Mopar1973Man

Things to think about... W-T ground wire mod really does cut back the amount of AC noise fed back to the ECM and PCM which the PCM will carry that AC noise right to the field and cause it to amplify the noise. Good block and body ground are REQUIRED. If you measure above 0.2 voltage drop from battery negative post to block replace the cable(s). There is zero need to a negative cable jumper you can test by hooking up jumper cables between both negative post and measure the voltage drop with or without the jumper if there is any change change the block and body grounds. If there is no change like my truck where the voltage drop remains 3mV DC with or without a negative jump this means that it does NOTHING and has zero benefit. Actually the block can flow way more current that a jumper cable. Hence why it does nothing. Make sure your alternator is bench tested for AC ripple. Typically a full load test will create a value around 1.0 to 1.2 Volts under full load on a test stand. If the alternator is passing on the test bench it will pass on the truck as well. Grid heaters draw way more than what the alternator can charge at an idle. Don't start your truck and leave idle to warm up at 800 RPM. This is where I typically use either Mopar1973Man high idle or the Quadzilla high idle to up the RPMs to 1,200 this increase the charge rate more, increase air movement around the diodes keeping them cooler. Reduced the stress on the alternator. Bad battery cables are far more common than you think. Voltage drop test is a excellent way to verify cables and terminals for good function. Being you testing under the high loads. "Black" terminal is a lead that is oxidizing, typically a positive post. Engine oil helps reduce the amount of air contact and the acid contact on the terminals. Terminals need to have that fresh lead appearance. Lead oxide is will resist current flow, typically creates warmth to heat at that spot too. Running you hand over terminals careful and wire if you feel heat that cable is failing. Bad rotor brushes in the alternator can create AC noise as well. Some local shops could do the replacement in just like 15 minutes and retest for AC noise. (DuroBuilt, Nampa ID) - Thank @AH64ID Consider reducing total loads on the electrical system. Like I've done HID headlights which are only 35w for both. Driving lights are 18 for both. Previous light was four 100w flood lights and halogen bulbs (45w /65w). LED's are fraction of the electrical load. Look at other stuff like blower motor too if you fan only work on high the bearing are gone and the blower resistor over heated and blew out. Replace both and you'll reduce you electrical loads there. Disconnect the grid heater if you in warm climate and don't require them.

Hence why I still keep the stock filter being most all replacement filters for the stock can are design to be water blocking (Fleetguard). Now the AirDog fuel filter is not water blocking (but the Fleetguard is)

I've got to admit that 7.3L engines are fairly straight forward and easy to work on. The glow plugs are under the vavle cover. As for the injectors you need a Allen wrench and remove the oil deverter. Once removed you can use a 8mm wrench on the bolt toward the intake and 8mm socket on bolt towards the exhaust. Once the two bolts are removed you can use a small pry bar to simply lift the injector out of its hole. Things to take note of Ford OEM injector seals are black and aftermarket seal are like orange a light purple color. This biggest thing is being sure your high pressure oil rail is seal and the fuel rail is sealed to prevent crossing of the two fluids or leaking out into the head area or possibly back into the fuel tank. My project truck is 1995 Ford F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. The number 7 injector I didn't find a way to remove as of yet. Number 7 is the rear most injector on the passenger side. It hits the HVAC case and will not pass... I'm hoping some here could tell me the secret on getting that bugger out. Now Jacob when he get a few extra buck for another set of seals and glow plug we'll move over to the driver side and do the other 4 injectors. We did find number 5 injector was rather carboned over. IMPORTANT! Since Ford injectors have booth the high pressure oil and the fuel rail in the head when you pull any injectors the fuel and oil drains instantly in the cylinder. So to prevent engine damage leave the glow plug out and crank it over. When you do make sure to tell everyone to back off. When I barely spun that engine over the oil shot out of #7 glow plug hole and painted the hood black in one big spurt gun. Afterwards I installed the glow plugs and went to start up mode. Being that there is no line to crack or bleed the air out you can just crank till it starts. It's no different than Cummins when it does start there is air in the fuel and oil rail so it knocks and does sound horrid. After cleaning up tools and taking off for a test run to warm it up. There was a small improvement and smoother running. Being only 3 of 8 were done we are just starting the project. Q: Does anyone know how to get #7 injectors out of the head without doing something stupid like cutting a hole in the HVAC case?

Switch out to rain for me but high country above is going to buried quickly. New Meadows, ID at Smokey Boulder McCall ID top of the Goose creek grade.

If I recall the internal pressure is roughly 60 PSI heading to the distributor to be pumped up again. Also remembeer the VP44 is half the RPM at idle is only 400 RPM's on the pump.

Yes. This was tested at 200:1 ratio and it still pulled 462 HFRR IIRC. Estimated 128:1 ratio is in the high 200s to low 300s HFRR for sure.

Ouch... Like this weekend I've been working all weekend. Like I just learned how to do 7.3L Ford injectors tonight and then got snagged on the #7 injectore rear most against the HVAC box. Never got it out. We'll revisit that injector another day. But the truck runs better with 3 cleaned up inectors and knocked off a good amount of crusty mess on number 5. We only did the passenger bank for now to resolve a weak cylinder issue. Still some miss but not nearly as bad. Soon as Jacob get some extra cash we'll do the driver side together but he get to get dirt this time. Rather nice to have a apprentice that wants to learn. I understand most of you and the long hours like myself I've been starting my morning at 4am most morning and work the website for 4 hours in the morning and then head to work. Get home in the evening and then sit down and check the website again and might work for a few hours dealing with errors or performance issues. Like this morning I was on the phone chewing out the hostring company for selling me a blacklisted IP address. So that little burp today was the IP was changed out and hopefully this IP is clean and the email problem is solved. Tomorrow I'm going back to my other shop and Jacob (Eileens Son) is going to help me do a gear case seal and help stop up some of oil leaking out of my landlords truck. Good way to pay my shop rent is by fixing the landlord truck and make it better. Always a win-win time for me. Heck Saturday in mere 2 hours I changed out his steerinfg column and even changed out his tore up steering wheel and rehooked all the stering wheel stereo controls. Carry on guys... I'll catch you in the morning I'm whipped and tired and need some sleep and get right back in the saddle and do it again.

It some pretty hard steel I know that. Match the flow ot the nozzle flow rate and then the pop pressure as well. I'm sure there is much more to it but most of its how the pop pressure and lift of the pintle in general speak. As for wear I typically would say double filter your fuel. Like myself I've got a 3um filter on my AirDog 150 and then a 7um filter in the stock filter can. Lubricity of the fuel plays the other role which Bosch states <406 HFRR and the common US diesel fuel is ~520 HFRR so increased lubcitiy will improve injector performance.

my bad i wasn't totally wake and still hammer my morning coffee.. sorry my bad...

URGENT - WINTER WEATHER MESSAGE National Weather Service Boise ID 248 AM MST Sun Nov 15 2020 IDZ011-013-016-028-033-ORZ062-151800- /O.CON.KBOI.WW.Y.0012.000000T0000Z-201115T1800Z/ West Central Mountains-Boise Mountains-Western Magic Valley- Camas Prairie-Upper Weiser River-Baker County- 248 AM MST Sun Nov 15 2020 /148 AM PST Sun Nov 15 2020/ ...WINTER WEATHER ADVISORY REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 11 AM MST /10 AM PST/ THIS MORNING... * WHAT...Snow expected. Total snowfall amounts of 1 to 4 inches are forecast at elevations between 3000 and 4500 ft, with 4 to 8 inches from 4500 ft to 6000 ft, and 8 to 14 inches above 6000 ft MSL. * WHERE...Portions of eastern Oregon, west-central Idaho, and southwest-central Idaho. * WHEN...Until 11 AM MST /10 AM PST/ this morning. * IMPACTS...Travel could become very difficult. * ADDITIONAL DETAILS...Breezy conditions will result in areas of blowing snow above around 7000 ft. PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS... Slow down and use caution while traveling. The latest road conditions can be obtained by calling 5 1 1.

Ouch... I've got a snow storm coming soon too.

Requirement. DVM able to measure any AC frequency below 2 volts. Black probe goes to the passenger battery. Then the red probe on the alternator charge post. Engine fully warmed up and batteriescharged up and no loads running. 0.05 AC Volts seems to be the top limit for most.

Never upgraded input shaft. I never broke the input. Still running stock NV4500 input. I broke the main shaft and 5th gear. Hence why I went down in tires to allow it to break free and release the built up torque and spin the tires than hold tight and break stuff more. Yes. It will aid in getting it to hold. Right now your tires are holding back a lot of torque and the weakest point is the clutch so the clutch spin to release the built up torque. So what size are you running? I can calculate the ratio for you and tell you what is needed to correct. Like my old Southbend when I upgraded to +150 HP injectors and figure out the quadzilla tuning now I produce enough power on Level 2 (Stock fuel) to spin on dry pavement. Then I built more power in tuning and spun the clutch. Then upgrade to dual disc Valair. Yeah I produce a lot of power but get nearly all of it to the ground and very little loss in the driveline being my engine oil (<170*F) and trans temp are very low. (<140*F). No I didn't lose anything per se. It was a bad shaft that got a nick in the metal that is ruining my output shaft and was over looked on the build. I knew about it back when it failed the first time but with my daily task of getting @MoparMom to dialysis I just resealed the shaft and told Ryan I would deal with it later. Now later is here winter time and things are slowing down I can send it in for a replacement shaft and new seals. Again I'm using "Quick Ratio" because I'm running smaller tires. Don't install on oversized. I had a very long discussion with Ryan about this.

Not enough coffee. Sorry glow plugs.

Difference... Solenoid spike is true it does make a sudden spike but... That's not the one I worry about it the the constant generation of high AC noise from the alternator as long as the grid heater is running. This is due the high current load on the alternator the load is typically higher than what the alternator can produce at an idle so the diode heat up and AC noise streams forth in to the rest of the truck. I understand that spike too being if I hook up the lighted switch on my exhaust brake it will blow the LED light out in fraction of a second being the spike from the exhaust brake solenoid for the vacuum control is big enough to blow the LED out. But after 423k miles I realize the fraction of a second spike is nothing its the constant generation of the AC from the diodes that is more damaging. If solenoids were the true downfall it would of wipe out way more than Dodge. Ford uses the same solenoids for glow plugs, starter solenoid, etc. Even our Starter is a huge solenoid that pulled the contact plunger into the battery contacts to spin the starter. Like being exposed to a single gun shot (the single BANG) vs. a full automatic just rattling for hours (BANG, BANG, BANG, etc.) the single bang you recover pretty quick but listening to hours of it will most likely ruin your hearing. Just like the ECM and PCM a single shot pulse is nothing it will absorb the single hit. But hours of rattling AC noise will kill any computer. I could pull this sideways a bit. My home inverter is called a Modifed Sine AC inverter. It is not a pure sine wave. It a stepped up and down. Tons of people told me don't use it it will destroy your electronics in your house. Nope not true. The sinewave even though its noisy its clean enough to be used. I'm still running the entire house on this inverter over 25 years. So how much noise is allowed is hard one to place a limit on but cleaner power is always better. But some ripple and noise isn't the end of the world either being like I just showed after 25 year I've never lost an device in my house. Even my PC is older than dirt and needs replacement still using every day and working the site. Little info on my Trace Inverter... http://nooutage.com/tr.htm#:~:text=The Trace series Inverter%2FCharger,in an off-grid application. Take it even farther... I've installed a Harbor Freight 1,200W inverter in my RV. Another case where everyone state don't use on electronics because it will kill it short order with dirty power. It been installed for better than 5 years and used every camping trip and still have the same TV in the RV 5 years later no issues. Charged my cellphones and other devices on that power too. Just food for thought...

What a mess... Wow! Fresh bearing and a lot of clean up I don't see why it wouldn't work. Cleaning is going to be the biggest time sink.

@dripley you've been in construction for years and will always love to build things. Like myself I've been turning wrenches since I was 14 years old. It when I get free time to work at my own pace and the project I want to do are the most fun. Not looking forward to power steering pump but oh well. It the fact I can turn wrenches on my own truck and enjoy my day. Now the twist in all this is Jacob (Eileen's Son) which is highly interested in mechanic work too. So I've got a apprentice to follow me around and willing to turn wrenches for me. This why the injector job on his 7.3L Ford truck. Doing on the low budget method of pull and clean injectors and reseal them. Going to be fun pulling the 7.3L injectors for the first time. Nope never done injectors on a Ford 7.3L yet. At the same time do the grow plugs too. Kind of like that... @dripleyit doesn't matter what your building or what challenges await you it the fact of the challenge that keeps you going. I'll still admit there is some things I've never done before, willing to tell a customer even too. Then go out and find that it wasn't so bad. Still get the job done. So for you I don't think you ever get that out of you after all these years. You'll still want to build or make something better around you in the method you know best. Construction...

Whoa! Before you make another step. What size tires are you running? If your larger than a 31" tire DO NOT do the quick ratio box! Quick ratio box can be used on tires and wheels smaller than 31" inch. If you do install it will cause the box more stress being it too low of a gear ratio to push large tire left and right you need to keep the standard ratio steering box. Again do not opt for "quick ratio steering" unless your stock or smaller. Just the same issue with oversize tires on 3.55 axle gears, making the final ratio too low. Like on my 1996 Dodge I'm running 215's tires (30.6" tires) and could easily upgrade to quick ratio. Being I've reduced to 245's (30.5 Inch) tires I opted for the quick ratio box on my truck. I'm running the Blue Top Steering box. Sad to say I've got a warranty claim on mine and will be pulling it back out for Ryan to look at. At 423k miles I finally blew up my power steering pump. It was a OE pump. Shaft issue and leaking. Ryan is going to take care of it for me. Just mail it back to him. I'm running the Valair dual disc. But here we go with tires. If your tires are large your most likely trapping torque in the driveline which typically creates a slipping clutch problem. You need to look at the tire size and look at the final ratio to the ground. For example I drop from 265's to 245's tires with 3.55 gear creates a final ratio to the ground at 3.69:1. The OPTIMAL final ratio is 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground. So with just going to 285's from 265's will reduce your final ratio to 3.42:1 ratio adding drag and stress to the clutch. I'm at 500 HP now and never slipped a clutch but I do slip tires which is absolutely fine being the excessive torque burns rubber instead of spinning clutches or breaking driveline stuff. I've already managed to break a mainshaft in a NV4500 at the 3rd / 4th gear on 235's tires (31.7" tires) and Edge Comp (Metal fatigue). Then managed to break the teeth off 5th gear with Quadzilla on 245's (30.5" tires) at 80 MPH on the interstate. (Metal fatigue)

How about yesterday. I dove in and changed an entire 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 steering column, converted from standard steering to the highline with stereo controls. Even got the clock spring changed over without breaking it from one wheel to another. That has to swap because the wiring is different from the standard to the highline series. In a mere 2 hours I changed out my landlord steering assembly and had it all changed over with a newer steering wheel, all the controls, and less one bad steering shaft bearing. Today I get to play with a Ford 7.3L diesel and my truck with steering issues.

Just to keep posting going I'm going to tell what I've got in mind. So instead of dedicated screen for back up camera I've been looking at clip rear view camera that record both forward and rearward. I'm actually looking for one so I could do something like @IBMobilewhere the rear camera can be WiFi and remote mount in the rear window of the RV possibly. Then have a second mount on the truck possibly. This covers both forward and rearward views. Already got my radar detector hanging from the rear view mirror and the emergency red light hidden behind the rear view mirror. https://www.amazon.com/TOGUARD-Control-Cameras-Waterproof-Assistance/dp/B0899J7471/ To this day I've never found a really good reason for air bag as of yet. Even towing my big 31 foot RV I don't normally have a lot of front to rear rocking. I would most likely skip the air bag still after 423k miles without air bags. My Mopar1973Man High Idle is hidden in the pouch of the dash. It hangs downward with the knob from the top of the pouch that manuals have. Nobody even knows that is there. Nice hiding spot for the switch. Pouch is still in the dash. Manual CAD cable. Thank gawd I've got solid axles I hate that design and still do... I have guys constantly coming with vacuum issues or CAD diaphragm issues. That one less on my dash. To this day ZERO 4WD issues yet with solid axles. Even on my 1996 With CAD axle I've still got issues with it locking and unlocking the axle. Converted the cigarette light over to USB QC3 ports with a volt meter. I'm going to change the power point over to another USB QC3 port without a display being that circuit is +12V hot constantly. This will get rid of all the cigarette light USB chargers I've got. Like my Radar was a cigarette light powered. I went on Amazon and convert it to a directed wired device. https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Hard-Wire-Radar-Detectors/dp/B004AMBW1U/ One day I want to do another mod of the exhaust brake switch. The shift rod would be replaced with gas pipe and the wires ran inside the pipe up to the shift knob and have the exhaust brake switch either in the knob or just below with the typical switch. My stereo was a good choice the Kenwood Bluetooth model is really good at playing my music from my phone but just as I bought that stereo Google Play (Music Player) was obsoleted. I had to download a different player to play my massive amount of MP3 files. I got Audify Music Player off of Android play. https://audifyplayer.com/ As for the Kewood playing Spotify or Pandora isn't working correctly being the Kenwood app is not designed for my Samsung S10+ Android 10 software it was designed for older software.

I know that feel all so well. It seem like your just a kid a just a few years ago. All you wanted to do is grow up so you could drive, drink, etc. Now you past that markers and it seem like time flies by now at super sonic speed. Hard for me to believe I made to 50 years old. Week blow on by and I'm here going it Friday I can do... OPPS! Actually is Saturday and it closed.

Easy pull the alternator field lead (blue and green wires) and see if the problem goes away. APPS being weird the only thing I can suggest is replacement.

Not sure about the alternating grid heaters either you could test for that by using a test light and probe the two trigger posts on the solenoids to see what is going one. Still in all the testing should be done on a fully warmed truck that has been driven till full operation temperature. Regardless the first start up the batteries are drawn down deeply between the pre heat grid heaters and the cranking over. This is not a fair test. Again make sure to drive the truck till completely warm and then leave it run and do your test again. This should be unloaded alternator with everything turned off.

Go warm up the truck and drive it. Once full warmed up now test. Again with grid heater running and engine is cold the batteries are cold so high numbers are seen. Drive it and warm it up and leave it run now test your AC noise again. At this point the grid heater are disabled and batteries should be charged and engine is warmed.

Normal to see the spike but the amount is the problem. Since there is no way to evenly load the system there is no way to test the alternator at home. Like if I turned on everything in my truck with LED lights and HID headlights will have lower load vs your truck. So of course my ac noise voltage is much lower. I can't say only my values work. This where you need to bench test the alternator before leaving the store if it passing then your fine. But yes its normal for AC noise to rise with grid heaters. This is another reason why I unhook mine in the summer no need to add stress to the alternator diodes. This is why we made the home test unloaded so there is just resting alternator and measure the AC voltage. Since there is no way to even load evbery truck and get the same results to the same test. Even grid heaters could fire 1 or 2 elements depending on the temp at start time. IAT controls pre-heat. Then Battery Temp controls post heat.