Lund1990

Nope. Driveshaft was still spinning afterward

Haven't noticed a vibration. It had been a few months since I had the the driveshaft out. I keep it greased, but that u-joint had been kinda tight since the day I installed it. I don't do pulls or burnouts. (Tires are expensive af) Only thing I really do is get on it hard, but I never drop the clutch. I had my car trailer behind me (empty) and was taking off in 2nd. Had it revved up only a little bit and had let the clutch out nicely. It was actually completely engaged when the failure occurred. I'm hoping my driveshaft isn't ruined. Currently it is stuck in the transfer case. Hoping its just from getting kicked forward, but I fear it may have spun on the teeth. Haven't dropped the diff cover yet either as its been far too cold. But we're looking at 45º on Tuesday so I'll be under it.

I picked this piece up from the intersection the next day. Thinking it was possibly cracked already as I don't think it would have gotten t that dirty in 1 day. Also. I tried searching as a 3500 and still could only find the strap style for the rear axle

Was pulling my car trailer the other day (empty) when I got into the throttle just a little to get across the intersection, the rear yoke decided it'd had enough. So, does anyone have any suggestion on a good strong yoke? Does anyone make a yoke that uses u-bolts instead of straps? I have changed the front over to u-bolts but haven't found one for the rear. Dana 80 axle in 2000 ram 2500 L6 5 speed.

The time has come I can no longer put off replacing my tappet cover gasket. While in there I will be doing a re-seal of my vacuum pump also. Along with swapping in my hotrod vp44 from 98 cracked 53 block. I want to make sure I do everything I should while I've got it torn apart. Are there any other seals or anything else that I should be replacing while in it already?

What is this w-t ground modification?

2004 Cummins 48re. Drove it in the morning, no problems. Got in to leave for work that night and it wouldn't move. For some research I found that it was probably the governor pressure solenoid or transducer. So I replaced both of them. It still will not move

Trans was making funny noise. Tore into it and discovered pieces of a gear in bottom of case. SO, where is best place to source heavy duty parts for the nv4500?

My buddy is picking up an 06 2500 that has had an nv4500 swap. Had a dual disc clutch. My question is, will the hyd 1.50 from south bend made for a 2nd gen bolt up to the firewall. I only ask because the nv4500 was not offered in an 06 from what I've been able to find.

I don't want to use straps anymore. Just want a ubolt kit bit I'm thinking I'll need to change my yoke.

Had to pull driveshafts because I recently lost 5th gear in my 2000 2500 with nv4500. Rear was a tough one because the bolt heads were rounded off. So I am wanting to convert this yoke to use U-bolts instead. Does anyone have a part number for the U-Bolts that will work for this?

I had thought about that, I just figured if I'm able to visually see the values change on the scan tool that the computer must be getting the same values. I'll try unplugging the switches and see what it does. What are the values of the potentiometer that you use? I like that idea quite a bit.

Am I right to assume that the IAT temp that shows on the obd2 scanner is the same sensor as the ecm gets it reading from. I ask because if so this is very confusing as the IAT temp was 50 yesterday and the 3 cylinder high idle still was coming on.

Do you know the temperature that it activates each at? I have my code reader on live data and getting IAT temp of 50 when I first started it. And it still is going into three cylinder

My 2000 2500 is going into 3 cylinder high idle even when its 80ºF out. I do have the high idle switches bit they are set so the truck is getting its true readings. Which sensor is causing this?