Hawkez

Pretty simple. I bought the fuel boss from GDP and they have detailed insructions. You can read through those instructions on their web site. It was a two hour install for me.

You could always put the money in a Fuel Boss. I don't see any pressure fluctuations with my mechanical pump. Idle and WOT are the same, as stead 17 PSI. My supply line coming from the tank to under the driver's seat is stock. From there it is 3/8 to the Fuel Boss and then on to the IP.

Wow, this has really helped me as I have no experience with the clamps. Thanks for the replies...now to be the wife for money.

I am in need of a new exhaust from the turbo back to the tail pipe. I have been looking online at exhaust kits that appear to assemble with clamps. Or I could spend a little extra money and pay a muffler shop to put on a custom exhaust with not need of a segmented system. Are the do it yourself kits worth it? I worry that they may be more prone to coming apart and creating more problems. I like the idea of having an exhaust that is welded together, however, I don't have access to one. I wouldn't mind putting it on myself especially if it saved me money, but I don't want to be doing this every other year. Thoughts/Recommendations?

I'm pretty sure that is what he told me on the phone a few years ago. I do remember him saying that it wasn't recommended that they go that long but he wanted to see how long it would go. These belts are tightened like a serpentine belt, they ride very loose on the pullies.

I've never lost prime in my fuel boss...at least that was self inflicted. As for priming without a drill, I imagine that it would prime with the engine cranking. Unless I am wrong? I have a spare belt under my back seat and they are simple enough to change. Richard Martin also told me how long he has been running his, I think it was upwards of a 150,000 miles. Street machine or not, that is still a lot of miles and no doubt has seen extreme conditions during those years.

I spent the weekend with my oldest son and other extended family members ice fishing in central Utah. Despite the abnormally warm weather, we were able to get out on the ice. Saturday, the temps were in the low 60's, certainly odd sitting on the ice in those temps. The fishing was as great as we had ever experienced with each of us catching around 70 trout for the weekend. The winner was my 13 year-old nephew and his 25" Laker. It was his biggest fish and he couldn't have been happier. Here is a picture of my boy and a rainbow that he caught yesterday morning. The wind was keeping the temperatures a little cooler that Saturday. Here is my nephew's Lake Trout. Saturday we had some excitement. As I said, our temps have been well above average. Normally, this lake will have more than 20" of ice, and right now it is about 8". As we were walking back a buddy of mine went through and took a swim. Now, we got him out and everyone got off safe...and it is nice to be able to look back at it and have a laugh. I think his last words before breaking through were, "if it will hold me, it will hold anyone." As I said, the lake was safe for fishing and ATVs, but we had to cross a pressure ridge that was pretty soft. This trip will certainly remain in all of our memories.

I have the fuel boss and I have had zero issues with it. Pressure rides steady at 16-17 PSI whether it is hot, cold, idle, or WOT. Installation was a breeze and Richard at GDP was great to work with. I installed mine a year ago and that is only about 7k miles so I guess I really don't have as much time as others have had with their elec pumps. I have no regrets and would do it again.

If nothing else the hub/rotor assembly should come apart with no issues. I've been reading hint/tips/tricks online and it doesn't seems too bad. I need to find a place to rent seal seating tool or make something out of all tread. But I won't start that for a few weeks.

I got my new rotors and hubs back on. Bled the brakes after I installed the new calipers on both sides. The tires are back on and my braking issues are a thing of the past. Now I have small oil drip coming from my right axle. I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

Congratulations to you and everyone else involved. I wish the baby the best of health.

That was my plan, I just didn't want to do all that and then find out that I shouldn't have. Thanks

I am installing new rotors on my truck, hopefully tomorrow. I have issues with rust and really fought getting my hub/rotors free from the truck. If I use anti seize on the 4 hub/bearing bolts, axle nut, and extension lug bolts, would that cause any issues or would I risk those bolts/nuts loosening over time? The FSM mentions using anti seize on the splines of the splines of the front drive shaft, but nothing else. Thanks for the help.

Good tip. I am putting on new (rebuilt) calipers tomorrow. I'll take a closer look before I get everything put together.

Well that doesn't sound fun. A year ago Hill AFB implemented a program that any car on base has to have an emissions test, even if it were registered in a county that didn't require it. However, the older diesel vehicles were exempt. Thanks for the article, I would have never seen it.

Lynn, I'm in Weber County as well and I don't think there is a way to test emissions on the older diesels. I haven't heard of this but now you have me wanting to look into it. Don't take offence, but I hope you are wrong.

I haven't had any issues with an ABS light. One of the lines had been chaffing but there was no sign of bare wire. I reinforced that area so hopefully no future issues. Everything is ready to go back in and now I am just waiting for my new rotors to arrive. It was my original plan to rebuild my calipers, but after hours of trying to seat the dust boot I gave up. I can't get in no matter how much I have tried. The FSM shows a caliper with two pistons, my truck has a single piston and no matter what I have tried I can't get the seal to seat. It will be $60 for a new set of calipers, not sure that is too bad of a deal compared to how much time I have invested in trying to rebuild them.

I didn't have enough room to swing the hammer. I tried that at first and it only pissed me off. I'm sure there was a better way to do it, but following the lead of the guy in the you tube video saved me several hours of swinging a hammer.

I read several things on the internet and got myself worried about some of the hoar stories of getting the rotors off. The axle nut is 1 11/16", I used the handle from my floor jack as a breaker bar. Worked really well on both sides. The biggest problem that I ran into was separating the wheel/hub assembly from the rotor. The FSM says to back out the 4 hub bearing bolts out 1/4" and then tap them with a hammer to break them free. Holy Crap! that was a huge waste of time. Frustrated, I came in and after a google or two I came across this video. These guys use a 1/2" X 4" extension and wedge it in the wheel assembly. They then use the power steering to press against to bolts and separate the units. It worked like a CHARM!!!! There isn't a lot of room to swing a mallet in there, however, there is plenty of room to hit your fingers with the mallet.

Thanks for all of that information. If it isn't one thing, then it is another.

I wish that were the case here. it has been too warm for anything to ice up. They are calling for temps around 60* by this weekend.

Thanks for the reply. When I put it all back together, can you tell me the torque value for the axle nut and the nuts around the hub adapter?

I have the 2001 FSM but there are a few differences between my 1999 and what is listed in the book. I am trying to get my rotor off but I can't tell if the axle nut keeps this thing on or not. To get the rotor off, do I remove the axle nut? Looking at what I have that appears to be the answer, but I would rather not remove it if I don't have to.

My original plan was to change the front brake pads. I figured it would be a good idea to flush the brake fluid before removing the calipers, taking them apart and cleaning them and reinstalling them. I started in the back and right out of the gates I hit a road block. The bleeder valve on the rear cylinder was rusted tight and it sheared off when I tried force it. Guess what? The other side was the same way. I replaced them both and in the process I sprung a leak in the middle of a brake line. I replaced the brake line and FINALLY got moving with things. I flushed the system fairly well and found a lot of sludge inside both calipers. They did clean up nice and there was no noticeable scars or damage to anything. The seal kit that I bought was the wrong kit. My calipers don't have the two separate pistons, it is just one large piston. It was late and I wasn't about to make a fourth parts run. The seals did look good and I cleaned them up the best I could. I would have much preferred to replace them. I put everything together and it drove 100% better. The shimmy was gone and I was home free. A couple of days ago the shimmy started to come back, slowly, as I applied brakes. Today, after I flushed the power steering I took it for a spin around the block and the shimmy was getting me worried and pissed off. I can feel the steering wheel shake and there is a pulsing feel--only when I am pushing on the brakes. I parked in my drive way and I could smell brake. I stuck my head in the wheel well and the driver’s side was hot, the passenger’s side smelled/felt fine. I would bet the farm that the caliper is sticking because after I put it back together last week the braking was smooth. There isn't too much to a caliper and I don't want to buy a new one, however, could this be caused due to bad seals? It is easy enough to remove and take apart but would I be better off just replacing the entire caliper? Oh yeah, exhaust. As I was under my truck farting around with brake lines last week I noticed that my tail pipe, right where it comes out of the muffler had completely rusted through and that last section is dangling on the hangers. I was hoping that there would be enough metal to clamp or weld to rejoin the two sections, but there isn't. I am sure I could replace the muffler and piece in a coupler for a fix, or would it be better and more cost effective to just install a new exhaust from the turbo to the back bumper. Any product I should consider?

Me...and some fish.