AH64ID

They do have some benefit, just not huge and a modified OEM intake can do all the aftermarket ones do, and possibly more. When I am pulling a grade an making some boost the IAT's are about 30° hotter than the ambient air. 10-15° of that is just from the heat soak in that corner of the engine bay, and that's with a sealed OEM box and 3" pickup down under the fender. So you can see that IAT's would be considerably higher with an open element, and thus EGT's would be higher. So while it's not a "CAI" a well engineered intake still has an effect on IAT's on a turbo diesel.

It made a nice difference on my dads stock motor. The OEM horn is a huge restriction, and it's the biggest restriction at low/mid boost/airflow and not as much at peak flow/boost.

I rarely hear my fan at speeds above 55, regardless of coolant temp. It's the high load and slow speed stuff that requires a fan. - - - Updated - - - About the hottest I ever get is running at or near WOT at 2K rpms pulling a grade at about 70 mph. I can hit 215° but that's as high as I have seen it. I will hit 211-213° in 5th at 2200-2500 on steep grades.

It may free up some hp, but as far as I know there isn't a single electric setup that moves more air than the OEM fan. Every fan I have seen for our trucks will actually decrease the GCWR of the truck due to lack of cooling. There are lots of threads about such a swap on other forums. So unless you are empty, or near it, all the time the electric fans are not worth the cost.

Exactly.

There is not one single good reason to run anything by the OEM 4" filter on a 3rd gen.

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=030767-MRS Thou from what I gather you had better be in the 1K plus range on hp for it to make much of a difference. The biggest benefit, IMHO, would be the wide mouth intake manifold and horn.

The 6.7 uses different, larger, lines.

I took it for a quick spin to return some tools. It steers much easier at slow speeds, and it certainly coasts a lot further and easier. I didn't figure the hubs would be so warm after just 10 or so miles at 55-60, but they were probably 110°. As for the shocks, the truck is much more stable over bumps and curbs. The steering feels tighter, and I am not sure if it's the stabilizer, brace, BJ's or all 3. I did notice that my right pull is gone and the wheel is 3-5° off center from the previous correction for the pull. Initial impressions are great. I have an appointment to check the alignment tomorrow, and then I'll drive it some more.

They blame it on improper servicing, but I think its that and poor design.

Well I am done, and aside from weekend distractions and date night it went pretty quick and smooth. The upper rear shock bolts were a PITA, but I turned the passenger side around and it went on much easier. The fronts were not too bad, but compressing the new 5100's took a LOT of energy to get the shock tower back over the studs. Everything buttoned up easily, and the hubs were quite simple to put together. The Yukon lockouts are STOUT and then some. I also really like that they will default locked if something were to fail in the lockout mechanism. I haven't gone for a drive yet, but I am cleaning up the garage and will take it for a spin shortly. I swapped to my summer/towing tires as well and need to find my notes with the proper speedo calibration size.

A 62 is going to give you a hot 450-480, especially with a 12cm housing. A Super B Single would probably do 450 decently. John likes the 351, but I am not a huge fan; however, the reasons I don't like it make it super fast spooling and the compressor does move decent air I am just not a fan of the turbine.

What pressure tank?I have looked at the cat heaters too, just not sure I want to go that route yet.

I do carry a spare. The #4 is the most common line to break, and while it's not common it's also not rare. My understanding is the rubber clamp isn't tight enough and the harmonic vibrations cause it to fail. I check my clamp irregularly, and my dad's 06 too. I have never found either to be loose.

Here is a blurb from the owners manual. Upshifts into both overdrive gears, 5th and 6th, will bedelayed when the transmission fluid temperature isbelow 40° F (4.5° C) or above 240° F (115.5° C).I don't think that is the full reason for lower fuel economy thou. The biggest reason is why the trans is cold, the cold. Cold makes all the fluids thicker, tires harder, the air is more dense. All of those mean additional hp required to move the truck. My truck takes 20-30+ miles to get everything "warm" when its cold out, at least to where I am not seeing increase load from cold fluids, etc.

I would guess you had diesel on a connector and it was inhibiting the electrical signal. Your presumption about pressure and cranking is correct.

I always though that the Phosphorous reading covered that, is that wrong? http://www.eoilreports.com//testPopUps/phosphorus.htm Yes the amount of crap a filter can hold is huge. I touch on it sometime when referring to a filter as normal life, or extended life. That's why I like the Amsoil/Donaldson filter, it offers the best full flow rating, and holds a LOT of contaminates. I think it's two fold, one the engine starts to wear but also the choice of oil/filters make a difference. Our 4Runner has had Amsoil synthetic in it since we bought it with 25K miles on it, and it just hit 105K. It has also always had a bypass. The oil is maybe a hair darker at the change now that it was at 25K miles, but it stays honey colored for the entire year it's ran.

No, it should be reading about 14.7 ± for elevation and weather.

No, but with analysis you can use oil until it wears out without guessing. When I do UOA on my truck the soot is always the first thing that determines my oil's life. Modern media in filters is excellent, if you buy the correct filters, and some filters are good for 25K miles. The Donaldson ELF7349 I use is one such filter, and combined with a bypass you can get long life, if the oil holds up. The synthetic oil I use is holding up as far as TBN, additives, etc and my contaminates are very low, other than soot. So that's the basis for my rant on soot accumulation.

Yeah.. it's when the soot level get's too high that it becomes an issue. For me my oil life is 100% determined by soot, nothing else. If the oil didn't suspend it so well and let me filter it out my oil would last a LOT longer.

If it starts fine when warm then it's probably not the lift pump. There are lots of options, once you get the MAP sensor replaced and if you are still having issues I would give my business to Todd at T&C Diesel. He knows the CP3 and injectors as good as anyone.

No it's not that big of a deal, but it's a fun discussion. My dad had a 3406 that would stay amber for hundreds of hours with a bypass filter.

That's who I use, and it is also who Cummins Rocky Mountain uses. I have used Blackstone in the past but they charge more for TBN with the standard report, which is very important to me. OAI has been good, fast, and the people on the phone are knowledgeable.

As far as Dodge is concerned anything pre HPCR. A 2nd gen can stay cleaner with modern oil than a 3rd gen because of how it was designed to meet emissions.

So far it's all going pretty smooth. Last night I got the wheels/brakes off and soaked the hubs in PB overnight. This morning they came off pretty quick and easy using the power steering. I had the axle shafts dropped off at the driveline shop by 10:15. On my way home I swung by the diesel shop and grabbed the BJ press. I started the BJ swap at about 1:30 and was done by 3:30, very easy and the proper tools make all the difference. Since I can't do anything until I get the axle shafts back I started working on the shocks and am nearly done with the rear, I could only work until 4:30 today. Last night I also got the steering brace and sway-bar end links installed, very nice parts. I hope to get the axle shafts around noon tomorrow and start putting the knuckles back together.