JOHNFAK

Meant more do you have an oem shaft. Mine was hard to get in .... had to pull and wiggle with small leverage ...... If you get real stuck might have to pull gearbox and shaft and get seated on ground to make sure all fits Then reinstall.

Module masters is the right one Stay away from myairbags.com If your grounds are ok .......which i never heard of causing this issue ..... don't see another way to check ....... I just know that's an issue on our trucks that they can fix. You could try calling them I believe it's about $100 fix and they warranty the fix

Electronics=ABS Module

Dumb question. If I wanted to patch part of a panel on the underside of truck by the kick panel ..... What guage steel and can I just pick it up from any hardware store .... Nothing special ?

Got the right box for the steering shaft ? The Borgeson shafts have to be filed down to fit an oem etc

Pretty sure you need a new abs electronics. Basically needs to be pulled apart and all the electronics resoldered/flowed. I'll try and remember the company.

" it forces a piston in the hydroboost to help push the master cylinder piston. " Awesome - guess that's the basic part I was missing. What does it phsyically do to "assist " No Leaks on firewall or behind pedal. New Steering box ..... still leaks. Guess its got to be the lines or fittings or reservoir oring ...... Ill clean everything down and see if I can track her. thanks guys for the insight. Was useful. You and IB should collate that info together and have put it at top/bottom of mikes hydroboost rebuild doc.

This ^^^ And hairspray

Mike ... but both. Just mean that's a way to learn and also earn $$ to make it cost effective for future.

Good? Mine gets here this week.

How to tell if PS pump is damaged needs replacement. So flow is OUT from the PS pump behind the vacuum pump to the hydroboost behind the master cylinder. It supplies regulated/pressure hydraulic to the steering gear box (return back to PS pump resevoir). How is the hydraulic boost help braking since that all comes from the master cylinder and break fluid. How does it "boost". I have a new steering box so doubt that's the issue, and pretty sure not coming from the hydroboost as think it would be evident with leak that high. Got to be coming from the PS pump itself somewhere (most likely) or the lines that go to the pump.

Thanks IB ^^^^ Weird I dont get any pulsing or any symtoms with pump being noisy etc. Tracking down the PS fluid leak seems a bit harder as its a semi clear color ..... and mixes with oil on engine pretty quick making it look like oil leak not PS. How would you tell if PS pump is damaged (apart from noise). Might hvae to clean her all down and fill it back up and go for a block drive.

So guys. Have loss of power steering fluid (none left) . So Im guessing I need to pull the vaccuum pump/PSP assy out and reseal etc. However when I was thinking about it - I realized I dont get how the whole system works ...... someone shed more light ? Some questions. 1) Most people replace for the oil leak that occurs for the oil feed line to the vacuum pump. I'm sure I probably have this also ..... but I'm talking about loss of PS fluid in resevoir. So ? Do the seal replacements generally take care of PS side leaks ? Dont want to pull the assay only to find PS leak is something else. 2) How does this tie into larger system of steering gear and hydroboost. I have no PS fluid ...... so why do I not notice anything in terms of steering and braking. Im guessing the master cylinder is till producing enough power from brake fluid to stop truck with no funny pedal feeling. Just not getting the extra stopping power of hydro assist ? 3) Whats the flow of fluid. Is it from the hydroassist to the steering pump then to the PS pump or other way around ? Things like that

Do both. Buy a new trans without a core and run it. Rebuild yours.

I missed this. Kinda does lend that your #'s are a little low. Still should be driving the primary harder as its so much smaller turbine. 7x.010 really means very little. Same setup I mentioned before with more than enough air (twins) running 7x.010 were just shy of 450hp. All the reasons mentioned before as well as injector setup. I bet your problem is the primary as everything else in the build gets you over 600. Either way Id have a talk with Carl or Weston or Barder Turbo or similar for real world input.

Biggest thing I see is you said your only making 50psi boost. The older formula of 10HP per #psi is actually ballpark not bad unless you have a heavily modified head and cam. I'm assuming you have a stock head or at stock head with mild port ........... so your boost numbers suggest ~500-550HP. Id try a bigger primary. But I have no reason to suggest so other than 83/1.1 is pretty small - good for spoolup. There have been multiple people report maikng large changes (CAM, TURBO, INJECTORS and even new head like a CR head) with very little uptick in numbers. Think there was an article by ZACK HAM back in the day about how they were playing with bigger profile cams and turbos and seeing no gain. And only when they realized how they all played togetehr nad made those adjustments they then saw the gains they expected. Not the one I was looking for but ... " Zach Hamilton: When we first started doing cams, gains were easily had. But, as time passed, gains were starting to be harder to find. This put us on a search for what exactly was holding engines back from producing more power. After some research, it was pretty obvious that regardless of what we did with the cam, there was no way we could reach the engine's full potential unless we had a better option for the cylinder head. " The one I was reading referring to was that sometimes the wrong cam profile can starve the truck from power on a stock head. Having said all that ........... a lot of stock heads making GOBS power good luck

Are you saying the same dyno is lying ? If so which numbers ?

LOL. Yeah its not a personal thing - I have no skin in the game. Go look at the CF dyno sheet where everyone posts numbers. You'll see 90% of 2 kinds of posts. * I made 688 HP on a Hx40 and some uknown sticks * I made 440 HP on a setup that should do 650 HP + Just if he' been on 2 dynos and both say he' 528 - hes probably "close" to 528. Try more dynos and try the track. But what do you do when 4 dynos say 528 and 1 says 578 on same setup ??? What does the truck do really ? So much more to performance than most of understand (especially me) . CAM/timing/duration/spray pattern, CFM, gearing, others .... they all play a part.

Yeah butt dynos lie that much I've had 6.7L guys in my truck tell me I have to be over 750hp. Mainly due to 80+psi boost and the butt dyno. I know I'm not. If I had a stab - Id say 625-650. Thats a big diff. I was told on the old ttwin setup 550HP easy. People that rode in truck and on forums. It made 448 or something. Thats a big diff. Point of my post was really just 2 things. 1) HItting these large numbers i harder than people think. 95% of the time the numbers are lower than expected because everyone out there running a modified truck is easily over 500hp .... right ? 2) Unless your specifically dynoing your truck for a goal (dyno queen) or racing/tuning to just seeing how high you can get ....... really means nothing. People do it to say they have a 600HP truck - then get bummed when the dyno says - no 500. Oh it must be the dyno. NOPE. Oh now I'll adjust for atmosphere. Since he built his engine I get why he may want to hit 600HP ........ Im just saying there aren't a LOT of true 600HP vp trucks out there compared to what you "hear". I think his truck is baddass as it is ............ and Id be looking to change the primary wto couple the larger injectors if he has to hit more.

Dynos vary (loading) Trucks vary. (tire sizes, tunes, cams, injectors, timing) Seat of pants means very little just because where the power comes in. The DFI 7x0.009 with a he351ve would be lucky to hit 400HP (sorry) - its jut one of those things that people think hitting 500HP is easy ....... its actually pretty hard. I ran 7x0.010 with 351cw/s472 and made 450HP in old setup. More fuel and way more air. I have mixed emotions personanly ....... I hit 80+ psi boost with 30 from secondary. But both my turbos are bigger. I'm hoping for 650 but honestly wouldn't surprise me anywhere from 550-700. Guess it depends if you feel you need to get over 600. If you do I get it ....... If I didnt get 600 I'd probably keep shooting till i did. But in the end unless its goal to jut say you did it ....... rally doesn't matter that much as anything over 500hp is heck of a lot of fun to drive. Guess IM sayinig dont sweat it ......... and going ppump ....... meh ....... unless you really want over 600HP ......Id stick to what you have.

I'd leave it near where it is. 500+hp is best all around area for fun, towing,DD You can always just play around with setup to push extra 5-10% out of it How much boost was each making And DP ?

Sounds like decent advice. DAP are good folk. I still like the he351cw as a all around turbo for that kind of work/fuel but its not a drop in. A custom 60mm would be nice ....... think fleece make one ........

Didn't realise your can was a 5 shot ...... makes the pricing better. Filled her up tonight with 3 cans . 65 ambient 35 low 175 high. Was blowing cold ....... well see how long she lasts. Will blacklight again tomorrow night.

Dang expensive son. http://www.amazon.com/FJC-4910-Universal-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B002AII980?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

LOL. Ill give the vacuum a go on the guages alone. Asides that Ill pull the compressor and check the oil there. Anyone know if you can just add UV dye to the PAG oil. I dont see why not. Normally I add to the lines ...... but its way messy. If I cant detect the leak Ill see how long it lasts with ~3 cans and decide on buying a sniffer from there.