Me78569

cant do it on early 2nd gens without re tapering the knuckles.

Mike has found a place that says they can rebuilt the ecm for our trucks. He was happy with their service with his ABS module. I think they are Module masters out of boise. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10753-random-abs-light-and-weird-braking-performance/ Ill wait for mike to chime in more

Looks to me like the end of the core is leaking coolant. Kinda blue for coolant but I suppose it could be the copper interacting with coolant.

Do a hotwire test to be %100 sure, but I am thinking a vp44 is in your future.

At least you know the issue %100. sucks to deal with the parts stores on this. They just don't understand the issue fully,

This will show the progress in installing the Holset he351ve into my 2nd gen Cummins Second Gen Cummins should be considered 94-02 but there may be some difference depending on year. I will update as I go along. This is not dealing with the controller needed for the he351ve. The thread that covers the controller can be found here The Holset He351 ve vgt turbo was found on the Cummins 6.7 L trucks on late 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks. It is a very tough turbo and was selected for use due to the ability to improve low throttle boost and the built in Exhaust brake. It should be good for near enough to 500 hp not to matter. Parts - HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125) - t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150) - 2x he351ve turbo exhaust gaskets ($10) - 1x hx35 exhaust gasket ($5) - 4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10) - 5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5) - 10 x 5/8" pipe clamps. - T3 oil drain ( ebay, if I was to do it again I would have gotten one with a bend in it to help with the oil drain. - 2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store I - HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it. I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale. - You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos. went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE ($85) - You will need a 2.75" to 3" silicon boot reducer and clamps for this to work. There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also. unsure on that but you can try. I got min efrom www.siliconintakes.com First Specs on the Turbos LEFT Holset HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min vs RIGHT Holset HE351ve 60/68/3-25 69ish lb/min The Install Start pulling the old turbo off Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal. Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them. Take your time use PB Blaster or similar. Bolt the adapter flange to the manifold. The short bolts go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the top holes of the flange. You will need to use the hx35 exhaust gasket between the manifold and the first section of the Adapter plate. Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used. you can see the bolt hole in question. Use the 5/8" coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose. You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve. Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed. this is a PITA to say the least. I had to cut mine out. The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow. Next it is time to pull apart the turbo into it's 3 sections. The turbo weights a lot so it is much easier to install it one section at a time. There are 2vband clamps that hold it together, one fo the compressor housing and one for the exhaust housing. Once the turbo is apart attach the other half of the flange adapter to the exhaust housing of the turbo. You will need to install one of the he351ve gaskets between the flange and the turbo. Use the long bolt for the through hole on the exhaust housing. I also had to cut one of the bolts to make it fit better. Without cutting the bolt I couldn't clock the center as nicely as I wanted. Ensure you remote the alignment dowels out of the compressor cover and exhaust housing. This will allow you to clock the turbo as you need. Once you have the flange tightly bolts to the turbo you can install the exhaust housing. ENSURE you put the last he351ve turbo gasket between the 2 sections of the adapter flange. It is somewhat hard to center it, but not impossible. Tighten down the 4 Allen head bolts supplied with the kit to hold the flanges together. You will need to tighten them very tight. In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut. This will allow you to clock the center section of the turbo to within the 30* off vertical for the oil drain spec'd by holset. Next you need to install the Center section of the turbo. I would practice this beforehand on a bench to get the feel for it Take your time doing this as the fins on the vgt section must slide into the exhaust housing in their slots. This can be tricky, I found it best to extend the vgt all the way out and then try and sldie it in gently by rotating slightly. Here you can see the Center Section installed. Notice the clocking of the center section. You will need to loosed the oil supply line and rearrange it to make it bend nicely. Follow the hard oil drain tube down the the rubber joiner and remove the clamp holding the hard tube on. You will slip your PFE hose into the joiner and tighten it. This hose is not under pressure so you just need to ensure it is a good fit. Run your pfe hose to the oil drain on the turbo, using a hose clamp to hold it on. You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections. I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt. I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp. I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work. Then install the Compressor cover onto the turbo. Be careful not to damage the compressor fins. Once the housing is on tighten the vband clamps tight enough to hold the housing, but not too tight as to keep you from rotating the housing. Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to 3" reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the inter cooler. Align all boots and tighten down the clamps. Once everything is lined up tighten the vband clamp so that the compressor housing can't move. Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block. I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it. Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line. Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose. You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together. Then install the air filter and you should be good to go. Check for any coolant or oil leaks. there you go the holset he351ve has been installed into your 2nd gen Cummins. Some Videos Exhaust brake apply at 55 in 3rd with TC locked. Turbo builds 50ish psi of backpressure quickly. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyvpx-p6e5U Here you can see smoke output from standstill at %50 throttle. You can see it clears up nicely http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx681iLXSvw Sea Level smoke at %100 throttle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rc2NSMaPYCc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m3sPPji2gs View full Cummins article

coolant?

Agree'd unless you are willing to pony up for some VERY nice tires I wouldn't drive the 2wd cummins

Yep, vastly different depends on the person. I am 6'2" maybe 3 depending on the day and come in around 200 ish, but I am overweight, For whatever reason I really struggle to put on muscle mass. Stick and bones genes I suppose, so I really should be around #185, but that quickly turns into unhealthly looking. but I don't worry about it much, I stay active, and try to eat healthy and no issues so far.

I cut most grains out, other than beer, and within a few weeks I was down a good amount . Meat a veggie for me most of the time.

congrads man! life can throw you a curve ball and get this all off. It doesn't take much inactivity to cause issues. keep up the good work!

Good to know. I figured the light source location wouldn't match the halogen bulbs, but the proof is in the puddling. I am very happy to report that I have my lights aimed nicely now and WOW is all I can say. very happy.

Did you try unplugging your alternator? I hate to say it but %99.99 of the time unlock issues are due to the alternator.

Pin A of the switch is the ground for the IAT, You should see A on the plug itself.

The issue is VERY likely in the ground wire running from the IAT. It is the Bare wire in the harness. I am betting it is broken. Use a multi meter on the "A" pin of the IAT plug, either of them, and test for continuity to the back of the switch where the 4 resistors come together.

honestly MPG doesn't really seem to change between vane positions. I can set the veins to wide open cruise at 65 with 0 drive and 0 boost and get 22 mpg, If I set the vanes to 9cm I sit at 5-7 psi boost and 10 psi drive again stay right at 22mpg. My current tires dropped my mileage by about 3 due to their weight. Still 235/85/16's but they are a lot heavier than my last tires. As for traction control that's in the right foot

Well I haven't been able to really beat on it much due to the roads being too icy to put power down, but I can tell that I have gained significant power across the board now that I am no longer getting strange shaft speed readings. Pretty excited to turn the fuel up some and see what happens.

That''s great news. If I see green grass on my Christmas trip I might loose it.

Very unlikely it might come and go. When it happens again, pull over unplug the alternator amd see what happens.

Yes. A lot of the big box stores sell junk alternators that have not been fully rebuilt. Unhook the alternator and go for a test drive.

Better Headlights for your 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Truck Parts Needed:: Morimoto Projector Kit ( ensure you get the 9004 kit with the High beam controller AKA Motocontrol and the longer thread reflector) Clear lense housings ( not required, but way better output, ensure housings are aimable.) Flat head Screw driver Phillips Screw Driver T15 torx screw driver 10mm socket extension / 10mm open ended wrench Oven Epoxy Why to upgrade to Bi-xenon Projectors It's no secret that 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Headligts are terrible from the factory. There are various things you can do to help, Britebox relay system, bulbs, sport conversion, and my least favorite.....HID's, or a Projector retrofit like this. While the retrofit is the most costly I believe that it is the best choice. No tonly do you get to upgrade to xenon bulbs, but you upgrade to projectors that were designed for the xenon bulb, which is key. I truly hate seeing guys throwing HID's into their halogen AKA oem housings and claiming that output is great for only $50. What they don't relize is that when you throw a differently configured bulb into a halogen housing you are going to scatter light. The key to not scattering light, AKA blinding oncoming traffic is ensuring that the reflector housing is engineered for the bulb that is in it. The distance of the filmate is key when it comes to how light reflects in the housing. As you can see here moving the filmate, or installing a different type of bulb throws everything off. This is why I always prefer that if you are going to run different lights that you ensure the housing is right for the bulb. since the Morimoto projectors are bulb for a xenon mini h1 bulb you don't have to worry about it. You can have your cake and eat it too. The Design of the Morimoto Mini H1 Projector headlights You can see from the above that the Shield, or Cutoff Plate ensures that the light is reflected and projected in a manner than doesn't blind people. The result of a sheild in the up position does this You can clearly see the cutoff and how it prevents oncoming traffic from being blinded. Here is a closer look at the Cutoff Shield To activate you High Beams the shield is pulled down allowing light to be projected without being cutoff. The result is Ok that is enough on why I choose the Morimoto Mini H1 Bixenon projectors as the new headlights for my 2nd Gen Dodge Ram. Break Down of the Projectors This is most of the hardware you will get with your kit. The nice thing about the Morimoto kit is it allows you to install the projectors into the OEM bulb socket. This allows you to retain the OEM aiming ablility. the only hole you will need to drill is for the High Beam wiring. Sport Housings I decided to jump to sport lights in the middle of this process. These are the lights I got from Ebay. I am VERY happy with them. Amazon Sport Headlight Housings Link PN: 55077025ac 55077025AG They required a little cutting to get the projectors set in them, but nothing bad. You can get extended threads projectors so I would suggest that. Removing your housings to remove your Stock 2nd Gen Dodge Ram Headlights you will need a 10mm socket and an extension. There are 3 bolts holding the light in. Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the light in (Red dots in picture). The lower inner bolt is somewhat hard to get to. I found that going from under the truck was easiest. Next pull the light straight back to pull it out of the push fittings. You should feel it "pop" out 3 or 4 inches. Next remove your blinker bulbs and disconnect the headlight bulb. Next remove the housing by sliding them towards the outside of the truck, twisting somwhat to free the housing. Take your time as this can be a stubborn part to get out. once you have both housings out you can go inside. Removing the headlight lens The easiest way I know of to get the lens off the housing is to use the oven. I set my ovens temp to 170*f and put the housings in for 30 minutes or so to heat the glue and make the lens easy to remove. Ensure you keep and eye on the housing while it is in the over. I have seen some ovens that are not accurate on heat and ended up melting the housing. Once your housings are to temp remove them and carefully use a flathead screw driver to pry the lens open. Move slowly around the lense and pry the lens off. you should feel it release, don't pry hard, if the glue isn't letting go put it back in the oven for another 10 minutes, increase temp if needed. Your end result should be like this It is key to notice that if you are using the OEM lenses that your output will be less than wonderful. you can see in the image above the Fluted design to help scatter the halogen bulb output. This however makes the cutoff line fuzzy. This is why a clear lens is worth having. Installing the Projector Remove all of your hardware from the projector so there is nothing on it. The threaded section should fit into the OEM bulb hole. Insert the projector into the housing from the front. Turn the housing over and insert the rubber washer, then the alighment washer, then the locknut. Tighten the lock nut down somewhat snug. Don't over tighten as you will have to level the projector by rotating the projector in the housing until the output is level. The housing back should look like this The Front will look like this Note the Red Dot. you will need to drill a small hole here to run the high beam wires though. Once you have your projector in the housing, install the Bulb holder onto the back of the projector, there are threaded holes for the small phillips screws. Install the bulb then the retaining clip. Installing the wiring The Morimoto Wiring Harness only requires connection to one of the 2 oem plugs. The wiring harness looks like this you need to make connection to the Battery + then a body ground on the end of each Ballast Output. The Input from the car plug will be a female socket 9004 connection. I choose to install the bulk of the harness on the Passengers side since I have more space over there. This system already draws power right form the battery so there is no need for a Bright Box type relay system. You will need mount the ballast's one on each side near the back of the light. I choose to the left and right of the radiator right above the light. Plug your ballast into the "Ballast output" plug from the harness. Leveling / Tuning your lights after everything is reinstalled into the housings you will need to put them into the truck and level the projectors. This needs to be done before you put the lense back on. Connect the bulbs to the wiring in the truck. Install the housings and install the bolts to ensure that hte housing is tight and won't move. You will need a large flat surface and level ground to do this. Park 20ish yards away from the wall on flat ground, turn the lights on. The truck will need to be running to trip the ballasts and ignite the bulbs. Once the bulbs are on you can kill the truck. Look at the output of the light once side at a time and level the cutoff line by rotating the projector in the housing slowly until you are happy with the level of the light You can see in this picture that the projector needs to be rotated slight clockwise. Once you are happy with the level of the cutoff remove the housing and tighten the locknut down. Be careful not to move the housing or projector. Repeat the process for both lights. Remember you are not aiming hte lights, only leveling the cutoff line. Ensure that the hole you drilled for the high beams is sealed with RTV or epoxy. Reinstall the lense Once you are happy with both sides use some epoxy to reattach the lenses to the housing. Ensure that it is a tight seal. Allow time for the epoxy to setup. Reinstalling housings and aiming headlights Reinstall the housings and install all bolts ensuring that the lights are held tight. Connect all lights and wiring to the housings. Now you will need ot aim your new lights. You will need the T20 torx to aim the lights. Park 25ish yards away from the large flat wall on level ground. Typical rule of thumb is you want your light hot spots to be directly in front of the bulb. Easiest way to ensure this is done is to pull close to the wall, aim the lights left and right until it is right in front of the bulb, then slowly reverse ensure that the hotspot does not move left or night as you backup. If the hotspot moves left or right adjust the housings to counter act this. Next you need to aim your lights up / down. Again rule of thumb is you want your hotspot at 25 yards to be 1- 4" lower than the level of your headlights. IE pointed down slightly. This will take some adjusthing. The cutoff lenses will keep you from needing to point your lights down very much. Depending on the height of your truck you might be able to get away with 1" of drop at 25 yards. The higher your truck is lifted the move drop your lights will need to keep from blinding people. This might take some trial and error. Drive around some, if peolle flash you drop your lights some until you are no longer flashed. In the end you should end up with lights that are much better than OEM. Your cutoff's should be straight and you should have a VERY wide beam. the ground is not level but you get the idea. this article should work for all 2nd gen Dodge Ram trucks 1994 , 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999. 2000, 2001, 2002. View full Cummins article

Does the ecm wait for idle state in the truck to trigger the post grid heater cycles? Just curious how that works.

Seeing at the interior of these trucks is about the worst possible build quality I would say some guys would like to see another guys work.