Mopar1973Man

Ok here is my example I'm on Ubuntu Linux. So my SSD drive is 250 GB drive. I've got all my Linux ROOT files on the SSD. Being Linux gives me the choice of placing all the read only files in one partition. So the 250 SSD has a partition for the Linux ROOT and then space for Windows 7 (VirtualBox). This ROOT partition is only system files and are typically only read from here. The only writes that might happen is configuration changes or updates. Then my storage drive is a 1 TB (1,000 GB) hard drive. Now Linux allows me to specify my HOME partition. This is where all your store of files, downloads, pictures, music, videos, etc all stored. This allows me to keep the writing stuff off the SSD extending my hard drive life of the SSD. Being most are good for 100,000 write cycles. My method reduces that write cycle to only when I run my system up date. This drive is a hybrid both SSD and Mechanical. sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get -y upgrade sudo apt-get autoremove sudo apt-get autoclean Then my massive backup drive which covers both the local machine and second backup of the website when I'm doing work. Ubuntu does a awesome job of backing up everything. This is a older mechanical drive that is even slower at 5,400 RPM.

About normal. Blow by issues are rare for the 1st and 2nd gens. It the 3rd Gens up with blow by issues when injectors stick open and wash the rings out.

Rear center light has a bad reputation for leaking rare for the window glass to leak unless its a slider. I've got a solid rear window.

No joke... With my 1,000 a week runs to handle @MoparMomdialysis trips was a mileage adder for sure. Now I'm mostly just local running. About once a week or every other week head down to Lewiston or Boise for groceries and supplies. It will take me a bit to get geared up but I'm looking at possibly doing a bit of hotshot work with the 2006 Dodge being its got a Gooseneck hitch.

I wonder if his rear brake light is leaking water through too? I would look at resealing the rear cab light and then make sure all the drain holes are functional and clear.

Either one is fine. I'm trying ti get my tune back in action I was hitting 19 to 20 MPG pretty constant then down the truck over a month and now I'm trying to catch up again 16 to 17 MPH sucks big. Today I'll finish off the my Blue Top Steering install. Then run to McCcall and get a new crank seal and do that over again she is slobbered all over herself with at least a full quart of oil. 7 x 0.009 or your 8 x 0.0085 still smaller than what I run with the 7 x 0.010. The 8 hole would be interesting wider spray.

You made the first 100k miles. @dripleybeen to the moon and back. (487k miles). I'm right behind him with my truck at 424k miles. Another ~50k miles to get home from the moon. Getting to the moon is 238k miles. Moon and back is 487k. Around the world is barely 50k miles.

Mine the bolt for the ground came loose.

WiFi should be stronger signal. At least my WiFi here reaches across the yard nearly to the fence. But alas I'm Android and use bluetooth... Merry Christmas... ive gotta get back to trans service...

The Bluetooth for me is about 20 to 30 feet distance. I've also cut the bluetooth head lead and extended into the cab this gave even more distance being there is glass windows to transmit out of version trying to transmit through the hood metal. Bluetooth head is just under my my shift tower plastics. Yeah it even snowing today and its cold out too.

Kind of nice to be inside the house and monitor the truck as it warms up a bit and I can finish a bit of web work before I leave for work... I just had to share this I don't know if most of you know this trick. Yuo can see the truck is just outside the window. My cellphone is on my desktop.

I seated my studs into the bottom of the hole then backed off just slightly. I didn't want it be wedged tighten after another 300k miles somewhere around 700k miles next time.

I found a few just under a 100 dollars.

Yeah when I did the mine there was no 1/4 or 1/2 turn stuff. I know the final torque was 125 foot/pounds for ARP 425 studs.

Nice. Could you write an article on how you built that exactly. I would love to have a cheap test stand for 24V injectors!

Most of the pups out here play hard go get there truck sloppy with mud and never wash it. After a awhile the salt gets into the mud and accelerates the rusting process. Just about keeping the truck clean of mud and all drain holes open and flowing. Less water can stand in the bottom of the rocker panels the better off you are. Old story but when we moved to Idaho we only had the 1973 Dodge Charger and the 1978 Dodge Magnum XE. On the Magnum had a drain hole plug with body sealant. So the rocker panel on the driver side just below the rear window glass was rusting out. I had a excellent body man next door. He crease the metal so it was stepped and not sure what kind of fastener or glue he used but no welding. This is the best way to do it so there is no burnt metal that will rot from inside out.

Sorry for the theme breaking the site. As for the oil pressure building mine does the same thing in the morning on cold starts. Rattles just for a moment till oil pressure builds. I normally just let it idle for a good 2 minutes before getting moving on sub zero mornings. Once its had some time to pump oil then I just get rolling and go easy till it builds more heat.

Ummm... Better move north and check out the weather up here. Being subzero is common place in New Meadows. At least once a year you'll get a week of minus weather just about every year. Just a couple of days ago I just saw -2*F driving to New Meadows, ID.

This was caused by not doing fluid flushes every 30k miles. As brake fluid ages the fluid takes on moisture. It's a hygroscopic fluid which means it will absorb moisture from the air. As the moisture is absorbed over time the boiling point of the fluid is reduced so brake fade happens sooner, and the moisture starts to rot the rubber lines and seals on top of oxidizing the metals inside all the brake system. Like you the proportioning valve had failed because of corrosion of the metals.

Just torqued mine and never thought about it again. No metal clips I left them out.

Like me up here the salt is killing trucks left and right. I've been using waste oil and spraying up in the body structure as much as a I could. Keeping the mud washed out of all the body drain is critical to good life.

@JAG1to start it and @IBMobile is there to shut it down. With a good joke!

Bosch are not as easy to rebuild. ND alternators are super simple to rebuild.

Need a new blower motor and blower resistor.

Cardboard in between the rad and cooler is dangerous. Your preventing air flow over the internet cooler. Under boost it could get hot in the manifold. Why I cover the grill not in between coolers.