TFaoro

Weird. You shouldn't have enough timing to pre-detonate

It's probably best you tow with stock power if your trans is stock! Think of it as a favor

That might "dilute" the metal filings in there. I'd wait until I have some run time on mine and make sure there's no issues first though. I'm using Dex-Cool from Walmart. I'm pretty sure you can run just about anything and it's not going to hurt. Just make sure it's not full of silicate!

Well, my passenger side was replaced at an unknown amount of miles, and the driver side is factory. 205K and still rolling with no codes!

Yes. Just like stated below, the inside of the bearings is open to the ABS. Here's one place I got a bit of information. Make sure to read through all of the pages and check out the pictures. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-non-powertrain/326190-greasing-front-wheel-bearings-11.html If issues do arise with pumping grease in I WILL disclose the issue. If I don't see any issues within a couple weeks, I'd have to say it has to do with your truck specifically. Maybe you should just pump that sucker full of grease... if it doesn't work anyway extra grease isn't going to make it worse. AFAIK the sensor should see right through the grease like it isn't there. Unless your grease is full of metal there shouldn't be an issue.

Snowball effect and I couldn't stop! After driving 50 miles to work this morning, the new water pump made a huge difference, but the issue isn't completely gone. Fan kicked on once in 60deg weather, which it never should. I'll replace the thermostat tonight and report back. It belongs to my dad's old boss. My dad told him which year would be best to get and he found this one in less than a week. My dad wasn't happy with him I'll find out tonight I've done a LOT of research on this subject. I've yet to find a single person with that issue. After my drive this morning everything was still good, so we'll see if codes start popping. If they don't this is a really good way to extend the life of the bearings. As for the gasket, I don't think I put enough RTV where the rear main mounts to the block. It wasn't even leaking enough to drip, but my bell housing was wet and I didn't like it. I like to keep it clean, so if anything starts to seep or leak I'm going to fix it asap.

Yesterday I took a drive up to Westcliffe CO with a trailer to go to an auction. I don't remember the elevation, but it's pretty high and steep (5200 ft to 9100 ft). @Me78569 can attest to that. I could hear a pretty bad boost leak the whole way, and the egts were higher than normal. About 1100 most of the ride. My fan was also on the entire way as the engine tried to run hot. I got home and decided to tackle the boost leak first. It was easy enough to find. The boot on the inlet of the secondary was leaking really bad. As I pressurized the system I wasn't paying attention and got too much pressure in it. The intake blew off and smashed my oil filter. So it was time for an early oil change. While I was at it I figured what the heck I'll fix the pan gasket too... Just in case anyone is wondering they are a real PITA. I'll do a quick run through here of how it's done and make an article soon. So, step 1: Buy all of your parts. I bought the pan gasket, some starting fluid, fleetguard oil filter, 3 gallons of Shell Rotella 5W40 T6 full synthetic, high temp permatex gasket maker, and some tacky stuff to spray on the gaskets. If anyone is curious I'll get a picture of the stuff. Step 2: Unhook necessary piping. I was able to leave my down pipe and charge pipe from the turbos alone, but the intake horn boot had to come off. Step 3: Loosen both motor mounts. I had to loosen them enough to allow the bolts to slide all the way out of the slot. Others have reported loosening them just a little bit and lifting the motor until they hit the lip but that didn't work for me. Step 4: Lift the motor. I lifted the passenger side with a big cherry picker and the driver side with a bottle jack on the side of the block. (pic was taken after the pan was out sorry) Step 5: Loosen all of the pan bolts and allow it to drop. This will give you access to the 4 bolts that hold the suction tube up. Take them out and allow the tube to lay in the pan. Step 6: Attempt to slide the pan out. If you have trouble with it hitting the axle you'll have to allow the front end to droop by lifting the frame. Make sure to release the engine before lifting on the frame. Step 7: Attempt to get the pan out again. If you're having trouble with it hitting the bell housing, keep raising the motor. You'll be surprised just how high she can come up! Make sure to keep an eye on the fan shroud to see if the fan hits it. If it does, make sure to pop it loose and allow it to hang. Step 8: Once you have the pan out don't touch the engine! Keep it in the same spot so you know it'll slide in on re-assembly. Step 9: Dump the rest of the oil out of the pan. There's about 1/4 to 1/2 of a quart in there (nice design Cummins engineers) Step 10: Clean all remaining gasket off of the pan, pickup tube, and block. I also wiped oil off of the throws and mains to keep it from dripping on re-assembly. Step 11: Once it's all spotless, set the pickup tube back in the pan and slide it back into place. Step 12: Spray one side of the pan gasket with the sticky stuff and slide it onto the pan. It holds the gasket in place while you work on the pickup tube. Step 13: From here I sprayed the tacky stuff on one side of the pickup tube gasket. Bolt the pickup tube back into place. It's easiest to start with the rear bolt and work your way to the front. Step 13: Put some RTV on the spots where the front case and rear main seal meet the block (4 spots). There's a very slight gap here, and I think that's where mine was leaking. It shouldn't take much! Step 14: Bolt the pan up. I put a couple in the hold the pan snug, then ran the rest all the way in with my fingers. Step 15: Tighten them up! Then set your engine back down and make sure all loosened bolts are tight again. Places I ran into trouble: 1: Twin turbo pipes hitting... I was able to fix this by removing the charge pipe between the two turbos (the one I just stopped from leaking) and removing the exhaust clamp off the back of the secondary. This allowed the primary to flex in just enough to have room. (pushed to the side) Problem 2: The transfer case was hitting the skid plate. This won't be an issue for anyone else, but the NV271 is BIG. I just had to loosen all of the bolts. Problem 3: I had to raise the motor so high the bolts were no longer in the slots of the motor mounts. They were a real pita to get back in, but a big pry bar will move the engine enough to allow them to drop. Next to work on the running hot issue. While I was under the truck I saw some orange... coolant. My water pump, which has less than 1K miles on it is already bad. It was under warranty so I went back to Napa. They gave me one that looked exactly like the original Cummins one! Hopefully it lasts better. I then greased all of my U joints and ball joints. While I was at it I decided to grease the front wheel bearings. Many people think these bearings are sealed.... which they are on the outside, but on the inside they are open! Many hours of research lead to my conclusion that they CAN be greased through the ABS hole. I added grease to them through the ABS hole, and kind of used the ABS sensor to pack the grease in there. It was pretty cool how I could feel the bearing going from kind of loose to tightening up as I added grease. Some might say this will aggravate the ABS system with the grease, but it didn't bother it a bit. I plan to stuff some grease in there every 30-50K and see how long I can make these bearings last. After that I decided it was time for a valve lash adjustment. The motor has been running pretty loud lately, so I knew they were getting bad. When I got the valve cover off they were horrible! Let's just say the intakes were over 20 thousandths (supposed to be 10 thousandths) Needless to say the engine is MUCH quieter now. My brother calls it the wanna-be Common rail because it's so quiet. I took the truck out for a drive and it's doing MUCH better. EGTs are down now that the major boost leak is fixed. It's also pulling 10 more psi of boost on stock tuning The engine temps are still acting a bit weird. It tends to pull up to 197 then drop off to 188. Then back to 197 then back down. I've got a new thermostat, so I'll drop that in and hopefully my cooling system will be happy again. All in all a pretty successful day of work. Now I've got a 98 12V (yes the holy grail... opening rear doors and all) sitting outside the shop with the clutch needing replaced. 200K of pulling miles still on the stock clutch! I guess that's how it works when you keep it stock

You can always buy them with a greasable cap as well. Even stronger Everyone has their opinions! As long as it works for you, who cares right?

Not sure what brand as the joints on mine were in there from the PO. I've never broken a U joint of either type. I'm putting well over 1200 ft-lbs to the ground on stock sized joints. My brother is putting well over 700HP to the ground on stock joints. Neither of us have had an issue with our greasable joints. Being in multiple design classes, the drilled out portion of the U joint decreases strength by very little. Almost all of the strength comes from the outside portion of the joint.

Every non-greasable I have pulled apart has been drilled in the center and grease stuffed in the hole, so im not sure if the strength comment is correct or not. The last one I pulled apart had metal pieces in the hole as well. That was on the side that was still good. That tells me the holes go all the way through.

I usually keep the truck looking good, but she's no pavement queen.

I did run 125's on a single that has lower boost at cruising speed than an hx35. The highest I got was 23.xx It's crazy the amount of factors that go into it, but I definitely would not be going over 100's with a stock turbo unless you're at a very low elevation. I could peg a 1600* pyro with 90hp injectors and an edge comp.

I'm guessing it's something simple like that. @stevens cummins, Pop it in 4wd and see if the 4x4 light comes on. If not, it surely has a leak or the pump is toast.

Huh, I must have missed it in your other thread. Glad you got the computer issue figured out. Looks like your temps are staying nice and cool. I'd like to do a comparison with ATF in my trans compared to gear oil. Not sure where to put the probe though because my plug requires a sealing washer. Might just have to drill and tap the PTO cover.

Still some ABS issues I see... that's frustrating

Have you sucked on the line? Could be one by the CAD broken as well.

Usually a broken vacuum line somewhere

Both are probably good, but I personally prefer the greasable ones

I think the two biggest factors are quality of spray and your right foot. I'm still getting better mpgs with my 300's than I did with the stockers. I did lose about 1mpg from the 125's though.

65 mph 265/70/17 G56 in 6th level road 7-10psi boost 60 ambient 550-600deg

Keep us updated

I'd like to keep the 190 just so it stays good and hot during the winter. I'm not sure what the heck is going on with it, but now that school is over I'm going to start tearing things apart again... I'll probably pull the whole front apart, clean everything, and do the pan gasket. While I'm in there I'll replace the thermostat and see if it does any good.

Not quite Mike's, but one of my own... The front cover breather runs down, along the bottom of the engine, and dumps out next to the control arm. The 12V breather dumps in the same spot. It was fine today... 193 all the way home. I guess I'll just see how it acts.

her phone must have done it automatically. She sure as heck doesn't know how to do it!! She isn't supposed to be posting this stuff either. I had just woke up and found two of my manifold nuts decided they didn't want to be there anymore What a PITA to get to the bottom stud at the front!! (screwed itself half way out)

Thanks! I'll go do some checking. Did you run your wires along the firewall and down, or down and across the trans?