Lund1990

I don't want to use straps anymore. Just want a ubolt kit bit I'm thinking I'll need to change my yoke.

Had to pull driveshafts because I recently lost 5th gear in my 2000 2500 with nv4500. Rear was a tough one because the bolt heads were rounded off. So I am wanting to convert this yoke to use U-bolts instead. Does anyone have a part number for the U-Bolts that will work for this?

I had thought about that, I just figured if I'm able to visually see the values change on the scan tool that the computer must be getting the same values. I'll try unplugging the switches and see what it does. What are the values of the potentiometer that you use? I like that idea quite a bit.

Am I right to assume that the IAT temp that shows on the obd2 scanner is the same sensor as the ecm gets it reading from. I ask because if so this is very confusing as the IAT temp was 50 yesterday and the 3 cylinder high idle still was coming on.

Do you know the temperature that it activates each at? I have my code reader on live data and getting IAT temp of 50 when I first started it. And it still is going into three cylinder

My 2000 2500 is going into 3 cylinder high idle even when its 80ºF out. I do have the high idle switches bit they are set so the truck is getting its true readings. Which sensor is causing this?

Oh that's not a big deal at all. Can always modify the release handle a little. Truck currently doesn't have the grille pieces in anyway. It's my workhorse that gets abused. Nice having one that scratches and stuff don't bother when they happen.

So my 2000 started throwing some odd codes. It's showing a P1698 and a P1689 . No Trans bus messages and egr actuator.... But here is why they're weird. My truck is a 5 speed from factory, and is pre-EGR. Any ideas what could cause this?

I've been looking at some ranchhand front bumpers. I've discovered that they supposedly don't for the sport model. Does anyone know what the difference is and why it won't fit? Is it an easy modification to get it to fit?

Does anyone have a part number or place to source the bushing for the master cylinder push rod to clutch pedal. Can't find one anywhere.

I believe I've figured out what fbfs culprit is in this problem. I'm fairly certain now after chatting on another forum and doing some checking/testing, that my instrument cluster is causing the problem. What place is recommended in fixing these clusters?

I didn't bother with any of it. I just ordered a trans online, came out of Tennessee I think. This was like 5-6 years ago. Bad trans is just sitting around the acreage.

Just catching up on this. Thought I'd share a picture of the carnage i had on the day I bought my 2000. I didn't make it 10 miles before this happened. I was 90% sure that the hum was coming from a front hub assembly. I was very, very wrong. Ended up being that the tail housing was cracked and there was basically no fluid left.

Find a harbor freight for cheap tools and pull off the tail casing figure out what's going on. 2wd or 4wd? Not much difference in the amount of work tho.

I haven't stacked tuners. That i know better than to do. Truck just feels like it's got way more power with the smarty over the edge. Maybe I'll have to plug the edge back in. I got both of these tuners with my 2 2nd gens I own. I'll check out the quadzilla. Just have a hard time justifying the cost with the condition of these trucks. Although I may start cutting apart and welding in new body panels this spring.