AH64ID

I have had the turbo on the truck for about 3500 miles now, with about 1525 of those miles towing, some hwy, fwy, and FS roads. About 1100 miles of empty fwy/hwy cruising and the rest is around town and FS roads. Here is my updated overall impression. I still feel the turbo is superior to stock in every form. The hottest I have seen is still the ~1225° WOT in 6th at 1600 rpms with a trailer on a hill, and that was on SW1 on the SJR, SW3 peaks about 1190° as there is more boost from the increased exhaust flow. DP is nearly always 1:1 or better. Empty cruise with EGT’s below 900° its about 1-1.5 psi higher than boost , and WOT acceleration above 2500 rpms will give about a 1.2:1. Towing at constant rpms its right at 1:1 95% of the time. If the EGT’s are at 1100° or above the drive pressure can get as low as .8:1 on a grade (I have noted more than once 24-25 psi of boost with 20-22 psi of drive on a grade). This is one efficient turbo!I have been running SW3 on the SJR and the EGT’s reported here on on that setting (SW3 TM2 TQ2 PoD99.. uncorr 386/712 without any of the bolt on mods). EGT’s are generally 600-800° in 1-4th gears, but can hit 1000° with a big hill and load. 5th and 6th gears run 700-900°cruiseing around here with the elevation changes, and big mountain passes will see approx 1050°max when empty and 8-12 psi of boost. If I had to pick the turbo’s favorite EGT is would be 1000°, towing or empty that seems to be where the turbine starts to gets it’s peak efficiency at, the EGT’s will climb quick to near 1000° and then only slowly go up from there. When towing in 6th gear it runs between 900-1100° except on the biggest of hills where is will slowly climb to a peak of 1190°, I have yet to break 1200° except where noted earlier. If I drop to 60 in 5th it generally runs at about 800-1100° depending on the grade, but it takes over 70% load to get the EGT’s above 1050°. I recently pulled rye-grass hill (I-90) at 50 in 5th at 7spi and 800° (was slowing for the u-haul following me) at about 15K GCW. I think with my current power setting the turbo is well matched for the fuel, I am not sure I would get above my personal limits of 1250° continuous/1300° momentary above 2000 rpms in any gear, but especially 6th. Based on what I have seen I can probably pull just about any mountain pass (curves aside) in 6th up to 18-19K GCW and have the power/EGT’s to do so. Fuel Efficiency is really much harder to quantify an increase/decrease than most want to think, but I would say that I have seen about a 10% increase in cruise economy, and probably 5% in slow speed towing. I recently got an average of just above 14 towing a 7x16’ enclose trailer at an estimated 15K GCW from Bozeman to Seattle, normal flats speeds were 65 and hills were 45-60 depending on curves. Then returning from Seattle to Boise I got right around 19 (had some mixed towing but the math points to 19 flat on the last 500 miles), with a bed full of furniture and appliances at an average speed of 66, my previous best on that trip with an empty bed was 17.25 with more timing.Towing or empty the IAT’s seem to hold 6-10° (a/c off) and 9-12° (a/c on) above ambient unless pulling grades, then +30° is still the hottest I recall seeing at 25psi of boost. The compressor is very efficient. Oil pressure is still holding a few psi higher than it ever was with the stock turbo and doesn’t drop as much pulling grades, the higher oil flow thru the stock turbo must have heated the oil more than I thought. Coolant temps seem to run a little cooler as well. I am not sure what is causing the lower coolant temps, if it’s the lower drive pressure and thus better flow thru the cylinders so lower cylinder temps, or if it’s from lower heat soak from the wrapped manifold/turbo, or what.. but I have yet to break 198° this year in the last 1525 miles of towing, and the thermostat isn’t even fully open until 207°.

That thread should be all you need.

Here is how I flushed my system... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1298-Power-Steering-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen. Are you flushing it, or removing it for maintenance purposes?

I have just gotten in the habit of pulling the key out 1/8" and it stops.

Are you talking about when the door is open with the key in the ignition?

I agree, a low psi light does not tell the whole story and really isn't worth the cost or hassle. If you really want one you should do it in addition to, not instead of, like you mentioned.

Your making too much boost for that HX35, its pumping hot air which is increasing your EGT's. I would also guess you are running too much drive pressure, which doesn't help your already choked exhaust. I went with a Stage 1 Colt Cam and the difference was only 7% on intake and exhaust and made a difference!

His sig works for me??

Since I only drive my truck on weekends these days I need to look into doing something as well!

With a DRB the dealer can make it OD off, but you don't get to go back and forth if I recall correctly. I don't know if there are mystery switches you can install to give OD lockout??

When towing in 6th I wish I had 4.10's, when in 5th I wish I had 3.42's.. guess 3.73's are good for me!It comes down to what speed and gear you plan to be in. If you want to pull 11K in OD, which is fine with a few trans upgrades, then 4.10's are better. If your just going to slow down and run 3rd then 3.73's are better, trans upgrades and hp upgrades are still good.

2005 has two options, I believe they are tow/haul or OD off.. but not both like 06+

My stock clutch held for 55K miles at a guess of 350/700 at the crank. A bit of towing, and the last 10K miles were on the 400/750 at the crank setting and it didn't slip until the new turbo that built too much power at 1600-1800 rpms. I was able to back off to the 350/700 setting and not slip it WOT in 6th towing. Does the NV5600 use the same clutch as the NV4500? I still have my stock clutch, better than 50% materiel left, that I plan to sell. It only slipped on my twice in a period of 5 miles.. I instantly turned the power down and changed it within 400 miles. There is no sign of any slippage on it.. So it may be a good cheap upgrade, if that's something you are interested in.... $50 plus shipping would take it. --- Update to the previous post... Nevermind.. looks like the input shaft and flywheel are different...

Your dealerships are very different than both the ones I have dealt with. Both of the ones I have used promote increased filtration, and one even sells a kit with 2 extra fuel filters! You simply can't void an entire warranty for something, they can try (and often win because of the uneducated customer, and lack of $$ to fight them), but it's illegal.

As it has been stated its normal. I have a bypass and even with the Amsoil flush two changes ago its black as soon as I check the level after changing it. It's all soot from the way Cummins met emissions. The cam, turbo, timing, and pistons all play into it. I have changed everything but deleting the 3rd event (but its advanced) and pistons and mine still does it. I'm not even sure it would stay clean with a centrifuge.

That's a pretty good reason!

Most dealerships tell you that you will have far fewer problems with it deleted, nearly all of the 6.7 issues are emissions related... thou you do lose your warranty for some failures.

But why get the LRG tires if you can't use the air pressure/tire rating? LRE's do what you need with a better ride. RAWR (aside from the legal mumbo-jumbo) is based on wheel/tire capactiy.

At any given speed the mechanical advantage is 10%, not to mention the hp increase from 10% higher rpms. I think you would like it with those tires, but hard to say if you will like it enough to justify the cost.. Really unless your doing 70 in OD you don't have the rpm's with either gear set to pull too many hills with a locked tq converter, so 3rd is your hill pulling gear for anything big and in 3rd at 55 you should have the power with 3.73's, but 4.10's will be quite a bit more if you find you are lacking. I wouldn't spend money on it yet, tow first. Some examples, 65mph, 4th gear with 3.73's is approx 1748 rpms. 65mph, 4th gear with 4.10's is approx 1922 rpms. 65mph, 3rd gear with 3.73's is approx 2534 rpms. 65mph, 3rd gear with 4.10's is approx 2785 rpms. 55 mph, 4th gear with 3.73's is approx 1479 rpms. 55 mph, 4th gear with 4.10's is approx 1626 rpms. 55 mph, 3rd gear with 3.73's is approx 2144 rpms. 55 mph, 3rd gear with 4.10's is approx 2356 rpms. 45 mph, 2nd gear with 3.73's is approx 2543 rpms. 45 mph, 2nd gear with 4.10's is approx 2796 rpms. 35 mph, 2nd gear with 3.73's is approx 1978 rpms. 35 mph, 2nd gear with 4.10's is approx 2174 rpms. --- Update to the previous post... You money would probably be better spent on a tq converter, valve body, and a Smarty Jr to make your truck a HO. And get rid of the K&N crap!

Well the clutch finally broke in, and I like it even more. The first 500ish miles it was LOUD!! The shifter and trans rattles so hard that the mirrors vibrated.. Well the springs in the disk finally broke in after a few WOT runs and its nearly stock quiet now.

From the info I can find it seems those rims are only rated at 3K lbs a piece?

Sounds like it could just be a bunch of accumulate soot in the exhaust system... Get on it hard a few times and see if the density reduces. Best thing would be to tow something and get the EGT's up for a while to clean out the cat.

Does the smoke clear up as the boost builds?Any Gauges?Are you sure there are no mods on the truck?Do you have the plastic tanked intercooler? Common issue in early 05's. Most HPCR's don't smoke at all, but I have also seen several 05's that smoke pretty good stock and they are bone stock trucks without injector issues. HPCR's are very sensitive to timing as far as low boost smoke goes, so your truck may simply be one with a more advanced tone ring from the factory.. or the PO put a timing advance mod on the truck. HPCR injectors don't normally fail and roll coal, they usually shake and rattle. There are some more OBDII tests that can be done on HPCR injectors, but still not a perfect scenario. What type of fuel filtration is on it?Also, with a Cat on the soot can load up in the cat and when boost is applied it will blow/cook it out and smoke for a while.. SO if you drive very easy for a long time then get on it, well you get the idea...

As everyone else has stated the removal is only for turbo whistle. I removed the one in my stock turbo and liked it, it's not excessive with the stock intake, even with the MIT, but it does make it noticable.

I'm liking it! I just hit 500 miles on it this morning, so still not too much use. But I have been using it as a commuter a few times the last two weeks and it drives great! Another towing trip this weekend..I did bump the Smarty Jr up to SW3, and the truck is FUN when I get on it... It's nice not worrying about the clutch, head gasket, etc....