KATOOM

Pull the IAT on a cold day and check resistance. And just to point out, all engines prefer "cool" air but diesels do not like COLD air. Cool air offers a denser combustion chamber charge, but when the intake temperatures get too cold in a diesel then the combustion temperature becomes too low for complete fuel burn and power is lost. This is why its not advised to run a direct cold air intake in the cold climates. You'll only cause more problems and lower your fuel mileage. What intake do you have?

Wonder what your IAT is reading.

I agree. This sounds like an issue with the Edge.

Even though your tach appears to be acting totally normal, a little "lope" isnt harmful in any way and could just be a result of timing due to a box or cold weather. After installing my 275's I'll occasionally get a little idle lope.

Its not uncommon to read threads/posts where members are unaware of why their u-joint angles must be set correctly otherwise driveline vibrations will be a problem. I just ran across this 2 minute youtube video which I think does a very good but yet simple job of explaining whats going on. Maybe this will help some people out understanding whats going on under their truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aCK4Bob6a0

What does your owners manual say?

FYI.....you cant tow these 4wd trucks without disconnecting the rear driveshaft. Even if the transfer case is in neutral. This is because the transfer case houses a fluid pump which turns only via the input from the transmission. So towing will cause the bearings to run dry. I believe there's even a warning in the owners manual stating this too. I cant speak for any and all later built 4wd trucks so do your own research.

By no means am I trying to down play your concerns.....but what makes you think the VP is the cause? Didnt you just assess the VP was "NOT" the problem with the hotwire test? If not then what was the point of the test??? Seems to me that if this problem you're feeling is a problem enough to say its "undriveable" then maybe the cause is coming from either the PCM or the alternator. Have you tried diagnosing either one of those? Try disconnecting the alternator and see if the problem you're feeling remains..... Either way, I'd think you'd want to make sure of the problem way before dumping thousands upon thousands of dollars into a p-pump conversion. We all want driveable but given that your VP is painted "blue" and the injector lines are "red", I'm not being critical but just make sure whomever was under this hood did things correct.

Is your initial question about a misfire or skip what we see in the video with the tach needle movement? If so then I think you have a normal truck. Although I cant feel the shake you're saying is happening at the end of the second video as you hold the throttle at about 1100 rpm. I did notice that the exhaust is exiting right at the crossmember which will definitely cause a bass like reverberation which can actually shake the vehicle. Is there anyone else you know who has a Dodge Cummins that you can compare against?

I'll take a video for you guys when I get a chance.....but I dont believe thats what my OEM fan clutch does.

Did you resolve this was the cause of the vibration or did you just break something for nothing.....

The VP has its own internal timing/positioning sensor which runs off the shaft. So if the shaft is out of position then the VP will be out of time as well.

On another truck, I had the double cardan joint explode on me while on the freeway. Driving along at 65 mph, before I even knew what the heck was happening, the driveshaft was whirling around still attached to the front pinion banging like a sledgehammer against everything in its path. In seconds it took out the exhaust, bent the frame, dented the bottom of the cab floor, and hit the transmission but thankfully didnt hurt it. Then after that millisecond fiasco of violence, the pinion yoke snapped and the driveshaft fell to the ground. So yeah.....I'm a little gun shy and wont work on a double cardan joint. I prefer driveline shops handle that one and give me a warranty to boot.

Worth pointing out..... A properly balanced tire thats round and not dried out will drive smooth and be free from vibration. No matter if the shocks are weak or all other components under there are old and worn out either. Suspension is only there to absorb the road bumps and shocks are only there for slowing (damping) the inertia behind the movement of the tire. So if its truly a vibration as you described "VERY similar to a tire being out of balance" then thats telling me this is a slow wobbly vibration like a clothes washing machine on spin cycle. If this is the case then you'll want to explore a bad tire, out of balance tire, tread separation, etc. Especially since you've checked all other components under there and say they're in good shape. And also, a driveshaft thats out of balance or bad u-joints will typically cause a high speed humming vibration that will feel more like a massaging tool under your butt and feet. And.....they will only get worse the faster your drive as they spin even faster. Tires on the other hand can act odd and run smooth or wobbly depending on speeds and temperature outside. Especially a tire separating internally. As for driveshafts and u-joints..... I suggest having yours rebuilt long before buying new ones. New ones will be stupid expensive and may not fit exactly the same. Having yours rebuilt and balanced with quality non-greaseable Spicers will be affordable and work perfect.

Dad always told me "never sell something you cant afford to re-buy". Wise words.....

I would be curious to know if switching the EZ to a lower setting or disconnecting it helps. After re-reading your last post, I will say that I've had similar lite burps in the power when accelerating from a lower RPM range in the upper gears. And, yes only in the cold winter weather, and yes only after the 275's. But also pointing out, this is only under mild throttle. Never felt anything while being more aggressive on the throttle. Kinda chalked it up as temperamental fueling.....

You weren't unclear. I thought I answered you too but I guess I didnt. So to be extra clear.....the Dana 80 never came equipped behind an automatic on any SRW trucks between the years 1998 - 2002. The only truck you'll see that could have come with a Dana 80 and automatic is the DRW 3500 trucks of those years.

The Dana 70 was not equipped behind any manual transmission SRW truck between the years 1998 and 2002. Anything which states otherwise is internet myth. The reasoning behind that is because the Dana 80 is stronger at handling shock load from the manual transmission. That said, there was an option for the SWR trucks in the transfer case whereby you could get the NP241DLD or the DHD. The DHD is identified by the additional PTO cover too. I believe all 3500 trucks came with the DHD.

It doesn't come off but merely pops loose, so there's no way to be off a tooth unless it was installed that way. The nut torques back on at 125 lbs too.

You can take off the shaft nut on the timing gear and then using a puller, pop the gear loose from the shaft. The gear wont come off but with a mirror and a bright flashlight you can wiggle the gear forward and loose on the shaft and peer down to see if the key looks normal. Its not "easy" to see in there but at least you can get an idea.

I didnt read the whole thread.....but if I understood this right, isnt it merely converting a non-sport headlight into a sport headlight illumination whereby all four bulbs are on during high beam?

I'm not sure what I did with it.....but I have a video of my clutch fan too. I was going to point out how tight my fan clutch is when the engine is cold. Its always been like this too and I'd be afraid to stick anything in the way of the blades for fear of damaging something. There's times when I initially start the engine (at any ambient temperature) and I can hear a slight fan roar for a second. Sometimes it will even hold firm until I apply a little throttle too whereby I can hear the clutch loosen up. Although never heard on the freeway unless the engine temps lean towards 205* range. Been this way since new and has always keep engine temps in check. Even grossing 22k up hill in 111* summer heat on the highway.

As much as know the VP mechanical timing being off would cause the idle skip, the reason I'm leaning towards the injectors as the culprit is because 1) it gets worse as the engine warms, and 2) he mentioned that it began running even worse "after" swapping injectors. So either he's experiencing two problems (smash key and faulty injectors) and we're diagnosing its as one, or he merely had bad injectors in there before and swapped them out for worse ones.

Then there ya go..... I'm a moron for not reading his sig. NightHawk, your truck has the Dana 70. Case closed.

Unless you have a truck no ones ever seen before.....there's no way you have a 70 in that truck. The 5 speed trucks came with a Dana 80. The only autos with a Dana 80 were in the 1 ton dually trucks. The ONLY way it would be possible you truly have a 70 is if you bought your truck used and at some point someone either swapped out the auto tranny for a manual tranny, or someone swapped out the 80 for a 70. EDIT:..... Oh I see that 4500 was swapped. So do tell. Was the truck an auto before that? Is it a SRW truck too? If yes to all that then by bad for not noticing your sig, and.....you have a Dana 70.