lrhull

Has anyone used a injector fuel cleaner does it work is it safe? How often do I need to change my BAAF? How long does it last?

Update. Diesel mechanic narrowed it down to the ECM so we have ordered a new one. I don't think I'll be putting the high idle switch back on. Its basically the first generation switch I've had to fix wiring and stuff several times. The new switch looks like it's made alot better.

I checked fuses and relay in the fuse box and they are good. I don't have a boost fooler or any chip on it right now. The high idle switch is removed so everything is stock. Still have water in fuel light on and code 236, 380, 382 and no grid heater. Runs fine, but idles a little high. I think I fried the computer.

So now I have code po236 map sensor

I'll try to make a long story short. I had the clutch changed a few weeks ago. Because of where I mounted the high idle switch down by the gear shifter I removed it. It's one of the first I switches I got it from DAP. I previously already changed the open wire in the harness because it started having problems. So back to this problem, I put the switch back in and the other day the IAT temps seemed weird on my scan guage 2 so I removed the switch to check it all out and make sure all connections were good. While doing this the power wire going to the switch for the indicator light came off. Me being the idiot I aim, I solder it back to the wires coming from the resistors. I checked everything else and it all seemed good. I put the switch back in, turn on the key, but did not start, check engine light came on water in fuel came on. So I took the switch out and realized what I did. I plugged everything back in without the switch, cleared the codes and started it, the water in fuel light is still on and codes po380 and 382 are coming up and I don't think my grid heater is coming on. So what did I do by sending power through the harness to the IAT water temp sensor etc? Where do I even start?

I'm going crazy just want to listen to the radio it doesnt have to be expensive sounding. I hooked up the the blue wire and now I have power to the amps and sound. But drivers side still does not work so my stock stereo is probably just fine. I went to the junk yard and found the ten wire speaker with amp. Now I have sound to the door but no sound to the tweater in the A post or the rear door. I also got a couple more tweeters and rear speakers but still no sound.

What does the blue wire hook to on the truck harness? It has 4 plugs. 1 ground 2 big ones that have speakers, power, etc and 1 that has 2 wires that I think must be to the amp. I don't know which wire to hook to ones violet and one is white with a black stripe. How do I test the amps to see if they are working?

Who's the audio specialist? So my stereo speakers started months ago cutting out intermittently sometimes the right sometimes the left sometimes the little tweeter in the A post. Back always worked. But now I'm down to just having a left door speaker. Question is it the stereo, speakers or amplifiers hooked to the speakers? Has anyone had this problem? I thought I'd put in a new stereo but then it had no sound then I found out about the whole amplifier thing powering up I don't want to wire it up correctly if the amps are bad in the first place. So now I'm back trying to figure out what's not working in the first place.

I went to the Dodge dealer and got the mopar recommended fuild it's been almost 2 years and running good

I just found tonight I have a leak on #3. It's on the outside of the manifold. I've had this before on I think 2 and 4 and I had a local diesel shop fix it they changed the o ring. This time I thought I might take a stab at it. So if I understand correctly I can use a 3/4 wrench on the nut, loosen the high pressure line and pull it apart, and the o ring should be right there, change it and put it back together? Sounds simple.

It seems like I've asked this before. After starting truck in 6 cylinder high idle can I go straight to MPG or after its warmed up turn off truck and then re start to get the MPG to to work correctly?

Got it fixed. changed out the bare wire.

I think I found it. Where the harness splits the bare wire was not looking good pretty much no connection. Why use a bare wire clearly not good. So time to replace it. While I'm at it if I can find something good I'm going to put a plug/connection by the switch and secure up the switch better. It will be easier to shove one plug through the firewall then 4. I'll let you you know how it goes might take me a few days. If not I'll be buying a new one.

I took the whole thing out and as far as I can tell it looks good nothing loose on the switch. I did find some how the cable was caught behind the emergency brake it had a little pinch but I cut open the outer coving and the wires all look good . So could you tell me how to trouble shoot this with my onhm meter what setting which wires to check all the resistors in the switch and what they should be?

Yes I got it from DAP (I live 15 min away) it's has the white cables.

My high idle Mpg switch has worked great until today. If I put it on Mpg my iat temp on my scan gauge II reads -41 and I immediately geat a trouble code p0113. If I put it on high idle it does not high ldle anymore and the iat temp is -41 and a trouble the code p0118. what's going on here its not even been 2 years since I purchased the switch.

So I'm just double checking since I've read different things. What fluid do I put in my Nv5600 that calls for the Texaco stf 1864 that is not made any more?

So just today I was driving in town and both me and my daughter thought we could smell a faint electrical burning smell I had the ac going. I'm not so sure it was coming from my truck. However my volts are lower than normal and I can hear a humming whining noise coming from the alternator that wasn't there before. So is the humming a sign of a bad alternator?

So that's a normal noise? I changed the evaporator last fall when I did the heater core and today I changed the valve things in the high and low ports.

I'm currently trying to figure out why I have to recharge my AC every spring I'm looking for leaks. Question is what are the sections of tubing that have the tin foil like tape on them? The one behind the battery I can hear flowing or leaking in it after turning the truck off for a minute or so.

So what brand should I buy?

I'm looking at going with moog tie rods over the cheaper ones at the auto parts store. Has any tried moog products?

Where's the best place to get the whole kit to replace all my tie rods etc.

I need batteries for the 5th wheel I just purchased. What do you guys use? What keeps a charge longer and last longer? 2 12v or 2 6v stacked to make 12v?

I'm purchasing a fifth wheel and it all ready has the axles flipped. Will there be a diference in towing or safety? Is it really needed?