AH64ID

CJ oils typically have a lower TBN than CI oils, but the 2013 Cummins is still rated for up to 15K miles on the oil.

Yes, same filter different paint. Check out this website. http://www.filterspro.com/

The truck will hit 100K this year, but the engine.....

Sounds like fun! What did you choose for a winch and bumper setup?

I run the AME, and don't worry about the cold weather. Above -30 it's plenty thin.

The S-03. http://www.madselectronics.com/Smarty03.html If you are looking for a vendor there are several in the vendor section, or you can PM me if you need to. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/

User Defined Catcher, custom tuning. On a 3rd Gen it allows the user, and/or tuner, to write a custom program for the truck based on use, mods, truck, etc. I run UDC and while my peak power dropped about 15rwhp my mid range is stronger, the truck is more fuel efficient, smoother, and a better driving truck. I run it on my truck, my dad's truck, and a friends truck. I have also written tunes for many other folks, custom tuning is the way to go. As of today it's in the works for VP trucks and will be the only custom option once released (no date yet).

I say Smarty, and when UDC hits the streets for the VP crowed you will already be running the correct tuner.

Many threads are people wishing they had gone bigger, so many folks don't believe anyone when they say they don't want to go bigger. I think I fall into the exception, I have gone up about 60 rwhp since I started but I don't use it often and generally just because the improvements I have made let me set it there. Nearly all of my mods are designed around durability and efficiency.

Wind chill does not effect sitting oil, it cannot make the oil any colder than ambient. The pour point of Rotella T6 5w-40 is also -44°F, so I would think that it would be good. If you are using a block heater it certainly won't be an issue. It's too bad they don't test the CCS at the same temp, but at -4°F the AME is a lot thinner than the T6 at -22°F. I know, not a great comparison but it's all they give us to work on. I don't see too much below 0, but have been in the -20's and don't worry about a thinner oil.

Amsoil AME is a 15w-40 CI-4 oil, and I think the best CI oil you can buy. I ran the Series 3000 and was not impressed with the UOA compared to AME, and AME is cheaper. The HDD Series 3000 is thinner, so when you are working it hard its not surprising you would burn more. The HDD does meet the Cummins requirements for running a 30wt oil, but it doesn't exceed them like the AME does.

Peak power is just part of the programmer, where you spend 99% of your time is below that. That is where Smarty comes in, they have more adjustability and driveability. Here is an example, with UDC on 3rd gens guys aren't getting a huge peak power gain but the low/mid is much better. Heck my peak power went down a few hp but my truck is much better at what I use it for.

The new softwares should give you , as John mentioned, a more linear power. They are smoother, quieter, and should be more fuel efficient. The thing I like most about PoD is that the standard smarty tunes got to 100% fueling at 82-84% throttle, so PoD 85 gives you a setting the has no effect on power, economy, anything except making 100% fuel happen at 100% throttle. This also means the pedal is softer, which is good on low traction surfaces and easier on the driveline when towing. It's about the only thing I use PoD for. What Revo settings are you running now? If your tone ring is still advanced the new software might work better if it goes back to stock, but a little driving will answer that. I know my truck wouldn't like a tone ring mod on any software, I run less timing than stock for cruise and early spool zones. I can't think of anything that's not to like about the current box tunes. The higher the software the better the mileage but the more you have to watch things with a stock turbo. That's where UDC is great, you don't need to advance the timing to proper without having to jack the fueling up. But that is a different thread! Power gains are plus/minus 10% so a wash there, not that you run WOT very often :-)

Yes flow is more important than pressure to the CP3, hence the low pressure requirements. Too high of pressure can be hard on the FCA. The factory filter cover starts to leak at about 30psi. My truck runs great in the -20 to -30 range as well, not sure what that has to do with it? I run about 6-8 psi 90% of the time. Saying it runs well out of spec is like saying 1600 hasn't melted a piston yet, so why go off of what is spec'd. Not arguing, just putting the info out.

Nope, that is the CP3 range. VP44's want 14-20 and don't do well under 14. A CP3 has a range of -5 to +15 (direct from Bosch, I called) and when you look at HPCR specs for marine motors (same CP3) is 11.x psi. Most agree keeping the pressure positive is better than using the bottom end of the range. Yes you are pre filter, but even with a pair of plugged filters you would be higher than recommended. Next time you change the filters adjust the pressure to 15 at idle, that should be about 13-14 post-filter. A clean filer will have less than 1 psi drop, and most filters are "plugged" with ~4 psi of restriction.

dorkweed... you need to turn your pressure down. The CP3 only wants 15 psi max and 12psi is optimal.

How old is the fuel in your tank? Your station is blending it for you, no way to run #2 at 0° without blending or chemically winterizing. I have seen very few stations advertize their fuel as winterized, but they all do it based on local climate. The only ones that don't are the ones that sell #1 and #2, even then some of the #2 is treated or it wouldn't pump thru any exposed filters.

Absolutely, but if the truck was parked overnight it's harder to warm it up.

It would make a big difference, especially if you have a winter front. I would plug it in overnight and see what your pressure is like in the morning.

Can you plug the truck in and warm the stuff up underhood? Or is the sender not underhood?

Your FASS is plenty of fuel, a 480hp QSB 5.9 only needs 50 GPH so I am guessing that on a VP truck (a little more pressure is needed, thus a slightly larger pump per hp than a CR) that a 95 GPH pump can support 600ish rwhp, or more. That would be a good match all around, fast spool, cool EGT's, good power, etc.

Your best bet would be to find 5 gals of #1 and dump that in, if you cannot find #1 then dose the fuel with diesel 911 or equivalent. Pour it in the tank, let it sit for a few min then bump the starter and let the fuel pump run until it stops and repeat until you get good pressure. How old is your AD? If it's fairly new you are probably alright, but if it's more than a few years old be sure to check what filters you have.. AD didn't supply them with filtration better than stock, was actually worse in some aspects. If the fuel station is winterizing their fuel properly you shouldn't need to add anything. I generally dose my fuel early in the cold weather as stations are catching up then by December I stop, unless I am going into the back country or a colder climate (most stations winterize for the local conditions). The first filter inline is the one that will gel, a fuel heater down the line doesn't do any good (ask me how I know). A fuel heater is a great thing to have, but it needs to be on the first filter to keep you from gelling otherwise it just provided the IP with warmer fuel.

All the retarding power goes to the rear wheels, and fast. It's okay to use on snow-ice if you are in 4wd. The further you get from the enigine the longer it takes to build back pressure, so the brake delay is increased further. It's already mounted, but if you find you don't like the performance I would move it closer to the turbo. I just noticed the cam in your sig. Did you get the prxb? If not you could possibly exceed the valve spring rating, just depends on which Colt cam you have. I ran a Colt stage 1 and would peak at 60-63 psi, which is acceptable. The stage 1 runs lots of overlap. I now run a Hamilton 178/208 and can see 70 plus on backpressure. That's with my non-adjusting exhaust brake. I do have 103# valve springs so it isn't an issue.

Run the 100 psi gauge for drive/exhaust, the exhaust brake will peg a 60 psi gauge. Ideally you want boost to exceed drive, or be 1:1. This is hard to do on any recent stock turbo, they pinch off the exhaust for spool and emissions. My Garrett runs about 0.8:1, sometimes a little better when pulling grades, whereas my stock turbo would push 2:1.

I got mine too. This recall is for 03-08 trucks that have replaced their original "Y" steering with the Mopar "T" steering. If you have an 03-08 and still run the original steering it does not apply. It also applies to all 08.5+ trucks.