Lone Watie

I bought one of these code readers a few years ago after I was naive and let Dodge scan and fix for the small fortune of $700. Never again. It saves a trip to auto zone to use their's and also erases the CEL. It just gives the codes, so you have to research the causes. Dodge charges something like $100 to scan, this thing was $50. There are cheaper scanners on amazon as well for less than $50. Don't know how well they work. Just read the reviews on them. I now have a scan gauge II which does the same thing and then some. Here's a couple links: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-PocketScan-Code-Reader/dp/B0007LEG2K/ref=lp_15707381_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1369920107&sr=1-16 http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automotive-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1369920258&sr=1-1&keywords=scangauge+2

Also curious about the heavy drops in pressure.

It wasn't super expensive, but not cheap either: http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiring-70107-Cirkit-7Circ/dp/B000A8OG2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369919477&sr=8-1&keywords=painless+wiring+70107 $73 at amazon. They do have one's with not as many fuse places. Just look thru their catalog (painless) and search for the part number on amazon. Here's a one constant hot/2 ignition hot block for $63: http://www.amazon.com/Painless-Wiring-70103-Cirkit-3Circ/dp/B00062Z5SY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1369919633&sr=1-1&keywords=painless+wiring+70103 Or one with 3 ignition hots only for $57: http://www.amazon.com/Painless-70113/dp/B0006304HK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1369919728&sr=1-1&keywords=painless+wiring+70113

That's the one, amazon has the same plug for 5-6$$$. I'll get a pic or two for you. http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-10242-Auxiliary-Outlet/dp/B000WEMH4G/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1369916637&sr=8-6&keywords=car+power+outlet

Logan, picked up a 2 port 12-v power outlet at O'Reilly's this afternoon, and had her wired up in not time, and now I turn ignition on and GPS comes on. That painless wiring fuse block I bought really made it piece of cake. It's basically what Michael did, but all in one package.

Here's what I did a couple weeks ago, and, as the name suggests, it was fairly painless . http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70107 I don't have anything significant hooked up to it yet, but it's there when I need it. Matter of fact, I like your idea, as I have to pull my GPS cord out of the power outlet whenever I shut off the truck, and was thinking of installing a switch in the GPS cord, but your idea is a little easier. I'm heading to O'Reilly's later today and picking a 2 port outlet up for $8 and wiring it up. Thanks for the idea.

As a humorous side note you could get one of these: http://www.hornblasters.com/video.php?video=94 Seriously, let us know what you find for this. Good luck.

The overflow valve I'm referring to is not plumbed for anything other than over flow for the VP. When the pressure for the VP is too much the overflow valve opens and releases fuel back to the tank. It's not part of the inlet side of things, but the VP outlet. I wouldn't mess with it. I was just referring to it to show you where it is located in relation to the VP inlet connection, which is where my fitting with a needle valve going to my gauge is located. Sorry if I caused any confusion with this.Interesting about the 14mm threads. I had just assumed it would be 12mm like the inlet banjo. I just went and checked my spare overflow I have in my toolbox and sure enough mine is 14mm as well. Apologize for unintentionally misleading you on the size of that overflow. Still, it is not part of the inlet side of the VP though they are next to each other. If you plumb your gauge into there you'll be reading return pressure from the VP to the tank, and will not have overflow protection for the VP if you remove that valve. Hopefully someone can chime in here soon on this to either confirm or deny my understanding of the overflow valve.

Easy fixes most of the time make the intitial frustration worth it.

Very nice looking. Great job on the mod.

My sending unit stuck at full yesterday, again. I took a soft dead blow to the top of the canister this morning, which was in a bit of a tight spot needless to say, and she started registering again. One of these days I need to repair that thing. I'm thinking vulcan's liberty module when I recover from the fuel boss install, as I'm sure when I pull the lines off the top of the tank, they will break (murphy's law). My sending unit is the old style with arced metal inlet/outlet lines. I know there's a repair here for the float, just need to search for it.

That flat bed will look really nice on there, it will even out the dual wheels aesthetically.

How about with a needle valve to dampen the pressure. I've been running mine like that for about 3 years on a mechanical with an isolator and had no problems, and pressure's have been steady, not jumpy, and have been verified with another gauge. Just curious if that setup is okay.

1999 service manual lists it as 'near powertrain control module' , don't know if same for your year.

Only thing I can find on cummins quickserve is the hose itself, which is 3914948 Not sure if the water drain can be taken off and replaced judging by the pic. Keep in mind my truck is 1999, and filter might be slightly different than a 2000. Sorry couldn't help more.

Don't know if answers your question, but Richard told me some guys leave the hobbs unplugged, and simply run a toggle from the pigtail harness into the cab, the logic being they would be in control of when to flip on the stocker in event of a fuel boss belt failure. I wonder what's throwing the codes. Is your pigtail completely connected and did you use any di-electric grease on the contacts? Maybe something else going on? Maybe the carter on its way out anyway?

Cummins did email me and wrote that they have an agreement with Chrysler not to service warrantied vehicles, to which I replied that my truck hasn't been under warranty for a long time now. We'll see how they respond.

Does anyone here use the cummins quick serve? If so, didn't you used to be able to view service diagrams and maintenance manuals there? I cannot seem to find the links inside the site for those anymore, and it reads that no service manuals are available for my motor. Thanks.

Which bolt would that be that you had to grind down a wrench? What size was it, and how far down did you grind it?

All I know is that some early 24V were susceptible to the KDP issue, and some were manufactured with a stepped case which supposedly won't allow the pin to fall into anything critical. Mine is a 1999, so naturally I'm a little concerned, and for peace of mind will be taking a look at it soon. At best, I have a stepped case and I'm safe, at worst it is still in place and either hasn't and won't, or hasn't and will.

I'm running the stock filter. Best bet is to speak with Richard at Glacier Diesel and see what he says about running another filter setup.

Is there a way to tell if it has a groove before removing everything? What year is yours? Thanks for the description of the fan/pulley/clutch, but what bracket are you referring to?

Isn't the spring under the pulley holding the fan on under tension? That's what it says in my alldata service manual: CAUTION: Do not remove the fan pulley bolts. This pulley is under spring tension. Just curious about that. It makes more sense what you're suggesting, but was concerned about the tension. Maybe I'm thinking of the wrong bolts, and you're not removing the pulley, but just the fan and the clutch as one assembly. Is this correct? Thanks - - - Updated - - - Doesn't the kit come with the timing cover seal? If I'm going to all that trouble might as well put on a new seal, unless you know other place to get the seal.

I like that idea - thanks. Saves bumping the starter several times. - - - Updated - - - The 1/8 plug on the left side of the first pic, just above the yellow drain, is on the filtered side, the plug on the right, just below the big input line is pre-filter, if I understand correctly. On the second pic, the banjo bolt on the right is the inlet to your VP, and the one on the left is the overflow valve, to which the return line from the VP is attached. Here's mine, which is identical, except I added a long 1/8 in extension for when I hook up a FP test gauge it makes it easier to thread it on there.

I'll have to look at the top of the filter to see the fittings. I'm on way out the door right now, but promise a picture of the top of my filter and then can explain a little better.