Me78569

the app is running as a service compared to the iquad app, which already has the screen running %100, bluetooth / wifi and polling of data miultiple times a second. I remember you saying how "hot" your phone got. Add GPS on top of that and it will drain even faster.

battery useage would also be a concern haha. you should be able to add speed without much $$ and Time

@Quadzilla Power I think he wants the Andriod device to pass the gps info to the app.

there isn't an issue with the math, it is just that your tires true circumference is not able to be calculated by the generic tire size. One OEM's 234/85/16 might be .5" taller than another 235/85/16. That will result in a big difference in circumference. That is why it is somewhat fuzzy math. You need to trial and error the true rolling circumference of your tire. If you want to use the truck signal just set your circumference to 95.7

This article covers the general process you go through when you order a new truck through a dealer. We have split the status's into stages to help you understand the steps. Mopar1973man.com made up the "stages" When you order a new truck these are the status's that they use. You can find your status 1 of 2 ways. 1. contacting your dealer they can find hte order info and give you a status. The dealer can look up the order via VON or VIN. 2. you can go to https://www.ramtrucks.com/webselfservice/ram/index.html and click Live Chat. They can always lookup by VIN, and sometimes find it via VON. The live chat will be much more reliable in Stage 3 of the build when you have a VIn. If you are financing you should figure out how much you can afford, but not run your credit / loan process until your truck is on the lot. A lot of times the loan will expire after 30 days. If you get financing at stage 1 of the process your loan will likely expire. 1. you go in or call in with what you want. 2. dealer will build up the order and have you review. This is a good time to ask to see colors / options in the lot 3. Once you are ok with the list the dealer will likely take a deposit from you. It is a good idea to use a Credit Card so that if something doesn't go right you can dispute the charges. 4. The dealer will now have a VON or Vehicle order number. This is how the truck is referenced until it has a VIN. You are now in stage 1 of the process. The Factory does not know about the order until stage 3 5. Now you wait. If all is well you should move through B status's , which is order confirm and ensuring that there are no mistakes, in ~ 1 week. IF your truck has low volume opitions then you may stay in BG status until enough units are ordered for the factory to schedule. 6. Vehicles may go through several stages in one day.. example is going from b status to D status, there is a c status between but it is doubtful you will see C status. 7. once you hit D status the order should now have a Vin. The dealer will not release the Vin until D1 status. 8. You should hit D1 status, the factory now has a good idea / guess as to when the truck will leave the factory. This is when you get a VIN. 9. Your truck should move through D1 > E > F > G over the next few weeks. 10. You may or may not see status I / J / JB / JE / JS depending on your order opitions. JS is commonly referred to as storage where they wait for shipping. 11. you have now hit stage 5 where the factory is done with it and the railroad takes over. Good news your truck is on it's way to you. 12. you get the truck and pay for it. Stage 1 BA: New order that hasn't been checked, this is the status when the order is first put in. Only the dealer knows about it BB: Review by fleet department, the order is now being processed. BD: Special equipment processing. This is where things like snow plow prep etc get checked. Special items. BE: Edit error BG: Passed edit n/a for schedule. This is where the order can sit and wait for things like low volume paint where there needs to be x number or similar orders BGL: Edit ok parts unavailable BX: Passed edit available for schedule Stage 2 C: Sub firm - Tentative schedule Now the factory knows about the order. Stage 3 D: Firm schedule - dealer has allocation and all parts available D1: Gateline schedule - scheduled to be built Stage 4 E: Frame F: Paint G: Trim I: Built not ok'd J: Built ok'd JB: Shipped to Upfit Center JE: Emission check JS: Shipped to storage Stage 5 KZ: Released by plant , invoiced KZL: Released - not shipped KZM: First rail departure KZN: First rail arrival KZO: Delayed/recieved KZOA: Plant holds KZOB: Zone/distribution holds KZOC: Carrier delays KZOD: Carrier holds KZOE: Mis-shipped vehicle KZOF: Show/test vehicle KZOG: Damaged vehicle KZOH: All other reasons KZT: Second rail departure KZU: Second rail arrival KZX: Delivered to dealer Stage Canceled ZA: Canceled, the dealer or you have canceled the order View full Cummins article

Yes

your box already has v2 tuning on it. just load the custom tune from the download section via your andriod device. There are 2 levels of the tune, 1. base flash, which is V2 2. the custom tune on top of the base flash

Also worth noting a different vp44. Mike's old pump could have been a freak pump

I really doubt hte ecm took out the vp. Pssobile, but unlikely.

bad time of the year for ordering.

D is the factory knows and says "yea we can do that". D1 is we can do that at x date

Well big news!!! We are at d status with a vin

a good bit better, flows about 9 lb/min more 60 vs 69 lb/min with a more efficent design. Should spool faster now. mechanically

the 351cw is hard to beat for sub 450 hp truthfully.

start increasing fuel stretch until you are happy, with mach 4 injectors there is no need to have min wiretap set at %50 and fuel stretch at 2200. You are going to produce less hp with stretch at 2200 than you will at 1800 or so. Remember the butt dyno is a liar.

I dont like saying you should edit pop unless you know what you want. its still uncharted territory The .012 tune will be a good starting point. Timing changes shouldn't be needed. with the quad you dont really need to worry about engine load vs timing, you just set timing where you want it.

there was a semi valid reason for that myth to come about. Once you got beyond that 7 x .010's mark you would find that your cruising engine load was so low that you were on the front side of the timing advance island so timing was a good bit lower, same if you ran stock injectors and went over 55, but you ended up on the other side of the island with low timing again. The reason why more got better mpg with some 50-150's is because you extented the mph you could drive without load getting high enough to come off the island.

back off wiretap from 2200 down to 1600, change min wiretap down to %0, increase boost scaling to 40 psi Timing: 1500:15* 2000: 19* 2500: 26* 3000: 28* max: 30* timing reduct scaling %100 You have enough injector to not need a ton of wiretap. Keep in mind the quad will fuel %100 to 3500 then from 3500 to 3700 the ecm is pulling fuel rapidly. after 3700 rpm the quadzilla gives up. So you can spend prolonged time at 3450 rpm, but not at 3650 Trying to hold 3650rpm will result in fueling falling off and wiretap alone. If you are accelerating through gears you can rev out to 3700 just fine, just not hold rpms in the 3500+ rpm area for prolonged periods of time.

I'd go with 7 x .010's or .011's for your setup. If you already have good 7 x .010's then run them.

That was me. The he351ve does about 9lb/min more than a hx35. As long as you drive semi smart you will be fine. What are your hours goals?

Some guys have, it is not a long term solution though.

I wouldn't worry about ho vs so. Just make small changes and see if things change over time.

Play around with it and see if you can notice an drop in egts by increasing or decreasing. My truck however liked that 20*-21* mark at 2k rpm

Check it with an air compressor to see when it starts to open. Did you test for boost leaks?