AH64ID

Unless I am going downhill I don't grab 6th until about 65 and preferably 70. It just runs better in 5th at 2400 than 6th at 1800 with the weight/drag I tow at. Drag is the biggest thing as I recently was at 26K GCW with a dump trailer and 6th was running great at 1600-1700.

Yeah it's quite a ways for you to get to "normal" driving but even at the same speeds the area you live is just easy driving. The slow speed towing will be a great test.

It should be. Have you considered a 2nd battery?

One other thing to consider Michael is that your average fuel economy is higher than most and that means your hp requirements are lower and that will reduce transmission temps. I'd be really curious to get you on the highway next to someone with a similar truck and see how the temps correlate. They very likely could stay about the same but they could also increase under "normal" driving conditions. Know where you live and the roads/speed that you drive on I know that it's not "normal" conditions for most people. I always love driving thru there as my mileage is better than a normal drive, even at similar speeds.

50w would likely be the minimum I would get. I have a 10W panel now and it's not even enough to get me to ±0.0A with full sun and nothing on but the standard draws such as fridge, clock on the radio, etc. I draw about 1.1-1.4A with just the minimum stuff powered, no lights, etc. 25W can charge at 1.73AH at 14.4V. That means I would need to get a good charge for 19.4 hours a day to just break even and not use a heater, lights, etc. With 100W I need a minimum of 4.8 hours of good sunlight and even being flat on the roof I will get that most times of the year. It may not completely recharge me but it will greatly slow my depletion which is what I am after. If it's that hot out and I am completely parked in the shade there is a good chance I will run the A/C before putting the kids to bed. An hour of A/C will put up to 55AH back into the batteries and I am good to go again. So it all depends on how you use your camper, but 50W is the bare minimum I would look into installing. 8 hours would be closer to 55AH because they charge at ±14.4V.

I am in a similar boat in terms of what I want out of my solar system. I am going with, already purchased but not installed, a 100w panel and a 10A controller.

I am not sure that the heat sink will even work as well as an open bath cooler like the FAST cooler, but it should dissipate more heat than a PTO cover.

Just looking at it logically. You don't have anything to create flow and in an open system no flow means no pressure. Think about how slowly a filter fills when you pour oil into it. Additinally what's going to keep any contaminates you somehow catch in the filter? Without pressure/flow there isn't going to be anything holding the contaminates against the media or even flowing the same way each time. Baffles don't do much without flow. If you want to filter the NV5600 you are going to need a pump. Anything is a waste of time and money, IMHO.

If you get 0.2psig I would be surprised.

Since you are using a pressure filter in a non-pressurized application I would get something in the 20-30 range, basically a cheap OEM filter and not any of the higher shelf stuff.

Double storage is very nice. My truck didn't come with it but I was able to find a storage console on craigslist.

It's nice and cool for sure! Still curious what method you used to see the trans fluid level in gear. I know you mentioned N on the xcase but that doesn't tell the whole procedure.

The case of my NV5600 was above 185° after 1,000 miles at 75-85 for most of the day (under 15 hours elapsed) and when I measured the case temp it was 95° outside. I wasn't towing but I was moving! I spent less than 30 minutes parked over a 15 hour day so there was a long heat building period. I only hit one spot with the laser temp gun so it may have been warmer or cooler in other places. I'll try to get a couple external readings after another long drive.

Good information! How did you verify the fluid is covering the sensor? Just curious. Just a reminder that the fluid is not a GL-4 fluid and is only rated as an MT-1 fluid. MT-1 and GL-4 are different fluid specs. Mobil states you can use in in GL-1 thru GL-4 applications but it's not rated GL-4. The biggest difference between MT-1 and GL-4 is the design application for MT-1 doesn't have syncro's and GL-4 does.

If you look at the sensor location and ring gear rotation it's not an extreme situation where fluid flings against it, it's all the time. While fluid will be splashing around inside the NV4500 I do not for a second think it will be anything like the rear end. The placement would have to be perfect to get slung fluid on it. No the temp of the fluid will not change enough to be of concern, it's simply a matter of proper slinging volume. 3rd gear will provide more heat from gearing reduction; however, there is a lot lower power requirement at "in town" speeds from the reduction in speed, drag, and thus the torque input from the gearing reduction. It's not just like 5th gear (OD). In 5th gear the engine must produce more torque to get the same rear wheel torque and your torque requirement is much higher based on speed and drag. 3rd gear in town is not the same. To me it makes a lot more sense that the lower speed reduces slinging which increase the fluid level and the slightly overfilled trans now has more fluid on the sender and starts to provide a more accurate reading. Arbitray numbers and assuming wheel torque requirement is same in 3rd and 5th, which it wouldn't be in real life assuming level ground. 1,000 lb/ft to the rear needs 1333 from the engine in 5th but only 598 from the engine in 3rd. The heat generated by 3rd is going to less than the heat generated in 5th. If your temps on the opposite side and in a cooler are about what he is seeing then it adds to my thought that he is reading low. Your temps should always be lower than his for a given gear/load/speed.

Gotcha!! I think the fill port would be an easy enough spot to return fluid to, and I would pull from the bottom port in the FAST cooler. The flow doesn't have to be high, nor does the pressure.

Gotcha, I read a new 5th gear (lower) as a new lower 5th gear.. :-) I would put the bung in the bottom 1/3 of the PTO cover, and then put it on the driver side away from exhaust heat. Not for the reading but for the wires. I know Micheal also does a bunch of the slow hot driving.

If you're going to filter it then add a pump and a may as well as a cooler too, otherwise it's a mute point IMHO. The pump with a filter/cooler has always intrigued me but I still don't think it's necessary. I am not even sure it would work with a failed gear anyhow. By the time all the teeth fragments got to the filter it would likely be too late. Didn't realize the 241DHD had a PTO port, pretty cool.

Whats the new ratio? Mag-Hytec puts it up there as all the fluid coming off the ring gear hits that spot and gives the most accurate reading. I dont think the same is true for the fill port on the NV4500. I think the fill port location will read low nearly all the time, even overfilled a little. I've read about enough differences from case temp to fluid temp to know that external measuring is only a rough guesstimate. So is the temp increase in 3rd from the gearing reduction or a higher fluid level from a lower speed actually allowing the probe to work? I'm guessing the latter.

That explains why I had thought the kit was discontinued, and thought I recalled people removing them since the servicing kits were unavailable. I wonder if quad has a supplier or is limited to stock on hand. How do you plan to get the cooler onto the tcase?

If you're only doing one side do the driver side.

I agree. I wrapped mine for all the slow heavy driving I do climbing hills on forest service roads. It's not uncommon for me to see 800-1100° EGTs at 25 mph or slower. Between the low airflow, hot exhaust, and hot engine air I wanted to help the trans as much as possible.

I have my exhaust pipe wrapped but I have no idea how much it helped. As far as the filter there just isn't much a non pressurized filter can do, unlike a pressurized bypass filter. I run 2 oil filters, 3 fuel filters, and a coolant filter on my truck... so I am not opposed to added filtration :-)

I run the Amsoil Syncromesh and FAST coolers on both sides. I'm a big filter guy but I think the cooling and extra fluid are better than the filter. The filter just looks hoakey. I run 7 qts. I ran 9 qts at one time but the trans was a little noiser. I change my my fluid every 50K. Michael, I honestly don't think your readings are accurate. You would have to be overfilled by at least a quart, if not more, for your sender location to be accurate. IMHO.

I got my dongle a couple months ago from MADS/Smarty... but I couldn't use it until this weeks release. Tyler, I am guessing his rail pressure is going to 26K? This is fairly common and one of the things I have been very excited to rectify with Pro. I have seen it happen as low as 3500' with the proper ambient pressure and IAT but generally it occurs above 7,500' and a 70° IAT. Marco and I have discussed the issue for a couple years with a couple attempts to fix it; however, the fix will be best implemented in Pro. Let me know if you have any questions when you start to tune.