70k to 80k miles in miles. Completely flush the block out with garden hose till there is no solid material or coolant color running out. Make sure to have the truck idling as well this will make sure the heater core is flushed out too. Flushing coolant and then refilling with fresh coolant reset the additive packages within the coolant. There is corrosion and lube package that get depleted. One of the few reasons I've not had any cooling problems or water pump issues. For those worried about thermostats NAPA I've been using for YEARS now and never had a bad thermostat. Transmissions (Manual / Auto both) I've seen a few coming to me with transmission temps getting above 200*F. Like a friend lives near me has Chevy Duramax shift issues and higher than normal temps. He did a full pan dump and change the internal filter and all this issues went a away. Make sure you changing out your transmission fluid before the summer and installing a good filter. Clean all the coolers on the front of the radiator. Manuals for us the biggest thing to help in reduction of transmission heat is just placing a heat shield between the transmission and the exhaust pipe. This will reduce the amount of radiant heat from the pipe adding heat to the transmission. You can do this for both auto's or manuals. EGT's This one could be other issues. Oversized tires, improper final ratio to the ground, excessively big injectors without enough boost to cover the fuel. Excessive weight on the truck and/or being towed. Don't be racing the truck up grade with heavy load take a minute and slow down and grab a gear lower. Climb the gear at a slower speed. Possibly with tuners improper timing for said load could also produce high EGT's. Like Edge product does not give a control for timing and typically stacking timing on top of the ECM stock timing typically this is a bit too high for towing applications. Tires and Final Ratio I know there is alot of people that like the look of oversize tire and lift kits. Just remember the higher you stand in the wind the more drag comes with that lift. Just remember the drag value is based on a square foot measurement from the ground to the top of the truck and the full width. Now as for tires remember 3.55 gearing for most of the 2nd gens. Now add larger tires to that axle and your pushing that final number down so from 3.55 it will head towards 3.00:1 like 37 inch tire will do. Anything below about 3.40 it adds a lot of heat ot the engine and EGT's attempting to roll those big tire. Correct ratio makes a huge difference. Optimal ratio is 3.55 to 3.73 final to the ground after tires have been figured in.

Warm engine with low pop pressure injectors can product a misfire or stumble. I know he changed injectors. I've seen injectors with low pop pressure do weird things. The funny part was the set I had this problem with was RV275. Only different was mine I had test the first time and they were barely 300 bar. I cleaned them up internally and ran fine for about a year. Then failed again with stumbling and misfire. I would look at having those injectors tested. If a injector is stuck open it would explain the fuel mixing in the oil. Also bad injectors can wash out the rings too. Hence whay I dropped the RV275 and when to +50 HP and got them pop tested and flow matched. Can't do that on Bosch stock or Bosch RV275. Those are just 6 random injectors picked off the shelf.

@Silverwolf2691is correct. The Fog Light style switch the knob pulls out in the parking lamp position or head light position. I skipped all that junk setup because you can only have fog lamps in LOW beam only. Hi beams the fog light are cancelled. My original setup used 2 relay and I had four 100w aircraft landing lights below the bumper. Two bulbs were lo beams and the other two bulbs were hi beam so the second relay got it sense from the fog lamp relay. The turn on relay got sense from the trailer relay. This setup needed a 20 Amp fuse to power this setup. Current setup still comes on with the parking lamps. Single toggle to turn them off. But I'm running 18w PIAA LEDs Driving Lights. Way brighter than my Morimoto HIDs and on in both hi and lo beam modes both. I'm only using a 5A fuse on this. I draw way less current for lighting. I had way more light than most here. There is nothing about old school halogen bulbs that hold up to any LED or HID lighting. Again the factory fog lamp only work on low beams. Living out here in the forest of Idaho you need lots of light. Not just lo beam with fog lights. Then for the daytime running I swapped out the turn signal bulb in front for switchback bulbs. With the parking lights on the bulbs light up white. But turn on a turn signal they turn amber and flash. When cancelled they return to white again. Shown in the parking lamp mode and camera shutter speed was enhanced to show the bulb clearly. With my Morimoto D2S HIDs I can cast light out both sides of the highway at least 20 to 50 feet. Then vertically I've seen tops of trees that are 50 to 70 feet tall. Now the PIAAs give a good patch of light out ahead of the truck to see debris in the road or even animal working there way to road edge. This truck has right at $1,000.00 worth of lighting... Again there isn't much out there that can beat this.... Selected D2S lens which have much wider path than the H1 Minis. https://retroshop.us/collections/custom-lights/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights Selected driving lights because the cast length is longer than fogs. https://www.piaa.com/store/p/187-LP530-3-5-LED-Driving-Light-Kit.aspx

Yup. I've got a similar problem mine is leaking on the back side a bit near the cam sensor I've already attempted to tighten as much as I could with the gear case cover off.

If you wanna fix it correctly you'll need the gear case gasket. Then you would remove everything in front. Radiator, intercooler, etc. Now you would have to make a set of wooden dowels to pull the tappets up. Then pull the cam out and then the gear case comes off. Now you can re-seal the gear case properly.

I would use grey RTV to attempt to seal that.

Just today I got a buddy I work with make a selling offer on his 2nd Gen 24V for 28,000. Twin turbo, edge tuner, I think he's running 150 HP injectors. 2 inch leveling kit and 35 inch tires.

Taught you well being you just told my secret.

Yeah I know... really thin...

Correct. You must place the head then install the studs. The longer studs go on the exhaust side of the head. There is one that won't fit between the cowl and the head. I use a floor jack and lift the passenger side of the cab (not the frame) it will lift the body of the rubber mounts to gain that 1/4 inch needed to slip in the stud.

Back to running. I pulled the clutch safety switch. Jumped it. Nothing. Then grabbed the test light and nothing. I went out to the fuse block (TIPM). Started testing fuses and found one blown. Changed the fuse. With the clutch jumped it started. Now the hard part of putting clutch safety switch back. Fought with the plastic pin to line up the clutch shaft and the pedal to push it back through. It started. Should of check fuses first...

Getting itchy to see this truck completed... But you can't rush good artwork!

Wow. Learning something new. Kind of like some of the new cars I'm seeing with 0w-16 oil being used.

The pop off counter is what I'm looking at. Something told the ECM that rail pressure was too high and popped off 29 times to bring it back down. Then it acted like the valve stuck open long than needed which now the ECM records that fact the rail pressure is too low now for 43 times. Just think things out a bit... If it was a derated for emmisions you should not see the high pressure pop off. Still in all the ECM should not derate so deep that the rail pressure drops out to trip the low pressure message. Like with the 2006 I've got when the waste gate solenoid had broke wire it derated but just enough that boost was only 20 to 25 PSI roughly. After fixing the wires it picked back up to normal power but never let the rail pressure drop complete out to trip errors. Possibly is the tune making the high pressure pop off message?

More you retard timing the better it will build boost. Too many people are too concerned with getting enough advancement. This why I suggest starting 1,500 RPM band at 13 degrees. Then if you have enough timing reduct it should be able to pull down to 10 to 11 degree on a heavy throttle or WOT. Once boost build it step back into advancement and continue to build power. With 15 degree in the 1,500 RPM band you might notice with cruise timing running and light throttle it might buck at lower speeds 30 to 40 MPH. The 13 degree at 1,500 RPM will reduce that chance of bucking as well.

Make sure to do it right... If not set right it will be on the wrong mode of IVS (Idle Validation Switch). I highly suggest getting a Timbo's there is NO VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT. It all done by bellcrank angle being there is no electronics in a Timbos APPS. Inside a Timvbos APPS as you can see there is no electronics to foul up the signal. As you can see in the stock APPS it requires electronics to monitor APPS voltage to toggle the IVS switch for the ECM. These are known for issues and electronics failures.

Head gasket job isn't too bad. This is my second time on Beast. About 2 hours to pull the head off. About 4 hours to adjust everything and assemble. First time I need 18 valve guides and new valve seals. Cost $2,000... I had a member drop $200 on my bill! Thank you to that member! Second time was much cheaper. Only $480 bucks for the machine work to resurface flat. 0.006 warp from end to end. Also new valve seals. Head installed with ARP 425 studs.

Personally I just stick to the common 15w-40 but lot of people think they can extend the life on synthetics. Too many hotshots out there running petroleum that make extremely high mileages without any worry.

Sorry gang. It was a server module problem I had misconfigured. Basically it was suppose to see the picture and determine that it needs compression so it converts JPG, etc into a better format and got stuck. Then leaves the photos missing. Refer back to this months newsletter.

Possible... ill be working on it in the morning. I'll post up what I find.

Absolutely.. remove all the other ground mods.

2006 Dodge - Starter issues Just got home for lunch and now going to move the truck to get a job done. There is nothing. No click nothing. All the dash lights up. Being this is controlled by a TIPM I'm not sure at this moment what to look at next?