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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. and time consuming. I spend more per oil change, but do them less frequently. All of my vehicles are on a 12 month OCI. Last time I did the math I spend less in the end, both in time and money. Heck the latest Cummins comes with a 12 month/15K mile OEM OCI, up from 6 months/15K miles... Personally I think they should have been at 12 months a long time ago.
  2. Oil analysis will tell you the health of the oil based on contaminants and oil life. You would need an analysis with TBN, as that's the oils ability to fight off the acids that are a byproduct of combustion. It's usable for gas too, just not as common. It's helpful when trying to establish extended oil drain intervals. Without an aux filter it's harder to sample. Some will change the oil and get a sample from the stream mid drain, others will use a siphon tube down the dipstick. You could also run a slightly higher quality full synthetic and just change it every 12 months, or 15K miles without analysis. Amsoil is what I run and change my oil every 12 months, but rarely hit 15K on it. Amsoil is an extended drain interval oil, so it doesn't need to be tested within their published extended drain intervals. It just depends on the effort you want to put into it.... also nothing wrong with conventional oil and 7500-10000 mile dumps like @dripley does. I prefer synthetic myself, but lots of people just run what's cheapest.
  3. That's the filter. It's not as easy to find, but they are around. I usually find the best price on Amazon these days and buy them by the pair. There is a pair on Amazon now for $27. If you don't want to spring for a oil analysis then dumping at 10K is not going to be an issue.
  4. At 10K mikes I would do an oil sample and see what it looks like. You should be able to get 12-15 miles out of the oil with that kind of use. I do recommend the Donaldson DBL7349 oil filter. It’s performance is unbeatable.
  5. Oils are a lot better today than they were in 2001. Even my 2005 TJ has out dated and too short of OCI's. What does 7500 miles look like for you? How much towing, city, hours, months?
  6. 3rd gen needed a change so I would guess a 2nd gen does, but I can’t confirm. Hopefully someone who has done it will chime in.
  7. But Ford owns Cummins... Sounds like some serious assumptions going on. I’ll need to actually see something that’s believable first. Besides, you can hear a ford power steering pump 2 miles away, not a Dodge one
  8. It's a good design, finally. It took a few iterations after the release in MY08.5 to get it right. Make sure you get the latest a greatest design. It has alignment pins that keep the tow tie rods in proper alignment during adjustment. First I've heard that... want to elaborate? Besides, this thread isn't talking about either of those parts.
  9. I am always amazed at how many people post their vacation info on forums and other social media (FB, etc). I tell my wife she cannot post vacation photos until after we get home. She understands now, but it took a little convincing.
  10. Slowly and naturally carbon monoxide becomes carbon dioxide with other compounds in the air... so it's a self healing problem. While vehicle emissions do create CO they are not the only source. Wildfires and volcanoes are major contributors to atmospheric CO. The earth has been dealing with CO long before we started burning fossil fuels, and will continue to deal with it long after were extinct.
  11. For batteries that aren't too gone you can use a charger like the NOCO 3500 with it's repair feature. It's very well priced, has multiple charge profiles, and is also a good tender if needed. I've equalized a few batteries with it, and use it to keep my '18 charged when I don't drive it.
  12. Yes and no. Modern machining on stock engines is probably as good as, or better, than custom machining 20-30 years ago. Higher rpms and higher power outputs have demanded an improvement. Things have come a long way and manufacturing tighter tolerances will allow for thinner oils without longevity issues. Oil also isn't what it used to be, its MUCH better. Things get better, but change is sometimes hard. Yes thinner oils are there for efficiency reasons, but it may not be a bad thing. If the application is a 1500 that doesn't tow I'd have no issues running a 5w-20. If you tow frequently then a 5w-30 is probably a better option. A 5w-20 synthetic is probably perfect for occasional light towing. I did noticed that in the 2014 manual it talks about above and below 14K GCW for 5w-20 vs 5w-30. In the 2018 manual that blurb is gone and it just states that 5w-30 is acceptable for all platforms if 5w-20 is not available. There is nothing wrong with longer maintenance intervals on modern equipment. Between the improvements in the machining and the excellent fuel injection the oil isn't abused like it was on carborated or older EFI systems. I did have to laugh when I got my 05 TJ with a 4.0 thou. It was the 2nd to last year of that motor and maintenance intervals were the same was when it came out, 3K/3mo. There is no way in hell I'm changing the oil that often, it's absolutely not necessary even on that old tractor motor. It will get 12 month changes with good synthetic and good filters, and I'll save money and time.
  13. There is a 2005 FSM in the downloads section and it has wiring in it. Yes, there are big wiring changes from 03 to 05.
  14. Heavier oil may effect the MDS feature of the 1500, but the 2500/3500 trucks call for a 5w-30. That being said towing will have a much larger effect on oil temp than ambient temp will, as the coolant heats the oil up more than ambient. If you don't tow with it then 5w-20 is likely fine for all conditions and may yield slightly better mileage...which is why they recommend it.
  15. I’ve never experienced any variation in Cummins OE thermostats over 13 years... maybe it’s the application. Maybe they haven’t failed often enough to look at more frequently. Dealer is the operative word, not MOPAR. Of course you’re going to overpay at the dealer.. that’s vehicle servicing 101! So let’s not compare dealer prices to real world prices. The point isn’t just about a 3rd gen Cummins, it’s the fact the NAPA/Wix knowingly fail to meet publish minimum specs, period... I could point to multiple instances, but they aren’t relative to this forum. Why would you ever consider them quality when they don’t care if they meet spec or not? That’s the bigger issue... they are putting their bottom line above yours. Not worth the time or money to shop there if they don’t care about the consumer.
  16. Ha. Other specs have been discussed many times, in threads you belong to. I suppose flow and full open temps aren’t part of the specs You keep using the word specification, but I do not think it means what you think. There absolutely is a “special” specification for oil filters. MOPAR will always use the cheapest manufacturer for their part, and I’ve never seen them triple the price. In fact when I changed the oil on my Jeep, since were taking gas now I guess, I a MOPAR as it was cheaper. That was only for a couple thousand miles thou, I ditched that baby for a better filter. But the point is that the cheapest filter still has to meet the minimum vehicle specific specs. I also don’t think you’ll ever find a Cummins MOPAR oil filter with Fram guts... they are in fact made by Fleetguard and not bad for a OE filter.. must be that special spec. As far as thermostats.. NAPA doesn’t make them either. Cheapest bidder. Maybe they learned their lesson on bad reputation and have stepped it up some. Don’t know, won’t try it. NAPA burned their bridge with me many years ago. Other options have worked far better, so why go back to giving NAPA any of my money?? NAPA fuel filters are another POS item, hell they don’t even meet that “special” spec for 3rd gens.
  17. I don't think that represents national averages... NAPA doesn't get as much praise off of this forum.
  18. Honestly not as bad as I would expect for 90K mikes on only 3 gallons of oil. WTF was he thinking thou? There are oil change reminders on 2016’s. Oh well, some people’s children
  19. If the heater blows hot I would lean more towards a coolant temp sensor than a thermostat. Do you have any way to verify temp? IR gun? IBMobile’s suggestion is a good one. As far as the thermostat, I’ll go against what moparmans says. You couldn’t pay me to run a NAPA thermostat (or anything), I quit buying NAPA garbage many years ago for good reason. They sell cheap crap... but you overpay for it. I will recommend not buying a thermostat from MOPAR thou, as they are generally rebadged and overpriced Cummins parts. Try to get it directly from Cummins. A thermostat is a wear item and needs to be changed more often than many people thing. Often you can’t see it failing on the dash gauge until it’s too late. Big temp swings and late opening are a good sign it’s time for replacement.
  20. Looking at the different pressures you're making, taking into account the elevation of Regina, you are working the primary harder than the secondary.. which we expect with a loose WG on the HX35. Your last test has the primary working at 2.8:1 and the secondary at 1.6:1, which shifted from your initial ratios of 2.5:1 and 1.9:1 respectively. You're in the fat part of the compressor map at 2.8:1 on the HT60. As you can see working the primary harder has good results on drive pressure. 1.4:1 isn't anything i'd worry about. The HX35 is probably going to keep you around that ratio unless you get an external WG and then the benefits are likely not worth the cost.
  21. Assuming those are non-towing EGTs id say you’re doing well. You may have room for a little more fuel, but personally I wouldn’t touch it. Ive always liked a peak of 1350-1400 for non-towing WOT runs on a max effort tune. Sure plenty of guys run hotter, but hotter is where you play the game of chances with your pistons.
  22. You should just go to cooper's website. 265/70R17 is a popular OEM size and available in the Cooper ATP. Sounds like Discount has discounted their knowledge. On a side note I won't use Discount tire, they have yet to be cheaper with better road hazard coverage for the same tires. One of the last few tires in a 17" rated above 3195 lbs. One of these days they will likely get dropped to 3195lbs as well.
  23. 17" tires do have limited weight ratings of 3195lbs. There are a few that are currently above that number, but as they go thru redesign and certification they have to drop to 3195lbs. I've never seen a weight rating on the 3rd gen 17's, but I've also never seen an issue with them when loaded up to 4K lbs on the older 17's with higher load ratings.
  24. The code readers don’t know if the CEL is on or not, they just read stored codes. There are hard codes, which sets the CEL and soft codes that don’t. They are all readable with an OBDII scanner.
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