drag racer

thank you, sir. First time out in 4 years last month. maiden voyage w/ new trailer.

Update: truck ran perfect for several days, and then the dreaded TC cycling was back :-( Rechecked alternator - still good, so decided to do another APPS reset. Runs perfect again! Since I don't have a lot of history on this site, the only things I have done out of the host of fixes floating around for the TCC issue are the BD noise filter several years ago, and most recently, re-routing the large ground wire away from the alternator. All my battery cables and terminals are brand new and the truck overall is still like new with less than 32k on it. Question for MoparMan or anyone: is it possible the APPS itself is going bad? Is it possible the alternator could still be going bad even though the voltage checks are perfect? I have no other issues with the truck other than the TC cycling - no MIL codes, no dead pedal, no limp mode, no nothing. Any other ideas? I really hate shot-gunning potential "fixes" and trying the other ideas like re-routing more grounds, wrapping wires, etc. without understanding root cause, but I am perplexed at finding the root cause.

Been chasing the dreaded TCC issue on and off for years. Started off with BD noise filter...it worked - for awhile, then issue came back. Found this great thread - checked alternator....AC current 0.013 VAC at alternator, 0.029 VAC at battery - alternator diodes good, but problem still there :-(. Reading everything I could find to finally solve this, and getting desperate as I am about to tow my new 42' gooseneck trailer for the first time soon and I cannot have the converter doing this and not locking up. Latest fix attempts - 1) did APPS reset and 2) relocated the portion of the big ground cable running right next to the alternator away from it (one of many fixes I discovered). Drove truck yesterday after doing those two things, and voila - back to normal . Not sure which one or if both did it, but I hope it lasts this time!

no - just went on using it as installed for the time being.

I am only familiar with the Banks brake, which is what I installed. Their kit comes complete with electronic and pneumatic controls fully integrated into the vehicle and is engineered so you don't have to think about it.

x2. 275s with an Edge EZ are a sweet combination without getting too crazy

EGR Brakes makes a complete swap kit for duallies. I had this kit, but decided not to run it after installing one side a few months ago. I pulled it back off, and did the Chevy wheel cylinder upgrade instead. First off, it is NOT a badly designed kit, but I just didn't like some facets of its installation and some of the parts it uses. It is very pricey and is known to require e-brake cable modification if you want that to work correctly; I was also concerned about master cylinder volume. Unless you are hugely dissatisfied with your current set-up, I would advise to save your money.

Peoria area on NW side of Phx

Thank you. This is a great board - don't know how I missed it all this time!

What you described from your friend's truck is right on the money for how the OEM Sports are wired. BTW, both the 9004 and 9007 bulbs are dual filament, so there are a total of 8 filaments with the Sport lights.The aftermarket harnesses from LMC and the apparently-defunct SUV Lights like the guy in that TDR thread I posted used do not work like OEM, i.e., both bulbs have something lit in both high and low beam mode. I read somewhere that Stern's kit works like OEM (?). One thing I am fairly sure of is, never will all (8) filaments be on at the same time unless some clown intentionally wires it that way.Anyway, I can tell at minimum, just from the wire count on my LMC harnesses that both filaments on the inboard 9004 bulbs are used at some point; one of them is never used in the OEM wiring scheme.I have only tested mine once so far with just the bulbs exposed while having my assistant work the hi/lo switch in the cab. It was kind of hard to tell staring at them bright lights, but I do know two things: 1. When switching from low to high, filaments were switched, and 2. once in hi, switching back to low did nothing - I had to turn the lights off and then back on for them to "reset". This was my comment about not fully understanding the design of my harnesses/relays. Are they supposed to work that way, or are the relays sticky, or ???.I've sinced moved on finishing the install on several other pieces of new equipment, and will eventually get back to thinking about these lights; that's why I did not put the housings back in yet - wanted to see if I discover something wrong that might be easier to address while the housings are off.

Just finished doing my conversion (need to put the housings back in). Went with the TYC lights from Headlight Depot and LMC harnesses. Normally I would go with the best, the Mopar OEM lights and better harnesses, but had a hard time swallowing $500+ . I would say the quality is fair for what it cost. Hopefully I don't regret it. They are definitely mucho brighter, but not totally sure of the filament logic with the LMC harnesses and if they are working right because there is no useful info. provided with them.:banghead: One major flaw with them is they do not come with fuse holders in the hot leads - very dangerous. I added my own when installing the wiring. A real good read on this subject here: http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?220386-Sport-Headlight-Conversion-(lots-of-photos)

Long time Dodge Ram Cummins maniac and member on another board. Keep finding this one when doing research, so time to join!