AH64ID

We have a tri-fuel generator that I need to finish getting hooked up. Propane does have fewer BTU's per gallon but the fuel is already at my house and in a big storm with a power outage gasoline may be an issue where propane would not be. Gasoline just doesn't store well enough to bother for a long term event.

EFI Live offers no tune so you must use a tuner, of which there are many many tuners. There is no plug an play option from EFI Live for any vehicle and a 3rd party must be used if you don't want to tune yourself. RaceME is an overseas company provides the tune with their equipment and AFIK it is not customizable, at this point. Splitting hairs, but want to make sure the difference is clear. EFI Live is a tuning platform for many makes/models and RaceME is an overses company specializing in race products for the 6.7 Cummins in Dodge/Ram trucks. Starlight diesel is a 3rd party tuner that uses the EFI Live platform. A Starlight tune will be different than a ATP, SilverBullet, etc tune but a RaceME will be the same from anyone.

What I was trying to say without saying it :-)

Definitely not a knock off. But not "smarty" either

Hook on up and lets roll :-) I love snow camping!! I just know what the HX35 can support in a sustained environment and what the 05 puts out. I have no doubt your truck is quicker but I was saying the sustainable power is probably closer to what the 05 puts out than you think. What settings did you end up putting that 07 on? I don't recall.

Yes, mostly. The AD pumps are not of variable output and this is why they have their own dedicated return. The pump are always operating at a fixed rpm (which varies based on pump flow specs). The internal pressure regulator only pushes enough fuel thru the 2nd filter an out to the motor as needed to maintain the set pressure. If the change in flow is small enough the drop in pressure at the VP/CP3/psi gauge may not be noticed at the AD due to restrictions in the line in the form of fittings/additional filters/etc. Now if we get into a situation where the AD senses the output pressure drop and increases flow to the output (decreasing return flow) then yes a pressure drop means supply cannon meet demand, but only at that pressure. The demand is met with a lower pressure which is how the AD/FASS pumps work with a constant rpm pump. So if your pressure drops and you had more than a small increase in demand it is safe to say the flow required to maintain 16psi worth of resistance isn't available but the volume of fuel is being met just at a lower resistance. The bottom line is filter are rated in flow not in pressure and flow is what we need to worry about when talking filtration efficiency. It's been a while since I saw an AD or FASS flow vs pressure chart but one of those could better indicate how much one might be outflowing both of their filters by. As I mentioned the 1st filter is being out flowed on most, if not all, AD 150+ out there. The highest rated f/w sep filter I am aware of that fits the AD150 is only rated at 120 GPH. With variable demand and flow (output, not input) it's hard to quantify a flow change with a pressure change. As the demand for flow increases the resistance changes and we see a pressure drop, but flow may be increasing due to the variable output from the AD even with a pressure drop. A 10% increase in demand from the injection pump may drop the resistance enough to require a 20% increase in lift pump flow for the same pressure. This is true if pressure is your #1 concern, but it's not with a filter. 100 GPH at 10 psi is the same volume of fuel as 100 GPH at 4 psi. Since I am talking filtration efficiency it doesn't matter if you are at 4, 10, 16, or 20 psi if you are flowing 100 GPH on a 60 GPH filter you are outflowing what the filter was designed for. There are filters listed for the AD150 that are only rated at 20GPH...

While the flow should be similar at similar pressure it doesn't follow if any other modifications were made such as big line kits, injectors, fueling boxes, etc. Pressure is an indicator of resistance and not flow. My boost is a great example as I run 3-5 psi less than my stock cam/turbo with 100 more rwhp and lower EGTs. Flow is up and pressure is down. The first filter on the pump also gets full flow all the time and last I checked they are not rated for anywhere near 150 GPH.

I'll bet most of that is the torque management difference as I doubt you have much more sustainable power with a stock turbo and 3" exhaust. You have the fuel thou.

Glad to hear it!! Why wouldn't a stock 05 run well? 325/610 isn't a shabby motor.

Regardless of temperature Cummins considers more than 3-5 minutes of idling to be excessive. I wouldn't ever let it idle until warm, just enough to sure proper lubrication and drive easy (load and rpms) until it gets warm. Oil typically takes a while longer than coolant to warm up. If my thermostat opens after about 12 miles it may take 15-20 miles to see oil pressure stabilize with warm oil. Windchill is an apparent effect on living tissue. The only thing wind will do to a cast iron block is make it cool down quicker and slow down how quick it warms up. A block at -30° will start the same on a 0 mph wind day as a 50 mph wind day. All your truck cares about is ambient temperature. Since a couple of folks in this discussion also have 3rd gens they use 66°F in the intake manifold and run the post-heat cycle for 2 minutes or until 18 mph is reached. The post-heat cycle varies based on ambient temperature. The IAT can get well above 100° after startup but the post-heat still runs its programmed 2 min or 18 mph cycle.

Had a chance to run it at speed with the cleaned shaft?

Unplugging and going to only 17K tells me that you may still have a leak somewhere. You should have zero issues going above 23K-26K psi with the FCA unplugged at idle. A cracked injector can go into the return or into the block so that is a possibility, or just a failing injector(s) with a VERY high return flow. How old is the software in the ECM? There is a update from a few years ago that helps detect too much return flow. They should be able to run on 5 cylinders so unsure what the issue is there. You could pull all 6 injectors and have them tested. There is a shop in Boise that will test them with the Bosch machine. There is also a shop in Boise that can get you NEW, not reman or even OEM reman, injectors if needed. What is he using for a fuel filter?

Those times with the smaller pressure fluctuation are when you could be out-flowing the filters. I would rather take a small pressure change and have fully filtered fuel at WOT (highest pressure on any pump) than full pressure and possibly some contamination.

Most people buy into the marketing hype that 150 GPH is needed on these motors. Very, very, very few of the builds out there need more than 95 GPH. The bigger pumps can actually be worse as the filters used cannot support the potential flow rate. So my point is that the draw straw isn't needed and a modded OEM canister, as shown already, it the best way to avoid the 1/4 tank issues. The return fills the basket as well as the tank fuel which is why you can almost run a OEM setup dry. If you are really worried about flow with a 95 GPH pump then mos the canister for 1/2" hose on the auction side and 3/8" hose on the pressure side. 3/8" hose will flow more than enough fuel for just about everyone. Just say no to draw straws!

It won't take much to throw a driveshaft out of balance.

Ahhh... more symptoms. Those would be helpful in internet support. Like I mentioned the HPCR needs approx 3500+ to fire so if you are running at 1,900 psi it's generally a good indication of an indication issue which is why that was my first thought. But now that you say its sputtering and not running that's a different approach to a different issue. Yes, if you unplug the FCA and rail pressure doesn't peg then you likely have a HPRV issue; however, I would NOT just make your own test plug. The pressure will spike above 26K psi on shutdown and I wouldn't want to find out it wasn't a good temporary plug. IIRC you cannot buy just the HPRV from Dodge/Cummins/NAPA/etc but Todd at T&C Diesel sells them. Since a few parts have already been thrown at the issue what is one more :-) I am not sure he needs a higher than stock HPRV, but they are an option from Todd too. Be sure to keep notes of codes when troubleshooting a HPCR they can be helpful even if they don't throw again. I am willing to be the reason you don't have any codes is because the engine hasn't gotten to operating temperature with all the issue. I bet a 15-20 mile drive would produce a code or two, if you could make it that far.

There is a big difference in power dropping off and quits firing. You have used both to describe the issue, so which is it? The difference is what could be causing the issues On on stock tuning there are very very few places that cruise at 11-13K psi so that is another issue. Pressure should be higher than that while cruising with stock pressure. Does your scan tool also show desired rail pressure? Of not what about engine load? If you give me load and rpm I can tell you about what pressure you should see. But in short above 1800rpms and 6% load the pressure should be over 13K. What at was the FCA code? I really don't think it's the lift pump and I look at a few others things before doing that again. It's not acting like a lift pump, even the initial symptoms don't really say lift pump. Dont to get too hung up on lift pump pressure, this isn't a VP44.

What is he running for filtration and tuning? IIRC the injectors need at least 3,500 psi to fire. The spring that seats the pintle is what requires the pressure. If it's running on less than 3,500 I still say indication issues. What was the specific code?

What are you using to read pressure? If it's the OBDLink I am VERY surprised it hasn't thrown a code. It will not run at 1,900 psi so I am going to guess that it is an indication issue. The specs for the CP3 inlet pressure are -5 to + 15 psi. So what you are seeing is within spec and most likely not the cause of the rail pressure. The idle pressure is a little low but I only idle at 8-9 psi normally. These aren't VP44's and they don't need pressure to preform. The duramax version doesn't even have a lift pump. What are the symptoms that brought the truck to you?

The centramatics are nice as you can reuse them for many sets of tires/wheels. They do take some grinding to make room but that isn't a big deal. It should work. You will probably need 4-5oz of weight. No need to break a bead if you use a weight that fits in the valve stem.

There are a lot more reported issues with non-Cummins thermostats so watch for them, but if it works it works.

That is a fairly common cause of some death wobble. It really is worth ditching traditional weight balancing and I wouldn't hesitate to order up a set of dyna-beads for at home installation. All it takes is a jack stand, air compressor, a schrader valve tool, and a pair of pliers to remove the POS wheel weights. Place the jackstand under the axle of the corner you are working on as close as you can get it. Remove the schrader valve. Once the air is gone (weight is now on the jack stand and not deflated tire) use the provided straw and pour the beads in. Reinstall the valve and inflate. You can remove the weights while it inflates. Repeat. When I first installed centramatics on my truck the made my 80% worn BFG KM2's smoother than any tire I had ran and quieted them down. They had just previously been balanced too. Les Schwab won't install tires over spacers and even thou the centramatics are only 0.060 thick they consider them a spacer so I sold the centramatics and run beads now. I do still run centramatics in the trailer and can tell a difference on how much stuff moves inside.

Yes.

It's in the wiring diagram for your pickup. I would be very shocked if it isn't there. You guys should post up a photo of your relay box cover and I'll cross it with the FSM.

I would switch to dynamic balancing either way. Beads or Centramatics work great, I have used both, and my truck has never been smoother. I thought 02 didn't have CAD and I don't recall you having aftermarket hubs so why isn't the front driveshaft spinning? Pinion angle is know to cause vibrations at certain speeds in these trucks, but if the vibration is new and the angle hasn't changed it probably isn't that. Have you checked for a bent wheel? Steel wheels bend much easier than aluminum ones.