Me78569

I have talked ALOT with people who have access to Spicer PN's and I am all but sure those are OEM. Do you have a link to the higher priced version of them? I am VERY interested to get to the bottom of it. I have heard of the multi grade spicer stuff, but I have never been able to find 2 different grades of ball joints. The PN match what spicer says is the "good ones" for the Dana 60. whatever that is worth

Dripley, Dennydriveshaft as OEM ball joints for a good bit cheaper than quad4X4 http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c904_ball_joints.html

Nope just what is in the cooler and such. I'd say 4 quarts

Take it out and soak / clean with simple green and a long bristle brush. I really need to do this myself.

Loosen injectors 1,3,5 or similar and crank for at least 30 seconds. It may take a good bit of time to see diesel. This works best with a spotter, but you must crank in order to see fuel out of the injector lines.

Yep, but I don't see a need. I can currently do 2 days and still be good battery wise. Throw in a solar panel and extend that to 3 or 4 and I am happy. And again if I get in a tight spot I can just flip the switch that allows me to charge via the 7 pin connector. I suppose I technically have 3 group 31's that I am able to run off of right now

So I did the math, ugh sometimes I hate being informed..... If everything I have power wise is running at 125% rated W at the same time I pull less than 4 amps total. So 8 hours per day , which again is longer than I need, is 32 amp hr to run everything at 125%. So in theory on a good day a 50w panel should be able to keep up plus some, correct?

so really 50w should be PLENTY for my needs? I likely could get away with 25w?

Pm's slip through the crack when you get a wave of them each day. Your questions are better asked via a help ticket or here on the forum where more than one set of eyes are watching.

so in theory you should see 60 amp hours in a perfect world?

Alright solar panel nerds.....Cough Mike or anyone else that knows....... I am an "expert" in far to many things in my life and I don't care to be one for solar panels. I have a big group 31 deep cycle battery, 100 ish amp hours, I want to add a solar panel to assist / prolong the amount of power I can use. It does not need to be able to recharge the battery in 1 day, but I would like to be able to add %25 / %50 time untilt he battery is dead. IE, if it is sunny I want to be able to have power in the camper for 4 days instead of 2 or 3 days. So, bat: 100 amp hours 2 - 2w leds inside 3 or 4 hours a night 1 - 10w led for light maybe 1 hours a night ( external spot light) 1 - radio say 3 to 5 amps. charge 2 cell phones Right now I can get 2 full days of camping without plugging into the trailer plug on the truck to charge. If I NEED power I can always just plug in the 7pin plug and start the truck. How big of a panel do I need to get? 50w should = ~ 30 amp hours per day if I get 8 hours of sun?

I was getting confused also about the 2nd gen joints being linked haha.

Said it time and time again, Moog will never get another cent of mine.

I'd do faolctory joints against if they lasted that long the first time.

Any ecm hardware wise will work ,but it will have to be flashed. I have heard that smarty can do that

Been there, done that. finally replaced all the hardlines with this softline kit. the vibration of our cummins really tears up the metal lines.

as I expected a dumb mistake. I forgot I was mess with creating 2 can channels for communication....so I assigned a new pin to the can channel, then I got side tracked and walked away before I changed it back to the right pin for the canbus controller.

I replaced the outer wood pieces the roof itself was good enough to leave. Reused the metal for the roof since it was in good shape. Still 2 piece. Roof.

At some point in the last couple days I made a change and broke the can bus message send code somehow....I can't wait to figure out what I did and feel stupid haha. It's a shame because I had some pretty neat code in place since the last change...that I didn't backup lolol.

I bought OEM spicers when I did mine. Typically if the OEM part lasted 150k+ I always try to use them again.

Alright the code is ready for testing. Here is a snippet to show my train of thought. if ( BufferAdjust >= 2){ if(LastOutTPS > InputCorrected + 13 || LastOutTPS < InputCorrected - 125){ // 13 is aprrox %5 TPS change for increasing TPS, 125 is about %50 TPS change for anti bark. if(BufferCount > BufferAdjust){ BufferCount = 0; if(LastOutTPS < InputCorrected){ APPSOutput = LastOutTPS + 1; }else { APPSOutput = LastOutTPS - 1; } }else {BufferCount++;} }else {APPSOutput = InputCorrected ; } }else {APPSOutput = InputCorrected ; } Pretty much it will adjust TPS input once every defined period. you can adjust that period ( different section of code) from 0 to 2 seconds. If you adjust the period down to 0 then it skips the above code. If it the code runs it will increase or decrease TPS input by 1 until the TPS that was commanded was reached. Pretty much the TPS from the arduino should follow the requested TPS input from the apps as slow or fast as it configured via the Period defined.

Use the part number lookup tool to see if they are the same part number. Go to articles > 2nd gen late> the part number lookup > then select a year.

Spent all day working on the camper and it is buttoned up with new roof wood and a new canvas. Started with If anyone needs a canvas for a pop-up camper give bear Creek canvas a call. Very happy with the quality and fit of the canvas.

Opacity testing from the tailpipe.

Yep, In El paso county colorado, diesel trucks need to be emission tested every year. Emissions are coming across the board.