Wild and Free

This has been around for many years already, the diesel drag racing crowd has used it for at least 6-7 years or more. Has been nown as the MITUSA pump set up. Opie has sold the kit for as long at least 6-7 years already. http://www.opieparts.com/Products.htm

One doesn't generally balance the crankshaft but it depends on how you plan to use it and in what rpm range. It is most common to balance the weight of the pistons and rods together.

Trade it in on a newer one with the MDS system and 390HP.

Neighbor state of North Dakota, West of Bismarck Mandan area.I was just through Great Falls on Amtrak in July going to and from Seattle/Portland areas.

Well I have started to Mod my 2010 and most recently I added a Ranch Hand Summit full front bumper replacement and I also put on the optional front receiver with it. Along with that I added a Top gun Customz 2.5 inch leveling kit that included .75 rear coil spacers. I measured from the center of the front wheel hub to the bottom edge of the fender and after a couple weeks with the new bumper it dropped 1/2 inch and after the leveling kit and a couple hundred miles to settle everything in and after an alignment I gained exactly 2 inches over stock on the front. I also added an Access bed cover and a rear receiver hitch. On order are factory front axle and t-case skid plates and tow hook kit. It now looks like a 4X4 and doesn't have that belly dragger look. It still has a very slight noticable rake to the front yet which is what I like, I don't like when the front sits higher than the back or even too level. And it passed the biggest test of all, My wife likes the look and feel better too, she always said the front felt like it could drag on the ground.http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=213&d=1344879950 http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212&d=1344879872 http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=214&d=1344880044

Welcome, what part of that big ol state do you call home?

All the other replys are good but lets stick with the simple first.Pull the brake drums and see what the brake pads and drums look like and then you will see if there is any oil leak starting at an outer wheel bearing.Much like u-joints they can make noise in one direction but load them up in the opposite direction and they will not make a sound.

The hanger/carrier bearing is mounted in rubber.

Can still see through it and has actual honey color yet so that indicates its not too bad yet. If it was burned you would have to plug your nose at 100 yards away. Burned Gear lube is about the most pewtred smell you can think of.:sick:If you have a failure bad enough to burn the diff gear lube "Leaving extreme Over loaded payload towing and lack of maintenance out of the equation" you would have noticed issues a long time ago.I am not ruling anything out but usually diff failures or bearing failures will let you know via howling sounds or growling if it gets severe enough, I have never heard a diff make a squeak sound unless it had little to no oil left in it.

Having worked at a shop for a few years that specialized in driveline components I have to say that the non greasable zerks are the best for a couple reasons, They tend to last longer and they are stronger because they do not have a weakened body of a grease galley drilled through the middle of them.Non greasable Spicers are the best in automotive applications hands down.

I would check the u-joints and carrier bearing on the drivelines first before pulling covers. Generally you will not get a squeak out of the internal diff area. It is normal to have a little bit of fine silt like metal on the diff magnet.

When I read the title of the thread I was thinking about the latest police state tyranny I read about a couple days ago. http://www.infowars.com/ministry-of-homeland-security-rolls-out-armored-vechiles/ http://www.infowars.com/hundreds-of-tanks-moving-through-burbank-california-without-desert-camouflage/

Back to what could have broke the cam ring, To explain hydro lock is when there is too much other stuff wether it be a vapor from ether or a liquid from a bad injector or coolant from a cracked head or bad head gasket fills the compression chamber and it can not compress it and the valves try to open against this and can not causing the damage.I am also thinking one of two things as well an oversped and or a valve broke or dropped and caused it to happen. If all of them are bent I would pull the head and look for other signs of damage like broken valves and valve to piston contact.

Misadjusted valves can cause it as well as engine overspeed. Ether is always a good one for that if it was overloaded with it, I have seen ether be the culprit many times, basically has the same effect as hydrolocking.Does he have any engine modifications we need to know about like Methanol or propane injection or higher rpm governor springs ect?

So what happened to the engine to need to be replaced? Smoke all the bearings when he ran it out of oil? Yes a plugged air filter will fail a turbo. I have explained before to think of a vacuum cleaner to help think of how it happens. When you plug the hose on the vacuum cleaner motor speeds up due to a lack of air to pump thus creating a negative pressure because of no load anymore, the same is true with a turbo, take away its air supply caused by a dirty plugged air filter and feed it lots of hot exhaust and it overspeeds and dynamits itself.

:thumbup2:Glastrons are nice boats"Don't rule out Sea Ray boats if still shopping", You have just eliminated the outboards from the discussion then knowing what you are looking at. Once you get to a cuddy cabin style runabout boat you are mostly into I/O units then. And based on the year boat you are looking for it should be fuel injected so No worries then from here out just buy what you like and enjoy it.

Don't keep us hanging John, Help us out with some more details on what kind and approximate size of boat you are looking for and what the primnary use will be and if it will be salt or fresh wster use. These are major questions that will help narrow down the conversation.

10-20 years ago this thought process was right on, not even close now days. Not sure where you get the inboard engines being easier to work on "Other than being a general automotive based engine" you can't get to anything on them without standing on your head and having a small child close by get what you dropped "This again is talking about then general sport runabout class boats". Modern 4 stroke outboards are not even close to being comparible to I/O units as far as economy goes the new four stroke outboards are far superior. Taxes storage ect ect all depend on where you live. Here in ND there are no taxes for owning a boat and they are a heck of a lot cheaper to insure "My 22' 2011 Bennington pontoon with 4 stroke Yamaha 150 is $450/year full coverage" and license is $30 for 2 years" than my vehicles and I don't live in a cramped town so storage is not an issue,I have several places for inside storage. As far as gas it is pump gas at my local station because I trailer to where I boat every day marina gas is about 5-10 cents more here. I have had 5 Sea Doo PWC units over the years and had 2 new pontoons in the last 5 years and the pontoon has been a lot cheaper to own and operate overall than the PWC's "Excluding purchace price":tongue:.

ROGAN had some good info. Inboards are usually Inline 4 cylinders V-6 or V-8 engines based off of GM or Ford in most cases. Usually heavier and use more fuel and are harder to work on due to the space they are crammed into on runabout sport boats. Depending on use and age the carburated engines can develop more maintenance issues than fuel injected engines. They can be more fussy when hot ect. Just my preference is to stick with a 4 stroke outboard. Power to weight ratio is better, ease of maintenance, lighter, more room inside boat, better fuel economy. But then again you didn't answer what style or type of boat your are thinking of. That will decide what your choices are in engines as well.

Find a boat you like with a four stroke fuel injected engine and we can go from there.:thumbup2:Stay away from 2 strokes as a lot of states have banned them and to eliminate a lot of maintenance and headaches go with one that is new enough to be fuel injected.Any discussion past this will just turn into a brand A is better than brand X thread.What type or style and how big of a boat are you looking for? This will help the discussion as well.

Thanks I forgot to mention the bottom saddle plate as well and the U-bolts will work now that I think about it but the upper plate is longer due to the larger diameter axle tube.

The DRB measures shift time in milliseconds and calculates from there. Some super companies are Dave Goerend at the top and I like Suncoast as well as DTT but there are a lot of lesser knowns that are good as well. But I would match companies and as far as pairing a good converter with a valve body I would go with the above mentioned for a better performing tranny.Remember that a converter is only as good as the valvebody feeding it. A stock converter will last a lot longer with a better valvebody with more flow and pressure.

No need for a rebuild, Just find a company you are comfortable with and get a good single disc and a Valvebody upgrade otherwise the better TC is useless without better pressure and flow from the VB.I would take it to a dealership before throwing money at it though and pay for an hour of labor and have them hook up the DRB and see if it is truely the TC or if you have a clutch pack slipping. They can tell exactly how worn every clutch pack is during a test drive with the dealer tooling.

You can swap them easily. The Dana 80 swap will require the driveline to be shortened 1 inch or just take the driveline from the donor rig. Then you will need the u-bolts and upper u-bolt plates from the D80 donor as the axle tube diameter is larger on the 80 and the u-bolts from the 80 are a bit wider and thus require the wider u-bolt plates that sit on top of the spring pack. Other than that it is a direct swap.I know because I did the swap on my 02.As far as the disc brake comment, only the 01.5 and 02 rigs came with disc brakes.

And I thought you had something to worry about! That is hard packed wet sand. The sand I have to drive in is extremely dry, soft and fluffy. just walking in it you sink in up to your ankles, that wouldn't even come close to needing any special attention or adjustment in my book.