AH64ID

Not cheap, but 39% airflow improvement is HUGE!!

Dynatrac's are what I run and they have 50K and doing great so far. Cheap 3rd gen ball joints usually last thousands of miles, not tens of thousands of miles. After several BJ replacements the axle gets worn and you need a new axle...

All of my small motors are fine running 87 octane, especially since most of the time I'm at elevation.

Bummer!

According to this website, https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=ID, there are stations in New Meadows and Riggins as well. So far I haven't encountered any errors on that site. Ethanol free is more money, but I only burn 30-40 gallons of it a year. Before I stopped using ethanol gas in my small engines (generators, lawn mower, chainsaws, etc) I was have to tear down and clean a couple carbs a year. Now with ethanol free I haven't had to do that in over 4 years. The extra $30-40 a year is worth it to me for the noticeably reduced maintenance.

I'll only use ethanol free. I don't really care if it's regular or super as long as it's ethanol free.

Stihl Pro series saws are great, and worth the extra money. Give them good fuel and they are happy for life.

Yeah I get a few tanks a year below 25, but my life average sits just above 32 so I don't worry about it. Do 2nd gen grid heaters not turn off after 2 minutes?

250 miles in 13 hours, worst case based on what you've said, is 19 mph average.. which is low but likely not your life average. Even with your worst case, assuming your entire average is that low which is very unlikely, it's 13,000 hours on the pump which is better but I'm quite certain your average is probably closer to 30. (400 miles with 13 hours run time is just over 30). A 30 mph average would be 8300 hours. For looking at hours 45 mph average is a vehicle with lots of highway miles, 30-35 is average, 25 is low generally for excessive idle or city operations. Anything under 20 is a red flag. I've had one tank with an average of 9.9 and it was for 300 miles with little idling, just SLOW towing and trailer maneuvering. Simply looking at how many hours you got out of it, nothing more.

How many miles round trip on a moparmom trip? No it’s not horrible, it just seems shorter than it should be based on advertisements I’ve seen. I have a lower than average mph due to all the back roads stuff I do, and I’m still at 32.7. 133K miles and 4087 hours.

Thats where average mph comes into play, as it accounts for idle time. A 15 mph average is very very low and has a lot of idle time. A few thousand hours of idle time is nothing short of excessive in 250K miles.

All the bigger boats are diesel, and some of them go much faster than 60' should! My dad's main client just bout a 88' boat with a pair of V-12 MTU's. 1350hp each :-)

I did some cutting over Memorial Day with the new MS362. I fell and bucked up a dead Ponderosa pine that was about 28" at the base. The MS362 cuts thru it like butter compared to my MS260 with a 16" bar. I'll be getting out for a few chords soon and can't wait to put some more fuel thru her. I did swap the carb on my MS260 and mod the muffler, it made a decent difference.

Looking like the +20° temp is holding fairly true. While towing at ~18K GCW and pulling a couple 6-7% grades the hottest I saw was 227°. 17-20° above coolant is what it likes. The oil does take longer to warm up, and to cool down, than the coolant. The coolant would drop to 190° on the downhill pretty quickly but the oil would still be 215° and take a while to drop. While driving it never seems to get much lower than +10°, but will drop to coolant temp at idle. I think I'll set my warning light for the 248° that Cummins recommends, that's 23° above the max allowable coolant temp for my 190° thermostat, which is inline with what I have been seeing. I did notice that the oil temp warms faster with the thermostat closed, and cools faster with it open. This is likely due to the oil cooler getting the coolant first with the thermostat open.

IIRC AD advertises a 15-16K hour motor. 250K miles over 16K hours is a 15 mph average, which is a LOT slower than most drive. At 35 mph/avg it's only 7,142 hours or just under 1/2 of the advertised life. I'm not sure that's very impressive. 85K miles is even worse.

I missed the high flow water pump... The 6.7 has a higher flow water pump and IIRC it's not an uncommon mod for deleted 6.7's to go back to the 5.9 water pump. The high flow pump is needed for the EGR cooler, but without it the 6.7 doesn't seem to cool as well as with the lower flow 5.9 pump. If the coolant moves too fast thru the radiator it's not cooling off, and it will cause temperature problems. Who makes the high flow water pump?

Yeah the electric fans can't come close to touching the airflow of these mechanical ones.

I know on my 3rd gen the fan makes a HUGE difference, and 4th gen's too. Before I had UDC Pro with fan control my fan wouldn't cycle until 215°+, and then only barely. I now have my fan set to cycle at 208°, 1° above full open on the 190° thermostat, and the hottest I've seen my coolant is 211° and that was only for a couple seconds before it dropped back below 207°. I run about 400 rwhp and tow up to 22-23K GCW on some steep/hot hill. When the fan is working properly it makes a big difference even at 60 mph. 2nd gen fans aren't electronically controlled so the temp coming off the radiator has to be enough to engage it, but I would think sustained coolant at 225° is enough to do that.

225° is the most Cummins wants to see with a 190° thermostat. 225° coolant also puts your oil temp around 245°, which is very close to the oil temp limit of 248°. You're running 25% coolant? You need to run at least 44% coolant to get corrosion and water pump cavitation protection. Water does dissipate heat better than coolant, but you have to maintain a good percentage of coolant. 50/50 is the best of everything, if you can survive with the freeze point. Do you hear the fan operating? I would suspect it's not moving enough air when it cycles. Exhaust manifold wrap/blankets will also help with overall underhood temps, especially when you have 2 turbines.

Is there a way to measure the actual VP timing, not what the ECM commands? I've heard the VP has a timing limit that cannot be adjusted, and will limit regardless of the ECM command timing.

Correct. Chances are that the small boost leak is not what's limiting the boost.

There are ISB cams with decent overlap, thou I think the overlap on the stock 2nd gen cam is small to non-existent.

The turbo compressor wheel and intake tube are where you'll see contamination first.

Yes they seem to have OEM quality air filtration. There is even a fairly reliable rumor they make the MOPAR 4" filter for 03-07 5.9's. Of all the filters I've added and run on my truck the air filter is the stock 4", so that kinda covers my opinion on it :-)

Interesting. I have read of 2 or 3 people having issues with the P551315. I wonder if the Cat 1R-0759 would work? I also just noticed that the P551315 is now a 95% 5µ filter, instead of the 3µ absolute it used to be??? The P551313, should be same media, still reports 3µ. Why didn't AD just use 1-14" threads!!! I would try to find something other than Wix. They have crappy fuel filters for diesels.