AH64ID

The OEM filter is 35µ absolute. If it's a quality filter, such as Donaldson Blue or Fleetguard Stratopore, then there is no restriction based on filtering ability. The restriction would come into play with a plugged filter. I know the Donaldson Blue's are also designed as extended drain interval filters. The only time I recommend an early oil filter change is when someone switches to quality synthetics with over 75K miles on the motor. This is due to the cleaning characteristics of quality synthetic oils.

Donaldson DBL7349. It's a 15µ absolute filter, vs the stratapore at 25µ absolute.

@dripley that's still the best full flow you can run. It's quite the filter!

Correct, you can run 5w-40 year round. It doesn't even take really cold to switch to 5w-40, just operation below 0°F. The manual doesn't talk about synthetic 15w-40 but it's generally good to -20/-30°F. I may have to dig up that video... Well... that was easier to find than I expected. IMG_11971.MP4 That's only 5° below the lowest recommended temp for dino 15w-40. It makes it easy to see why the recommendation is in place.

Slightly thicker at 100°C and slightly higher HTHS have me interested, as well as the tech's I've talked to at Amsoil think it's a better oil, aside from TBN. The TBN won't be an issue for me so I'll give it a go.

@Mopar1973Man With your average load and speed to/from Ontario you would be a great candidate for running synthetics with an extended drain interval. You would reduce costs and down time. The individual change cost would be higher, but the cost per mile would be lower. I know I’ve shown it before, but I have a video of dino 15w-40 and a synthetic 15w-40 at -10°F, well above the pour point of the dino oil and it’s THICK and I would be very nervous running it in Idaho winters.

I'll be changing to the DME this next change, which will be sometime in the next month. I just don't need the -54°F pour point, and the difference in 100°C viscosity is only 0.1 and the DME has a higher HTHS and lower NOACK. I'll be sure to do a UOA next year.

Haha... been out in the woods for a couple weeks and just catching up. Can't say I expected to see that chicken!! I run synthetic for several reasons, one is the oil change interval. I like being able to go once a year on a change. The other is the better performance cold and hot. I have seen as low as -30°F in the truck, and oil temps as high as 240°F. Those are temps where synthetic does better. I ran dino Delo for a winter 5 years ago, and the difference in motor sound and oil pressure indications even on above 30°F days was noticeable over the Amsoil AME I run.

315's would probably take a 4" spacer.

I've never cleaned mine but it shouldn't get too dirty and should get exercised in the northern climates. The turbo oil line has a constant flow and also shouldn't have any coking.

70/72=.972 454x.972=441 That's how I do it, but it's the same answer. The most accurate way would be to check the difference is to use the GPS odometer and compare it to the truck odometer. My odo is within 1%, but my speedo is a little more off.

Depends on what bypass you're talking about. The pressure bypass, at 75 psi, does NOT route unfiltered oil to the motor. This is the bypass that is used on most engine starts. All this bypass does is reduce system pressure by re-routing some oil back to the pump inlet, the rest of the oil continues its path to the cooler/filter/turbo/motor/etc. The filter bypass, which operates on 50 psid, not psi, will send unfiltered oil to the motor but this bypass is not commonly used unless the filter is plugged. It's only there in the event of a plugged filter. Virgin oil hasn't been filtered at all, the oil in the pan has. While the oil in the pan may appear dirtier it shouldn't have a bunch of larger particles in it, unlike the virgin oil. Large is all relative. Actually they do.. just not the same style as HO. They have to have some sort of piston cooling jet as the piston cooling jet is also what lubricates the wrist pin/bushing.

What are you trying to gain out of 19.5 duals? Is it just the look? I can't imagane you need the capacity, as that's well above axle/frame capabilities. The overall width will depend on what rims you get. Are you running spacers to get 285's to fit in a DRW application? Have you considered 235/85R16 or 255/85R16 as narrower alternatives?

I don't agree with that based on how this motor regulates pressure and differential filter pressure. There are 2 different pressure bypasses on the 5.9. The first is a 75 psi pressure regulating valve, this is the valve that is used when the oil is thick and pressure is thru the roof. When total psi exceeds 75 the bypass valve opens and routes oil back to the pump to keep the system pressure below 75. No unfiltered oil is pushed to the block. This is also used to help warm the oil up as more oil is being pumped than is being used. The second is a 50 psid filter bypass valve. Pressure leaving the filter has to be 50psi lower than pressure entering the filter, meaning the filter has a major restriction. While this may happen on extreme cold, nearing pour point, startups it will not occur on regular everyday starts. The does bypass the filter and would push unfiltered oil to the block. It certainly isn't an issue when chaning oil, at least not for me as I've never changed my oil in subzero temps. Additionally, if the oil is bypassing the filter it should be cleaner than the oil in the jug. The filter is always doing its job and after running it for a bit the oil will get cleaned, so the next start will have cleaner oil in case the filter is bypassed, but that's still a very rare occurrence. I watch oil pressure on the driver side of the block, meaning the oil has to go thru the filter and part of the block before I register pressure. It's not a couple of seconds more than a normal start at the same temperature to build pressure, it fills the filter very fast. An oil change at 75° with a dry filter builds pressure faster than a normal start at 10°. I don't trust FRAM on anything, dry or wet :-) You should see it on a UOA, as wear on the motor would increase with unfiltered oil. I've never seen it and it's been many years since I've filled an oil filter. You would probably lose a piston as well, as the cooling jets would likely plug which is what happened in the FRAM debacle. On my truck I've only heard a slight amount after sitting for over 6 weeks in the heat of summer. The next time my truck sat that long I pulled the injector harness plugs and turned it over until I had oil pressure. I've driven other rigs that sound like crap nearly every start after sitting as little as 2 weeks. These filters don't have ADBV's. For the most part the vehicles I've seen with ADBV's have the filters mounted in a position other than vertical, and they can't be prefilled anyways. Now that I have a shop that I can park my truck in and can leave it sitting for 24+ hours I don't have filter spill issues. When I lived in a house where the truck wouldn't fully fit in the garage I couldn't ever let it sit for more than a few hours and it would spill every time.

Are you going to convert to SRW or stay DRW?

It just depends on how long it’s been shut down for me. If I let it sit for 24 hours it’s 1/2 way, which is what I normally do these days for a change.

If I let mine sit overnight the filters are generally no more than 1/2 full.

Oil has also come a long ways in 20 years, and does a much better job clinging after shutdown.

But is that really any different than any start after sitting overnight where the filter is already only ±1/2 full?

It very much is designed to stay on the surfaces of bearings, gears, etc. If it didn't the engines wouldn't last nearly as long.

You're trying to compare the tolerances of a small engine to a automotive/industrial engine? Small engines are designed around not having a filter, your 5.9 is not. That's like asking how air cooled motors can survive without coolant

That's just it... virgin oil is not clean. It's going to be the dirtiest oil to go thru the engine for the entire OCI, assuming the filter never goes into bypass. I'll have to see if I can find the report on how dirty virgin oil is. It's been a few years, but it's what made me switch to not pre-filling filters.

I take it you’ve never seen a virgin oil report on particulate size? Oil out of the bottle has more larger contaminates than oil at the end of its life. Oil manufacturers are counting on the oil filter to clean their oil. Any oil that goes thru the block without filtering is doing more damage than good. When you pour oil into the valve cover it drains jnto the pan. The oil added will never go thru anything with a tight tolerance without being filtered. The same cannot be said for oil added to the center of a filter. Pressure is a measure of resistance, and a dry or wet filter will have the same resistance based on what’s after the filter. A filter rated for 20+ GPM is not going to have an issue with a “dry start”. If it did it would have shown up on my UOA’s by now. If a filter cannot handle the initial low flow of oil at idle how can it be expected to withstand the psid of normal use and high rpms/flow? Or the resistance created by oil that’s only a few degrees above its pour point? If you’re getting 5 seconds of dry valve train sound you need a new oil! Even with a dry filter and a change I’ve never heard 5 seconds of dry valve train. My motor is noisier after 6 weeks of sitting than it ever is after an oil change with a dry filter and even then it’s not more than 1-2 seconds.

This looks easier... The LF16035 doesn't have one. https://catalog.cumminsfiltration.com/catalog/partsearch.do?&reqCmd=PartInformation&partNumber=LF16035&PartType=Lube&Part=-&criteria=part&_locale=en

I am fairly certain there isn't a drain back valve in the filters I've ran, which explains the drain back. It's not such a big deal on vertically mounted filters.