Mopar1973Man

Ok. Now little trick look up MSDS for your favorite cetane products and look at the chemicals used to make said products. Now take a sample of said product and put small amount in a small open container and leave it exposed. Ex: Power Service will change to a tarry sticky product if exposed. Just remember leave any oil exposed it will still be oil. (Lubricity is poor). Now back to MSDS sheet look up the BTUs of said chemicals you find they are much lower than the diesel fuel. There is no way to add a low BTU chemical to diesel fuel and have it increase the BTUs which is impossible. Ex: Biodiesel is lower BTUs vs Petroleum Diesel (lower cetane). Now go out on YouTube there is a video of home test of a guy burning Power Service and it was very smokey and sooty and then he adds 2 Cycle Oil and it cleans up the mess of Power Service. No, I don't don't support the Climate Change nor do I believe EPA systems are cleaning up the air. If we cared we all have high efficiency Diesels up above 60 MPG which produces the least amount of emissions but here we are.

Sadly that is all a lie. As cetane goes up, lubricity gets worse because of the solvents to increase cetane. Then BTUs go down as seen in my previous post. Emissions go up being you have to burn more fuel to travel the same distance. Louder knock because cetane rose and sudden hammering effect of the rapid burn fuel which enhances wear.

As quoted from the ASTM Labs manual for diesel fuel cetane. High cetane means lower BTU's per gallon and lower MPG's. The lower the cetane the higher the BTUs per gallon and the more work is capable of performing with better MPG's.Dark green 43 cetane summer fuel, Light green nearly 55 cetane and winterized fuel.

Here you go. This should help. I've been working on efficiency and attempting to keep my costs low with all my medical appointments in Boise ID from here which is 180 miles away. I've now got it down to 1/4 tank to do that one way even with interstate travel at 80 MPH.

Pump creates the same pressure to all but the injectors are worn out. That is because number 3 is popping to low and dumping pressure. If the spring and shim are worn out the pressure will drop on that cylinder. Injectors are a way cheaper to deal with even pop testing is like 7 to 15 dollars a injector to be tested. Still have high engine idle and zero engine load still pointing to bad injectors. No injector will last beyond 100k miles. Pull yours out and test I bet money they are all below 293 Bar (4,250 PSI) which is lower limit. 310 bar (4,500 PSI) is normal.

EGTs. Lower than 3.55 ratio no matter what I do the EGTs will be high. Then everything else will run hot. You won't be able to run high timing because you'll need constant retard for boost. Remember Trans Temp is my Engine Oil temp. You'll see every stays fairly cool even running 200°F thermostat. Another to note 30 degrees of timing is the max of the VP44. 3.69:1 ratio at 80 MPH (I84 heading to Boise) 3.69:1 ratio at 65 MPH (US 95 heading between Weiser and Payette ID) 3.69:1 ratio at 55 MPH (Between New Meadows and Council ID) Now look at the ECO. Nice high numbers. I know I don't display boost pressure being I know my MAP sensor has some error. Stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) with 7x0.010 injectors (+150 HP popped at 320 bar) 55 MPH = 0 PSI Boost 65 MPH = 2 PSI Boost 80 MPH = 7 PSI Boost Again poor finally ratio will require much more retard than me which would build boost and help control EGTs but you'll lose some of the power stroke to build boost wasting expanding gases to spin a turbo. Now the only pic that is not in cruise mode is 80 MPH but I've reduced the amount of retard based on load which allowed me to keep the gains.

Different high idle but it's only 6 cylinder and no 3 cylinder.

Injectors are junk. Engine load is zero percent and idle is above 800 RPM this is true because the injectors are opening too early and ECM has cut fuel too ZERO and still can't hit 800 RPM +/- 5.

Give me some time. I'm releasing an article in the standard database as a guide to proper temperatures for the Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner for efficiency purposes. I'm just in the middle of writing it now and trying to proof read and still adding more information as my brain is tickled with different topics of temperature. Onwe I just finished up was talking about fuel temperature and flash point of fuel.

Again I'm not sure the feature is present in the 3rd Gen Smarty Tuners. You can try and let us know.

Quadzilla Adrenaline - Optimal Engine Temperatures for Efficiency Optimal Coolant Temperature - 190℉ Factory thermostats set to either 190℉ or 192℉ are fine and will perform satisfactorily for most Quadzilla Adrenaline owners. For the people up north, it's possible to see coolant temperatures drop out below 180℉ because of the natural efficiency of the 24V and at idle the Cummins ISB tends to run cooler. When coolant temperatures start dropping the thermodynamics of the engine will shed more of the heat of the burning fuel back into the excessively cold coolant jacket. Experimental 200℉ thermostat I've been running a 2012 6.7L 200℉ thermostat for the winter of 2023. I'm using a Gates thermostat and the operational range of the thermostat is from 199℉ to 210℉ roughly. This brought up the block and cylinder head temperature and I'm finding the engine load is reduced about 4% at 65 MPH. For the winter time, I was seeing -7℉ for the 2023 winter and with the added temperature I was able to gain MPG's still in the colder air. NOTE: Warmer coolant temperatures will affect, Intake Air Temperatures, Fuel Temperatures, Engine Oil Temperature If your timing is correct you should have an Engine Oil temperature of about 30℉ to 35℉ lower than coolant. A stock 190℉ thermostat will have engine oil temperatures of 160℉ to 170℉ with correct timing. As for the Experiemential 200℉ thermostat, you will see 170℉ to 180℉ for engine oil temperatures with correct ignition timing. If the engine oil temperature rises to coolant temperature or beyond then your timing values are wrong and could be either too retarded in timing or too advanced in timing. Engine Oil Temperature and Timing You can use the transmission sensor of the Quadzilla into the extra port on the top of the oil filter housing. Do not use any sealants or tapes the brass body needs to have a clean ground connection to be accurate. Retarded Timing Too retarded the generation of the fuel burn will occur too late and add heat to the coolant jacket at the cylinder level and this added heat will reduce the performance of the oil cooler. Advanced Timing Too Advanced you'll notice the engine oil temperature will rise because most Quadzilla Adrenaline owners create negative torque tunes with excessive timing which will transfer heat energy to the cylinder jacket. Again this affects the performance of the oil cooler to exchange hot oil into an already warmer coolant jacket at the cylinder level. Intake Air Temperatures (IAT) The Optimal intake Air Temperature (IAT) is 80℉ to 140℉ for Efficiency Don't get me started with "Cold Air Intakes" and "Cold Air is Denser". I'm learning that for efficiency reasons you need to have warm air to aid in efficiency more so in the dead of winter. We are not running wide open throttle we are trying to reduce the amount of fuel being burnt and boost pressures at cruise state. This knowledge comes from my High Idle Switch and the MPG mode. Bringing the actual intake temperature up will aid in converting the fuel mist to a fuel vapor and ignition fairly rapidly. The colder the intake air temperatures the longer time is required to convert liquid fuel to vapor stage for ignition also part of the fuel will not completely vaporize and never really burn under light loads. Hence we add some warmth back to the intake air temperatures and fuel vaporizes better and ignition occurs with less advancement and less wasted fuel. I've noticed with the 200℉ thermostat the Intake Air Temperature will be higher which has helped keep Intake Air Temperatures above 80℉ through most of the winter. Fuel Temperature (Quadzilla Adrenaline Only) The Optimal Fuel Temperature (Quadzilla Adrenaline Only) is 80℉ to 140℉ for Efficiency Flash Point of Diesel Fuel - 125℉ to 180℉ depending on other factors of distilling and additives used. Excessively cold fuel takes more time to change from a liquid state to a vapor state. Then excessively high fuel temperatures tend to create asphaltenes which is the black material you'll find in the stock fuel filter or possibly aftermarket filters. High fuel temperatures will put stress on your PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. My stated fuel temperature range you find mirrors the Intake Air Temperature. This is because both the fuel temperature and Intake Air Temperature will match more times than not as long as the factory fuel filter housing is still in place and you The other part of the trick is NOT to have your fuel pickup tube in the fuel sender basket, this happens to be the hottest fuel being returned from the back of the head which can be hot enough to create the asphaltenes. Using a draw straw in the main fuel tank will have cooler fuel temperatures which can reduce the creation of asphaltenes and extend your fuel filter life to 60,000 miles to 80,000 miles with no problem. Cooler fuel of course is better for the PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. NOTE: Transmission Temperature is Engine Oil Temperature. View full Cummins article

Worn-out injectors typically show signs more so when warmed up than cold. Still, in all I need to know the idle speed and engine load to verify more of the injectors which are still possible and don't always create a steady problem but random ones as well.

Hook up a live data tool and report back idle speed and engine load on a fully warmed engine.

How many miles on the injectors? Idle at 880 RPM is high and a sign of wore out injectors.

I've heard rumors that 03 and 04 if the ECM is flashed you could get this. Then maybe you could wire fooler switch in to control. Personally I've never tried it. Biggest part is getting the flash to enable the software.

Pollock Mountain, New Meadows, Idaho

This is near home. This is Fall Creek. Just happened to see a good pictures and figured I'd share my spring day. Side note: I'm almost done with my chemo 1 left to go. Yes imhanging in there.

No delete powers here. Locked out. Glad you got it figured out.

2 Things iQuad head and the CANBus need to be hooked up. Then the V2 tune option should be be enabled in vehicle type. If that isn't working give @Quadzilla Power a call.

Better check everything. You can buy an alternator and slam it on and still be dead if the PCM is fried.

PCM protect fuse blow? Tach signal present to turn on the PCM? Are you seeing voltage on the blue and green wires while the engine is running?

My best to explain levels... Level 0 - Quadzilla disabled. Stock ECM in full control. No fuel table or timing table is used of the Quadzilla. Only live data from the CANBus. Level 1 - Valet Mode. This allows us to lock the fuel limit to a single value say I use 10% which the truck will drive but a max speed of 20 MPH. This allows the truck to move for a shop tech but not be driven very fast at all. The fuel table is disabled and only this signal number fuel amount is used. Level 2 - Stock Fuel. This level will allow for all your timing values and then fuel is capped at 100% fuel. No additional fuel will be given above stock 100% regardless of the fuel table setup. Level 3 - Full CANBus fuel. Now your entire CANBus fuel table will be used all the way to 150% fueling. Full timing table is used. Levels 4 to 11 - These are all the wiretap levels. Like me, I only use 7 levels total which makes the 4 levels for wiretap split out to 25% per level. Now my tune the 1200us of pulse so if like today I've got level 5 set and that means I only get 600us pulse of wiretap. More levels the more it splits out the wiretap.

Let me work on that later possibly while doing chemo. I'll update info.

100 dollars a tune. I will update as many times as needed in 30 days. There is several other factors needs to be looked at. Like final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires. Like Beast I went from 265/75 R16 to 245/75 R16 which is one inch smaller but changes to a final ratio of 3.69:1 after tires. Optimal IAT is 80 to 140°F Optimal thermostat 200°F (experimental) Optimal fuel temp <140°F Optimal cetane <45 cetane