KATOOM

Just curious but what spawned this on? Weight reduction or heat dissipation or looks?

How about on the inside area of the frame behind the running gear. Like how you and some others mounted their fuel pump systems.

Sounds like a jet airplane. This is the captain speaking.....

Not to convolute this whole conversation any more, but the best method for turning brake rotors is to do it "before" they've been used. Essentially truing them up removing all the run out so that they wear smoothly. When a rotor builds hot spots those isolated areas on the rotor from the heat will actually change metallurgy resulting in different resistance to wear. That simply causes the rotors to wear unevenly over time and the pulsing warp can work its way back.

The T post you see in that picture I posted is just what I had laying behind the barn. The straps I picked up at the hardware store. Really it was just an experiment I tried on afternoon that worked and I never got around to trying to make it look any more appealing.

The T post is merely strapped on with some regular hardware store screw straps. I think I used three of them. Welding them on is an option if you want.

I've heard good things about Hawk Performance pads. But when mine need replacing, I'm sure I'll just be picking me up a set of cheap parts store pads.

I didnt use "wrap" because wrapping the exhaust causes the pipe underneath the wrapping to rot from extreme heat and rust. Instead I used two of these blankets. Thermo-Tech I have two of them end to end. Here's what they looks like. Yes, one or two T posts is all you need. For that matter, all you're doing it adding mass to the exhaust pipe to change the reverberating pitch. T posts are just cheap. You need to remove the spade on the bottom and just clamp it on. I used one but thought about adding another. Never did because I eventually bought a new exhaust system.....and because any drone I did have at that point was so minimal that I just didnt care enough to add another T post. Here's what it looked like too. And before you say anything, yes did look redneckish but it was very difficult to see unless you crawled under the truck. Actually I never liked how the whole straight pipe job went and thought the guy did a sloppy job.....

My 5th wheel hitch rides along most of the time because its too stinking heavy to remove on my own. I have to take it apart in three pieces. I believe everything weighs around 250 lbs. Cant tell the difference if its there or not.....

I used to run a straight piped stock exhaust. The truck acquired a drone when towing above 2000 RPM until I strapped a T post to the section of exhaust where the muffler and resonator were originally mounted which reduced the drone to almost nothing. Overall sound was nice but tended to be a little sharp and rappy, especially when accelerating hard with a load. I now have a straight pipe 4" system and when installing it I specifically used all the available mounts and hangers so as to keep the pipe taught, movement free, and exit in the same stock manner. Because the common reason for exhaust droning is not only the reverberation of exhaust waves traveling through the pipe without interference or obstruction but when the exhaust pipe is allowed to hum like a guitar string from lack of support. Also, this 4" exhaust sounds much deeper and throatier and sounds more mellow too. And even though there is no muffler, its not that loud either unless I'm on the throttle hard, then you know I'm there. I also blanketed about 6 feet of the pipe beside the transmission to stop radiant exhaust heat from heating up the transmission and transfer case, so I cant say if that material did much of anything to reduce noise.

I have to say, this thread is quite refreshing..... Usually when anyone starts discussing brakes the thread immediately reverts over to how all 2nd gen brakes are terrible and converting to 3rd gen brakes is the only logical option. Not to mention those who try all the high dollar drilled and slotted and ceramic stuff too.

Exhaust brakes dont usually wear out and even require constant usage in order to assure they remain reliable. And I cant comment on the vacuum models verses the air pressure models either, or which one works better. I understood that they're pretty much the same but that when Dodge/Cummins eliminated the vacuum pump, the only way to power an exhaust brake was with air pressure. A small universal air pump is easier and cheaper than trying to configure an engine mounted pump. And yeah, I agree with Mike in that I would choose a better location for the pump besides under the drivers seat. But I'm sure its there to keep it away from corrosion given the appearance of everything else. If the reserve tank is large enough then it wont run all that often but in the cab is still not where I'd want it. I'd give Pacbrake and BD a call if you're curious about their differences or your options. They'd be the best to offer advice and suggestions.

I would suggest taking everything apart down to the perches and closely inspecting all components as you go. With it sounding like as you described, something is seriously tweaked.

Can you simply remove yours and take it with you to cross compare?

I'd be curious to see a video of this too. With maybe something like a streamer held in front of the inlet tube to show the back and forth pulse. Just dont let go of it.....

I've always said that its too easy to get a drivers license. Not only should there be much stricter training requirements and driving tests but 18 years old should be the minimum age as well. A 16 year old generally doesnt have the logics capacity these days. But.....not only is it all to easy to get a license, the states are plenty happy to hand them out to immigrants who cant even read the road signs. So when you all talk about the things people do on the road, well its mostly because no one has ever told them otherwise and our legislators obviously dont care if the uneducated illiterate people are out there on the roadways. Last time I heard, a drivers license was a privilege.....not a right. Any members with a CDL know exactly what I'm talking about too.....

The wire was sticking out of the rubber and exposed about 1/4". I pried open the connector and cleaned up the wiring. Then pulled the rubber cover as far back as I could and shoved the connector back on as far as I could and re-crimped it. Then covered it with shrink wrap and sealed it off with liquid tape.

Found it..... The ground cable from the grid element to the manifold had a bad connection and was causing an intermittent ground issue. Here's what I found. Because I dont think I could have found this little cable anywhere local and the corrosion was on the exposed end, I shortened it and re-crimped it and sealed it.

An update..... I left all three sensors laying in the garage and this morning they all read the same. So that said, I chose to leave the old BTS in since they're about $40 each and its seemingly reading the same as the new one. But because of how its throwing the code, it seemed more like a sticky solenoid in the relay so I swapped it out for a new one just to rule that out. I hate throwing parts at things but there isnt much I can do at this point. Well unfortunately the new relay didnt help since it threw the code again. Now I'm thinking that I have a faulty grid element. When I cycle the key, I'm getting power to the elements but the housing isnt warm. I checked the resistance and got some odd numbers. I dont care for my meter.....

Thank you.

Ok. They've all been sitting in the garage for over an hour and it's 55* in here.

Do you happen to have the ohms numbers for the BTS? I bought one and am checking the resistance of the new one, the old one, and the old IAT. Currently the old IAT and the new BTS both read 16.65 and the old BTS reads 17.31 at 20k in the meter.

My scanner isnt that in depth so I'll be changing the IAT first, then the battery temp sensor, then I guess the relays.....

Curious as to why you would think the battery temp sensor? I dont have a charging issue. I've checked..... Would the battery temp sensor determine whether or not the grids cycle?

I'll give it a try.....