AH64ID

I don't think the pressure builds, as they have a pressure regulator. The available flow does increase thou. One problem with the high flow rate is filtration, it's very easy with a mechanical to outflow the filters. All the mechanical pumps I have looked at have their own pickup, so they don't pull thru the pump.

iPad Mini for me, iPhone 5S for the wife.. At least for everyday stuff. We also have a Nikon D70S with several lenes, and share some lenses with my mom as well. For the in between stuff we have a Canon PowerShot SX510.

There have been several questions about multiple UDC tunes on a Touch, so here is how mine looks. I have 3 loaded on the Touch. It's not shift on the fly, but still a easy and fast change if needed. Some other things I have noticed the Touch does that the S-06 doesn't do is it keeps your PoD setting between tunes and remembers the tire size, even if you go to stock and back to a tune.

I don't see a truck in your sig that EFI works on??

AD has had a lot of bad press lately, and I don't recall what it was but so has Fuel Lab. I am also not impressed with the filter arrangement (or ratings) on Fuel Lab, as it requires additional filtration. Right now I think FASS is the best way to go for electric, aside from OEM in-tank, and a fuel boss or assassin for mechanical.

I have had the privilege, and pleasure, of testing stuff for MADS/Smarty since the Jr started Beta testing the tunes/Revo in 2008. It has been a lot of fun, and educational on the UDC side, to be able to test stuff.

http://madselectronics.com/SmartyTouch.html I have had this in my truck for a couple months now and it's a very nice display and gauge. I have been running the EGT probe post-turbo and removed my Ultra Gauge. The unit itself is very user friendly, and easy to read. Some of the things I really like are how bright the colors/display is during the day but dim's perfectly at night, and the max value feature. There are many PID's for my 05 that were not available with the UG or SGII, and the 06+ trucks have even more than the 05. For UDC users the Touch will hold multiple tunes for changing between tunes, this is not on the fly but a PC is not required for each UDC tune change.

This is V1.4, it's probably newer. UDC Timing Calculator v1.4.xlsx

Stick with stock rail pressure, 23,206, for now. You can do a lot with 100hp tips and single CP3 without having to increase pressure too high, or stretch out duration. Which version of the calc are you looking at?

x2

What is the poor grounding issue with the senders? Of my 4 pressure senders only 1 is grounded, the EV2's don't need to be grounded as its a 3 wire sender.

I am not 100% sure what TNT calls for, but that seems low. Get him running on UDC before any hardware changes. A hint is to start with a stock duration table. Work on rail pressure and timing, and then some more timing.

Does he know what the commanded rail pressure is? It's hard to say if it's holding pressure or not when you don't know what it is. He might be able to get a little more fuel out of it, but hard to tell. One thing about UDC vs box tunes is that UDC can usually fuel more than the box tunes with the proper rail pressure map. He is at least 200hp of fuel over stock on a single CP3.. not sure how much more is in there, it could be a decent about or it might not be. UDC will let him fine tune that better.

Custom tunes are $300, which includes the VIN dongle for remote tuning. With those tips and the CP3 he is probably about maxed out on fuel at TNT SW1, maybe a little room for more but not too much.

You can program all the gauges for a high or low warning light, such as EGT >1250° or boost >35 psi, or fuel pressure below 3.. I have a CR :-) The back-lighting is also adjustable for intensity, and the needle sensitivity is as well. I have my oil and full pressure gauges less sensitive so I don't see all the minor .5psi changes, but my boost and EGT react as fast as possible.

Time will tell, those symptoms don't sound like a RP sensor.. .but sensors can do funny things.

I have been running EV2's since 2012 and they have been great, but I have had a couple sender issues. All the new senders that ISSPRO sends me look different, so I must be getting into the new style. I have had 1 fuel pressure sender fail, but have since installed a snubber for reducing spikes, and a have had 2 exhaust back-pressure senders fail. The exhaust ones could be partially my fault, they where mounted horizontal and I didn't find out until the 2nd one failed that they need to be vertical. I like the EV2's because I can program the sensitivity of the needle, the warning lights, and the back lighting.

UDC is a great way to go, it has taken a good tuner and made it much better. I write for myself, a few friends, and have also sold quite a few tunes. What SW was your brother running before UDC?

One more thing to add about too big or too small. Be sure to consider the places you tow. If it just on regular roads/highways to a campground with hookups then any length will suffice. If you like to boondock a bigger camper can hinder that. We expected to have a little more troube getting our 30' TT into some of the places we took out 22' TT, but we actually didn't. The only reason we didn't was ground clearance, we gained a LOT. I had to raise the ball on my WDH 4.5" to make the trailer sit level, and then added a 1" taller ball which gave me another 5/8" of height at the tongue. All of that 5" of clearance was below the frame rail, as the tongue design was the same. The new trailer has flipped axles stock, and 225/75R15 tires. Two other things effects towing mileage, and IMHO stability, the enclosed underbelly and length of tongue. A shorter tongue means less air between the truck and camper, and the enclose underbelly allows the air to flow smoothly underneath. Both of those will help a big trailer tow smaller, on flat ground. My longer and heavier TT tows about the same on flat ground as the shorter/lighter one, since the shorter one had a longer tongue and no enclosed underbelly.

Correct. That is why it's important for people to know the actual ratings for their vehicles if they plan to exceed any of the door sticker numbers.

Yeah the 03-12 frame was 35K psi for 2500/3500. The 2013 3500 received the new 50K psi frame, while the 2013 2500 stayed with the 35K psi frame. In 2014 both trucks where on the 50K psi frame.

Yup, nowhere near the axle rating but you would be over GVWR. On most vehicles on the road GVWR is an important number, but IMHO not so important on the SRW 2500 and 3500 trucks. But many people believe that GVWR is not a negotiable limit, they aren't wrong but also they aren't right. If you go off of GVWR then the remaining payload will dictate the trailer. If you, MoparMom, and Diesel are in the pickup and a couple bags of gear then you might only be able to tow a 5500lb 5er amd stay within GVWR. If you do like most and use RAWR then you could tow much heavier. The 11,000 number I posted is the DRW GVWR. I am fairly certain that 2nd generation 2500s and 3500s use the same frame. That means your frame is also rated for 11,000 and you would be safe to operate at that weight. If you exceed the RAWR then suspension enhancements may be needed, along with wheels and tires. It's all gray math, but the data is available to determine true max safe loads.

Michael, those numbers are correct. Your book tow rating is based on GCWR minus basic curb weight and a 150 lb driver. Each pound you add to the truck takes 1 pound from your tow rating. Your 13,400 is based on a "delivery" weight of 6,350lbs. Your GVW is 1K over that, effecting your tow rating based on GVWR. The painfully low GVWR is what does it. With a GVW of 7300 you only have 1500lbs of payload per the door sticker. Take 200lbs out for you and you have 1300lbs available for a pin weight or tongue weight, assuming the hitch is included in your GVW. 1300/.20 = 6500 lbs for a 5er and 1300/.13 = 10,000lbs conventional. Higher or lower pin/tongue weights will effect your tow rating. You have found out what most owners have, GVWR limits tow rating long before GCWR. This is why I dislike the way 2500 and 3500 SRW trucks get this GVWR, as they are severely underrated from design spec. Change your GVWR to the 11K a DRW has and see what that does. That didn't start in 2014, it started in 2003 and probably sooner. 2013 is the only year in recent history with different frames for 2500 and 3500. The 2013 2500 used up the last of the 03-13 frames. Your 2008 DRW has the same frame as my 2005 3500 SRW CTD, my dads 2006 2500 CTD, and my brothers 2006 2500 Hemi. The diesels also share the same brakes, steering, and front axle. The front axle on the hemi is the same, but the rear axle is smaller. Cab and drive config only effects tow rating, not GCWR. Yeah, just the tire part. The only statue I have ever found that talks about axle weight rating is for tag axles. All other axles fall under standard axle limits and tire limits.

Did tires dictate GVWR or RAWR? I am guessing its RAWR, and your FAWR + RAWR < GVWR. My axle is rated for 10,912lbs SRW or DRW, per AAM. Yet Dodge had at least 3 ratings on door stickers. 6,010 on a 2500 Diesel, 6,200 on a 3500 SRW and 9,350 on a DRW. The 3500 SRW is just below tire limits, the 2500 is below a SRW for marketing purposes and IMHO the DRW is based on suspension/frame limits.

http://www.legislature.idaho.gov/idstat/Title49/T49CH10SECT49-1002PrinterFriendly.htm