CTcummins24V

Just got some codes on the dash... p0523 p0522 Both oil pressure codes, can I assume ALL I need is a new sending unit?

Just noticed today that the oil pressure is way high while driving and not really moving even upon reaching operating temperature. Driving pressure at low throttle is 60-70 at full temp. and idling is right around 60. Here's the gauge, full operating temp. while idling... Even before starting, the gauge shows 40, then after start up right to the 60-70 mark and doesn't move much. I'm hoping this is just the sending unit and not a bearing or electrical problem. Any insights? Thank you ps...I know I have oil pressure because I didn't tighten the turbo oil return line enough and it was leaking, I tightened a couple days ago and no more leaks.

Enjoy your new money pit!

The ball and socket wear out, so you would need a new one. It's a bushing at the axle and "ball joint" at the frame

My napa (stant) 190 doesn't actually hit 190. Over the summer it was pretty constant at about 188. This winter it hits 188ish, opens and holds 185-188 when i'm on the throttle, but drops down below 180 at a stop light or coasting. Previously I ran a cummins 180 and it dropped down too in the same situations. Last week, I bought a napa 200 t-state for a 6.7 and it doesn't fit, the flange is too big, for an early 6.7. I think I read here to get one for a 2010 or newer, which I may try...and my mpgs have dropped off

Ya I know, ev2s or evs are my next purchase. I'm leaning towards evs from other members saying mechanical gauges are more reliable than electric. But I've driven like a normal human being and no heat, fuel or boost issues so far

Just installed a genuine holset 60mm compressor wheel and housing on the WH1C, from GDS. I believe it was a 56/60/12 and now it's a 60/60/12. Only took it on a small victory ride but it seemed to pull better in lock up in the lower rpms and up high too. Already had a boost elbow and a 38 lb spring waste gate. I was wondering if anyone has experience with hybrids and how efficient they are for around 400 horsepower. With my current mods: edge comp, 60 hp injectors I should have around 415 hp at the crank and I'm done increasing power. No sled pulls or track time, is the 60mm compressor too much for 12cm turbine housing?...no gauges yet

OBD II port?

What is the most likely cause of the cracking? Excessive heat/egts?

Most run a performance module that has boost fooling built in, like EDGE EZ or COMP, SMARTY etc. For a thermostat, make sure it's at least a 190, or even a 200 degree (there's a thread on the advantages over the 180). An HX35 turbo swap is worth it for cheap, good experience too. Both compressor sizes are 56mm, it's just the exhaust housing is bigger 9cm(HY) to 12cm(HX). Not a big difference but it helps. For me, with a programmer, spool up is the same, you just gain a little flow up higher, pulls a little better. The HY is nutless above 2200 rpm, peak torque is around 1400-1600 rpm.

Awesome! Thank you moparman!

Update us after the weekend. If you can't salvage yours I can ship mine out, CT to PA isn't that far. I just got a used exhaust housing shipped up from Bauer Enterprises in York, PA today

The 4 turbo to manifold nuts should come off, maybe try some atf on them overnight, either way doust them with some kind of oil. I used a combination wrench with a hammer blow to break them loose, a ratcheting combination wrench works well in that tight area. Gillett diesel http://www.gillettdiesel.com/turbochargerspartsandupgrades-4.aspx has a kit, but you want the undivided gasket if you have the stock Holset HY35 turbo, Gillett probably has both options. Assuming you have the HY35, its's good for stock power and no more. You can do a budget upgrade for around $150 and get a used HX35, I got a used WH1C (same size as HX) for my turbo swap. For the price it's worth it, especially if you have to remove your stock turbo to test it anyways. I don't know if you can test the waste gate spring because the HY is hard-lined, but you can check the wastegate elbow for seizing where it enters the exhaust housing.

plug it in plug it in

I just found ISX's old thread about this from 2011 and the verdict is leave it alone for low end exhaust pulse. If gating all 6 cylinders was beneficial holset and every other turbo manufacturer would probably do it from the factory. There were some interesting points about turbulence and the HY undivided vs the HX divided housing. I will say this, the 12cm divided housing flows a lot better and higher in the rpms than the undivided 9cm housing. You veterans must be sick of hearing the same questions over and over

150 for a clean media blasted 12 cm housing. 14cm housings seem to be rare and at least 500 bucks, which doesn't fall in line with my "budget turbo", either does this broken turbine housing...but a 60mm compressor upgrade might be

My turbine housing is cracked/frozen and needs to be replaced. While I have the turbo apart, is it worth drilling through the center section of the turbine housing to wastegate the first 3 cylinders? Any downside? Thanks guys maybe it's gate the last 3 cylinders

I've got MOOG everything upfront, even the track bar, got about 15,000 miles on them so far and no issues...yet. Got everything dirt cheap from amazon, but I would check rockauto as well. This might not mean much, but my mechanic who specializes in diesels runs MOOG on dodges

I would recommend using a 3rd gen intake manifold gasket, which is metal encased in rubber, as opposed to the 2nd gen treated wimpy paper, same price too

TC shudder?

It's inevitable...

Good luck with a "quiet" free flowing exhaust...it's a cummins. I love my 4" mbrp exhaust. It sounds great and isn't too loud unless you romp on it. Straight piped will set every alarm off in the parking garage but flows noticeably better. I would get the 5" if I could do it again though, isn't as loud but is deeper sounding than a 4"...there's a 3rd gen that drives by house everyday with a 5" exhaust and it sounds/feels awesome!. My buddies 06 commonrail runs a diamond eye 4" with a 2 mufflers to tone it down for customers.

I thought all second gens where pre-emissions. IE no catalytic converters. So there should be a resonator then a muffler, both simply for sound

make sure you get an oem mopar/cummins belt or your belt will squeal, so I've heard. I put a mopar belt on last year and no squealing, with a tensioner as well. I've only had my truck for a year and only about 15,000 miles but I run valvoline premium blue or NAPA brand no problems, on sale for $9.99 to $12/gallon. get at least 190 degree thermostat, temperature is more stable and truck runs better than a 180 thermostat. Everyone will run a different brand, just stay away from big orange oil filters on the cummins

I smoked my stock tranny a couple weeks ago with DAP 60 HP injectors, edge comp and other mods (see below)...plan on at least $4000 for a decent tranny to hold that power, and that price is reusing the stock shafts...fill out your signature so we know what you have. If you have the stock HY35 turbo, that is going to hold back your power and sky rocket your EGTs. PS my daily driver was on jack stands for 2 weeks and now it's in the shop. My stock tranny functioned less than a year with the injectors and Edge EZ, 2 weeks with the Edge Comp and she shuddered bad and filled the case with torque converter clutch material. I tried to cheat it and didn't listen to the experienced members here, but I learned, a $4400 crdit card tranny bill, you gotta pay to play.