AH64ID

Its fairly common to read about external boxes failing, Edge, Banks, TST, etc.. They just don't have the quality of part that OEM is. There is something to be said for a programmer.

With pop-style injectors the pressure will go from below pop to peak at every injection event, triggered by the compression stroke and timing in the pump or ECM/pump. If the injector was always open you would melt pistons ASAP! At 3K rpms each injector is firing 1,500 times a minute, that's 25 times a second. So if your at peak rpm and WOT the pump is going from well below 260 bar to it's peak pressure. Just because the pump is capable of 17K psi doesn't mean it will run there often, but I have no clue. But that means that at the start of your injection even the fuel is harder to ignite that a common rail that starts at the set pressure. Stock 04.5-07's cruise at about 18-19.5K. One of the reasons that you a P7100 can run 16° (or heck some of the high rpm guys with 22°+) of timing at low load is the pressure is low, so it takes a little longer to pop, the ignition delay is longer, etc.. Whereas a CR with 16° of timing has a very very low ignition delay, and super short injector delay.

Since there is no throttle cable hooking up to an injection pump, nor do CR injectors use pop pressure, the ECM has to determine how much fuel to spray based on many inputs, such as TPS, RPM, Boost, IAT, ECT, Load, etc... A CR engine maintains a constant, roughly but it doesn't pulse like pre-02 trucks, pressure in the rail. The injectors always have that pressure applied. The ECM then opens a solenoid on the injector for the prescribed time, at the prescribed time. There are 3 tables that play into the main injection event that I am editing/adjusting. Rail Pressure, Duration, Timing. The Rail pressure table tells the ECM to make "x" pressure at "y" rpm and "z" engine load. So say 1800 rpms and 30mm3 (~20% load) the ECM commands about 14,500 psi. The duration table tells the ECM that for the current load (~20% or 30mm3) it takes 486us to flow that fuel at that pressure. Then the timing table tells the ECM when to open the injector, 8.9° BTDC on the stock tune. So for 486us at 8.9° BTDC the ECM opens the solenoid, at 1800 rpms 486us is 5.2° of crank rotation. So that's why it's commanded fuel, the ECM does a bunch of split second math to command so much flow. What I can do with UDC is tell it to run more or less pressure at the given rpm/load, more or less timing at the given rpm/load, or that it takes longer/shorter to spray the desired fuel at a given flow/pressure. All of that plays into mileage/power/EGT's. With UDC I cannot log the commanded mm3 while driving, or at all. That's a EFI Live only feature right now, for 06-07 5.9's and 07-09 6.7's. But yes it should work out the same, but I would have to add the pilot/main and post (currently turned off) together to get that total fuel burn.

I did a little looking at the stock tune. At 1800 rpms and 30mm3 of commanded main injection fuel the pilot injection is 4.0mm3, so 34mm3 total. At 1800 rpms and 45mm3 of commanded main injection fuel the pilot injection is 4.3mm3, so 48.3mm3 total. At 2000 rpms and 30mm3 of commanded main injection fuel the pilot injection is 4.8mm3, so 34.8mm3 total. At 2000 rpms and 45mm3 of commanded main injection fuel the pilot injection is 5.6mm3, so 50.6mm3 total.

Now that my exposed filter isn't first in line it's not black, but as the first filter (and only) is was black! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asphaltene

So I was just thinking about that spreadsheet and I think I figured out why the mm3 is higher than expected. That's all based on 1 injection event. So with the snapshot you posted if there is a 7mm3 pilot even then the main in only 26mm3 and that's a little better and more expected.

I know your good, just pointing it out in general.Lots of people think that because it says Fleetguard on the side it's the best possible filter, when Fleetguard only makes each filter to the specs needed.

Depends, how much adjustability are you thinking? You chart is cool, 34mm3 is more than I would have expected. I wonder if the motor is below peak efficiency? Meaning if you were at 1800 rpms would the burn rate be lower?The mileage is good, but the burn rate is higher. When looking at tuning 35mm3 in on the edge of the cruise burn rate, with 45mm3 being the highest burn rate for tuning "cruise"..generally. By 45mm3 I am tapering into spool/accelerate/tow timing and am fully there at 55mm3. There is a common misconception that lower rpms always means better economy, but it's simply not true. I get better mileage towing at 2000-2100 than 1600-1700. If I ever get to datalog I will do some testing, but reading about it from EFI guys they see the same thing as they are able to watch commanded mm3 and lower rpms doesn't always decrease the mm3. Too funny! 140 cc's per event would be some serious fire hoses!!

Well you know that I am partial to HPCR's. I happen to like the adjustability of pressure/timing with a key stroke...

Depends completely on the part numbers, you could have 20 f/w seps but if they aren't rated correctly you aren't getting the filtration needed. I think both, depending on the model year.

How would you vary the pop pressure?

Thanks for the info. I will make some suggestions thou. Think of PoD as a throttle limiter. What it does is modify the throttle signal. So under normal PoD99 driving your pedal has 100 positions, 0-99. When you set the PoD at 50 you are making each TPS position only worth 50%. So WOT with PoD 50 is the same as 50% throttle with PoD99. That's why your auto trans doesn't shift well. I have heard 60 is the lowest you want to go on an auto trans because of shifting issues, anything gained by the slower fuel rate is lost with the trans taking so long to shift. The other issue with running PoD really low is that you lose upper rpm power very quickly. This could be a safety issue. When I have set my PoD down to 50-60 I am unable to get above 2500 rpms, which is not safe if you try to pass someone and can't! The other issue with loading SW9 is there are ways it makes it's power that still may not be safe, such as timing and possible rail pressure. PoD will not effect highway mileage, as it still takes "x" hp to do the speed your driving. PoD is designed to allow for smoother/slower fueling around town. Look at the dyno below. On my truck I can run PoD85 and have 100% of the power of PoD99 but with a much softer pedal and it's much easier to drive. PoD 70 has all the power down low but starts to taper off above 2300 (the rpm limiting I was talking about). So with SW9 PoD40 you have all the bottom end of SW9, until you hit the wall that 40% throttle would apply. If it were my truck I would set the Smarty to the software which you can handle 100% of the power on. Then I would use the CTS and watch engine load vs TPS. Do a few slow WOT runs, and watch to see at what TPS the load goes to 100%. Then back the PoD down to just above that number. (On my truck I go to 100% load at 83% TPS, so my PoD is 85). This will give you a smoother driving truck, but not sacrifice any power. Then for winter/dirt/mileage driving I would go about 15% below that number, maybe only 10% with an auto. What you will end up with is a much safer tune, and still get the benefits of PoD. If I had a CTS I would run PoD 85 when towing, then as soon as I hit a dirt road drop to PoD70, then back to 85 for pavement towing. Lastly, In Oct of 2011 SW9 was completely redone and is a 210hp tune, SW7 is 160hp.

Yes. The battery's I run are rated at 930 CCA's at 0°F, 1070 MCA's at 32°F, and 1350 HCA's at 80°F.

I have heard of many rigs with water damaged fuel systems and never a WIF light. You also have to look at the efficiency of your filters, not all filters are better than stock and standard AirDog and FASS filters are not, but are getting better.

With a retarded injection event the pressure is lower because the peak pressure occurs long after TDC and the flame chases the piston down the powerstroke, thus less pressure. The EGT's are higher because the ignition occurs closer to the exhaust stroke, which results in less heat absorbed by the piston and cylinder walls, and more heat in the exhaust. Its the mm3 of fuel being injected per main injection event. Cummins uses the volume measurement of mm3, which is 0.001CC's per 1 mm3.

I drain mine at least once every 5K miles. It may be more often based on circumstance, but it's a 5K mile interval for me.

Just saw this thread...been a busy week..I am not surprised at all by your results. As we have talked about in other threads static timing is set for a specific rpm. So at 0° you were setup well for idle/starting/low rpm. Free revving is really not a good indication, put a decent load on it. But you saw that it didn't like to rev up, and here is why. We want peak cylinder pressure to be 12-18° TDC. When you inject at 0° you are introducing fuel into a piston that is reducing pressure, which makes compression ignition hard. At idle and low rpms the piston moves slow enough that you still get a good ignition event and idle/start well. As rpms increases the pressure drops too quick for proper combustion, and well you saw the results.. As the engine warms up the ignition delay decreases, and thus the better performance. When you went to 20° the fuel is igniting too soon and your creating a rapid ignition, as it lights when pressure is rapidly increasing. That results in a lot of combustion noise. But put your motor WOT at 2600-3000 rpms and 20° works great! The ignition delay is reduced, and the peak pressure occurs at the desired 12-18° ATDC. The reason a CR can run the reduced timing is simple, it has a pilot injection. The pilot injection is a small event that precedes the main event and gets the fire going, and reduces the ignition delay of the main event. This is also why they are quiet and have lower emissions. On my truck I start getting noisy at 8-8.5° of timing in the cruise rpms, where your truck would probably barely run. It's all about ignition delay. So here is an example of peak power at 2,000 rpms on a 04.5-07 5.9 HPCR. Rated power is at least 555 ft/lbs. The WOT main injection event occurs at about -5.8° (or 5.8° ATDC). But here is the kicker, there is a pilot injection event that occurs at 51.6° BTDC. That's early enough that the fuel doesn't ignite rapidly, it actually has to wait for the conditions to be perfect. But the commanded 13mm3 of fuel that is burning early will make that 140mm3 of fuel injected at -5.8° ignite very quickly and thus it still makes a lot of power. The power isn't as efficient as possible, or as cool as possible (1450° EGT's) but the cylinder pressure is low and the piston temps are low. Clear as mud?

Have you played with this yet?I have always wanted a CTS as my digital gauge but it's hard to justify the cost. I only set PoD 3-4 times a year max, but this would be nice and I am sure I would use PoD more.

Just stumbled across this.. it appears to only measure TBN. What about soot, fuel, coolant, contaminates?

I haven't seen any water since about 15-18K miles (currently at 83K). I bought the truck with 10K on it, in 3 years!, so there was some water in it at first. Not much and I am certain it was from condensation and sitting. I run 2 f/w sep's that exceed OEM specs and never get a drop, IMHO modern fuel is VERY dry!

Unless you are racing/pulling there is no need for SSR. Normal driving/towing is well within the limits of the Sr on UDC. If you want to run UDC you have to come up with a list of things you would improve upon the tune you currently run. If you are happy with your current tune there is no need to get UDC, but if you want to change a few things it's great!The torque management feature is almost worth it alone!

Yes in the general cruise region I lowered rail pressure. OEM rail pressure has a big spike at low load, then a big valley as load increases. I felt it would be better for power/etc to have low load rail pressure be lower and as load increases so does rail pressure. The slower burn rate may also provide for a more even burn/pressure spike at low fueling and thus more economy.. It's all playing at this point. I got up to about 9-9.5° of timing and am getting a slight rattle so I'll back it off again, but I know the limit with my pressure settings. My truck doesn't like timing at low rpm like some do, like dorkweed's. I'd go insane with the rattle with stock timing and a tone ring mod. You can see earlier in the thread what OEM rail pressure looks like, here is what I am running now. The truck seems to like it. The longer/slower burn really helped spool (not that it was an issue) below 1400rpms. Now I just have to get the timing optimized and I am sure my cruise EGT's will drop back, they went up to 700-800° with just the rail pressure mods.

Cruise mileage is something I have been messing with nearly the entire time. I have gone the full gammet on retarded vs advanced for cruising. With the stock rail pressure map I really had to drop my timing back from stock at 1000-1800 to keep the rattle down. Now that I have a Sr I am re-attacking my cruise timing from 1600-2400. I have smoothed and lowered the cruise rail pressure and I can now bump the timing back up and not rattle! My cruise EGT's also went up a bunch with the lower rail pressure, and I have started bringing them back down now. I'll report back when I know more, but I am excited as I think I should be able to squeak just a little better economy out of it, not to mention lower cruise EGT's.

Okay, now it makes sense. Have you updated since May 18th?

Now I am confused, SW5 defaults (as stated by you) has advanced timing??? So are you running defaults or not?