joecool911

The hard part was getting the center caps to stay on. 265/70-17 stock 3rd gen wheels. $100 and came with better rubber than I had on my old tires. Get me by until I need winter tires. Sporting my new U-weld it bumper painted with hammerite hammered finish in black. Plan is to paint the rocker panels same color and paint.

I started with aluminum mag wheels. So I was on my own as far as getting caps to stay on. Luckily the guy at the tire shop knew from my new wheels and caps which nuts I needed. And gave them to me for free. He had a 5 gallon bucket of misc lug nuts to sort through. I'll get pictures up soon.

This has been a lot harder than expected to get all the correct components. If I write a detailed account, better as a post or article? It will save a lot of figuring and running around. Lug nuts being the hard part. I'd need to know how to write an article.

I think the new gasket will help. Read somewhere to change every other TP change. Under pressure, so I doubt it's because it's upside down. I getting better at changing mine without loosing oil.

Take off your oil cap while truck is running. Set the oil cap on top of its hole. No blo by and the cap will sit there without moving. Moderate blow by it is I'll flutter. Lots it will shoot up.

Here is my idea of RV camping. That white spot in the background is my trailer during bear hunting. View from camp.

Top and bottom have bearing/seal carriers. Bottom has to be pulled out and has threaded holes to accommodate the puller. Top looks easy. So no need to get into the gears to change seals. Looks doable.

I know this doesn't fit exactly with RV's, but it's close. I've got a 1975 Johnson 50 that leaks water into the lower unit. After a few trips the fluid is milky. I regularly remove the lower unit to change water pump. But how hard is it to replace the seals? I have a factory service manual coming from eBay. It's cool that I found one! There are 2 seals. One on the shaft going to the power head and one on the prop shaft. I've always been frustrated by the fact that these older outboards don't have a pee stream to see that water is circulating. Kinda like old men. But I found a mod for that. Drill out the head for a $3 fitting, run some tubing to another $3 fitting in the lower power head case and you've got a pee stream. Both fittings on eBay. I'll need to remove the head to drill it, but that will allow for resurfacing anyway. Worst part is removing the 8 head bolts without breaking any off. Outboards get A white film on the treads that make removing bolts risky.

Yes on eBay. But thought maybe someone here had a set laying around.

Auto electric shops have a short finder of some kind. I had my local one find one for me and took minutes.

Check with automotive electrical shops. My local one makes cables to any spec you desire. They rebuild their own starters, alternators, etc. and do electrical repair and modification. They found a short for me one time in minutes that would have taken me hours.

I posted a wanted in classifieds. But if you're like me you don't go there much. Looking for a set of center caps for 2003-2012 2500 or 3500 trucks. Not dually.

Get a ScanGauge and gives you a second indicator of miles to empty. You've also got the trip meter which is another indicator of fuel usage. That bean diesel sump is looking better all the time. Running the VP dry is another nail in its coffin. Make sure to run the 2 cycle oil to keep it happy.

Good to hear 4ever. I did mine about the same time.

Wondering from what date forward for the new and improved AirDogs ?

Awesome. Chalk another one up to mopar1973man.com.

First full tank and fillup with the ScanGuage. Best hand calculated fuel economy I've seen for a work week. Typical route and hauling conditions. Biggest increase in MPG is from staying out of overdrive. I've not yet had the opportunity to do any 65 MPH freeway driving yet, but on country roads staying out of OD gives me significantly better mileage. Question is...is there a downside mechanically to adjusting my driving habits to not using OD unless on downhill grades or speeds over 55? I am seeing 2,250 RPM's at 55 in lockup (4th gear if you will, 1:1 gear ratio). Before I'd lug through in OD to keep engine RPM's lower. Thinking that was better for the drivetrain, but it means at least 5 MPG difference.

My hip is bone on bone. Doubt that diet will change that. Now if you said that prayer could help, I could not argue with that. God can do amazing things. But I figure he gave us doctors and that's how he will help. I have a friend who had 3 months to live with prostrate cancer. Through prayer and dedication of the rest of his life to salvation work he is cancer free. He committed the rest of his life for however long that is. That was 5 years ago. He's a Gideon and saving souls is his life cause.

My wife and I are back on our diet. Lost 18# in a couple months. Need to loose 45# before they'll do my hip surgery.

I took care of your multiple posts. That way all replys will be in one location. You should get some help soon.

My average speed this tank of fuel was 29. One reason my mileage is low. Far from freeway driving.

My average speed this tank of fuel was 29. One reason my mileage is low. Far from freeway driving.

Found a scale today. Front axle 4250 Rear axle 4100 Trailer axle 2150 Total 10,500 normal work total weight.

I bet I've got a multitude of problems. One speaker with no continuity, one cutting in and out(bet bad wire). Good news is that for less than the cost of a driving while on a cell phone I've got a new stereo with Bluetooth function for hands free talking. Plus will play all my music and has a CD player. Just had cassette before.

I think you should get truck of the month!