Everything posted by Greenlee
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Change to Limited Slip
Great, I'm not the only one, good to hear
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Change to Limited Slip
Well it is, You guys are smart and know your business on this Forum. It makes me realize that a lot of engineering goes into every aspect of what we do on a daily basis. Like most I thought tires are tires, you pick a size and throw them on and get on your way. I need a new set but as far as brand or size I don't know. The Firestones on it now lasted 50k which shocked me. I never got that kind of mileage out of a set of tires. My wife never got more that 30k out of any set we ever bought. She got over 57k out of the original Goodyear tires on her Buick. Things have changed and I haven't stayed up with any of it since I had to retire. "The Lost Years". Now I'm shocked how tires are better than ever. I want to find a set that are quite and will run a long time. A tire that handles the elements and makes it even safer to drive. I've got my homework to do. You have added a lot of experience to this Forum along with all the other members. Thanks
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
I can see how that would be a great way to go and I will try it if mine is clogged with debris. Smart way of doing things. I couldn't see the blower motor from the bottom in the past, went to YouTube, it's in the wide open. I'm going to make the rig JAG was talking about to lay down on so you can work from the floor board. I guess I will be able to see inside at the evaporator. I hope it's clean. Does the rest of the plastic housing all come down from the bottom in case I need to clean it out a little?
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Change to Limited Slip
Didn't see this, I don't need 35s then with as much rain as we have here. I'm a little slow on the Differentials, I should know all of this but I can't relate to what your saying. It's alright, I'll do some reading on it all. Man, I think I could cause someone to start drinking at times.
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
That is too much, where in the world did you drive to get this kind of debris from one end to the other? Now that was a job to get all of that out just looking at the picture. I think you told me that the evaporator is tied into the A/C system and you have to salvage your Freon and then go through the vacuum process and adding the Freon back into the system. Any way a big job if I remember correctly.
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Change to Limited Slip
I'm lost on this, sorry, the rear differential is one wheel pulling and the front is two wheel pulling? So in 4WD it's actually 3WD? This is another degree of education all by its self. Not dealing with ice or snow but possibly a 5th wheel way down the road would 35s be a good way for me to go with the manual 24 valve I plan on driving? I saw the thread on going from a 35 to another size tire, maybe I should stop and read what's going on to get a better understanding????? I plan on reading soon anyway
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
I can do that Mr. D Ripley, especially from inside the cab. I have a great deal of muscle weakness from the disease I have but doing little things is on the to do list. I lack the get up and go to get started on things but I am trying to change all of that with mild stretching and exercise. I think I could change the injectors if I could find a comfortable way to get to the rear ones. I know how to cheat using double wrenching or a aluminum pipe over the ratchet handle. A lot of things have changed but one thing I try and remind myself of is it could be worse and there are others in far worse shape so I'm thankful. I hadn't looked at any material about removing the fan so I appreciate the short version. All is good. That's a great idea and one that will make a lot of difference for me. One of the biggest problems is the awkward positions hanging out the door, it has stopped me from doing a lot of little jobs on the truck. Thanks for the tip. Didn't think of that one, I'll check it out when I get working on it. That picture says it all.
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
Fellows, maybe because it from the same vendor as the first one. I'm going to change it and I'll buy it somewhere else and see how it does. I had my friend with the A/C shop replace it for me the second time so it's the same brand again. I'll buy the unit and let him put it in for me and see how it does. I think the last time it was around $130 total. It looks like you have to pull dash out to get to it. Appreciate the advice.
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Change to Limited Slip
All four tires locked in the slush or slush and mud? Or all four tires spinning? That's pretty good, a good set of snow shoes might be the answer. Your secret is out now but I don't know if it would be an advantage here in the south. Do you think the 35s would help with traction in the rain? Driving the 12valve two days ago in a downpour and it has both tires pulling the rear end just about came around past me when I gave it a little peddle and you all know that a stock 12valve is not very performance engineered truck to drive. When I owned my 06 Duramax I would run it in AWD in the rain and you could floor it and it simply went straight, braking was the same way. It was the second 4x4 I ever owned, the first was a 59 Ford 250 manual on the floor with a big 6 cylinder in it. You couldn't get it stuck if you tried. So I'm asking a lot of questions to understand the Dodge and how to make it drive better and have good traction without 4WD as an option. Again, Thanks everyone.
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Change to Limited Slip
Thanks John, I have done that many times hoping it would get me out of the mud. Believe me when it rains and the ground is soft I try to avoid it completely. This is a great old trick that will and can help those who have never tried it. My 98 12 valve must have LS because on dirt both wheels pull evenly. Appreciate it. My thoughts as well. Had to do it years ago when I was a lot younger and able to change them out. I forgot who it was that lost his mind because mine is out there somewhere but when you loose your strength it's a constant reminder of how you have to adjust to doing things or pay for help. I've got a young man who owns an A/C shop here in Mobile and he's a extremely honest business man. Works on everything except transmissions. I'll get him to find a rear end or change over the 98 to the 99. 015Point9 talked about a locker, maybe an air-locker by Detroit. I did some reading on this before going to bed and that might be a good way to go. When I sell the 98 and see how much I have it might be a option. Bottom line, your suggestion is one I have used and is a way of saving money knowing the rear end is factory and no one has messed with it. I don't really know of anyone around here that sets up gears or has a reputation for reliability. A used Differential would be a good choice. Thanks What a great link with a lot of good reply's. A whole new world of mechanics. Who in the heck is smart enough to come up with all of this. So from what I was reading the Automatic 12valve has a Dana 60 or 70 and the Manual 5 24valve is a Dana 80, is this right? This house we rented also had a 48" cut diesel lawnmower and I got it stuck right off the bat the next day after 5 or 6 inches of rain. I tried everything to get it out of the mud. Got as much strapping and chain and rope that I had on hand to I could try and use the 24valve to pull it out. It sank fast as soon as I stopped, no way to reverse it or move. One tire pulling, so I used the emergency brake trick but it was useless. With all the weight of the engine up front and no weight in the back I had to call a friend with a 4x4 to pull it out and the lawnmower. Every since when I was driving the 24vavle I was cautious about pulling off anywhere that had a soft shoulder. It's hard to believe that you all seldom use four wheel drive even in the winter on ice. Of course I am running the stock tire size and found it interesting that skinny 35s with a smaller foot print add more weight per square inch. Maybe a set of bicycle tires would really put some force to the ground. I know, I know, dumb thought just adding a little humor. I don't know much about the clutches or if a single wheel differential would have them. It's pouring down here so tomorrow I'm going to get the number off the door and see if I can locate a tag on the Differential Covers to know exactly what I am dealing with. With my luck at times (don't believe in Luck anyway, just a expression) I could be driving one of your trucks and get stuck on top of ice!!!!!!! Well I am thinking and wondering how in the world you do it. When you say a Standard Differential in the rear is it one wheel pulling or an LS? Thanks
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Change to Limited Slip
Is it called a LS by Dodge? How would a locker help?
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Dash bessel removal
Man, that is great to know. Reduces a lot of time looking for a good plastic glue. I have used a couple of good 2 mix plastic glues. I looked at some ABS GLUES but didn't think it would work.
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
lol, it's that noisy or loud like standing by a jet engine. It has a rumble in it like the other ones did that were replaced. Maybe a trip to the salvage yard for an OEM out of a Dodge Truck would be the answer
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Smoke Control for A 24 Valve
That's what I don't get, how do you build a tune or better yet where is the information that explains all that your describing?? If you can build custom tunes is this something similar to an EFI Live, instead of a tune already setup to select you have a choice of building one anyway you want to go depending on experience and knowledge at hand.
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Too Many Rear NV4500 SEALS
I'll check the vent, I know the fluid level is good, right on the mark. I will be able to tell more once it's in the air and that will be in a couple of weeks. Thanks Thanks for the details and pictures, I hope it is something simple. If I can't see anything unusual I'm going to find some body that deals with the NV5400. The leak is very small. If it were me driving it I would have never replaced 2 more times until I got a chance to look at it and research on the Forum. Thanks It's good to know that there is one Dodge out there that is not leaking. Apparently it's not uncommon to have a small drip. There has to be a reason why because it should not leak at all even with a little wear. When it get bad I should be able to put a finger on the problem. Thanks for the comment My mind went AWOL a long time ago, not kidding. Hope you find yours. I saw some dimensions way back when researching the issue of the 5th gear nut coming off. Doesn't seem to be an answer for that so I try not to worry about it. You are right though, having the numbers to go by and check tolerances would be good to know and helpful. I'll look at the drain hole when I get it on the rack. YouTube should have some videos that are detailed showing the steps for putting a new seal in, I should look to see, it could help me understand all the steps involved. Thank you for the comment and advice I'll do that and I'm thinking the same thing that there should be some evidence of wear or grooves like you are saying. Depending on what I am looking at and how much time I have with the truck in the air good advice all the way around. Glad I'm not alone and yes it is annoying but the answer is out there just like the X Files. One day we will know.....maybe not. That was a good tip on the vent, didn't consider it but I don't get to work on these kind of projects any more. Hopefully I will find an answer to share.
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Smoke Control for A 24 Valve
Let me ask you both a question, are the tunes something that I have to create or can I find them and download to the turner? I don't want to push this engine any more than I need to. It's tight, it uses less than a quart of oil between oil changes done at every 8K to 10K miles. Are there any articles I can read that discuss steps increasing HP and what you need to do in between one level of performance to the next? It kills me that my brother sent the Turbo out to be rebuilt when it didn't need it, $700 plus dollars for new bearings, seals, and upgraded compression wheel. A little more and you could have bought an after market Turbo that is way better than a stock turbo. Can you still add timing with the timing mechanically advanced like it is on the Blue Chip? I guess it's been pretty good considering it's 5 years old and a ton of every kind of cleaner has been added to the fuel except for 2 cycle but in that 5 year period only 50K miles have been put on this truck.
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Change to Limited Slip
My 24 valve is a RWD and not a 4x4. I have one tire pulling and would like to change that to a limited slip so both would pull if needed. I have been stuck in the yard of a house we rented after heavy rains. I had a rear end changed over to limited slip by a garage that was supposed to be best. After parts and labor it was a shocking $1,200.00 and that was back in the early 90s. It went out in less than 9 months, completely shot. I wished I had done it differently. So with all of that being said should I seek out another Master Mechanic to add the parts to make it limited slip or find a rear end from a yard and go that route. Maybe as long as I stay on solid ground it will be fine. I had hopes of getting a small 5th that my wife and I could go on trips in. The 24 valve should be more than capable and even better with the new injectors added but I'm concerned about having only one wheel pulling. Any suggestions??? Thank you.
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Smoke Control for A 24 Valve
I'm driving a 24 valve with a Blue Chip Special X VP44 that has the timing slightly advanced to give it 22 additional HP. I also have a set of 75 HP injectors from Dynamite Diesel. They had to be readjusted to reduce smoke. I would like to use them but I need a way to control the smoke or fuel. I see a lot of members are using programmers or tuners for this reason. I'm not trying make a hot rod out of it just looking for a little more performance especially at lower speeds. With the timing advanced I have been told I can't use a tuner that has the capability to advance timing any more than it already is. I don't think with the 75 HP injectors I am going overboard and need special head bolts or springs to continue driving it. I wear leg braces and speed shifting is out the window. Some of the tuners on the market are pretty high priced. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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Loud Circulation Fan for A/C
I'm just wondering if anyone else has issues with the blower fan being so loud on High that you can't hardly hear inside the cab. This is the second fan and it was good for a short time and now sounds like a jet engine. Is there a brand that works good and is quiet? Thanks
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Too Many Rear NV4500 SEALS
I'm leaning more and more to keeping the 99, Added up close to $6,000 in new parts. One thing that I don't understand is in March of this year another rear seal was put in and it is also leaking. It's not a big leak but a little drip periodically. Where should I start looking and how do I verify an issue is causing this? Center Bearing seems to be fine. There is no way I can jack this truck up to get under it but I have a friend who has a shop that will put it on a rack for inspection. Should I try and find a diesel shop that deals with diesel repairs to take a look. So far the Dodge Dealership, a second automotive repair shop and a third repair shop that just put on new shocks, upper and lower ball joints, and a new radiator also put in a new seal. I saw an article that said get away from the OEM and use Felpro but some have said that it doesn't matter, Felpro leaks as well. I don't know if the yoke has been checked for any egg shape or bad spots but you would think who ever put the seal in would look at that. It's not enough to put another in since according to the receipts $550 has been spent for parts and labor. All during a 50,000 mile period. Any ideas???????
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I Need Some Advice
Thank you, I'll do that soon. Good place to start.
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I Need Some Advice
After reading all of these and thinking about the reply's I think it would be best to leave it like it is. Even selling the add on parts a little less than what I paid for them would be better than not getting any money out of it at all. Thanks
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I Need Some Advice
That's why I ask for advice, thanks. No point then in paint, waste of money.
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I Need Some Advice
I'm selling my 1998 12v Extended Cab Automatic. Mechanically it runs just like a stock 12v should. The first time I washed it I ended up with a different color coming through, it's called primer. Then I powered washed it and of course it made more of the primer color shine through. When I first got it the AFC box came out from Power Driven Diesel. I bought one with the gauge on it along with injectors and CVs. Still in the box in the closet. Is there any point putting them on to try and get a better price or just sell these parts separate? I can put a paint job on it for about $350 but it's not going to cover any or much body work (small places). Maybe just cleaned up real good and don't worry about it. The only thing I know that is an upgrade is a better valve body put in by the builder. I'm close to getting done with the dash core that was cracked and missing pieces so when the light switch is put back in it will stay there and of course with the bezel in place it will look good. I have put on about 7,000 miles in the last 3 years, it has now about 262,000 on it. Any suggestions?
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Fuel Tank Module Check Valve
I printed the schematics out on the wiring harness that @IBMobile was kind enough to share with me. It's gives me a chance to study it more before I get the parts together. I ordered the draw straw and parts from Eric on Thursday afternoon and was expecting everything to be in this week, I don't know how he got them here so fast, arrived Saturday. What great service.