JOHNFAK

Confused ----- you just jump the wiring in the PDC where the trans relay is. If its ON (engaged and grounded) you will be locked up at whatever gear your in (depending on VB setup). If you come to a halt ..... you engine will want to stall as your still locked up ........ basically all there is to it ........ but easiest way to tell if your locked up is 1) OD OFF. You will hit around 30-35 and you you will see your RPM drop (like it went to another gear). 2) When you apply accelerator - the RPM and the SPEEDO go up together in unison. If they dont - your not locked

New Exciter Ring, Gear Compound, and Machinist Dial indicator AZ priming its way to me as we speak. Been speak with W&F on the side ...... and going to give it a go. PLAN 1 Measure existing backlash, Pull the axles, pull the carrier, remove tone ring, press on the new one, reinstall, measure backlash close in spec/original measurement and put back togther. PLAN2 Same as plan 1 but if bearings are bad or backlash is way out - pull the bearigs, shim everything out for preload, put on diff - remeasure backlash - repeat 10 times , swear, call Bill (W&F) ..... repeat 5 times .... cry .... call Bill (W&F) ....... steady hands and finish job as above. Will update - probably sunday - doing it saturday. thx guys - might get a speedo back after this.

Pulled it and managed to walk 90% of it back on. The 10% of the ring is too bent (probably from initial contact with diff casing) to pry back on on. Plus it will still be quite warped. Only other damage I noticed was the "tip" of one of main ring gears is chipped off. No side to side play in bearings. So only see 2 options. 1. Pull the carrier and reuse all parts plus a new tone ring. Replace as was. Only problem is never done this before. In terms of measuring backlash and preload as well as removing the carrier ... this simple or not really ? 2. Full rebuild at shop with new pinion and ring gear. Think this was around 1400 ..... just hard to find shops i trust within easy drive. Thoughts ?

Most mechanics aren't too keen to touch it without a rebuild it seems. 1 guy even said although teh gears are ok they would only warranty if all gears (ring and pinion mainly) are replaced. So .... if I end up going that deep --- thinking about a Detroit TrueTrac locker .... any downside ?

Thanks guys even though its just pulling the C clip and the chuck and axle I'll probably take it to a shop would feel more comfortable with them checking clearances and other issues ...... Hope its just this .....

Yeah .... if mikes right and it should be center if sensor hole .... then quite a bit. I thought it had shifted but didn't think it was that far ....

Not much metal really ...... So is that where the tone ring gear teeth should align ? The center of hole ? If that's the case then yes somethings happened with one of the bearings to be that far out of alignment ..... Crap

Thx man I appreciate the effort ...... think I need to work out why the tone ring gear is damaged ...... just wanted to see how far out of alignment it was

Bjyteck ..... thanks Sort of what I was thinking too .... been over 2 years since last had diff off ..... old truck before this one. Was suprised to see the the condition of the fluid as well as the tone ring. Anyone know what's involved to replace ? Anyone can snap a pick of their teeth position through top sensor ? Want to see if I have alignment issue also. Thx

ok - so I have left this for a bit (with the following upates) Sent off ABS module to another builder- Rebuilt 2x and still trips all lights and leaves speedo dead. Truly thinking the OEM module is toast. Even thought it tests ok at builder. As soon as I put the "junker" module back on - I get speedo above 25-30 mph and brake light goes off. I retested wires - 0.000003 OHM on closed circuit no sensor. With sensor in around 1900 OHMS (1.9k). I have tried 3 sensors in totoal (original, Chinese version, OEM version). ** I have noticed that I have to place a small washer between the sensor and the diff for it to register properly above 30mph. --- just an observation So today I pulled the rear diff. The fluid was pretty bad to be honest. I noticed a couple of things and unsure if normal. 1) The teeth at certain part of the gear ring look flattened or different to rest - this normal ? 2) The same ring is quite offset to the driver side - where it only passes on the very edge of the sensor. I am sure its normal -but don't know. Basically this is my last stop check/recheck of findings - it goes to a shop this Friday. PIcs below ..... http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20150905_151608.jpg http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20150905_151623.jpg http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20150905_152901.jpg Seem normal or ???? *shrug*

WM is pretty useless for CDI. I tried 3 systems ....... and basicalyl got a minimal drop in EGT and no MPG gain ........... Lots of methanol, water .......... wasnt worth it when you add teh cost of the methanol. Twins or a properly tuned single are only way to go. Id never not have twins now.

Thanks. I have a rust spot about the size of 3 fingers punch through near wheel well. $200 to have it patched .......and with fibreglass But have a mate that has one I can get for free ..... just need to paint and remove/install.

FYI I replaced the faulty EBCM with a junk one ..... the same one that was 'bouncy' before. All of a sudden it worked. Then 2 days later I see rear diff fluid. Heres short version of what I worked out. The sensor fully seated in round 1 attempt was throwing off the voltage somehow. Hence wonky speedo. When I put it back on for the nth time ....... I accidently put the metal bracing tab from the brake lines between the sensor and the diff and tightened 9/16th bolt down. What this did was rase the sensor UP a couple of mm ... and speedo voltage now worked. But prevented a seal and diff fluid leaked. So .... I added a 2nd oring... and placed a thin washer inbetween ..... and sealed up with gasket maker to be 2x sure. Now all of a sudden have a working ABS module. The original even after being to 2 companies - 2x was not working ....... its back again for 1 final try. thought Id update.

Beautiful - thx Buzzin How long to take off - 2 hours ? About the same back on ?

Cant find the thread I thought existed .... if someone has the link. Drivers side. Basically looking to see what needs to be done. Remove all bolts at front support brace near radiator Remove the battery, tray and bolts x 4 Remove the ABS bolts x 3 Remove the rear bolts for fender what else ?

So its definitely the EBCM/ABS module. I put the old core back on from before and everything works 100% except for speedo only kicks on after ~20mph. Unsure on that one. Its off to another rebuilder - will see. Anyway to pull the original ABS part # based on VIN ? They vary.

*bump* So anyone with a 99 or 2000 truck with 4W ABS and 3.53 gears that would be happy to help ?? I'll ship and will obviously cover return shipping also. 4 bolts - then take it off ..... put mine in and take for a drive. Only cautionary piece is be careful on taking the 4 bolts out to make sure they don't brake - eg no handtools - do by hand.

So OHM the wires to speedo and everything checks. Had the module sent back - they said it repaired and benched tested fine - but wouldn't say what. I think they just replace internal resistors/capacitors etc and check for electrical signal etc. No difference. No signal from all 3 sensors , brake light on , no speedo. I think the only way I will truly isolate if its an ABS module issue is to send it to someone with working truck and have them swap out and test.lSo anyone with a 99 or 2000 truck with 4W ABS and 3.53 gears that would be happy to help ?? I'll ship and will obviously cover return shipping also. 4 bolts - then take it off ..... put mine in and take for a drive. Only cautionary piece is be careful on taking the 4 bolts out to make sure they don't brake - eg no handtools - do by hand. thanks !!!

Do the diagnosis 1st and reset. then if still setting code ....... do yourself a favor and get the TIMBO apps ...

Thanks mike.

Gothcya. Cluster check was fine. Well thats interesting then .........so if I understood right (AC noise aside as I have no indications of this with transmission since new alternator) Signal goes to ABS and then can be used by other devices (cluster for speedo signal and ABS light .......... and PCM for cruise) via CCD. So If Im getting no signal on ALL sensors ........ its unliekly to be a wiring issue .......... so then most likely purely an ABS issue. Most importantly there is NO PCM issues ....... as the speedo and ABS would still work fine as they are picked up seperatelty. Basically - between what your saying and the diagnosis so far - its 100% the ABS module ?? FYI - I sent it back to the rebuilder today anyway

I think alternator noise would be a stretch to take out all sensors ....... unless it damaged the PCM. ABS unit was not reflashed - it was my original. I'm grabbing another ABS module used ...... to see if there are any different results with that ......... as well as sending my OEM back the rebuild company with further information about all sensors no signal.

If it comes to a dealer it will be the end of the truck.

So had it hooked up to a SNAPON solus ......... and basically it said 25 No signal drivers side sensor ABS 26 No signal passanger side sensor ABS 27 Intermittenet signal rear sensor ABS 28 No signal rear sensor ABS SO to me it looks like the fact no other codes in PCM or for ABS ... and with the fact that adding a junk ABS module gives me some functionality back that my ABS is still hosed after rebuild. Im thinking that maybe the junk ABS that somewhat worked was for a truck with different gear ratio *shrug* - as these are VIN specific. So maybe thats why it was all over the place. So right now all I can think to do is send it to a different company...... and try and find a used 2000 truck with 3.53 gears ABS.

So finally managed to get it to dodge dealer with ABS. Abbreviated Conversation snippets was something like this. Dealer "Can you leave it with us till tomorrow" Me No. I ran last week and was told to bring it here at 8.30am would be ok. No way to get to work or get back easily. Dealer "Could be a wonky rear diff. Could be vacuum. Could be anything" Me "ok. But wouldn't scanner show that. help isolate." Dealer "I dont really know diesels - can you bring it back" Me "Sure ... but any ideas on what else to check" Dealer "No. You can try running new wires" Me "I put an ABS module from a 2001 truck and the brake light went off and teh speedo started to work - just erratic". Dealer "You cant do that. They 'learn' from the truck they came from. You cant reflash either." so ..... 1 week of waiting ...... no scan ...... not sure on where to take it ........ smh /rant