Mopar1973Man

Tap the wire. Problem like me up north the salt would rot the splice and your in for a VP44 replacement. Best to use the plate being it is a weather proof connection.

NO. It pierces the plastic case and lightly touching the circuit board tracer internally. There are no wires inside the case just a circuit board.

BD Stealth Plate is what your looking for. I've got one on Beast.

If you watch engine oil temperature that will tell you how far out of time you are by temperature. If your too retarded then the fire burn down the cylinder wall heating the coolant jacket. Same is true with too far advanced but your trying to squeeze your fire making negative torque. Hence why you watch engine load because it will rise. As weather changes and cetane changes then timing changes low cetane burns slower but longer. High cetane lights easy but burns out fast which high cetane has less btus per gallon than low cetane. Depending on intake manifold temperature now the air is above 80°F no problem it will light easy. Colder you might try more timing but because with high cetane fuels already advanced lights easy might be off on timing again watch engine oil temperature you'll now which way is right. Cooler engine oil mean better timing being all the fuel is burning in the bowl of the piston. Anything that creates heat is a loss of power. Then thermal dynamics basically states difference of temperatures will attract like magnets. This is why I'm running 200°F thermostat from the 6.7L Cummins. If I raise the coolant temperature then my cruising cylinder temperature are fail close and it doesn't dump much heat in the coolant jacket. Again watching engine oil temperature I seen a rise from the 190°F to the 200°F but still floating cool at 172 to 175°F engine oil temperature. Now I produce more power to the tires. I've done it a few time doing heavy throttle from a stop to about 70 MPH. I know Beast will possibly fry the tires in 2nd gear. Grab 3rd I've seen it resume frying tires. 4th gear get a squeak. Now pulling 4th grade up Goose Creek I've broke tires lose in just about every corner marked for 25 MPH but pulling 40 to 45 MPH. Level 3 I can mat the throttle and never even let up. I've been clear to 105 MPH but EGTs hover 1,000°F to 1,100°F. Level 4 and up I've got too much fuel so the lower levels are usable but in a burst fashion like passing semis I'll be tiping 1,400°F EGTs but oil temperature will surge for a few miles and drop again. Lots of fire. Timing hunt I feel might be AC noise issue. Pull your field wire off the alternator and test drive. If the problem leaves then the alternator has AC noise issues and needs replacement. Then I would do the W-T ground wire mod.

Hey @Scarecrow give me a call and tell you some numbers to try also another trick to learn timing better. 208 315 1470

Don't buy Quadzilla XZT you cannot do custom tuning. You have to send in the module to be programmed. I cannot do any tuning or support it. You need the full Quadzilla Adrenaline to do custom tuning. I'm constant tweaking my Quadzilla tune to for weather and conditions. With a XZT you'll have remove the XZT and send it in to be reprogramned every time conditions change winter to Summer. Towing or empty truck. Just an example when my engine oil temperature rises to match coolant temperature I know my timing is off. I can pull over knock 2 degrees off the cruise timing program the Adrenaline drive 5 miles my oil temperature drops to 30 degrees cooler than coolant which means my timing is correct. I'm also running 24 to 26 degrees at 2k RPM. This is some thing you cannot do with a XZT. Trans temp is oil temp. Coolant over 204 shows -40. Yes I'm running a 200 degree thermostat. Yes I enjoy my high 20s MPG. Again an XZT can't do this. Cold air degrades MPG. Hence my 200 degree thermostat and my attempts to keep IAT above 80 degrees because optimal IAT is 80 to 140 degree any lower than 80 it degrades MPGs. Air is too cold to convert diesel fuel to vapor to bang.

Yes I build tunes. Best to go to the source of Quadzilla which is @Quadzilla Power at https://quadzillapower.com/

Quadzilla is the best on the market with full timing and fuel control which no other product can do.

All transmitted over a CCD Bus in digital signal. So you might have to send your PCM for testing. If the ECM is creating and the cluster is reading signal then the PCM has internal issues which are not capable to read tach signal off the CCD network. This is a full digital signal and very hard to decode which few have managed to do.

Oh. Crank sensor now I'm with you. Sorry. Again you need a o-scope the sensor created variable frequency as rpm rises and falls. I would pull the sensor out and verify the two screws didn't fall out of the tone wheel and then the tone wheel falls off in the pan. Yes it does happen. You will most likely need to replace it being it most likely bent and crushed from the spinning crank. There is a member here that had to replace the tone wheel. Oil pan comes out easy just jack the frame up allowing the front axle to hang. There will be plenty of room to pull the pan so you can fix the problem. Sensor wise just need to check and see if 5V is present at the plug. But yes the ECM counts the frequency of the pulses to figure out RPM. Yeah your going need a o-scope.

You'll need a o-scope because the frequency varies with speed so the PCM doesn't control speed readings but the ABS computer does and sent out on the CCD bus to all modules that are listening. Like ECM, PCM, cluster, overhead trip computer, etc. Module Masters in Moscow ID does rebuild the ABS computer and gives a good long term warranty.

IAT still will control engine timing regardless of the grid heater being missing or broken. The best I can say you could have the ECM sent into @Auto Computer Specialist and let them test the ECM and verify you have right software. Then only other thing i will suggest is doing W-T ground wire mod. To make sure it's not AC noise from the alternator fouling timing.

Seriously off the top sounds like a possible set of rings are needed. I would first do a compression test on the engine and see if there is damaged rings or pistons. You have some amounts of blow by which is why the loss of oil and dripping out the breather. Yes I would start with compression test and skip the blow by because we need to know which cylinder is possibly damaged. A good shop might also have a bore scope small enough to fit through the injector hole and be able to see the cylinder walls and see if there is scratches or damaged pistons.

Yeah I'm getting little things done to fix beast up. Yeah my energy and strength are crappy but I manage to get minor repairs done on the truck. Had to share it not like I'm super busy on my retirement.

Holy cow! I just had a phone call from way down under in Australia. It our Ford Conversion with a 24V Cummins. I've got to do a bit of email support to get the info passed along to his mechanic. Seriously like WOW!!! I've got people calling from all over the planet. This crazy Mopar Man is still reaching to far corners of the world with tech support for Cummins Engines.

I had some nasty rust on the tailgate. Idaho is using really corrosive salt this year. This is not to be perfect bit as a stop gap till I am done with my chemo or when I have the funds for the body work. Thanks to Mark he's got a nice palm sander and good assortment of sanding disc's. There where two spots where 40 grit grinder was used to dig at the deep pitted metal. Then using black primer to match the gloss black I bought today. Help bond the new paint to the metal and hopefully stop the rusting process. I've got a few spots on the body where rust blisters are starting and need the blister broke open metal cleaned up and painted to just stop the growth of rust. Again isn't to be pretty or perfect just to seal the metal till I get to the paint process later after my cancer.

There are many secrets I've found regarding tuning on a Quadzilla or using custom injectors which is the tough part finding proper timing where your engine load drops lower, EGTs drop lower, and engine oil temperature drops. TIP: Anything that is creating heat is a loss of power. That horsepower created in motion as it travels from the piston to the rear tires if it's creating heat its is wasted energy converting to heat. The ultimate is not to have any heat. The best we can do is reduce the amount created. TIP: Optimal final ratio for daily drivers is 3.73:1 after tires. Example: Take the stock 265/75 R16 off and pit on a set of 245/75 R16 ties now switches the final from 3.55 to 3.69 after tires. This is reduction on transmission temperature and rear axle temperature.

He's right I didn't pay attention to the front mounted distributor. That is a big block. 383, 400, 413, 426 or 440. My Charger had a 383 Big Block.

Need a weather proof relay like an AirDog I've not had any power issues since 2006 when it was installed.

Nope neither.

Sounds like heavy cruise timing and then your hitting heavier engine loads which it now retarding timing to build boost. Then it engine load drops and the cruise timing kicks in again. SECRET: IAT temperature below 80°F ECM will add roughly another 4 degrees of timing. Warmer intake air works way better than excessive cold which is kicking that excessive timing in. MyQuadzilla I'm running right near 29°BTDC at 2500 RPM at 82 MPH. But I limit my maximum cruise boost to 5 PSI or less. Your over advancing why the knock. SECRET: If you monitor engine oil temperatures you can find your optimal timing but you need a Quadzilla to do this. So optimal timing your engine oil temperature should be 30°F cooler than engine coolant. I'm running a 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins I see 200 to 210°F coolant temperature and engine oil top out at 175°F so all my fuel is burned in the cup of the piston and little flame front on the cylinder walls. If the timing is wrong there is excessive flame on the cylinder walls the coolant near the oil cooler is warmer and engine oil temperature will rise because the fire isn't at the right time. Trans Temp on the display is engine oil. Coolant will rollover to -40°F when coolant is greater than 204°F.

Whole article in the database... you need to wonder over and do some reading... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/w-t-ground-wire-mod-simplified-r574/

Do you have a PCM noise filter installed?

When you have too advanced timing the fuel is lighting off and starting flame front on the cylinder walls which in turn heats the cylinder coolant jacket. Now the engine oil temperature will rise because there is too much heat from the cylinders and now the oil cooler can't unload heat into a warm coolant jacket. When your flame is created in the bowl of the piston you notice there is no flame contact with the walls and the coolant temperature is going to be cooler around the cylinder walls. When I see the engine oil temp rise to coolant temperature I know I need to drop 2 degrees of cruise timing and I'm good to go in about 5 miles drop to about 175*F with my 200*F thermostat so then let on knowing the changes I've got to do as the weather warms up and cetane starts to drop. Reverse can be true too being too retarded can start a flame front on the cylinder wall. As the piston starts down and expanding the front on to the walls as the piston is traveling down. TIP: Optimal intake manifold temperature is between 80 to 140*F - Cooler temps just degrade MPG and require retune to stay up with the changes of fuel and environment. Tip: The optimal cetane is 40-43 on these trucks unless in winter climate then 45-47 is required. Adding more cetane does not improve fuel. More cetane you add the lower the BTUs become for the fuel. Keep your cetane as low as possible at all times. Coolant should be 190*F Thermostat. 180 Thermostat is too cold for our 24V because of the valve design it cools down way easy. This is why I went to 200*F thermostat being I've got temperatures down to -20*F this winter. Intake manifold heat is a requirement to make these Cummins run in the 20's MPG wise even at minus temperatures. SECRET: Fuel table shouldn't rise above 100% in your cruise state range. Example my truck to climb a 7% grade at 65 MPH needs about 13 to 14 PSI of boost. My fuel table rises above 100% at 15 PSI of boost. If I dig into the throttle I have all my power there at the ready. As well as cooler EGT's