TFaoro

Let's put it this way... if ANYONE changes to 3rd gen brakes (brake change only) and loses mileage, I'll personally send @Mopar1973Man whatever it costs to purchase your favorite liquor. 3rd gen rears are just like the second gen. You use all 2nd gen parking brake hardware though as no one knows if the shoes and mounting on the axle are the same. No need to change anything other than rotors, caliper brackets, and shoes. No need to touch anything 3rd gen with respect to calipers or emergency brake.

Buffer zone in Denver traffic = getting cut off. When I have a trailer I just go below the speed limit so cars are always passing and there's no sudden stopping needed. You're right, the more weight you have the more energy must be transferred into heat (ie the brakes) BUT I could gain much more from ditching the toolbox, sound system, twin turbos, 5" exhaust, traction bars, losing some weight myself, etc. Rotors aren't going to make any noticeable difference on 99.9999999999999% of vehicles.

There is no way you're going to convince me that changing my rims and tires is going to net me 130,000 more miles out of my brake pads. Going off your article again, let's say you dropped 96lbs off the wheel and tire setup of your 1500. at 2lbs frame weight per 1 pound tire weight that's 192 pounds added to the truck. That's less than 3% of the vehicle's weight added. Brake pad life depends entirely on driving style with and without weight, and brake pad material.

I would say try Denver I'm just messing with ya. I HATE this place. But really I've never been in a worse place to drive. Your other HUGE factor is the exhaust brake. If it was free I'd say you should try it and see if you can tell any difference in mpgs, but it's not. When I upgrade I'll let everyone know if mine goes down at all. @Dieselfuture We'll all dream! Someday I might change my injectors out for some with a more reasonable size. Until then I'll just keep hazing.

This isn't a very valid argument.... so let's go on the high side here and say you gained 3mpg by shedding 96lbs(4 tires) Translate that into mpg per pound and you get 0.01325mpg/pound(4 tires) Divide that by 4 and you have 0.0078125 mpg/pound for each tire. Now if we take into account what your article has to say, you're around a factor of 1lb per wheel = 2lbs on the frame. A rotor is approximately 1lb per rotor = 1.2lbs on the frame. So we take the 0.0078125mpg/pound for each tire and divide by the factor of 2 and multiply it by the factor of 1.2. We get 0.0046875mpg/pound per each rotor Let's say all 4 rotors add 3 pounds each. (Not sure but I don't think it would be higher than 3) Multiply that by 3lbs for each rotor and 4 for the four rotors and get 0.05625mpg. That is so little in the mpg world it can't even be quantified. Floor the truck once and I bet you'd lose double that on a tank. Now this is a very valid argument for you, but for those of us who are stuck driving in traffic, we'll wear out brakes much faster. We may also end up using our brakes much harder due to the way people drive in the city. (Not so gentle stops) If we look at pricing, 2nd gen front pads are 43.99 each. 3rd gen pads are 43.99 each. (Napa OE pads for each with hardware) So with ~33% greater braking power and a larger pad, those of us who go through brakes faster could save money by not having to use our brakes as hard. Like I said, this may not apply to you, because you aren't in the city and you don't drive as much, but the savings "in theory" would be $14.51 per pad change. I like math

From what I've read, yes. The differences being the banjo bolt for the brake line. This is not personal information though so I can't confirm

Correct. And after some searching it looks like the pads have a larger surface area too

The 3rd gen can exert more torque against the wheel with the same pressure because the lever arm is longer with the larger rotors. Think of it like using a cheater bar on a ratchet. 2nd gen is just the ratchet. 3rd gen is the ratchet with a cheater bar on it. You can pull the same with your arms, but you apply more force using the cheater bar. @joecool911 I've seen many many reports or people using their stock calipers. If they aren't broke, run em! The pads, however I do not know about. I would run new ones with new rotors anyway.

They have a steel nut embedded in the plastic... It'll probably plow through the PSG before stripping any threads. That said, if a user doesn't follow instructions that's a personal problem

If the install instructions say what this PDF does, I don't see how you can mess it up. http://www.4wheelparts.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=BDD_1050201_INS_1.pdf&line=BDD

Try the difference between level 3 and level 10. That'll tell you positively if wiretap is working. 8 to 10 you might not notice much of a difference. that's why I hate wiretaps! Before I bought a stealth cover (new vp is why I bought it) I tapped mine by cutting the wire in half, stripping both sides, twisting a 6in piece of wire in with one of the pump wires, and connecting the three with a heat-shrink butt connector. Then I put a spade style connector on the 6in piece and connected it to the programmer. I had zero issues with that, but when the VP died I decided to pony up for the stealth cover.

There is still intrusion with the stealth cover, but you just don't see it and it can't really corrode. I 100% agree they should throw it in there as an option when you're buying the new unit. If the user wants to purchase it, great. If they want to just use the posi-tap, great. An instructional video on how to install it would be a piece of cake and prevent the user from damaging their equipment. As for not feeling a power increase, @BigPimpin it sounds like you don't have the wiretap connected. The quad should fuel at least double what the smarty did! It's a big difference, and I think you need to troubleshoot whether the wiretap is connected completely or not.

@Cumminz Is this what yours sounds like?

Beat ya by a cent https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Valve-Offset-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B01IPWOAOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480898820&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=feeler+gauge&psc=1 I prefer the slightly more expensive ones, but each to their own

Here ya go! 2008-RamDiesel-2nd.pdf

Just remember your receiver is rated at 10K I'm working on "taming" the smarty Starting at 50% I've still got a bit of smoke off the line, but it's very hard to get moving with the way off-idle is working. @Me78569 I have some ideas on this as it seems to be worst at low throttle input.

That's a pretty good sized load for a bumper pull! I'm assuming the trailer has 7K axles? Be mindful of your receiver hitch's weight capacity

Yes. I THINK mine started doing it when I put larger injectors in, but I'm not positive. I'm not sure if you were here when I ripped mine apart, but I completely rebuilt the motor, redid all wiring harnesses, new VP, 3 sets of injectors, new crossover tubes, checked for air in the fuel supply, and on and on... Still does it to this day, but it runs fine so I chalked it up to an angry injection system. If you'd like me to take a video just let me know.

I've never seen a 24v tack sit steady (like your first video.) Mine has that little bounce all the time, and acts just like yours. I really am not seeing a problem

Upload it to YouTube, then drop the link here

Can you upload the video so we can see what it's doing?

AFAIK I'm the only one getting surging. Not sure what the issues is, but it had something to do with the timing being too high too early. Don't be scared of the timing coming in hard. If you ever had a chance to look at smarty you'd know what I'm saying.

Does that rail pressure sound normal?

I don't think it was messed with... kinda hard to remember now though. Rail pressure spikes to 5K as soon as he starts cranking, and it idles at 7K. I'll look into changing the tune over Christmas. Another thing that may or man not be related: When he throws it in neutral while still moving the rpms bounce between 500 and 800 until he comes to a stop. Once he stops it acts normal. Think this is related?

I've got a resolution! Picked up another fan clutch today (under warranty) and put it on the truck. It took about 30 seconds for it to come unlocked. I got the engine good and hot using my radiator block trying to get the fan to come on, and it came on like it should. After cooling back down and a bit of driving it unlocked again. Case closed! @Mopar1973Man you should like this video!