JOHNFAK

So... before I go spending too much more time and money on the truck I wanted to get an idea of engine health. Didn't want to spend the $300 on compression adapter and guage ..... so manometer. My results were 2" at 2200 and 3" at 2800 .... Problem is this I s about NEW engine spec .... so I think some things astray. Most obvious would be too much venting somewhere .... but my front gear vent is blocked off .... And I run a dual billet side tappet.... 1 was blocked. Other was blocked with 15/64 hole. Measured from dipstick with clear tubing .... pics to come. Any ideas of where I'm venting or ....??

If you hold your ear next to intake filter /bhaf do you hear a tick Comming from engine ? Always thought that was best way to tell

Powerpuck is awesome can bus timing ..... best $100 chip out there

Can't remember if I posted in this thread .... but Mike on a 24v TPS ppump .... same issues .... different cause. There was a dead spot in the TPS itself ... so basically as you moved the throttle the voltage went up .... but right near lockup there was a dead spot and voltage goes to 0. Lockup in and out. New TPS .... a good.

Yes I wished I had bought that clean 3rd gen with built tranny instead of flying to pick up this 2nd gen.... Learned lots more though .... ha ha

Good tips. Dont get the clunk but every now and then I get a vibration feel almost like the PS pump .....like a Humm

What csm said ......on stacking Dont know much about the banks products .... since dripley has run both he could let you know ... i would think regular Guages with a comp box hard to beat .... I liked my smarty + juice stack combo .... I liked my juice CTS better ;)

Mine was a little tongue in cheek.... rebuild makes most sense if not wanting to switch things up. I just think that He351 should have been our stock turbo

THE HE351CW can support more hp with better flow and spoolup than a hx35. Drive pressures are actually very similar in real world testing at given HP.... Yes it needs to be clocked and you need an aftermarket intercooler pipe which are easy to source .... It's just an all around better turbo ..... I've probably had 10-15 turbos on my trucks including 3 twin combinations .... 1 used the he351cw in one of them .... Damn little bad boy for $$$

I think if I keep the truck I will head to a 1 piece ..... and have it all balanced true at a shop. Right now since my 3 months spedor abs/ordeal I have to get everything to where I need it ........ so tackling the small outstanding things now. Rear Ujoint and chase down small vibration when not locked up - if I get lucky done here Some small rust and paint issues - mostly done but need to revist Get her on a dyno. Remove some CC of fuel out of injection ....... different set of injectors on there way to test, play with pump (rack/starwheel/afc housing etc) If do this ^^ then drop the secondary to a smaller turbine and compressor (62/65/12 instead of 63/71/14) Fix a slight steering pull to left under braking - and possibly new front rotors/pads. Then possibly adjust timing, valves, fix a small exhaust leak ..... so on an so on Never ends ...... sometimes its fun ......sometimes its ......why am I doing this

CW is the best turbo out there for the $$ under 500hp. Not many other turbos will give you instant spool .... and support 500hp ...... and handle 300-500hp in the map range. Of course there are some mods to be done and used your all in for $600ish (not new). Then buy a rebuilt/used hx35 off a rebuilder .... swap out yourself in under 1 hour. Or the rebuild kits like the guys say. See below Only problem is the indexing/marking of the componentry as your putting it on unbalanced (well not proven balanced). That makes me nervous on something that spins at 100000 rpm or whatever it is ........ but lots of guys do it Its also teh cheapest option at less than $100. OP - what play do you have ....... side to side is OK as long as its not hitting the comp housing ....... in and out is the bad one where thrust bearing

Well I pulled away from the yoke and measured everything out thinking I got something jut slightly out of spec. The book calls for 4.188 inches or 406.5 mm...... I measured around 407.5mm for the safety tabs inside to inside ...... and around 407.1mm for the ujoint length itslf. I took the end caps off and added some grease and got the nipple in further using some pliers ...... put her all back together. There is still play ..... but seems very minor. So unsure if it was the grease ...... or just me being a little particular last night ........ on we go .....

Ok - I sure seem to be fining weird stuff lately. Rang around for A spicer 1480 ujoint today ...... couldnt get one. Settled for an Advanced Auto Part #295 Greaseable Moog Ujoint (20054BF). Installed fine. When i finish buttoning her up ....... I notice 2 things. 1) The grease nipple wont go all the way in ........ 2) There is a small amount of play ...... say 1mm ..... rather than being pure tight on the end caps with teh straps. The cclips appear tight. Thinking its probably they need grease - load up the grease gun - but it doesnt seem to want to go in ...... spills out everywhere. Not sure if this is due to nipple not fully seated ....... but wouldnt think it needs to be far in to provide passage. Anyone seen this before - slop in ujoints if not adding grease ?? I typically always use the nongreaseable.

I'd ignore all of this ^^^^^ Get yourself a low mileage he351cw off a 3rd gen..... You will need to replace your exhaust downpipe and get an aftermarket intercooler pipe. About $600 total .... but so much more fun with more air as well

Check for rear tone ring colliding with your diff casing .... ha ha ha Couldn't happen you say Brake light switch ..... bad sensor but still functional ? I have a spare new rear one if you want it.

Best TRE out there is dodge offroad. The 4th gen upgrade part you mention is fine and direct bolt depending on year of truck.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=20468097 SFI approved flex plate Offer him $125.

Do you still have the switch in ? Is the TC locking up ?

At this point yes. Explains why the signal was intermittent. What I'm not 100% sure of is if I had a ABS module problem as well. The one I currently have on is the 'junker' and it's working fine. I need to put my original rebuilt one back on and see ..... but it never got partial signal like the junker. I'll update on that in next day or two ....

Feel like a dodo on the welding thing ..... absolutely should have done the loctite .... my thinking at time was if carrier ever comes out again .... a LS locker will go in. Onto good news. Looks like I have full speedo again..... no drops .... i want to drive it a bit more ...... but this may be the end of a long issue ..... so thanks to all who gave input Now I can get on fixing and tuning the other 10 things on this truck which I've not felt like doing with this outstanding problem.

Gotchya. Didn't think of loctite that would have been better .... doh

The tone ring. Tack welded it to make sure it doesn't happen again. Bearings looked quite good. It might have already had a rebuild on it.

Well that was much easier than expected. Backlash out of spec .... but within range expected .... gear patter was very central and good Pulled the axles .... Pulled the bearing caps ..... everything looked to be in good condition ... Carrier came out super easy. Tapped it off. Heated new unit in oven per bill ... good tip. Slid on with a gentle tap. Tack welded it Put it back in. Truck is charging will drive and update tomorrow

Seriously I would have done that ^^ except that the speedo is used by the transmission and impacts the shifting before the signal is received. So unless there is someone who makes that that integrates with the CDN (couldnt find one) ......... ha ! Now I can see the gear almost falling off and going to do more damage though ....... on we go

Though cruise was just a cable that ran near the bell/apps sensor right along side the throttle cable. And maybe a vacuum that runs down by the horn drivers side battery. Unless Im mixing cruise and OD ...... but I know the cruise on the 12v is the cable by the TPS/APPS.