AH64ID

I can hold it, and with the winter front stop lights doesn't make as much of a chane as it used to without the front. Without the front it would drop to 180 coasting.

I just did a little research and it seems stock boost should be around 20.5 psi and the wastegate is set for 26, I would guess the defuel is in conjunction or just above the wastegate setting. That is for a HO, the SO will make the same boost but the WG is set at 23.

Your truck is pretty light! I would break 9,000 with just the tools and my normal winter toolbox load. I have been over 11,000 a few times with nothing hooked to the hitch. I just looked up the curb weight on a QC LB auto for 2002 and it's 700lbs lighter than my curb weight which is about 800 lbs lighter than my lightest of "empty" weights.

Between the cam, turbo, coolant filter, and manifold blankets my truck is really slow to warm up. It can take 8-10 miles of cruising to go from 80 to 190 on a cold day.

You should get 100% fueling at 22-23, as the wastegate controls it. I would guess you will start to defuel based on boost around 25.

On a day that is well below freezing I'll drop to about 180 fairly quickly, thermostat is a 190, depending on how many flaps of the winter front are closed.

The axles and bearings will not be an issue, even if you have a D70 vs D80. What is limiting you, and is a safety concern, is your wheels and tires. What are they rated at? Have you actually weighed your truck with the camper on it? I ask because the advertised weight is never very accurate. My Dad's Lance 850 is advertised at being 2350, the sticker on the back is closer to 2600 and the actual weight when loaded for camping with full water, dual batteries, etc is around 4K lbs and just under 7K lbs on the rear axle.

Timing starts to fall off at 2,001 rpms, and is really low by 2,200 in the cruise region.

The tie rod ends are not as forgiving on alignment, and if out of alignment one of them will snap. The new piece has a alignment pin that ensures the left and right ends are in the same plane of rotation.

Yeah I like 2000 for hill pulling, only the steepest of grades on high(5-6K+) and hot (75+) days require a downshift if I am towing the TT, which puts me at about 18K GCW and towing a big barn door.

AD hasn't been reliable for several years now, maybe they are on the way up but??? FASS makes a good system, and has optional heaters. If I were to go electrical it would be FASS, my option to go mechanical is gone since I run a Fluidampr. Mechanical is great, and if you put the proper size filter in the supply line you will not effect the operation of the mechanical pump (i.e. if the pump moves 160 GPH pre regulator you want to run 2 100 GPH filters in parallel). The nice thing about mechanical is you can pick your own filters based on rating and flow. There aren't any filters with the proper flow rate for the 150 GPH systems, so if your using all that fuel your not filtering very well.

There are times with I want the NV5600 6th to be a .85:1 and times I wanted it to be a .70:1, or higher. It's why I really want a 7 speed with a .85:1 6th and .70:1 7th. With my current 245/70R19.5 the .73:1 is great empty at 70-75, but it would be nice if it was a little lower with a camper hooked up. 5th with these tires is improved for pulling big grades.

That's why I run electrical for both :-) I also get to program warning lights and needle sensitivity. It's nice to have a rock steady fuel psi needle, even thou the pressure is always moving a half psi or so. Between the snubber and programming of the gauge it doesn't move, and for oil I am able to slow it down a little for between shift changes. I like reading boost in the manifold, but valve actuation makes a mechanical and electrical gauge bounce, but with my EV2 programming it's steady. The same thing with drive pressure, valve/cylinders were visible in the form of a bounce on a mechanical gauge that are tune out now.

The truck does seem to roll easier, but it's hard to quantify and since the engine and tuning are new in winter weather the mileage isn't going to tell much. These tires have little to no road noise, I think they are quieter than the LTX's but I haven't ran them since October. I was enjoying how quiet the entire truck is at 65 on the way home today. I have the standard hellwig anti swaybar and these didn't increase the stiffness like that did but it's a close second. It's just a different feeling too, I am guessing that they really compliment each other and can't wait to do some windy towing (like up to Idaho City area).

It was short bus :-) I probably could have made it another hour or so, maybe more, before the idler gear ate thru the timing cover :-) Problem is that I was 2.5 hours from town and 6 hours from the shop...

Makes sense, I have had to use the winch once without a working engine (starter died 4 miles from camp/tools, and all but 4 short stretches were downhil), a dual battery setup provides a lot of power. We winched a 6K truck at least 400' uphill. Lots of good things about a hydraulic, I just never got over the idea of the engine having to be running or the strain on huge power steering pump.

Sure would have been nice! Thou I must admit since I ended up with my current setup it sure is a lot nicer :-) I can't say I would do it voluntarily again, but... Now I will say that despite the initial damage and expected internal damage there was nothing internally wrong...nothing, got to love a Cummins.

I did about 20 miles of towing the other day, and took loop that involved a short 6% grade, 70 mph, bumpy roads, and a little winding. Even without the W/D hooked up its amazing how stable the truck was. It's very easy to see why people say they never want to go back to light truck tires, I know I don't.

I bet the guys on here tell you that isn't enough pressure, I believe anything under 14 is bad for the VP.

The upgraded tie rod is solid for strength, so a clamp on stabilizer is the only option. Correct, your truck is not effected by the recall.

That is the original linkage, not the upgraded linkage.

How many gauges do you want to run! $800 buys a lot, I didn't spend anywhere near that much and have 5 EV2's, which aren't cheap. 17 at idle? I thought you said it was a stock lift pump.

I would guess your 02 is easier on the oil, my point was that the short life of CJ is the TBN primarily and fuel dilution is second. Neither of those should keep you from running 7500 miles but sample it if you are unsure.

What made you go hydraulic?

Does you stabilizer clamp to the the tie-rod, or bolt to it?