Nekkedbob

I have a 1998.5 and have owned my truck for 13 years and only activated the RWAL twice and it didn't work both times. I now have a ABS light on and changed the sensor on the rear end with on joy. I have had it to all of the dealers within 100 miles of my house and it appears that their DRB111s can talk to it but are not functional enough to read the abs module or reset the tire size ( all if them looked really beat). My first question is there a way to determine if the module in the dash is bad or the hydraulic unit under the hood is bad. The second question is only because I am leaving on a 5000 mile trip in 8 days and I would like to kill the ABS light on the dash and still have the brake light in the dash functional along with the speedometer. My speedometer is still working and I have never seen it drop out so I don't think that I have a broke wire to the sensor. My third question is there a way to kill the power to the hydraulic unit under the hood to keep it from activating other then unplugging it from the harness. I am 70 years old and learned high performance driving before ABS and have no problem with it not working for this trip but don't like to leave things broken. \

Put the old style one in my 94 and loved it. When I bought my 98 ten years ago it was one of the first things that I put in it.

The sport head light was what I thought about first but the clear ones on my 2005 do so good was why I am asking about them. I wanted to stay with the halogens mostly because I can find them where I am at and most truck stops when I travel. I did look at projectors but still reading reviews on them and its seem to be real cheap or too expensive. I would like to hear about anybodies experiences with them.

That is why i am asking. I have read many reviews that talk about the the poor pattern that some have. As of now I am looking at these but cant find a review on them. https://www.carid.com/1998-dodge-ram-headlights/lumen-euro-headlights-646483160.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|2500

I do most of my night driving in a 2005 dodge caravan with the clear lens and it does so much better then my truck . What I am hoping is that the clear lens will match them.

I need to replace my headlights as I have polished them far to many times and would like some real world experience from people that have used them. I am in a budget but don't want the cheapest out there. I have about 250 buck to blow and don't want to do it twice. What I have decided on is the clear lens euro style with halogens. I have spent far to much time reading forums and searching the internet and it is just overwhelming . The biggest deal is that they need to be adjustable from the front and if two piece where the adjuster moves only the headlight is any better then one piece. I don't drive my beloved truck at night very often because I live in a high deer population area and we all know how good the stock lights are. Thanks

Here is the one that I am looking at. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B000KOVC12/ref=sr_1_5?crid=O8BHWPQ7YLOV&keywords=buss%2Bmrcb&qid=1682022011&sprefix=%2Caps%2C329&sr=8-5&th=1

I was looking at a Bussman 150 amp unit. Some of the testing on Youtube it was the only one that did not get warm to hot under heavy load.

For those of you that did the mod what brand of circuit breaker did you use and have you had any problems with them. I am finishing off mine and also modding my travel trailer to use lithium batteries and wanted to use the same style so I can use it as a disconnect.

Look for a adjustable Hobbs switch. About 9 years ago I found one at Summit Racing but I dont remember the number. The one that I got as I remember it was adjustable from 8 to 16 pounds and I set mine to turn on at 10 and off at 12 @ pound ( dead band ) .

Well I got a different thermostat from a Peterbilt dealer today and it looked like a stant but was a 180 degree unit so I didn't take it and they don't spec a 190 degree for the motor that the parts guy could find. I am waiting on one from Napa. I found a good parts man finally that can dig deeper in their catalog then any one else that I have seen. I should see the new one by Thursday as it was coming from Tennessee.

From what Ive read the early 24 valves had a real oil pressure gauge. I know that the graduations are useless but on the early ones that the dealers didn't get questioning oil pressure they do go up and down with temp and RPM. I have got mine hot and if done over a longer period of time the temp gauge does read as close as can be expected. I am still running my old thermostat until I find the correct one. I still have the one that I removed 6 years ago that was working (stashed under my seat with spare sensors and filters). I have a different ones coming from Cummins and NAPA Tuesday and I will find out if they are correct. And just a FYI I know that Ford was doing the dummie gauge as early as the 70s on the vehicles that had oil pressure gauges. I had 2 different trucks made in the 70s and after on oil pump shaft sheared in off in my first one I got digging deeper then I wanted and found that it was a common thing.

not a problem . You have some good info.

And back on subject. I installed one of the 12 valve thermostat late yesterday and went for a drive of about 35 miles on the 2 lanes around me. The thermostat did not open until 200 degrees and stayed open untill 178 degrees and swung up and down for the hole trip reading off my Scangage2 that is mounted on my dash. This morning I installed a different 12 vale thermostat that I had but not been installed. On this trip I also went on the freeway ( 70 MPH) and it did hold the temp steady at 70 MPH but but varied just the same below 55 MPH. I thought that maybe I screwed something up so I reinstalled the old thermostat and everything is back to normal. Something that I did notice with the second 12 valve thermostat was that the dash temp gauge reaction was so slow that if that was your only gauge you would never see much temp change. Because I have gotten so used to the Scangage2 the only dash gauge that I look at is the oil pressure.

The thermostat was still working but I was noticing a slight rise in temp and a bigger swing in temp so being I had it apart i decided to change it. The OE thermostat appears to be a 180 degree so I will run it for the next month and see how it does. If I decide that I don't like it I will try the new larger one and see how it goes.