Hawkez

Hasn't there been discussions on here regarding alternators with "dirty" voltage causing shifting problems? Or am I thinking of something else?

WD40 isn't much of a long-term lubricant. I would like to give it a lasting treatment. The 3 in 1 oil was good for a couple of months. It just seems pretty akward to work underneath the dash. Thank you for your input.

I am getting tired of listening to my squeaky clutch pedal Every time I depress the clutch it is like fingernails on a chalk board. A few months back I put some 3 in 1 oil around the pin that the pedal pivots on, but that was short lived. Do I have to disassemble the assembly to adequatly lube this? Someone has to have a trick to share.

After moving the truck did you notice an oil puddle? I am just wondering if that steep of an angel would be enough to allow oil to flow out of the crank case vent?

No need to pull your hair out if it is the timing cover or the main seal. I redid mine a few months back and it wasn't too bad. I left my radiator in, however I had to be super careful when pulling the fan so that I didn't smash the radiator. looking back, I wish I had pulled the radiator, that only takes a few minutes and would have made pulling the fan much easier. Also, I would have realized earlier how plugged my radiator had become (because of the crank case vent) and i could have cleaned it then. Also, don't forget to inspect your lower hose, it is much easier to replace with the fan and radiator out of the way. Good luck.

2 cycle oil, an extra fuel filter and a belt for my lift pumb. And other misc garbage, of course.

So....did you ever figure out what it is?

I know that you said your batteries were new, but it may be worth the time to have them tested. You may have one that will not hold a charge and bringing the other down as well. I had something similar years ago and it came down to a bad cell in a battery. Sometimes it would start right up and other times it wouldn't, there didn't seem to be anything consistant. Inconsistant voltage can make electronics do crazy things and that can be difficult to troubleshoot.

Wasn't there a TSB that addressed the crank case vent and prescribed a vent comming out of the tappet cover?

Maybe a homemade Puke Bottle and Crank Case Vent.

I have the Fuel Boss installed on my truck which is also a mechanical pump. When I first installed it my fuel pressure dropped to 5 psi. There was debris from the fuel line lodged in the bypass valve. That valve is supposed to keep pressure constant around 18psi, unless it is stuck open. My fuel pressure does a great job maintaining that pressure without any fluctuation whether it be at idle or WOT.

What should the normal operating temp be for the NV5600 towing and not towing?

Sorry, the stock mirrors there were on my truck were not the flip up style nor the stainless style. They were the standard black plastic mirrors, heated and elec controlled. I replaced those with the flip up style.

I just put my tow mirrors on my '99 dually and I really like them. Compared to the stock mirrors that I took off, there is no comparison. With the stock mirrors I couldn't see much past "birthin' hips" of the truck, but now I feel I can see around them just fine. I do still have my stock mirrors in the garage, you're welcome to them.

I was recently looking at putting a fifth wheel hitch in my 3500. I already have the gooseneck ball in the bed and the thought of rails was something that I couldn't quite get over. I ending up getting the Andersen Ultimate Fifth Wheel Connection. I know everybody has an opinion on fifth wheel adapters but this is different. This puts the pulling force at the kingpin without inducing torque to the front of the trailer. http://www.andersenhitches.com/Catalog/ultimate-5th-wheel-connection.aspx. I know you already have your hitch, but I thought I would chime in and add my 2 cents. Good luck getting your hitch installed.

I pulled my radiator todnight and it looks similar to the picture under the Crank Case Vent Mod. So needless to say I wil add that mod before putting this all back together. My plan was to soak this radiator in a degreaser and then carefully pressuer wash it. I am hoping to find a plastic kid pool to soak in. Is there a better way to do this? Do I need to take a lot of care to avoid getting the water and soap inside the radiator? Thanks, Josh

I have only pulled real heavy a couple of times with this truck and both times my engine temperature gets pretty hot when pulling steep grades for a long period of time. During these grades I try to keep my EGTs around 1100-1200* but my engine temp spikes--getting real close to the 240* mark on the guage. As soon as I get over the hill and am able to maintain my EGTs at a much cooler temp the engine cools down as well. I flushed my radiator aboout 7,000 miles ago and it runs around 190* normally, and no leaks. Is this normal or should I be looking at blocked air flow through the radiator?

Mona is maybe an hour from SLC and I can't say that I have spent much time in that area. I pass through there once a year on my way to a traditional ice fishing outing and the only attraction that I know of in the area is a great place to get a hamburger. Not saying there isn't anything to see, I just am not familiar enough to make any suggetions. I appologize for not being anymore help. Mona is closer to Utah Lake (Fresh water) than the Great Salt Lake, but you can get to the salty pond in about an hour from Mona. Keep in mind that much of the lake is wetlands and this makes for shallow-stagnat water that leaves the rest of the lake with a bad reputation, that that is not true for the biggest part of the lake which is quite facinating. I hope you enjoy your trip out here.

What type of things are you interested in doing or seeing? There is a lot to do but transportation and time can limit you. I live about an hour north of SLC but would be happy to make some suggestions. Utah Olympic Park is pretty cool and a lot to see. It is in Park City, about a 30 min drive. http://www.visitparkcity.com/things-to-do/utah-olympic-park/ The alpine slides are well worth your time. Temple Square in downtown SLC is a nice visit it you are interested in just walking around and seeing the gardens. There is some neat history and architecture. SLC has a minor league baseball team and those games are a lot of fun. Check the schedule for Salt Lake Bees to see if they have a home game. http://saltlake.bees.milb.com/index.jsp?sid=t561 The city has a pretty good transit system with Trax (light rail) running through the city and a train (Frontrunner) running North and south. http://www.rideuta.com/ You can catch Trax from the airport and it will take you into the city. We have major league soccer team if you are into that sort of thing. http://www.realsaltlake.com/schedule Or you can go about 20 minutes south to the city of Lehi and spend a few hours wondering Cabella's. Not a bad place to burn a few hours and as much money as you would want. Hope this helps.

So maybe I found the reason for my batteries depleting so quickly. I left the trailer plugged in to charge for 2 days. After unplugging the trailer the batteries were sitting at ~12.7 vDC. So, Monday afternoon, with a full charge on the batteries, I started up the fridge. I measured the draw with just the fridge running at it is about .5 amps. I checked it the next morning and not much change on the volts, the same for Tuesday afternoon. By Wednesday morning the batteries were sitting at ~12.4ish. I started thinking I was ok and my trip was a fluke. By the time I got home Wednesday afternoon the batteries were reading 10.6 vDC. Nothing had changed as far as what was turned on, just the fridge and the gas monitor. The total draw for the trailer was around .7 amps. Trying to figure out why the batteries would deplete so quicklly in a 10 hour window I looked at connections and cleaned what i could. I pulled the batteries and water levels were normal. I just bought this and the seller told me he bought these batteries last year and they look great. However, when I pulled them out of their hole I was able to see that they are Marine Starting Batteries. I am assuming this is the reason why they die so quickly. Before I run out an buy a pair of deep cycle batteries, is this how starting batteries hold up in an RV?? Thanks for the help.

I would like to upgrade my trailer to LED bulbs. Can anybody recommend a good buld and/or source? I have 21 bulbs in the trailer so I will do it a few at a time. Thanks for the recommendations.

If 9162 is a 2-way model I must be wrong about it being a 3-way. The controls on the fridge have an option for AC/LP/DC. I was operating the fridge in Auto and it stayed in LP. I could here the burner outside at the access panel. As soon as the batteries drained it would shut off and it would not light. The propane tanks are full, I filled them up 10 minutes before we got on the road. As soon as I hooked up the truck the fridge's burner would light up and run like a champ--until the battery's voltage dropped. I plan check the water level in the batteries. Thanks for the suggestion.

Mike, Even in LP mode this fridge requires at least 10.5 vDC to maintain this "Moisture Reduction Heater". It is to keep condensation from building up--I think. I had the fridge set to LP mode. After some searching on the internet I found that other refers have this same heater but many of them have the option of switching it off. My fridge does not have that switch, hence the reason I would like to take the element out of the equation.

I recently bought a 1999 Wanderer Fifth Wheel. This past weekend we took it out for the first time. Everything worked fine, but we learned that the fridge really drains the batteries. We don't have a generator and the our camping spot didn't have hook ups. After 24 hours the batteries (2 12 volt) were dead. I forgot to pack my voltmeter but they were drained to the point that the interior lights were at about 25%. The fridge is a 3 way Norcold 9162 freezer on top and fridge on the bottom. It was doing fine in AC mode at home and LP mode for the first 24 hours. I noticed that all of the lights on the fridge were blinking/flashing indicating that something was wrong. I couldn't get it to work in LP mode until I plugged the truck in--everything worked as advertised. According to the fridge's manual, the fridge will not work in any mode if the battery drop below 10.5 vDC. I thought this strange as I was in LP mode and didn't imagine the small lights on the display required that much power to operate. Going through the manual and the Interwebs I found that this fridge has a Moisture Reduction Heater between the freezer and fridge portions and pulls as much as 2 amps when in use. As far as I can tell, there is no switch to disable this, but I imagine that I can either unplug the element or cut a wire to get the job done. Does anyone have experience with this? Would there be adverse consequences for disabling the heater? I am certain the fridge is the culprit of the dead batteries. As soon as I turned off the fridge the interior lights in the trailer got brighter and it has been parked in my yard with the fridge off for 3 days and the batteries are holding solid. Thanks for the help.

I see, so not necessarily a blown fuze. Just out of curiosity, what the crack/open visible?