TFaoro

This last weekend my dad and I picked up a 1992 John Deere 2355 with 3,100 hours on it. Specs: 3.9L 4cyl NA engine that makes 67HP. ROPS with a canopy on top. It was previously owned by the city of Lakewood Parks and Recreation. I was very pleased with how good of shape the body is in and how well maintained it was. When we picked it up it still had honey colored oil, new filters etc. The only thing that was "dirty" was around every grease zerk, likely because it was over-greased. I would prefer that over no grease though! http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/3/134-john-deere-2355.html This is the replacement for our two tractors we used to run the Hesston 4600 inline baler and 1033 New Holland bale wagon. One is a 69 John Deere 4020 diesel with over 11,000 hours on it. Needless to say, the whole tractor is getting tired, and it burns more fuel than is needed to run the baler. The other tractor is a 75 International 1466 turbo diesel. She's getting very tired with leaking front and rear mains, slipping clutch, and was leaking some antifreeze from the liners. It burns a crazy amount of fuel when baling, considering it has a 7.2L motor and runs at 2400 rpm. Hopefully it'll get a rebuild next year, then it can sit and be used only when needed. The 4020 will continue to be used on the bale wagon. I'll throw some pictures of the "new" one up later. If anyone on here has experience with these little guys and would like to throw some tips out they are welcome!

I'd bet money it's a straight through muffler. I'd look into a Donaldson, and if that's not quiet add an FTE resonator with it.

Precisely! My brother has them on every joint except where the drag link connects to the crossover bar. Been 2 years so far with no adjustment and it's been fine.

Not sure about the long bed 24V, but the short bed is horribly low in the front compared to the rear. Even with 2" up in the front, the rear still sits higher on my truck. I do plan on putting bags in the rear of mine so when I do get those really heavy loads it'll sit level like it should.

You just keep tightening the giant nut on the back side. Every time I've tightened mine, it's like a new joint.

Rests in the OEM plastic on the "stud" end. The back is where the new white part goes.

http://mrtruck.net/draglink.htm So... the ball rests in the bottom like stock, the top is cut off, then the white polyurethane is inserted to hold the top of the ball, then the orange piece to act like a spring, then the shims and stuff that go into the big cap, then it's snugged down. It's a good setup IMO.

It will come with a new joint, so no need for the Luke's Link. I like Dodge Off Road's bar, but it is pricey Have you used or seen the inside of one? They are not solid and do flex. They rest in the bottom of the original cup and the top is held in by a polyurethane bushing (I think its poly). Either way, they aren't stiff.

This can be a very opinionated topic, so I'll throw mine out there! IF you're going to use a spacer, I think steel is better. Just a personal preference. I'm sure the nylon would be fine, but I would be willing to bet the steel is stronger. As for rust, the whole frame is made out of steel, so I find that argument invalid. Personally, I would try to get a whole new set of springs. It would improve the ride along with achieving the leveled look. That's just my opinion though because I have 2" spacers on mine. Effects: Your front axle will no longer be centered. The leveling kit will pull the axle toward the driver's side of the vehicle by around a half inch to an inch or so. I would recommend getting an adjustable track bar, but it is not necessary. Your steering wheel will be turned to the left when going straight because of the axle movement. If you do not have the HD steering (meaning you have the Y steering) it will make your tires toe inward, so an alignment is needed. As for products, I don't think it matters. Get the cheap one!

Each to their own if course! The kdp wasn't loctited and didn't have a lock nut on it. We've all got rod and main bolts too.... one of those fall of your can kiss the motor goodbye. They are vibrated more and assembled with lube .... I'd trust my $7,000 motor with that nut there but not everyone shares my opinion

I think you're waaaaaaay over thinking this. How often do the nuts on the outside of the intake horn come loose? Never? That's how often that inside one is going to come loose. Loctite, locknut, and don't worry about it!

I've got a scangauge, and a quadzilla monitor. I'm guessing what the gauge in the dash is reading.

Here's what I dropped in the other day: http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NCF1105178/NCF1105178_0208984976 Looked like a quality kit and felt good when I did some driving with it.

NO!! The tapered surface is what makes the connection sealed, so there's no need and no point. What about where the fittings thread into the pump? What about the rubbers on the return line from the VP and the back of the head to the T?

I'm sure you've checked the back of the head and the metal return lines..... It shouldn't be backing off, but it is a tapered fitting (if I'm remembering correctly) keep that sucker pretty tight! You may need some sealant on the threads as well.

I see the same thing. It takes over 195 for my gauge to read over 195. Also, 188 shows like 183ish on the dash.

2nd head is closer to the cab, and I managed to do mine. I had to pull the valve cover and run a chain across the head very tight.

The edge is a pretty reliable unit. I think you would be safe either way, it's just a matter of preference.

Impressive change. It would do even more if you took it out and cleaned it

You get what you pay for.... South Bend is high quality. The grabby clutches are the dual discs and ceramics. They are made to hold big power, and that's just the nature of them. That said, I dropped a Luk 13" upgrade in a 98 12v last week and was impressed. The clutch looked good and felt good driving around. It would probably be just fine with a small programmer. My old transmission is laying on the floor, so I can give you those dimensions. It'll be from the front of the bell housing (where it bolts to the adapter) front and rear of the shifter. If I have time, I can pull the plastic and measure the actual hole in the floor.

This trailer is just going to be used around the farm, so not an issue. The gooseneck makes her sit nice and level, so not an issue

Bought a trailer this weekend.... 6K axles and uses a 2 5/16 ball. Needs some TLC but I couldn't pass up the deal! Sure beats dragging the gooseneck around for 100 bales

I used my factory stabilizer. Not sure why you'd need a new one???

I would step up to this kit: http://www.southbendclutch.com/13-1.25.html I am very biased with clutches and strongly prefer South Bend over Valair. I had a valair for a while and was not impressed. On the other hand I've watched the south bend hold significantly more power than its rated for, while not wearing out fast. The performance shop down by me won't even install Valair clutches anymore after he had to warrantee 3 of them. As for the need, a stock one would probably hold, but any time you have a power bump (TS-MVP) it's a good idea to go with a stronger clutch.

You need the wife to take a video for you when it's on and when it's off. Show us the lack of smoke!