Mopar1973Man

That will work. Simpler yet a piece of 12 or 14 AWG cable between the driver side terminal and a fender bolt or body bolt of your choice.

Might actually do pressure gauge testing to see where your transmission pressures are at. All the pressure test ports and pressures are in the Dodge FSM.

Hmmm... Biggest thing I can say is make sure the APPS signal is NOT modified by wiring mods. I've seen people jump the APPS sensor to the PCM to hope to increase the signal and this should not be done.

Was the truck warmed up completely and left running? I'm trying to make sure the batteries are charged and no big loads are running. That way we can measure a fairly common at rest AC noise levels. Should be pretty steady typically. Jumps are big loads stressing the diodes.

Yes. 😋 I know the grill is rather just distasteful being bare plastic.

Beast, is nearing 500k miles on the odometer. I'm doing the smart thing at this time and parking Beast back in the garage for a long nap. I need to do both a front and rear crank seal on Beast. Beast needs to be parked and left in storage for the time being. I want to be out and building new tunes for Beast. Thor is going to take the lead at this time. This will allow me the time to fix Beast properly. Beast final project was the chasing the truck bed and tailgate.

The injector problems is over and done. The engine starts easy for even the first start of the day. The Airdog 150 is being installed today and the pump is mounted inside the fender well of the bed. I'm going have a good hiding spot from debris strike and I'll add a simple plastic fender well to the front piece of that fender. Now the sender in the tank I assembled as directed by the AirDog instructions. I left the 45 degree cut on the tip of the bottom straw and didn't alter any parts on this install. Just the location of the AirDog is not on the frame and not dragging the filters below the frame. The idler pulley on the fan belt just below the upper radiator hose has been replaced. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and reached in from under the truck pulled the belt off the A/C compressor to give some slack. Then I hopped back up and using a 13mm wrench and just unscrewed on pulley and then straight replacement and tighten back up again. Place your belt on the pulley and then return under the truck to pull the tensioner back and slip the belt back on the compressor again. Tail lights have been installed but I need to wire up the lights to my current tail light loom. You can follow my Blog post every day on this...

Here you go, gang, I've gone and done it now. I found the next great hiding place on a 3rd Gen Truck and gave the AirDog a protected spot. I mocked up the bracket in the bed and then mounted the pump bracket upside down against the inner bed wall. This makes it a bit tricky to get the 4 Allen bolts in and tight. Then I managed to get the suction line hooked up to the modified sender straw. Then I removed and cut the filler neck hose and inserted the return tee into the filler neck hose. Clamped the tee in place in the filler neck hose. Now hooked up the return line for the AirDog. I'm going to have to redo my electrical, since I need a bit more wire to reach the pump, but I'll get it. I crawled under Thor and using a 1/2 breaker bar and loosen the fan belt tension. I was able to hop up on the bumper and get the new idler pulley installed and tighten up. Now I'll admit the fan belt was a bit higher with the new pulley. Got it all back together. Then I was looking at my leaking radiator. The driver side radiator header tank is cracked in the front face. I've got to look into replacing the radiator in Thor since the plastic tank is cracked. Maerk and I are looking into the idea of plastic welding the crack shut for a band-aid fix.

Now to figure out which side or both sides? Assuming rear axle. How about the from axle?

I got a little bit done today with Thor. I've now got bumpers on Thor. The rear bumper is off a 2005 Dodge Hemi and fits perfect. I got it bolted up and license plate on the rear bumper. Looks good. Now the front bumper is off a 4th Gen truck doesn't quite fit right. Its a bumper and will have to do for the time being. Now the other problem is the electrical is strange but 2006 was a single year where the taillights was totally different. It's like the 2007 for all the plugs and everything works but the brake lights. Now the 2005 wiring the main plug at the fender in the front is way different. I got a another butchered tail light loom and got it for free because it was a trainwreck cut wires everywhere. I got the plugs I needed for the tail lights now start testing for signals for brakes, turn, running lights, and backup lights. Yup it all works just got to modify my loom to have the new plugs on the ends. Mark is going to chase some solder and shrink tubing so I can get this wired up. Side note also... I went out this morning thinking I just fire up and move the truck near the shop. The batteries were near dead. Enough to light the dash but not enough to even kick the starter. Thor is sitting out front of the shop with a battery charger for the night.

That would work, just be sure to be on stable ground like asphalt or concrete. I wouldn't do this on dirt. Yes, you are correct if you pull the shafts in the rear axle, yes, then it's just the driveshaft. Stuff a rag in the axle tubes, it might push gear oil down the shaft ends while you are running the driveshaft. It's a good idea, and I'm waiting for the reply.

Have you checked the wheels for being true? Have you pulled both driveshafts and had them checked for true and balanced? Have you checked both front and rear wheel bearings for any sloppy bearings?

I would suggest you have the ABS computer reflashed with the proper tone wheel size and then rev/mile of your current tires. First off measure your AC noise voltage from the alternator after it has been driven and full warmed up. It should measure less than 0.05 Volts AC. Be aware you need a quality DVM that can measure small AC Voltages and multi-frequencies. Being fully warmed up, to ensure the grid heaters are off. Keep the engine running so the restart doesn't trip the grid heater again. I would highly suggest you do the W-T ground wire mod. You really need to get the TCC to lock up. Without the TCC working, you could create a lot of fluid temperature, so be careful. I really wonder if the noise issues is so bad the filter can get it to shift correctly.

I had to make a return trip and try to find the right wiring for a 2006 Dodge Ram. The weird part is that a 2005 tail light loom has different plugs than the 2006 main plug. The 2007 loom is totally different and is missing the white/tan lead for brake light, assuming that there is a turn signal stalk that cancels and supplies the brake signal down the turn signal lead like typical. Nope, Thor is different, where he has a separate tail light bulb for a brake light. Being I cannot get a 2006 loom for the tail lights at this time, I'm going to hack this up and make it work being right now the 2007 loom actually works perfectly for everything but brake lights. Since the white/tan lead is there, I can adapt the new plug that fits a sealed beam tail light. This is going to be fun too. 🤨