eddielee

Found manifold pressure sensor right side of manifold on bottom. Unplugged manifold and oil pressure sensors now I get no continuity between A&B Okay, I have done further testing. With the oil pressure sensor plugged back in I get open line with MAP plugged back in resistance is 1.59. Question is should this be, or do I need to replace the MAP sensor? Codes are only thrown for Camshaft position sensor. Stopped by Oreilly and had them pull a MAP sensor. Resistance on it was 1.5 across the sensor supply and return posts. That definitely rules out MAP causing the issue. Time to return the ECM and hope they have another I guess... Blah

I would buy your truck and ditch my 1999 if I were closer and you decided to sell. The front bumper cover can be cleaned with a chemical, search it. Usually that faded color is actually wax from a car wash or something, may be the case with headlights too. So If you did sell it, what would you want for it?

After looking at this I searched Cummins on Google play and they have their own app fault code adviser. Read and manage public j1939 fault codes and other data from your cummins engine. Once you install the software it asks you to link to bluetooth obd2 device.

Red in ECM and black in cam. Does it matter? Swap the leads and it goes to 1.59. Where is the manifold pressure sensor anyhow?

Okay, I was just testing the resistance between the ECM and the cam sensor harness. I stuck my probe in the 10 spot and tested to A in cam harness, 0-.001 ohms Test 10 to B and 1.543 ohms on sound setting should this be? When I test to ground I get open line. If I need to repair this how should I go about it? This circuit runs parallel with the absolute pressure and oil sensors, which is part of the reason I am unsure if this is good.

Someone said something about touching the jumper cables together and Mopar Man said something about reversing the cables, then I read this on Larrry B's alternator diode bridge: Rarely does the diode pack fail unless while jumping the battery with jumper cables someone accidentally crossed the cables. (not you of course :)) or allowed the cables to touch each other or ground while the motor is running. This will toast the diode bridge.

CSM, I am curious how much that alternator you wrote up actually cost. I like the fact that they are made in the USA. In my opinion that makes them worth more. Buying USA made promotes US economy... A bridge rectifier converts AC to DC and I do not exactly see a way to install one unless I open the alternator and reman it myself. Pull other parts and create my own bridge rectifier. Maybe it would be worth it, however, a lot of work and soldering... It seems from what you are saying, if I want to protect the sensitive electrical from possible over current then I will need to install zener diodes in the supply lines to the ecm, pcm and VP44 individually. The zener diode is used as a voltage regulator and will stabilize the voltage...

This is what you want, no need wasting time, or energy. http://www.fostertruck.com/replacement-trigger-stud-for-89-02-dodge-denso-starter.html

I have been considering installing a blocking diode for Alternative energy production to prevent AC Noise from screwing things up. 1600V*100A=160kW which is far more than our trucks output. This means that I could install it between the alternator and the power block to protect all electrical components easily and cost effectively. Installing a diode eliminates the possibility of AC current because it only allows current to flow one way. I would install it between the power block and the alternator then heat shrink to prevent electrical hazards. Another option I have thought of is creating a diode bridge, however, it is difficult to find diodes with the capability of handling the current output. The only benefit to a bridge is that it would eliminate spikes due to having half of the AC wave. I don't think the average 1 max 2 volt spike will effect the electrical so much. Have a look at what I am talking about http://www.ebay.com/itm/1600V-Volt-100A-Amp-Wind-Turbine-Generator-Solar-Panel-PV-Stud-Blocking-Diode-/201025568109

To throw it out there, the reason for connecting the negative lead somewhere other than the battery is so that there is more resistance forcing the electrcity from the jumping vehicle through the starter. Electricity takes the course of least resistance, positive lead on battery and Negative, preferably on engine, creates a longer path causing more resistance. This in turn makes the starter part of the circuit. You don't need to worry about the AC noise when jumping other vehicles and they don't make jumper cables with diodes. I have been thinking of inserting diodes in the PCM, ECM and the VP44 power circuits to eliminate the possibility of AC noise. Essentially a diode only allows the current to flow in one direction eliminating the possibility of AC contamination. One that I am considering is a solar panel diode that is rated for the full capacity of a string of PV Cells to eliminate damaging the array. Here is what I am talking about. They seem perfect to protect our trucks with an easy install. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1600V-Volt-100A-Amp-Wind-Turbine-Generator-Solar-Panel-PV-Stud-Blocking-Diode-/201025568109

I checked resistance from ground to all 3 at sensor connector in three different settings. 200k C=46.7 B=0 A=1.7 20k C=OL B=0 A=2.44 2k C=OL B=0 A=OL Not sure what this means exactly

Okay, I am looking at the 2nd gen 24V P0341 cam sensor diagnostic and see some discrepancies with what I have. Before I was using the 3rd gen and I found that 9, 10, & 11 go to the sensor directly. 9 is sensor signal tn/yl, 10 is power to the sensor Or, and 11 is the ground Blk/LB. They are all continuous and show continuity. I am not sure what the (B)+ shown below is but that is where the ground from the sensor goes. I am tempted to break the ground wire near the sensor and connect it to a ground somewhere to see if this solves the issue. I checked the voltage in the Cam sensor connector with the key on: between A&B I get 4.97V between A&C I get 4.91V, between B&C I get no voltage at all. Any thoughts On what to do next? I see the first says 1999 and the second says 2002 and it says you edited it. The first one, linked below, I saw was right http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/wiring/1999-Dodge-Wiring-Pg3.jpg

Here is a link to the other thread, only shows 1-17 Here is the fixed link http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/1882706-cam-sensor-ecm-wiring-rundown-help.html

Thank you Haggar, I posted my issue on cummins forum and jibayes posted one he has for me to see. His matches my ECM connector and wiring so I think the one I downloaded from here, which I posted, is for different model even though it is listed as 1999.

19 mm=3/4 in Not sure what size it is though if you look for one specifically for it get a tubing wrench likely a metric beings cummins uses metric everywhere.

If I were to want to relocate my batteries I would first find a new place for them. Next I would look into the possible need for increased wire gauge to compensate for increased voltage drop. Find a way to mount the batteries where you want them and they wont move around, then, run wires of calculated gauge to the new mounting location. If you don't adjust for increased voltage drop there may be an issue with cranking and/or charging capability. I am curious why you want to move the battery in the first place though

I have been diagnosing my Camshaft sensor issue after installing a new ECU in my 1999 5sp Manual 2500. I have been going through the article: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/312-p0341-camshaft-position-cmp-sensor-signal I am using the pin-out from the FSM to locate the wire positions in the ECU connector and the sensor connector. There are numbers on the ECU connector for reference. I have found the conducting wire which actually goes to the Ecu connector in spot 9 instead of spot 17 as specified in the pin-out. There is full continuity between the Pin C in the cam sensor connector and pin 9 in the Ecu connector. I was about to cut and solder due to diagnostic specifications and lack of continuity of the specified pins, Then I noticed the color of the wires is different. I would appreciate any understanding as to why this is the case and help me to find the best solution to my issue. And replacing the cam sensor is a major PiTA... Below is the ECU pin-out in the FSM ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (DIESEL) - 50 WAY CAV CIRCUIT FUNCTION 1 H104 18BR/OR IDLE VALIDATION SWITCH NO. 1 2 K244 20YL/DB CUMMINS BUS (+) 3 K6 18VT/WT 5V SUPPLY 4 K14 18BK/DB SENSOR GROUND 5 F18 18LG/BK FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (RUN-START) 6 G60 18GY/BK ENGINE OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL 7 K21 18BK/RD INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL 8 G12 18GY/RD MANIFOLD AIR PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL 9 - - 10 K7 18OR 5V SUPPLY 11 K104 18BK/LB SENSOR GROUND 12 K246 20YL/DG CUMMINS BUS (-) 13 K242 20WT DATA LINK (+) FUEL INJECTION PUMP 14 K2 18TN/BK ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL 15 K135 18YL/WT TRANSFER PUMP SUPPLY 16 H105 18LG/DB IDLE VALIDATION SWITCH NO. 2 17 K124 18GY CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL 18 K48 18DG FUEL INJECTION PUMP SYNC SIGNAL 19 - - 20 - - 21 K1 18DG/RD WATER IN FUEL SENSOR SIGNAL 22 V37 18RD/LG SPEED CONTROL SWITCH SIGNAL 23 K240 20BK DATA LINK (-) FUEL INJECTOR PUMP 24 V32 18YL/RD BRAKE SWITCH SENSE 25 H102 18LB/BK ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL 26 G113 18OR PTO SWITCH SENSE 27 - - 28 K22 18OR/DB ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL 29 S21 18YL/BK AIR INTAKE HEATER RELAY NO.1 30 Z12 18BK/TN GROUND 31 H101 18DB/WT ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR SUPPLY 32 H103 18BK/YL ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR GROUND 33 K45 18LB/RD FUEL SHUT-OFF SIGNAL 34 K44 18VT/OR LOW IDLE SELECT 35 K135 18YL/WT TRANSFER PUMP SUPPLY 36 K131 18BR/WT FUEL INJECTOR PUMP RELAY CONTROL 37 G85 18OR/BK WAIT-TO-START WARNING INDICATOR DRIVER 38 D21 18PK/DB SCI TRANSMIT 39 D20 18DG SCI RECEIVE 40 D2 18WT/BK CCD BUS (-) 41 D1 18VT/BR CCD BUS (+) 42 K247 20DB CUMMINS BUS SHIELD 43 G7 18WT/OR VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL 44 K243 20OR/BR DATA LINK SHIELD FUEL INJECTOR PUMP 45 K24 18GY/BK CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL 46 - - 47 S22 18OR/BK AIR INTAKE HEATER RELAY CONTROL NO. 2 48 A14 18RD/WT FUSED B(+) 49 Z12 18BK/TN GROUND 50 A14 18RD/WT FUSED B(+)

Update: I just installed a new to me ECM yesterday. Now the code is thrown for Cam Sensor. I did some diagnostic work this morning and the Cam sensor signal line is not continuous, will repair with new wire. The 5v line and the ground are showing low resistance in the area of .001-Ohms. I hope this is the end of the issues.

It seems that if the tach is dead and I shut it down there will be a nostart. If I wait for tach to come back it starts fine. As a diagnostic question, will a cam sensor cause a dead tach? It kind of makes sense that it would, however, I would like to make sure before I replace it and it is not the issue. Testing is difficult on intermittent issues, especially electrical.

I did get in there and look at it as well as you can through a little hole. No marks on the sensor, nor any movement in the ring that I can tell. Someone else said that it could be the cam sensor causing the CEL for the Crank sensor. I am questioning this at the moment. Will the cam sensor being bad cause the tach to go dead? Will the cam or crank sensor cause the truck not to start occasionally? Still contemplating the issue and what to do next. I drove it for a couple hours yesterday and I had no issues whatsoever, took a ride down the parkway. Seems to happen when driving in town and not so much when under constant speed. Any ideas what I should actually do at this point? Especially on limited funds?

tone ring Found through google images

The answer was given to me by another sites member to fully investigate the tone ring you must drop the oil pan. however, you can use a mirror and or a screwdriver to check for movement and obviously missing teeth. The second part was that the cam sensor being bad can cause an erroneous CEL for crank sensor. Now the question is whether I should try the needle point inspection or replace the cam sensor. Beings I am running on limited funds I will try and needle point and replace the cam sensor if it looks good. Thank you for the response, hopefully this will help someone else. Maybe someone else has further insight as well.

Hello y'all I have a 99 5.9l 2wd 5spd man and the crank position sensor code is being thrown. I recently replaced this with an OEM part and after a few months the code is coming back. From what I understand this issue can be caused by a loose tone ring. However, I cannot find out the exact placement despite searching multiple times and places. Is the tone ring in the block and do I have to drop the oil pan to check and tighten it? The only other thing I am finding may be an issue is the ECM itself, if that is the case I will get rid of the truck at this point. Thank you for your assistance and any insight you may have. Ed

After reading all that you have gone round with it is difficult to find any new suggestions. However, I will ask if you have biodiesel available in your area and if you ever use it. It is an excellent cleaner and has great lubrication properties. 1% bio increases the lubricity of your fuel by 1000 from what I understand. Just make sure you get it from a good supplier so there is no water in it. I assume when you say crossover tubes you are talking about the fuel lines between the engine and the injectors. If not then I would ask what the condition of your fuel lines is. Biodiesel should help either way, use a couple gallons per fillup to improve lubricity and clean the system.

BioDiesel if you can get it is better than anything for lubrication. I haven't read the whole thread, but, did you change your fuel filter?