5akman

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Correct, the smog tech's at the shop I go to said if it came with a Holset, then it has to have a Holset on it at the time of smog or a turbo that has a CARB EO sticker showing that this replacement, non Holset turbo is CA legal. This is why I built my HX hybrid, bigger turbine/compressor wheels so a bit more performance but still looks stock. DAP should have some upgraded Holsets.

Does that HX say "Holset" on it? If so, and its a -35, you're good to go. I just passed CA smog a few weeks ago with a Hx 35/40, 100hp DAP injectors and Edge EZ. I have a Quad ADR mounted under the dash (extended wiring harness) and assume with the emissions tune purchased here I'll pass with that set up next time also.

I wonder if you put the injectors in the house for an hour or two and let them come up to room temp. I'm guessing the big O ring is not wanting to compress as needed to seat down in the socket in the head.

Yes it does. I also have my Quad ADR to hook up. Am I getting too many upgrades under the hood and I'm potentially giving my self issues?

The guy at BlueChip Diesel had me unplug the the center module on the firewall on the passenger side of the truck as some of the PacBrake stuff tied into the wiring harness going to that module. Between doing that and then unlocking my truck with the fob, I cured my crank but no start issue a few months ago that I experienced when I installed the PacBrake. Today I pulled in my code reader (no check engine light tho) and got code 1689 and 1689pd? PacBrake install/wiring info: https://pacbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/L5913.pdf

I'll put my code reader on it tomorrow although it doesn't show a check engine light.

Yep, it initially spun over and started for just a few seconds/died and it did this 5-6 times. After that, the starter just spun the engine but it never fired.

I posted this on the Cummins forum and thought I'd post here hoping to get some answers/ideas: So my '01 has started with no issues in the year that I've had it. Today I pulled into the paint store and upon returning to the parking lot, the truck started for about 2 seconds, 5 times in a row then nothing but the starter spinning. I could hear the fuel pump run and had 20 psi on my fuel gauge while trying to start. I called the tow company and was waiting for 30 min or so and remembered that Mike here on the forum had told me a few months ago, when I had a no start issue after installing my PacBrake unit, to toggle the lock/unlock on the key fob. I did that and the truck started right up! So, my concern is: do I have a VP44 pump on its way out and the key fob thing was just a fluke or was it the fob needing reset? The truck did start 5-6 times for just a few seconds before it finally failed to fire at all. This makes me think its a new intermittent inj pump issue. Any thoughts? Has anyone had an issue like this before??

So is the "economy tune" the one recently dated Sept 5th? I was thinking that there was an "economy tune" and a separate "economy towing tune" as described in this thread. thanks for any clarification!

Did this tune ever become available for purchase here on the site?

So, I called Doug at Blue Chip Diesel first thing this morning and left a message. He promptly called me back with a couple simple things to try. After getting home from work, I pulled the center plug out of PCM as instructed by Doug and then went to open the drivers door. It was locked so I used the fob to open the door, put the key in the ignition and it started right up!!!!!!! I then realized that I don't know if removing the center connector fixed the issue or if it was as Mopar1973Man mentioned and it was the key fob. I replaced the center plug and it fired right up again so maybe that proves the key fob = no start issue? If so, how do I permanently disable that fob ignition lock or better yet, how does it work exactly as maybe its a good thing to deter a thief?

Yep, I just need to now figure out what get triggered when so I can determine what is NOT happening to let it start. I'm going to call Blue Chip in the morning and see what they have to say after doing their test and finding that it does run when hot wired. Stay tuned!

I've been looking for a write up on how to test the ecm but not having much luck. And, if the VP plug gets power when the ignition switch is both in the start and run position and, the WTS light comes on when expected, doesn't that prove the ECM to be functional? Or maybe just part of it has been fried?

And that is what I was thinking after reviewing the electrical schematic provided in the Pac Brake instructions. So, I either bumped a wire loose under the dash when I was pulling wires or there is something wrong with the ECM that just happened to pop up right now?

So, I removed all the PacBrake connectors including the data link plug, put the Edge Ez data plug in its original spot, cleared the code and still no start. With the PB wiring removed and original wiring restored, I did NOT get the 0753 code so obviously that was PB specific. With the PB wiring, I did not pull the C2 and C3 connectors off of the passenger side dash to confirm the wire color to wire pin location as I could not get the "four tap" locks apart to verify the wiring. All of the colors/tracer colors referred to by PB were present in each plug as anticipated. So, I have a wiring problem going to the VP plug I guess. If someone has a link to where the ends of those wires go and what the specs are in terms of voltage or resistance, I'd sure appreciate it!

So I made up some test leads and did the Blue Chip test where you disconnect the VP harness and wire two leads, pos/neg directly to the battery via a fused lead. First attempt, the 10amp fuse blew so I replaced it and tried again. I was able to get it running immediately and it continued to start with every turn of the key. I then replaced the harness connector and I'm back to a no start condition. I'm tempted to remove the PacBrake wiring connection by connection to see if I can get it to start that way. Any other suggestions?

Yes, ran fine prior to these parts being installed. I only had one rag over the turbo drain line and that rag is accounted for. I'm hoping that something like the ecm didn't get fried somehow. It tried to start a few times but the exhaust brake immediately cycled which seemed odd, then, nothing at all, just a freely spinning starter but no attempt to fire.

I've spent the last two days working on the install of a new hx 35/40 turbo and pac brake unit. Today I finished up and went to start it with no luck. It initially ran a couple of seconds on numerous attempts to start it and then just completely quit trying to fire. Details: A few weeks ago I installed a kill switch in the grounding wire of the fuel pump relay. If I forget to switch the hidden switch to "on" it spins over but won't start and throws code 1689. Today, the spinning but no starting reminded me of the result of the kill switch being in the off position so I wired the relay back to stock configuration to rule out an issue with the switch with no luck. I also swapped relays in the PDC but the problem remained the same. I get 20psi out of my lift pump but no fuel out of the #1 injector line when I spin it over with that inj line cracked open. I can hear and feel the frame mount FASS DRP run during the "free 25 second" pump test. I started the Blue Chip Diesel diagnostics but only got as far as confirming power on pin #7 in start/run and I did an ohm check on pin #6 and it appears to be grounding correctly. It got dark so I'll pursue the rest of the Blue Chip diagnostics tomorrow. I also checked fuse #9 in the interior fuse panel per Blue Chip. I have gone over all the Pac Brake connections and everything is done as detailed in their directions. I do get a 0753 error code however which has to do with a shifting into overdrive issues. I removed the hot leads from the grid heater and gave a short wift of starting fluid across the intake horn and the truck fired for a moment. I will also remove the 3 prong data connector that has the pig tail with the Edge EZ plug at the end. Maybe by removing the Pac Brake plug and going back to the previous connection of just the Edge plug into the data link connector will remove one variable....... All the normal lights come on including the wait to start light at the turn of the key. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears! I have to have this truck running for getting to work Tuesday morning so I have tomorrow to figure this out!

I should have read more and just bought the 100hp first and saved the 350.00 or so I paid for the 50hp versions. I'm really surprised as to how little smoke these produce. With your HE turbo and Quad, I'd think you're going to have a nice surprise when you get those installed!

I have less than 10k miles on the tires so I'm going to have to stick with them. I do plan on re-gearing to 3.73's. I've re-geared a few axles on my old Chevy Squarebodies and its not too bad of a job if you take your time to get the gear pattern set up correctly and not rush things back together. MoparMan, so by keeping my same tire size that I have now but re-gearing to 3.73's, I'll raise my cruise rpm by 200 or so. Are you thinking that even with considering the rpm increase, that I will see better fuel mileage or would that just be if I drop a tire size and keep the 3.55's? I'll soon have the quad installed and will be wanting to buy some tunes from you. The truck now feels more like my 500hp 2001 Dmax with built Allison transmission. That truck, even being a long bed, crew cab, raised 2wd vehicle, is the fastest rig I've ever driven. Its very light on its feet and now my Dodge feels more like that in terms of throttle response. Its sooo much cheaper working on this CTD vs that dmax however!

I have less than 10,000 miles on some DAP 50hp injectors but as many of you have said, always go bigger! I purchased some DAP 8 x 0085/100hp nozzles and put them on my stock/factory bodies that had less than 60k on them. A local FI shop checked out the bodies, installed the nozzles and popped them at 310. The increase in power going from the 50's to the 100's seemed greater than going from the stockers to the 50's. It has a nice little puff of smoke when you get on it from a standstill but is otherwise smoke free. I really want the power to kick in when needed up at cruise speed and I'm trying to pass some farm truck on the rural highway that is doing 53mph ( I call it the "slingshot"). With the 50's, I wasn't getting the quick acceleration I wanted at that speed but these 100's seem to have done the trick. I have the components for a Hx 35/40 in the garage (64mm turbine/60mm compressor wheel/12cm housing) along with a NIB PacBrake and NIB Quadzilla with extended wiring harness. I'm hoping to get the rest of this stuff installed in the next month or so. Since I live in CA, I'm limited to a Holset turbo due to smog check and I'm hoping the Quad with extended harness will let me get the Quad mounted in the cab, under the dash somewhere. Current use of the truck is just a 50 mile round trip commuter for the next two yrs until I retire and then a tow vehicle for my wife and I to use with our 25' fiver. It was 109 degrees today on the way home and I was cruising at 70mph/1900rpm/650 egt/6lbs boost with turnbuckled Hy35 and Edge EZ on #3. Does that sound like acceptable numbers? I'm hoping with the hybrid upgrade, Quad and some tunes from this site, I'll get better fuel mileage and be able to tow without worry about EGT's.

I had purchased some used Bosch's for cores, then decided to buy the DAP nozzles as they seemed really cheap (odd hole count maybe?). I took all the components to the local fuel inj shop, had them go through the injectors, install the tips and pop them at 310.

Will this tune be offered for sale soon? New member here in process of swapping my 50hp DAP's to 100hp and going from Edge EZ to the Quad ADR sitting here in my office. I want an economy tune (shooting for over 20mpg on my daily 50 mile highway speed commute) and don't need off the line power but what I call "slingshot power" for passing that slow farm truck that is doing 53mph in a 75mph zone. I'll also want to purchase a towing tune for towing my 8000lb 5th wheel here on the west coast where I can see elevations from sea level to Tahoe in 90 minutes of driving.

Will this new tune be available for purchase?