Rick C in Oakville

I'm running a manual, so I haven't any advice, but I admire your tenacity at getting to the problem. Excellent play by play, I would have had it in the shop bleeding dollars to repair it.

I bought a rebuilt up here for around $150.00, it wasn't leaking, but loose as a goose's patooey when on the highway. I would have gone Borgenson if i had the cash.I didn't have any issues with the lines coming off and going back on. Good time to rebuld your vacuum pump as you will need to bleed the power steering pump after replacing the box, saves you from doing it twice.

We have a guy up here in ontario doing this swap to a 2004. I always liked how Ford trucks looked especially the crew cab dually, but the 6.0 scared me away. Just read that the 6.7 is also starting to suffer from some EGR cooler woes also. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/ontario/360294-2004-cummins-swap.html

Unfortunately they never put a bleed screw on the slave. If you do it, do both units, i did the slave and then the master went, just died with no warning. I had about 240k miles when this all happened.

I would also change the slave cylinder and master for the clutch. Mine all failed around the same time, first the clutch then master.. You can get a pre bled unit, but costly. If you have some patience buy the 2 parts separate, partially bleed it and then pump the pedal a couple of hundred time(honestly I kid you not) and it will then bleed it self eventually.

Welcome, almost forgot about this section.Rick

Thanks for your experience with this, I have the seal install tool,but not sure if it will slip over crank, might take a chance and tackle this in the next couple of weeks as I can't stand the oil on my driveway.

Has anybody done this without taking off the gear cover? I put a new one in about 2.5 years ago when I did the KDP, but it has started leaking again, coating the front steering components and of course the drive way.ThanksRick

My son had a similar issue last year, was corrosion on the cable/ball socket. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4066-Throttle-has-a-quot-hard-quot-spot-and-idles-high

Just discovered this part of the site, in Oakville Ontario. Usually trolling the Tech sections to keep my coal rolling LOL

Love my truck when the snow flies , but love my 83 5.0 Mustang when the sun shines! LOL

My brother in laws Bombardier Ski doo works on this principal for reverse, engine stalls then starts up in reverse rotation. Aren't the 12 V's considered a 2 stroke design?

Yeah, Rust never sleeps according to Neil Young LOL. Had my own fiasco with a seized front drive shaft spline the past week.Good luck in getting er done.

I've got all the parts to rebuild it, and have it half apart. Hardest thing to find up here was the Dust seal for the ball and socket joint. I thought it would come with the ball and socket but that was wishful thinking:lmao:. Chrysler was absolutely useless, don't even have the parts of the Double cardan available even though the U joints are just standard issue type. Found a driveline repair company who had the seal, but must have burned $50 :spend:in fuel to find it.It's our Thanksgiving this weekend, so won't get a chance to assemble it, hopefully by next Saturday it will be installed.

LOL, any tips on the Double Cardan replacement, which end to start with, what to avoid? Looks abit complicated for sure, but I have nothing to lose at this point.

Update to my post: Wow when these are seized they are a bugger to free up! Talked to a few shops but most were recommending I find a good used unit. Tried that route but not too many in my area, found one from a 97 automatic, but it was longer by about 2 inches. So with few options I decided to take another crack at it, took 2 hours of beating and heating to get 2 inches, than another 2 hours to get it fully off. My vice was too flimsy and trying to get a good hit on it horizontally was not very effective. Hung it from the forks of a fork lift, gave me a chance at hitting it downward and let the WD40 soak in as I heated it. Man I'm glad thats over. Thanks for all the previous help, now I just have to do the Cardan(cardone?) joint.

Thanks for the info on the splines, yeah if I don't get it this weekend looks like I'm off to a shop with a press.

I've been soaking and hammering my front drive shaft for a couple of days and it isn't budging. What i need to know is which part has the splines that slides. I can't see any and I was soaking the part of the larger drive shaft under the rubber cover (to the right towards the double cardan) but tonight after looking at it again I think the spline is to the left to the front U joint. Hope someone can shed somelight on this for me. Thanks Rick

Just having gone through this with my 98, I would check your hydraulics first as it wanted to creep/vibrate with the clutch in all the way, sounds like the slave isn't extending all the way to deactivate the clutch.If you decide to replace the Hydraulics, do both the slave and master as i did one at a time and only got about amonth or 2 before the master let go, and having to reblled the system twice and wait for the air (through useage) bleed out was pure PITA.Wow, if I could have had someone re and re for $400.00, I would have jumped at it. Minimum quote I had here was $1000.00 for labour only. My son and I did it ourselves even though we had to buy a used tranny jack, saved quite a bit.Good Luck and let us know what you find out

ISX, yes that is the part I am talking about. Boot is in excellent condition, I can only pull the boot back a little and can't see the splines. I don't have a tool to recrimp the boot clamp or I would remove it to expose it fully.Going to try some WD40 and may just need to get some lube down in it and let the suspension keep loosening it as it moves. Wasn't an issue before I took it out, but would like to correct it now.The rubber cover on the ball is torn, it moves freely at this joint, it's the U joint that attaches to the drive shaft that is seized. May see if I can get a replacement ball cover and just grease it up.

Having taken out the front drive shaft to change the clutch, I noticed that there is a rubber cover over what looks like a joint in the front driveshaft. Is this suppose to slide to take up changes in the suspension movement? If so mine must be seized, as it feels like one solid drive shaft. Anyone unseize one of these before? I have it out as I need to change 1 seized Ujoint at the Cardan joint, so a good time to correct this if so.ThanksRick

Do you mean the front timing cover bolts need to be tightened? There is so much oil splash on the front and side of the engine, I can't get a good idea where it is all coming from. At least I won't need to rust proof the engine bay LOL

There wasn't any rattling, but given the engine noise it may have masked it. The only symptom was some mild clutch chattering at low rpms but nothing major. The new clutch feels sweet and the annoying not able to shift into 1st or 2nd at a stop seems to be gone. Possibly the input shaft was wobbling around. The only thing that seemed to be a wasted effort this service was we installed a new gasket kit in the Vacuum pump and we still have an oil leak up front somewhere

Well we got the tranny back in tonight, had to buy a transmission jack on Kijjiiiji for a $100. Interesting thing we found was the pilot bearing was destroyed, not a needle bearing in site. Clutch was probably 80% worn and all the springs on the friction plate were quite loose. The new LUK clutch has double springs on both sets of springs, where as the original LUK we took out only had 1 set of springs that were double.The transmission crossmember was a real treat, had to borrow a hydraulic jack to spread the frame rails to get it to slip back in.Will know by Saturday if all is back to normal with this, still have the drive shafts, skid plate etc. to get back in.

[aQUOTE=Mopar1973Man;39036]I hate to say it you got to drop the trans and bellhousing to see the condition of the flywheel and plate...