Mopar1973Man

He'll need to key off for 10 seconds. Then do the starter bump. Then it will run the 20 seconds. The stall will be counted and key bump will not function. The ECM has to be down for 10 seconds and do a fresh reboot for starter bump to work. Watch the fuel pressure.

When you figure out the upgrade to D2S lens and the D2S shroud then the rush shipping you can see the increased price I paid. Still in all the Morimoto lighting is awesome.

Mine failed on the FM side. Tuner no longer works.

Remember grid heaters will cycle still pull voltage down. Grid heaters draw 95 maps per element.

What is you fuel pressure?

Yup. Got my transmission back in and haven't been home in nearly 5 days. Seems like I get up drive to doctors appt and to dialysis. Got home last night went to sleep got up and now eating breakfast in Weiser ID. I only worked 1 day. Close to 1,200 miles this week. So my shop is a trainwreck tools on the floor, dirty rags, bench is full of junk, yup it's a mess.

Better stay away from here too. Too many tools stuck in the walls. Then too many tools left out from previous jobs.

Mine are still zipzied to the fender as of yet... PIAA 530 LED driving lights (not fog pattern). Super bright. They are brighter than the Morimoto's. Look up from the bottom there is a star wheel you can slide a #2 philips screw driver into from the bumper gap. Only up and down of the beam. No left to right adjustment.

Sure.

Neither of those sensor control idle speed. Only IVS idle validation switch controls idle. When the APPS grounds the idle pin the ECM will control idle speed directly. The only sensor that controls idle speed is coolant.

We will see..

Ummm. That's too high period. ECM possibly has fueling table issues. I was think lower like 850 to 875. 1100 RPM is like the 6 cylinder high idle but typically brake pedal or touching throttle cancels. It should not be 1100 rpm at any point after touching the throttle. I've got an guy in Texas I've been working with he's got 3 trucks with the same issue. I'll post anything I learn on this too.

Most napa stores have them in stock.

Problem is when the seal gives up will you be able to get a new seal for the sump. There has been a few that did sumps then had leaks then could not get new seals. Then the hunt is on for a replacement fuel tank. Which one member told me was a tough deal and expensive.

How old are the injectors? If the injectors are over 100k miles for sure they are shot. As injectors wear the pop pressure falls. The engine load will reach 0 and the ECM will not be able to defuel enough to get the idle down to 800 RPM. If the injectors are questionable I would have them sent for testing.

Still doubt that being the sensor is INSIDE the oil. The sensor the probe tip is nearly 3/4 long inside the oil. The oil is MOVING past the sensor and oil filter into the turbo. Now I could see you point like in transmission application where people put the sensor in the accumulator piston and the fluid is not flowing. This is in a flowing oil galley and the main oil feed to the turbo. So I still doubt your comments being the fluid is moving into and out of the oil filter.

We can change sensor but it not going to change the temp. I can measure the temp with my IR gun and still be the same. I cant make it hotter being the oil temp is still the oil temp.

Timbos APPS is all based on angle. That simple there is no electronics. As you can see there is just the contact strip. Voltage is only use to see if you cross the boundary from idle to throttling and then you unscrewing the stop pin till you come back to rest in the idle zone.

Welcome to the family.

Sorry. I don't know what to say. I've check it many times and it correct. Remember 24V are NOT CR engines. Might hold true for your old truck... Umm the oil is flowing through that port. That is true oil temp from the oil cooler. If not my turbo would sure hate life if the oil isn't moving.

250 miles daily trips. This is my standard from New Meadows to Ontario, OR runs and back home. Photo is dated 12/31/2019 (Tuesday)

It does. I can crank up the timing to make it hotter but... MPG drops out badly.. 15 to 17 MPG. Outside temps in the 10 to 20*F up here. Thermostat is closed and holding barely 192 to 195*F. The lower coolant hose is COLD to the touch. More timing the hotter the oil temp. More retard the cooler the oil tremp. This photo was a older tune my recent tune is right at 20* at 2k RPM. Remember Trans is the engine oil.

Switch back bulbs give off more light than a amber bulb. Like mine cast light for almost 200 feet very bright. Very attention grabbing with the white markers then when your turn signal used its even wicked bright amber flashing bulb. Gives that modern look of the halo driving light or as some are call it daytime driving lights. During daylight hours I typically just run my marker lights.

NAPA part number is listed in both of my articles on LED marker lights. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NF_EP27L

Efficiency... Less heat lost the more power to the ground. All about the Quadzilla timing. Oil cooler port on the oil filter housing. Extra temp sender comes with the Quad which is labeled Trans Temp but I know it Engine oil temp. I'm running about 20* at 2k RPMs.