rlane547

Draw straw install finished and 1/4 tank fuel issue resolved. That was the worst fuel strainer basket I've ever seen. Couldn't even see through it.

Thanks Mike. So I can eliminate the filler neck tee now and both of my fuel returns will go directly into the draw straw/basket

I have my tank down and the module removed ready for the draw straw. I noticed there is a port on the draw straw for return fuel from the fass. Right now I'm running it back to the filler neck. Is there any benefit running it to the module?

Sometimes I wish you guys would lie to me and say everything is fine don't worry. Just kidding. Looks like I'm taking it off. Too big of a gamble not to check.

I had two different questions and just lumped them in to one thread. First, does anyone have a good write up for draw straw install? Going to do it Friday and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Second, I just read somewhere that the 24v's also have the killer dowel pin problem. In my ignorance I thought it was only the 12v. If so how prevalent is it? I worked for a company with a fleet of over 100 6bt and 4bt engines and never saw the killer dowel pin however I did see the bolts back out of the housing on two occasions. I guess I'm wondering if this should be a 911 issue?

Don't forget gov solenoid, sensor, speed sensor, band adjustment, and might as well install drain plug while your there.

Do the shift kit. You won't regret it.

Low fluid was the culprit. Everything is back to normal now.

Ed, I just did all of that and the shift kit two months ago. Only thing is that the other day I drained some fluid a couple days ago because it had bubbles on the dipstick. Going to put the fluid back and see what happens.

I think I've figured out the stalling problem. Believe it or not this is the first time the fuel has been below a half a tank since I bought the truck 4 months ago. I thought my fuel pressure gauge was crapping out because it was all over the place and its a cheap GlowShift. Driving to work this morning the truck quit in the road. Finally started it back and made it to the fuel station. Filled er up and fuel pressure gauge went back to normal and no more problems. I need a draw straw. Now the problem is in the tranny. The last two mornings I've pulled up to a stop sign then went to go and truck acts like its in neutral. Finally it engages and I don't have any more issues.

I replaced my APPS sensor this evening and went out for a test drive. I drove it harder than usual and noticed at WOT I can hear a flapping sound from the engine compartment. Kind of like shaking out a dry shirt. Only happens at WOT though. Fuel psi is 15 and boost is 28 at WOT. Also when I pulled into the driveway and slowed down the engine stumbled and almost died. Then came back to normal. Any ideas?

Good tip. I'll give it a shot. But if its still going in and out with the alternator fuse removed doesn't that eliminate the alternator altogether?

Just installed the Rock Solid bushing today and wanted to share my thoughts. After repairing my seized steering shaft I went through the directions and started the install. Instructions were detailed and helpful. I performed the install on the truck and found it easier to remove left front tire and fender skirt. After that it was pretty straightforward. I did make a longer installer out of pvc pipe so that I could drive it in from the fender well. The results are very good. No more rattling column and steering is tight. All in all it was a good investment of time and money.

Reinstalled alternator fuse and test drove. I guess it didn't really make it worse because it's doing the exact same thing. Guess I can rule out Alternator again. Can also rule out speed sensor and wiring because I replaced the sensor and inspected the wiring, all good. Can rule out grounds and other connections because all check out good. Both batteries are in good condition and charged correctly. Been through all of the Timbo sites checklist and everything checks out. Looks like I'll be buying an APPS sensor. Presently have the negative cables unhooked and going to do APPS reset and test drive again. Seems like every time I do the reset it runs good for a while so maybe that's the key. If you guys have any other suggestions please let me know.

So on my way home it started acting crazy as usual. But get this. I pulled my alternator fuse just to double check and it actually made the lock/unlock worse, a lot worse. Anybody have a clue why?

Doorman p/n 917602. Any of the parts stores can get it. At Napa they crossed the number to their brand and had it in stock. You can also get it from RockAuto. Cost is about 20.00 everywhere.

Drove to work this morning and actually tried to get the T/C to act up and Nothing. Truck drove great. This is like chasing a ghost. I did pick up a new speed sensor. Will see if that makes any difference.

Yeah that's what I meant. It runs 0.02-0.03.

Good tip. I removed the wiring harness, cleaned connections and applied dielectric grease but I did not remove the sensor itself. I will be doing that tomorrow. Thanks.

Yeah, I ran a new ground wire that was a little heavier outside of the mounting bracket. Thanks for the tip on the Timbo APPS.

I had an Apps code not long ago. When I checked the sensor the bolts weren't tightened all the way so I tightened them, did the Apps reset and it ran fine for a while. Could the Apps sensor cause this problem. Seems like everything I've read say that when people have this problem the first thing they do is change the apps but it doesn't fix it. Do you think the apps may actually be my problem in this case?

The dtt noise filter looks to be a little more advanced than the bd version. Funny thing is that the truck doesn't seem to do it when towing.

I have the transgo shift kit and blocked the passage for the lockup but have not yet installed the lockup switch. Maybe that's an option.

Once you get past 60 its fine. It didn't do it at the usual 40-45mph either. I'm beyond baffled and I work on International Maxxforce's and Ford 6.0, 6.4, and 6.7's for a living.