uber racing

Need a little insight. After installing my new injectors, my blend door quit working. I found 1 vacuum line that I had knocked off the tee on the bottom of the wind shield cowl. I reconnect but the blend door still isn't functioning. I there anything else I can check. Also does anyone have a detailed vacuum line routing Diagram?

I've only put approx 70mi on them so far. However I do see a slight improvement on the mpg (scangauge II). EGT's are a little higher but to be expected with the stock HY35. My HE351 retrofit should take care of that. You can definitely roll coal if you desire. But a careful foot and clean as a whistle.

Yep. they were pop tested and matched.

About a week ago the truck started being a little difficult to start. I would try to start and have to give it a second set of cranks to get it to fire. Previously to this it would start almost instantly. No I don't have my fuel pressure gauge installed yet but do have a low pressure light on a Hobbs switch mounted on the VP. When I have difficulty starting I'm seeing the light come on a little and flicker. Never experienced that before. If I reved the motor up to 1200+ rpm pressure would stabilize. Now I don't see any visible signs of a fuel / air leak. I changed the fuel filter to see if that would help. It didn't look bad and made no difference. I know I need to get my gauge installed (waiting on the moldex plug that wasn't on the gauge when it was shipped) to really see what the fuel pressure is doing,but it does seem that I'm loosing prime? Any suggestions?

I'd love to see a write up. I always like seeing alternatives to the current mainstream solutions. Looking at the systems out there I still think the Walbro has great attributes. Although it seems the prices are going up a bit on them.I was somewhat excited on the Holley HP150. However it looks like the quality still isn't there. I've read (not experienced) the bodies have leaked on their owners relatively quickly. In my mind I believe a pure mechanical system like a MITUSA or Glacier are tough to beat especially since their prices are inline with their electrical counterparts. Just my

Well I finally got a chance to install my 150's from jkidd. My first time changing them out on on of these. Read over Mikes write up and went with out a hitch. I must agree though the lines on #6 are a SOB! Worst part was trying to get the nut threaded up again! After assembly bled a couple lines and all's good. the truck seemed to be a little quieter and idled smoother. Took for a little test drive with my PM3 turned off. It felt very similar to running with my box on PL5. Now I have to say I didn't ripp the thing but I did feel pretty good. Rolls a little coal if I nail it. Hopefully when I get the HE351 installed will be that much better.

I'm currently running this combo. It works very well! for DD I'm running the Smarty on PL3 (just to get a bit of timing) and the PM3 on PL4 or PL5. The Smarty adds a nice kick around 1500 rpm. Mileage is quite good (I think). The only thing I do encounter with running this stack is a surging with the cruse control at highway speed.

Just wondering for those that are using them. What source are you guys using to get you Baldwin PF7977 Fuel / Water Separators. Local, on-line, ect?

It's not too bad. I work in the U.S. so I cross daily. for something of that value I have yet to pay anything when declared. However even if they loaded on every conceivable tax and duty I'd still be cheaper that the ridiculous price I was quoted in Ontario! Now I don't want to start a cross border discussion here, and debate all the attributes of loyalty to ones local merchants and tax base but come on! Were not even in the ballpark here! Ok off the soap box.

Your right about that. Although new water pump in Ont, $170 , in Detroit $47 . On my way to AutoZone.

I tend to fill mine to the rim. I fill up and the border and typically pay about a $.30/L less. In other words about $20+/per fill up! I do have another 30min drive home after fill up so not too worried about spillage out the vent. I did experience that once though.

Driving around today and my amp gauge dropped like and anchor! Got home took a look under the hood. Water pump shot and spraying all over the belt. Can you say slippage! Not a good week for the Cummins!

I guess this would be a good question for Thracing. Where is good source for methanol in SW Ontario? I'm toying with doing a Water / Meth set up. I realize I can use WWF but would like to try some higher concentrations.

Maybe try again. Opens fine for me?

I updated the pdf. Should ba able to see all the graphs. Also checked out some of the other samples. Thanks

I do it through Amsoil which utilizes Oil Analyzers Inc. Labs in both U.S. and Canada. Price is around $26 prepaid shipping and packaging, or $18 with out. http://www.oaitesting.com/index.htm

Well received my first Oil Analysis report today. Have to say all looked good. There was 12K on the Oil and filters (Dual remote By-Pass system). Attached a copy to view. Uber Report..pdf

We've used "Gusher" style or "Garbage" types of pumps forever in industry on various types of equipment. They will take pretty much anything you throw at them. I would also venture to say that today's Gilmer belts are probably more reliable that most of the electric motors used on our fuel pumps. This type of fuel pump would be tough to beat.

I've been running the Amsoil Nanofiber EaAU4095 with the EaPF12 pre filter on mine for approx 11months. Have been very happy with it. This filter has the hole for the filterminder in it as well.

This is a great thread! I to am somwhat disapointed to hear about the quality fo hte HP150 Holley pump. It looked like a nice alternative.

Thanks. After much internal debate I went ahead and orderd the Vulcan big line kit from the Filter bowl to the VP.

Im in the process of adding some extra fuel filtration. Also want to get rid of the 6mm line off the filter bowl and upgrade it. could someone tell me the size of the fitting for the filter bowl and on the VP? Thanks

Is there a way an individual can tell which one in the driveway? Or is it trial and error or bring it to the dealer to test? There cheap enough I guess I could replace both

No ABS fault light Speedo works fine.