KATOOM

The grid heater will cycle when the ECM registers 59* outside or colder. The colder the ambient temperature, the longer the grid will cycle. If you think there's a problem with the grid heater system then read this: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm

I think its really interesting that we're all thinking the same thing. I too was really wanting to try hooking up some sort of small fan blowing directly on the FPCM for a set time of about 30 minutes or so after shut down but its apparent that trying to set up something electrical able for such a task would be involved. Thats not even know whether or not it would do anything either.

ISX, I agree with you in almost everything you said except that I have physically (by touch) checked FPCM temp under various ambient temps, with engine running/engine off, and with the hood open/shut. When its about 75* or cooler outside then the FPCM is much cooler as well, even after any heat soak. When its hot out and I get home, I open the hood to let as much heat out as possible. It seems that knowing whats going on can cause more anxiety than I care for. As for Chips recent method of leaving the fuel pump running after shut down doesn't seem as effective as it sounds since the amount of fuel which is going to pass through the VP will be minimal at best. No matter, its frustrating to think that everything were discussing is merely because of lead free solder.Also, you mentioned not running an engine fan in triple digit summer heat and I have to ask, is that with the A/C running too? Because no air passing over the A/C compressor while the compressor is running will cause it to fail. Plus your A/C must really be crappy while you're not moving. But I'm sure you already know this.

Agreed. But when I talked to Chip, he mentioned someone else trying to move the FPCM, not him. The biggest problem we face with solving VP issues is that it takes time and money and spare VP's to experiment with. So the question is, does anyone have a truck to test on, a few VP's lying around that they dont mind tearing apart knowing that they'll never get a dime for them in the future, and the money to fabricate and purchase parts? Anyone?.......... Didnt think so.

It sounds like a leak in the return side of the fuel system. Baby power is a good way to find a minor leak since there may by only a minimal amount of fuel leaking but allowing air to enter which is causing the fuel line to drain.

I agree with both view points but I will say that yes, running a box will cause the VP to run hotter. The more aggressive the box, the more stress on the VP and the more heat it should create. Now whether or not there's enough fuel running through the VP to offset the heat created is the necessary question. I've also asked the question as to why the ECM can tolerate the underhood heat and FPCM can not but I cant confirm whether or not the ECM uses lead free solder like the FPCM unfortunately does. Just imagine how many VP issues would go away if there was some way to relocate the FPCM away from the VP and away from heat.

Great price but they want a $50 minimum order.

I've always used the Stratapore but they're getting very expensive. Not so much an issue lately since I rarely drive the Cummins anymore for economic reasons but it still doesnt make it any cheaper when I need one. Thought about Geno's but after shipping costs they're more money. Last time I bought one from Cummins West they were going to charge me around $17 but I said thats to expensive and I couldnt justify spending that kinda money for one oil filter. So they reduced it to just under $15..... Not sure what NAPA charges but I believe their filters are WIX. I also have a place that sells Donaldson too but I'm not even sure what they'll want either.

Awesome. This is what I was looking for. If someone can hold back an EZ and 90 HP injectors then I'm sure I may be just fine. Although I do understand that I may have to regulate to keep the clutch safe until I can replace it. I'm not sure how well that will be accomplished while towing since that's the main reason I'd like the injectors in the first place but..... Thanks for the replies everyone.

I'm sure I'm wrong but I thought that if they were listed as "RV275" then they were Bosch. Anything else would just have a HP rating.

$250 for 50 hp injectors and $284 for new RV275's from Diesel Auto Power. Not a bad price. I haven't looked around to much though so maybe you can get some RV275's for less.

Thanks for the offer AH64ID but your clutch is not the same as mine and wouldn't work. Plus, I guess if I was going to go through all the trouble of tearing the tranny and transfercase out, I might as well consider it the last time and get the right clutch. It was a nice gesture though.One of the reasons I was kinda even bothering with putting the cart before the horse is because there is some great deals out there. I can get a brand new set of RV275's or 56-60 hp sticks for about $250. Sure I can just buy them and not install them but that would be torturous.

True. Thanks for the help. I guess I'll have to wait for a clutch. --- Update to the previous post... Actually I understand that the stock 5 speed clutch had less tendency to slip because, even though the 6 speed clutch is a larger diameter, the 5 speed clutch has more surface material than the 6 speed clutch. I always heard from vendors that you can get away with a box before the clutch will slip but not a box and injectors. I was just kinda hoping that someone could say that wasn't always the case.

Not the answer I was looking for.....

OK then..... Let me rephrase the question. Whats the most HP you have been able to create and have the OEM clutch not slip? No point in having the potential to make HP but cant because the clutch will not hold.

I keep debating on whether or not I want to potentially screw up a good thing by installing some injectors to help with towing a little and possibly gain a mile or two. I have no intentions of anything over 75 hp sticks and I was even thinking of keeping it simple with some RV275's. But this isn't a "which injector is best" thread. What I'm wondering is how much HP has anyone put on the OEM 5 speed clutch before it started to slip? I dont really want or have money to justify purchasing a new clutch. So for this reason I have done nothing but if I could get away with some RV275's and keep from changing the clutch then that might work for me.

Took an RV trip two years ago and Missouri and Tennessee were extremely perty land.

Cool..... Got any pictures? The "real" Northern CA is pretty beautiful but I'd move just to get away from the legislation. "Real" Northern CA is Sacramento north, even though LA tries to call anything north of Bakersfield north.And we normally dont have such mid-western looking clouds around here as you saw in my picture but the weather's been really different this year. Very nice too.

It may sound weird but I get a kick out of seeing where you guys are from and what it looks like where you live. Maybe because I have this crazy idea that I'll someday be able to move and just aren't sure where that place should be.....Some of the places you guys show in your pictures are really something beautiful too. Here's a picture of my back yard during some winter weather. Unfortunately I dont have to many pictures of my "area" but I can assure that just because I live in CA, I dont live anywhere close Los Angeles or any actors.

It is interesting. It probably started years ago with some car manufacture unknowingly using the wrong term in their marketing.

Just thought I'd interject.......... Not sure why everyone calls it an "inter-cooler" when what we have is technically a "after-cooler". But if that makes everyone happy then thats fine with me.

Some years back there was a lot of talk about turbo timers to prevent turbo bearing cokeing but, for whatever reason, no one seems to know what I'm talking about. Maybe because some of the new fueling boxes have this feature built in them. What I want to do is build my own relay timer so that I can run an auxiliary 12 volt fan for about 30 minutes or less after engine shut down but I cant seem to find any kind of timer relay that can do this. There used to be aftermarket turbo timers which would run the truck for 5 minutes or so after turning the key OFF, unless you opted to override the timer with a button. Maybe there aren’t too many guys who have been on these forums for 10 years so and have no recollection of anything like I'm after. There seems to be some 2nd gen Cummins gadgets no one talks about anymore, like there was a turbo protector which used a thermocouple or tied into an existing thermocouple, and shut the engine down when the turbo reached a set EGT after the key was shut OFF….. but this isnt what I’m talking about.If anyone has idea where to get what I’m after or knows where I can purchase the stuff to put together what I’m trying to do. Thanks.

Because you have the FASS 150, I'm guessing that you are not using the OEM fuel filter housing, and have probably removed it from the engine. If so then the WIF sensor thats dangling and hopefully tapped up will still measure any moisture it comes in contact with.

For any of you who hate the dreaded "drone" which comes along with removing the muffler and resonator, I think I've found a solution. Or at least a way to tolerate it after the fun wears off.I took a piece of steel (a T-post I found in the barn) and hose clamped it to the same section of exhaust which had the muffler/resonator. The T-post worked great because of its shape, allowing it to lay firmly on the exhaust pipe. With three big hose clamps I snugged it down tight to the exhaust pipe. The difference was noticeable right off the bat. Much less drone in the cab. The reasoning is the with out the muffler/resonator in place the exhaust pipe vibrates like a guitar string which give off a "drone" or resonating. By placing the added metal on the exhaust pipe, it removes most of that vibration. Works.