Mopar1973Man

Not true. When diesel fuel cetane is 45 to 50 cetane it will ignite easy with compression. Now take summer fuel attempt that and you might find a different story. Back when I done my last research of fuel blends they were upping the xylene mixture to increase cetane value. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene Xylene reduces the flash point of the fuel so compression pressure with cold air can still reach ignition point. Hence why most every fuel station up here in the north is all running Winterized #2. More you raise the cetane the lower the BTU's are going to get. Another part why I suggest to never remove the stock filter you gain warm from the manifold for the fuel, then the fuel heater run at any temp below +70*F. Then if you step up to 200*F thermostat you give more warmth (better thermal efficiency) to the cylinder promoting ignition and since the coolant is hotter by 10*F now the manifold will be warmer helping to heat both the fuel and the air. Again way I'm set up my IAT and Fuel Temp are always with +/- 5*F of each other. I use my grill insert to block out the cold wind over the intercooler. Side story I was coming back from Lewiston there was a truck travelling the grade super slow like 45 MPH in a 65MPH waited for my time to pass and when I did I down shifted to 4th too much zeal and would you believe it I stuff the stick in between the shift rails and stuck in 4th gear. So, I ran the tach up to 2,500 RPM holding barely 55 MPH in 4th gear and climb the grade ot the top. By the time I got to the top the coolant was up to 201*F and fan was locking up and I watch both the coolant, IAT and a small fuel temp drop. This example shows that covering the grill allows for unusual issues to be handled. If I was covering the radiator face I would of overheated and been stuck in the middle of the road attempting to repair. Thank Gawd for my set up... I got up top and fix the stick by pulling it up resetting the rails to neutral and drove home.

Hmmm... I remember a punk kid riding in my Dad's 1973 Dodge Charger to the corner store to get fuel on the weekends and remember seeing $0.589 for a gallon of leaded gasoline, yup I was born before the unleaded fuel change came about.

I haven't plugged in the block heater in over 7 years now. This winter I only paused a few times for the first cold start up waiting for the light. Like right now its 32*F outside I would just fire up and leave. Not to hijack... We got some wood but soaking wet and started splitting yesterday while we could with good weather. All of out working to move rounds for @Jthor then @Wet Vette and myself were picking up and loading a truck to move to the covered wood shed. We got a small pile start but more to come today. Between the death of @MoparMom (Feb. 22, 2020) then the start of the COVID-19 lock down. Closure of most forest and access to wood. Then later in the summer release the forest but I got boom with more work than I could handle. I managed to get 1 trailer load of red fir but that is already fully burned up and gone. Takes roughly about 9 to 12 cords every winter. So I've been running the heat pump set for 65*F and letting @Jthoruse the majority of the wood being the other house has no secondary heat like electric or anything. Wood only heat. Back to normal threads...

A short on the green wire of the field to grounds will do exactly that. A grid heater(s) commanded for excessive long time or contacts arced and held excessive. Like with my landlord truck (Russ) his blew the alternator and the charging fuse by using his winch with weak batteries placing nearly 100% of the load on the alternator. Alternator is never suppose to hold the entire load of the vehicle it suppose to hold the loads on the batteries and alternator fills in a balance charge to maintain 13.5 to 14.5 this rule will not change. Now if the batteries do not have the capacity for said electrical load it will force the alternator to make up what the batteries will not hold. Again this comes back to weak batteries and excessive loads. Starting out with my old school halogen lights (45w /65w) and 4 flood lights (100w a bulb) This is one reason why I ditch the four 100w flood light I had below my bumper (400 watts / 14.5 volts = 27.5 Amps DC) then the old stock headlights are 45w lo and 65w hi beam (90w / 14.5 volts = 6.2 Amp DC) this is a total that is a total of front lights excluding markers and tails is already 39.9 Amps DC for my old setup. Upgraded to HID's and LED driving light. Now I've got Morimoto HID's which are 35w a side so that is 70w total. (70 watts / 14.5 volts = 4.8 Amps DC) then changed out the four 100w halogen bulbs for 2 PIAA 530 LED Driving lights which is 18 watts each which is 36 watts for the pair. (36 watts / 14.5 volts = 2.4 Amps DC). Before - Total watts and Amps - 578.5 watts at 14.5 volts DC, drawing 39.9 Amps DC After - Total watts and Amps - 104.4 watts at 14.5 volts DC, drawing 7.2 Amps DC - Extra gain with huge bonus of better light over any halogen bulb. (rated for 4,000 lumens). This is a total of 554% saving compare to the old school system I had. Total savings or power which is 474 watts and 32.7 Amps not used by the alternator in just lighting upgrades. Remember we have a stock alternator rated for 136 Amps. I'm not looking for bigger alternator just better efficient lighting and other electrical items. Just looking at my tail lights most of them are 250mA a bulb again a big saving of power vs. old incandescent bulbs the truck was made with. Just now looking at all my changes I've free up a bunch of the alternator and much less to power. I've even though about pulling the tail light fuse and replacing the 15A with a 2.5 amp which is still over kill. Again seeing the electric saving in being able to swap out a fuse to such a small size. LED and HID light is a best option for reducing electrical load.

Yes. One example using your set up and failure points. So if you voltage drop test both cables (NEG) and there is 0.003 to 0.005 volt drop this means that the voltage to BOTH BATTERIES is with the alternator charging 14.5 volt will net you roughly 14.497 to 14.495 volts to both batteries not even going to notice. Battery temp sensor is only going to change the voltage between 13.2 volts to 14.8 volts period. It is not going to fix a bad battery or cable. The balance of the batteries is based directly on the condition of the cables if there is excessive voltage drop then you will be imbalance between batteries. Like I'm showing if the voltage drop in mere 0.003 to 0.005 volts you not going make zero difference moving the battery temp sensor. As the current flow on the positive cable its shared directly and equally to both batteries. The ONLY way not to be equal charge is... Bad battery with bad cell Bad cable(s) with more than 0.2 volt drop. So if you have a mag-lite flash light do you only replace one of the two AA batteries or do you replace both? Me I replace both. Again if you want to verify a change then use you jumper cables between two point and see if the voltage changes. Say for example the passenger NEG cable was bad and showed a 0.3 volt drop which is a failure. Now take a set of jumper cables and jump between the block and the passenger battery. You should see a +0.3 gain of voltage at the battery. Now that tells me exactly that passenger battery cable is BAD and requires replacement. Adding that parallel cable will ultimately mask this and the cable can fail and now stress the remaining driver side ground which is not and will start to fail from over current. This why I DO NOT suggest this parallel cable mod nor suggest moving the sensor which is not going to change the charging which is still set for between 13,2 in the summer heat to 14.8 in the dead cold winter.

No, it will not make any difference. If all cables are the same then the voltage is the same. Alternator will deliver equal voltage to both batteries. Moving the sensor will not change that out come because if cables have the same voltage the charge is the same. The batteries do make a difference if one has a shorted cell and the other doesn't. Regardless your back to the same problem the battery temp sensor is NOT a protection device but to set the charging voltage that's it. It will not protect a battery... When all the cables are equal then it up to the batteries to charge equally which both batteries will warm up the same. Like in my house battery bank I've got one temp sensor. It will not prevent the far left battery from temp swings again if the battery are all equal the temps are all the same TILL you have a battery or single cell that is shorted now that SINGLE battery or cell will get hot. It not the battery temp sensor job to throttle back because of a bad battery cell. It's up to the owner to replace his BATTERIES not move the sensor to attempt to throttle back for a dead cell. Not a good plan at all.

Back to the wiring... I know W-T has been floating around and keeps telling folks they NEED to parallel both ground and positives. This will not fix the problem. It will not stop a battery from boiling over either. Again if there is a problem with main cables make sure to load test them if there is over 0.2 Volt drop then those cables need REPLACEMENT. I've tested several truck using jumper cables and found ZERO change in parallel ground cables. There is ZERO GAINS. This will not fix a problem with a bad battery cell that is overheating. Again this is due to improper maintenance of the battery and not proper recharged. This is more common with city folks that drive very short distances. You draw out 500 to 700 Amp to start the engine cold than drive barely 5 to 10 miles and shut down then the batteries are still discharged. Again I find more that the OEM main cables are oxided in the jacket, bad terminal that are oxidized, or just plain bad batteries. Like my last Cummins I worked on here, I tested ground cables on had just a mere 0.003 to 0.005 (3 to 5 mVDC) voltage drop. Again with jump cables parallel between ground did NOT change the outcome of the test.

Like finding some members in the high 160's for fuel temp is kind of alarming. I can see why people have issues with VP44 and the PSG frying in southern states with it all be returned to the fuel basket. After being to Arizona in early summer and its starts at 78*F at 5am and the ramps up to over 120*F by midday it really hard to keep anything cool but it even worse for some returning hot fuel to the sender basket and re-pumping back to the VP44 and wonder why the VP44 is failing so often. I'm pretty sure the upper limit before tripping the P0168 code is 195*F. Only seen one member here ever post P0168 code... Even the Quadzilla is set up to trip the fuel temp alarm at 160*F. But I've seen several members reporting 150 to 160F temps... Majority are running returns in the fuel basket. Just remember electronics do not like hot temperatures. No there is no way to put a heat sink on the PSG cover. It won't work being there is a air gap between the cover and module. Not to mention the PSG is heatsinked to the fuel side. So if the fuel is hot its going to heat up the PSG electronics. Of course this shortens the life too. Good return flow from the overflow valve helps but again if the fuel is already hot the return flow is meaningless being it supplied with 150 to 160 degree fuel. As you can see in my photo the circuit board is mounted to the fuel side. There is a air gap on top then the cover plate also has a air gap too. So yes fuel temp is important to cooling the PSG module. Now that goes back to people trying to install fuel coolers and fans to cool the fuel before the VP44. Again separate your return and supply so you not pump back the hot fuel and the fuel temps go down.

Can't for smog controlled states being it will set the CEL and P0380 and P0382... This is why I unhook my grid heaters in April and leave unhooked till October. The power lead is right at the drivers side battery positive. Takes less than 5 seconds to deal with. Most morning I don't even WAIT TO START I just hit the key and go. This winter has been super mild and not really gotten below 32*F for long.

DELETE function is disabled for all members. Member get the hide function. This prevents members getting upset and deleting all their content. Which has happened long ago. Staff have the delete function but it will not delete instantly. It's held in a "virtual trash can" for 30 days before being removed. This is to catch accidental delete of message(s), post(s), thread(s). This why HIDE is used more so. As for performance I've broke the database down to active post in one spot for quick recovery for daily reading. Then post older than 1 year are put in a archive to store the old post. This was a performance booster. As for content... Oh how I know about that being I've had a legal document sent o me from a fuel additive company for the content years ago. Still in all I still stand up for "free speech". I only ask that every one is polite to other members and treat each other like family. As for illegal activities that is another reason I don't delete there is a track record. If I got to produce information because of fraud or another crime then I need that data for legal reasons.

@dripleyseen me a support ticket for lack of "hide" ability. If you don't see it. You happen to be a separate permission.

Absolutely will not... It will not limit the output... Remember I've got this huge 1,000 pound battery system here and it did NOT protect it when 1 cell went bad. Still cost me $4,800 replace all batteries and the only way to fix it is not battery temp sensor but replace the batteries.

Only if the fuel temperature is getting out of control. I would move out of the fuel basket...

Ok. To check the field lead. You need to start the truck and measure the voltage on the blue wire is there +12V? If not the PCM is burned up. Now on the green wire its a "ground" so test the same way using the DVM and it should show -12V or +12V depending on the probe usage. Green side typically will not cause damage but if the blue wire has ZERO volts then the PCM burned up. As for the charge stud. That should pass through a 150A circuit breaker or 150A fuse or even stock is 140A fuse. If the fuse is blown or circuit breaker tripped then reset and see if it repeats. If it does you batteries might not be up to the task or possibly cables. Check both batteries while charging and see if the voltage is EXACTLY the same if not the bridge cable on the radiator is shot possible. Digging a bit deeper if the field lead has power both blue and green working then it could be the armature brushes and slip rings. If there is no power reaching the armature it will never start to charge. You might be better having your alternator bench tested.

I know the feeling...

Exactly... This is why I don't have the gelling issues like others, plus remember the fuel heater is in the circuit yet too so the fuel is warmed supplying and leaving the engine eventually it does warm the tank up. Compared to the FASS 150 that left here with the filter hanging in front of the rear tire and in the damage path of slung snow and other road debris.

Take a pick? I've got an 180F, 190F and 200F thermostats. Why try tune around cold that much I can just jump to the 200F thermostat. Gain the heat for both fuel and coolant that way.

Hopefully not for 20 years if taken care properly. First batch failed at 13 years being I wasn't charging the first batch right and then allowed them to discharge too deep and then a few cell also got ran low on electrolyte. Now I'm check monthly for electrolyte levels, monthly equalize charging, and then shut the city power off and load test them. I should be able to run the hour silent for at least 8 to 12 hours with no external charging (no solar, no hydro, no generator). Already got 11 years on this set of batteries and still powering 24 hours a day and 7 days a week.

Sorry to hear that but that's why I'm such a stickler for the battery stuff when you figure the eight batteries power my house cost $4,800 last time I replace them I really don't want to damage those batteries because even one damage battery I've got to replace all eight battery at a much high price than what I paid for the last batch. Same with the truck I try to stay after it as well but my last batch I've ran them dead 3 times every time a batter drops below about 10.5 to 11.0 it causes damage to the battery and equalizing most likely will not fix.

Just replace the grid heater if the power studs are damaged. Don't mess around with something like that. Grid heater are fairly cheap.

Yes it is... Skid plate needs to be loosen and hang to change the filters. The skid plate is guarding the filter. I can still reach behind the AirDog 150 and check the fluid level in the transfer case. There is much less cold wind blowing on the filters fuel stay warmer. Then I've upgrade since that photo and ran all my fuel line inside the frame to keep the fuel lines shielded from extreme heat and extreme cold.

This is bad... Basically all you done is shorten the life of that new battery to the the level of the old battery you left in the system. Great way to take a 800 CCA battery and reduce it instantly to the same level of the other battery. Hence you ONLY replace batteries in PAIRS. If they only have one then go to another store and buy a pair at the same time.

Contact with the head it will absorb the heat. Lots of people have delete there stock filters and just running the FASS 150. Majority of these local are having gelling and freeze up issues. Thew ones that follow my suggestion and kept the stock filter basket and did the big line kit. Reduces the gelling issues. Then getting the filter and pump assembly moved out of the damage path of the front tires and not hang down in the cold wind now the fuel temps will rise. Remember mine has been hanging behind my transfer case for YEARS and to this day 428k miles later I've never had one gell up or freeze up of fuel even while operating at -30*F to -40*F winter. Since 2006 this AirDog 150 has been hanging in this position till today and never had one issue with cold fuels. Ever! - Never had fuel gel or freeze up.

The only thing that IAT does... Temperature below +80*F is going to add +3 to +4 degrees of extra timing. Warmer air does burn better and easier. I make up for that in my Quadzilla tunes so I don't really care about the IAT temps because I can adjust for my weather as needed. I can just watch the engine load vs. temperatures (coolant, oil and IAT) I make adjustments to handle the changes in weather. Again even this I can adjust my tune for. You can advance timing more and give more pre-heat time for cold fuels. Just adding a few degree give that much longer in the cylinder to heat the fuel, turn to vapor and go BANG on time. Why re-invent the wheel but actually take a stab at tuning properly and over come all the weakness. Yeah super cold fuel doesn't burn well in a cold cylinder with cold air running in. Again since I kept my fuel filter housing and fuel heater its a mere few minutes of warm up rolling down the highway and the IAT and Fuel temp running side by side. This why I'm not even worried about fuel temps being low because the stock fuel filter housing absorbs heat from the cooant passage in the head hence why my IAT and fuel temp are typically the same. Now for those that deleted the fuel filter housing now those people have issues with cold fuel because they delete there fuel heater and being able to absorb heat from the manifold. That 1/2" pipe plug near the IAT is a Coolant passage.

Internally in the heater there is a temp switch. There is no external control. There is a power relay in the PDC. All done inside the fuel filter housing.