KATOOM

Unfortunately I haven't found any used tractor/backhoe's larger than around 25 - 30 hp for $15k in a compact farm tractor.....but you've definitely given me something to think about.

The lack of a PTO and three point is a valid point..... Not sure how many attachments I'd ever acquire but ya never know. Again, my biggest concern is not only the size of the Case but the lack of size in most anything else out there for reasonable prices. It would be nice to have something I can load on a regular flat bed.....but would be terrible if I found out that removing a tree stump took hours instead of minutes. Never did I think this would be such a hard decision.

I dont live on HUGE acreage but I do have property which justifies the usage of machinery beside a shovel and manual labor. Over the years I haven't had to purchase any equipment since I have a friend with a full size Case 580 Super D which he's let me use whenever I need it. Usually a week at a time or so. Well the day has come where he wants a newer nicer backhoe so he's offered to sell me his. Now the heat is on because I'm caught in a dilemma where I'm not sure if I want something that big since they are BIG (weighing in at 17,000 lbs) but I'm leery of its overall reliability given its age (early 80's). Plus he wants $15k for it which is about the going rate "I think" but given its condition I'm thinking more around $10k - $11k would be more appropriate. This all has me questioning a smaller farm tractor or whether I'd find out that anything smaller than this old Case would end up being too small. Because I'm being honest when I say its nice to have a full size machine when messing with full size jobs. Anyone with experience in this topic would be of great help..... Thanks guys.

The true point of the brace is in order to support the steering box shaft when subject to tires which are larger than what the truck rolled off the factory assembly line with. The added stress placed on the steering box causes shaft deflection which stresses out the shaft bearing and seal, eventually causing a leak and/or a sloppy steering box shaft. The other advantage of the brace is to prevent the frame from twisting where the steering box is mounted, which can add some play to the overall steering reaction. But again, larger tires are the cause of that and if the tires are stock size or close to that then its likely you'll notice any gain. Really the steering brace isnt for rejuvenating a sloppy steering system. Most likely if there's excessive amounts of play then probably something else is wrong.

Dont pay shops to align your vehicle unless its lifted to the point of pushing OEM component angle limits, or if you think there's other potential issues like rear thrust angles or maybe somethings bent. These trucks are very easy to align..... You probably could comb through YouTube and find videos which would simplify the process.

Unless I missed something in this thread, I say just send the extra parts back. Even if you take both packages and pick out the best of all the parts and then box it back up. But dont try to keep it just because someone screwed up. I give you kudos for even telling them as most people probably wouldn't have.....

Todays ethanol fuels are terrible.....

Either that picture is a joke.....or IBMobile is friends with Paul Bunyan.

I'm not claiming that every DW issue is a result of improper caster but merely pointing out that its a huge variable in the cause of DW.....and possible solution if applied correctly. Think of it like shocks... If your tires are perfectly round and balanced to the gram then they will roll glass smooth...until they come in contact with a bump. But even though shocks are only there for those bumps in the road, most people try to solve their tire issues with stronger shocks. I forgot to answer your question about the 9000's..... I dont adjust the fronts. They're always at a higher setting like 7 - 8. But the rears are easy access and I set them at 2 - 3 empty and 8 - 9 when towing heavy. Well usually only when I'm hooked up to the 5th wheel otherwise the chucking is bad. Hope that helps.

Caster is what determines the force placed on or exerted by the front tires (gyroscopic point of axis) onto the steering system and road force. By changing the caster angle you effectively move the steer axis farther forward or backward from neutral (positive or negative). Without getting more complicated than that.....when you move the steer axis negative then the tires steering response becomes faster and more twitchy. But when you move the steer axis positive the opposite happens as the steering response becomes slower and more lackadaisical (per say). By setting the caster on these solid axle trucks too negative over that of positive, the road force transmits back into the steering components as the tires become more reactionary to both your steering input and the force of the road placed on them. This causes excessive wear and tear as the components are forced to absorb all this. Over time the wear causes slight movement over tolerance and you can get DW simply based on the exaggeration of all the movements combined. Things like old tires will transmit more jarring force too. Moving the caster more positive lessens the force and creates a more "mellow" feel in the steering, which also removes some of the force transmitted. The best analogy I've ever been able to think up is shopping carts. Shopping cart wheels are negative caster and most of us have probably experience those carts with the wildly shaking front wheel(s). Definitely annoying while pushing it down the store isles, but the same event happening in your truck can be dangerous.

Not sure if I'm coming into this thread too late.....but just adding that I have Rancho 9000's. They've been on the truck for many years and work amazing. Love the adjust-ability for towing. Also, I cant speak for the steering component issues you may be suffering from but a steering dampener wont stop DW. Whatever is causing DW is likely because of caster adjustment in relation to excess component movement.

I've said it for years that I think the OEM Sport headlights provide more than enough lighting. In the winter my drive can include some very dark two lane rural roads too and I dont have trouble. Usually if I cant see far enough out then its because I'm going to fast, which in itself is a whole nother issue. And yes the OEM Sport high beams can seem more like spot lights than spread beams but they sure reach out there a long ways. My take on it is, there's always going to be something better.....but at some point you'll more than likely be straddling the fence of legality...and negatively affecting oncoming traffic who have to deal with stadium level flood lighting bearing down on them. I'm not sure who enjoys when other vehicles are coming your way with HID lights so blue and bright that you cant see crap in front of you..... Yes HID lighting is pretty cool but I have no interest in dumping loads of cash on something which isnt a problem "for me". I have other vehicles with factory HID lights and I do like them but not enough to convert my truck over to them.

JAG1 they all yours..... I'll pick up a set from DAP one of these days. Last question though..... The DAP website review says these lenses have a lite smoke. Is that true or are they clear? I thought I remember you saying they were clear.

If you're not using those new housings then I'd be happy to take them off your hands for free.....

Interesting..... Can you fill me in on the why's and what happened?

Bringing back and old thread just for an update..... Moparman, how are your DAP headlights holding up?

I thought Geno's had the OEM clutch fans.

Interesting. I'd be curious to see what exactly you're describing since I could see attempting this failing badly if not done right.

Thats exactly correct. I really feel my OEM Sport headlights work very well too but I've been fighting them yellowing for years. I've buffed and waxed them many times and even though they're fairly clear for their age, I wouldn't mind replacing them to bring back the brand new look. And yes, I priced OEM housings at well over $700. So these much less expensive OEM replacement ones Moparman is trying has me curious if they'll be just as good as OEM.

Understand.....But that's comparing apples to oranges. My comparison is merely OEM to aftermarket OEM replacement. If they have the same beam pattern as the OEM Sport headlights then I'd be more than thrilled, since my Sport headlights are very bright and will shine ample distance down the dark country roads.....

So hows the beam pattern look overall? I've heard too many times that aftermarket light housings have poor beam pattern and tend to throw the light all over the place. I hope these work just like OEM Sport housings.

Dont worry.....they're steadily working on doing something about everything. I'm convinced that the EPA wont be happy until we're all running around in Birkenstocks smelling of BO and dreads.

Interesting.....

dripley you're always welcome to eat chicken at my casa.....

Winner winner chicken dinner. I know I tend to lean towards conspiratorial type stuff.....but trying to remain calm and collected, as I mentioned before, I dont want my truck to fall short just because the EPA is mandating fuels/lubricants based on the most current technology with no consideration of anything pre-existing.