JOHNFAK

I did it from reverse. OHM reading from the sensor - basically disconnect, set on OHM , complete the circuit - got a reading.

New sensor ... no difference

So theres no interaction between sensors at front and speedo/odo ? Basically sensors at front for ABS only. Sensor at rear diff for speedo/abs ?

Haven't heard that one. Not worried so much about ABS .... but speedo and odo

Ha ha .... where's the butt kick icon .... drive over and fixit for me then. Starting to wonder if ABS module is dead. Cluster is fine.

Wires and sensor both ohm ok from the rear .... literally get a reading by closing circuit on sensor ... or on sensor harness Sensor looked fine ... no shavings ... teeth looked ok from what I could see New sensor on order here in a couple days Anything else to check ?

Lots of offroad guys use the cradle setup ....

Jacob is good to deal with.

Haha .... mostly roads these days .... but I do miss the beaches. Reminds me I need to bump up to 40 psi sometime now front end is done.

Your all a bunch of girls ... I roll around approx 32-35psi

I really like the one from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

So I had it on a high dollar scanner - not a DRB but a full suite scanner. No codes for ABS - only boost to high, injection pump (ppump) and TPS and grid heater. Q) - The front two sensors on the wheels only control ABS right ? So even if there was a damaged circuit - that wouldnt impact speedo and odometer. So basically the only fault for speedo/odometer could be the transmission sensor (auto) or the rear sensor ?

I know it can on newer trucks ..... wasn't sure about older

So any way to track down if it is rear ?

Hey gang been a while .... so busy lately.... Started today .... I've had ABS light for a while .... finally got around to changing both wheel hubs out a few weeks back .... no difference. Rear sensor seems clean. today speedo stopped ...... How to track down ;)

Steering box from DOR Shackle flip for rear. Rest seems right. Shocks if you have bumpy roads don makes good set for 400-1100 and higher

Thx problem is I'm not 100 percent sure which part it is and how much works involved to replace at a body shop .... I'll snap a pic tomorrow too

It was a PA truck. I've dealt with most if the rust once the front end is done next couple month or so ..... the only other part is this part ... i can't really get to it ... so my backup plan is to spray a rust inhibitor but I'd rather do it properly if not too $$ Basically if you look through the drain holes to the kick panels ... that metal looks like factory new ... but the backside of it ... that forms the sheet metal that goes under the cab near the body mounts .... that has rust ... not yet really bad but I'd like to deal with it

The sheet metal behind the kick panels that forms underneath the truck around body mounts. Do they make this ? What's it called and how much of a deal to replace with those weld rivets for a body shop Thx

This ^^^^

It's works well .... little smoky at idle but it's s powerful setup

Nope .... a tps ppump conversion also switched to tps Tranny shifts like a dream ...

There's a number of different hx40 compressor and turbine variations. You need to measure the turbine compressor and get the housing side

I have 625 but they are very pricey. I don't think your power goals warrant it .... I'd stick with stock turbo 1st and control with foot. Then step up to either a super b .... or a tight 62/65/12

In and out play for thrust bearing wear is worst. Then side to side shouldn't touch housing. If you had a oil leak you'd know. Good injectors and a timing box I like better than a comp/smarty stack. If you really want to go all out do a hx35/h3bt or s472 .... twin turbo .... But yeah start out with the stock turbo and go from there. Studs required .