AH64ID

It doesn't seem to be quite as accurate as an analog gauge, but then again boost is derived from manifold pressure minus intake pressure, so it will almost always be higher than an analog gauge.

I would run the oil filter housing. I would like to find a place on the block to run it, but I am not sure there is one that will work. There is a port on the block just above the ECM, but I don't tink a 1/8" sender will get deep enough with the NPT to metric adapter to get accurate readings?

TM is timing, TQ is torque.

I am not sure it matters.

And on a 3rd gen provides much more accurate readings.

Combustion temps are far greater than the EGT gasses we measure, 2500°+ on a heavy tow. But the temp quickly drops as the piston goes thru the power stroke, and the temps are only that high on 3/4 strokes. It's not the flash temps that melt pistons, it's sustained cylinder temps.

The boost bolt is the best and easiest way to go. I don't think 3rd gen's have that plug in the side of the head. --- Update to the previous post... It's not wrong, but will read a higher pressure than what the manifold/motor are seeing.

The other thing to consider that EGT's have an effect on is oil temp. I am not sure what year the piston cooling nozzles started in, but I have seen oil pressure go from 58 to 43 on a hard long pull with the stock turbo. That's some warm oil!

A lot depends on the timing. Stock timing on an 04.5-07 will produce 1450° EGT's while towing, if I were to try that now (if I could get there) things would melt.

The Amsoil EAA189 was discontinued becuase it lacks in the flow department, supposedly they are working on a new 4" filter to meet or beat OEM flow.

Gotcha, so by added timing you meant TM4. You run a little more timing that me, which will give you slightly better mileage and lower EGT's. My truck smokes too much with more timing, and really loads the oil up with soot as well.

1250° max continuous1300° maxThose are my personal numbers, and would be the same on a 2nd gen. If I am nearing the top of a grade I let it go above 1250°, and if it looks like it will go above 1300° I bump the CC down a mph, usually good for a 25° drop. It's all about airflow, 1300° at 1500 rpms will put more heat into the piston than 1300° at 2200 rpms. Towing temps are more critical than short bursts empty due to the sustained temps. 1500° empty on a quick WOT run probably wont do anything, but hold 1500° while towing for 30-40 seconds and you may have issues!

This was also an issues with the original 2" OEM filter, but the new 4" filter is not an issue. Mine doesn't even budge with my Home Depot CAI, cam and turbo WOT at 400+ rwhp. I have read about multiple fitment issues with the WIX, and just stick with OEM.

Or oil in a turbine engine.. lats indefinitely.

There are 2 things that effect oil life, contamination and acidity. Contamination is what normally ends an oil's life as the oil and filter just can't hold any more; but with proper filtration you can run an oil longer until you get to where the acidity has depleted the TBN number and the oil needs to be changed.

Which settings? By added timing do you mean you run stock timing? Once you get the Smarty tuners set all you have to worry about is your right foot, and with a Smarty you can adjust for better running... Banks is not favored by many for a reason. That's a very common occurrence. SW7 seems to be the strongest tune on a stock truck. On my Jr on SW3, equivalent of SW5 on the Sr, I have no fuel pressure issues. I run my Jr on SW3 TM2 TQ2 now that I have all the supporting mods, studs, turbo, clutch, etc.

Breaking 20 is not common on 3rd gen trucks, plain and simple. The weight combined with emissions just generally doesn't allow for it. In the long post quoted earlier I made several of those comments, and have a good understanding of what works and doesn't on a 3rd gen. The 04.5-07 motor just isn't as efficient, but some can get that magical 20 number, generally in the SW or on the E coast.. too mountainous around here, thou I have hit 19+ a few times. Here are my mileage logs, note that I am not even close to stock and do much better on fuel that I did stock (link in sig). Also the city driving %age on the page is actually towing %age.

If you tow a lot or just need/want up to about 400 rwhp then get the Jr, if you want over 450 rwhp then get the Sr. I think the Jr is better suited as a towing setup because the timing options are a little different on the Jr, and from my understanding TM2 (default Jr timing) isn't even an option on the Sr and it works very well for towing.

What's your truck? The HE351CW has the same comp wheel as the VE, but the turbine wheels are different.

I grew up on Amsoil and use it exclusively in all my rigs, engine and drive-train. It's proved to be a good quality product. I don't partake in any of the selling, but have access to a dealer account and will hook my friends up when they want some.. I do not push it, nor will I ever push it. I know it works for me and when people ask I tell them. There are things they offer that are hard to beat, especially considering the prices I get it at.

We get it for free from Costco and it does make a difference. Temperature variance is much lower and they never lose air they did before... I am not sure I would pay for it, but it certainly does work better. Amazing how the non-nitrogen 12% can effect it.

You get the flow of a 40 and the spool of a 35, and better than a 35/40. You also get an integrated exhaust brake. The setup isn't really all that much cash and everyone seems to love it.

I did a 670 mile trip this weekend where 640 miles were towing my TT. I am guessing about 16.5K on the trip down and 16K on the trip back. With my extended shank my TT is not windage friendly, and on the flats takes as much power to maintain 60 as the 15K lb dump trailers I have towed. For the most part cruise was set at 70-71. Elevation ranged from 2800 to 7000. There were a couple of short 9% grades, but mainly in the 5-6% range when pulling hills. Temps were 70-97°.Boost ran from 5 psi on the flats to 30 psi on some of the long grades (drive never went over 25 that I saw). EGT's were from 800-1100° except on the longer grades. EGT's didn't break 1200° except the one grade that went to 7000 feet. They peaked about 1300° at 71 mph which was 2100ish rpms. I am not sure I can complain about that, 7000 feet at 70-75° ambient is not EGT friendly when pulling 5-6% grades in 6th, which took up to 92% load on a 400 rwhp tune. I was harder on the truck that I have been on that trip in past years (weight and speed) and got better mileage on the trip down than I have ever gotten and roughly the same on the way home, but drove a good 5-10 mph faster on average.

An electronic controller will set the VNT vanes according to load, boost, rpm, TPS, etc; whereas a manual controller only sets them for 1 variable.. boost is most common with a manual cable being the other. IMHO a manual controller is a waste of time. The nice thing about the fleece is it fully automatic, but also has a dial to adjust boost up or down about 10% (trying to recall the %, been over a year) from the loaded value.. So you can make the turbo more aggressive for towing or racing, or less aggressive for highway cruising for economy.

How old are your brake and power steering fluids? Two of the most neglected fluids in the automotive world.